Rockfax Description
A magnificent bold wall-climb giving open and exposed climbing on good holds with spaced protection.
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the large flake onto the pedestal and belay, as for Curving Crack.
2) 5b, 45m. Move out right passing a narrow corner, then head up via a hard move to a small quartz ledge. Move up and left gaining a small groove and follow it for 13m past an old peg. Move right and head up with difficult to an overlap and more ageing ironmongery. Go right to gain better holds and a short groove leading to a large flake. Traditionally the belay is here, but continuing up left onto the arete makes for a better pitch and a more comfortable belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Finish easily up the arete as for Curving Crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Felix la shat 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Dad
The Grist 21/Jun/17 AltLd rpt
Dan724 19/May/17 Lead O/S

So it went like this. On Wednesday I went to the slate with Air and climbed The Mau Mau, then I very nearly flashed a bouldery 7b...I was really bloody tired but psyched. Callum, my estranged Spanish compatriot was due to meet us. We were late, he'd hurt his knee. So we never met. Air and I climbed again the next day. We were both so sleepy, I turned up at her place, we drank a lot of coffee. We had a nice day climbing E2's and chatting at Scimitar Ridge, then talked of well needed rest days. Then Callum's mate Lily messaged me. I'm so bad at saying no...I dropped Air off, dunked my head in the metaphyiscal bucket of icey water and drove flat-out to Capel Curig. Lilly was there at the side of the road and with little exchange of words we tore of towards the Snowdon Path. Lily is an ex-competition fell-runner. My lungs hurt. We arrived at the base of the routes with 2 hours of daylight. The wind blew strong and cold, the rock grippy as sandpaper. The run-outs were surreally huge, the climbing was steady but the moves were long and committing. We scrambled down with head-torches at dusk and descended into the sunset.

with Lily
Lilypopskeal 18/May/17 2nd β

AMAZING!! hard move off ledgeon second pitch for shorter climbers

with DAN
JackM92 10/May/17 AltLd O/S

Sensationally good. Possibly the best route I've ever been on. Just great moves and sequences the entire way, never especially hard but technical enough to keep it interesting.

Hidden ??/2017 -
JendeHoxar 17/Sep/16 Lead

Ground Up guide recommended belaying in the arête - got there to discover a decent ledge but couldn't find any anchors. Kept going up the arête to look for some and ended up running pitches 2 and 3 together - good job we were on 60m ropes!

with Pati
Dave Almond 15/Aug/16 AltLd

A big soggy on pitch one.

with Helen Rennard
ferdia 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Everett, Malcolm Scott
Hidden 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
ninastirrup 03/Oct/15 AltLd
harry_lewis 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S


with Nina
Louishmouis 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with finn
soph 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
morganator 03/Jul/15 AltLd
dan ely 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S

bold for e2. Im glad I didnt lead!

with dave chew
FreddieSmith 29/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Danny Grifths
amccann 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3 as one.

wi11 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Harder than I expected but never desperate. Not one to fall off...Also did P2&3 in one, much safer than the alternative options!

with Emma T
benkelsey 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

p1. Alex combined 2 and 3 into a mega sixty m pitch with a jokes twenty meter run out. fantastic climbing.

Fragmod 13/Jun/15 2nd
Alex Mason 12/Jun/15 Solo O/S

Felt pretty wild.

James Oakes 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S

There is no good belay on arete, do it in a oner from ledge.

Martin Bagshaw 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 23/May/15 AltLd dog
with Martin Bagshaw
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Lenny 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
Gudge 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P1. Leon linked P2 & P3 - great lead. Some tough moves on P2 esp. at start.

lanky 08/Sep/14 AltLd
with Crook
Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2

with Andy Wilson
Kate Edhouse 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Wonderful climb, lovely big jugs, big moves between each hold. At 5 foot 2, the move from the first belay onto the jug was fairly tricky.

with Neils PYB
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1+2 after Alex backed off the reachy move at the start of P2. Run out and fun. Arrived at the crag bathed in sunshine at 7.30am, but it was mostly gone from the Troach when we set off at 8.

with AlexD
AlexD 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Backed off start of second pitch (crux?) didn't fancy the swing onto the belay ledge if i couldn't make the reach. Led pitch 3, terrifying moment when the block i was holding halfway up with my only gear on it wobbled as I pulled up on it!

with Ed
Stig 30/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
with Chris
chrishedgehog 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1: JR, P2: CH, P3: JR. I was happy to really attack the starting moves up the quartz because the first runners were very encouraging. Lovely, open, run-out climbing. We debated if it is bold or just run-out. Not run-out on the hard bits. Thought the top pitch had a bit of an E1 4c thing going on...

Misha 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with George
GPN 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Led P2 and P3 (ran together). No gear on P3!

with Misha
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull 16/Jun/14 Lead

mega, dont bother with the belay at the end of the main pitch, do it in a oner. Belay would be uncomfortable and no gear on the 5a pitch so a fall would be straight on the belay. ropes reach too so no point. amazing route

with tom grant
DavidEvans 15/Jun/14 -

Felt like 5c move gaining the quartz ledge. Third pitch was scary.

Adam Ellwood 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ejected ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
robpartridge 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Peter Aberneathy, Graham McGrath
GraMc 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

bold and brilliant

with rob, pete abernethy
spidey 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with mat lamb
Grezza 20/Jul/13 Lead

Really great and with actually quite well protected crux on P2.

with Paul E
Mattlamb90 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1&3. Hard start on P2 and bold up to the arete on P3

with Ryan
Palindrome 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Fantastic face climbing with a surprising number of juggy holds for an E2. Lovely finish up the arĂȘte after the strenuous face.

Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/13 AltLd
Dan Mckinlay 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Strung the main and last pitches togeather. Pretty damn bold... But juggy all the way

climbingpixie 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Superb! Led pitches 2 & 3 - both bold but all the holds are there.

with Maria
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Took first pitch of curving crack, tried to practice jamming but not a chance. Good fun moving between big jugs on the rest, looked like a very bold though!

maria85 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Led first (VS jamming) pitch, seconded 2nd and 3rd pitches.

with Julie
Abi Chard 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Backed off 5b pitch - led final pitch only

with Ian
Stig 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Seconded main pitch

with Simon
Hidden 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Andrew Barker 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic second pitch. The hardest part was the starting corner of Curving Crack!

with Si
Speeddemonsi 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd pitch

Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Good. Bold but relatively easy.

with Ollie B
Mike_Hayes 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

5a top pitch. No real gear. needs a pretty solid leader.

Olli-C 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Bold start, awesome moves, there is decent gear after that, a little spaced but it allows the climbing to 'flow' which makes the route so good.

Sardien 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Amazing perfect line. Top pitch more like E3

with Noddy
Ollie B 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with D.Campbell
Rachel Slater 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 3. Lovely wall climbing.

The Grist 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
georgedunton 04/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3.

jcw ??/2013 -
DaveMo 26/May/12 AltLd dnf

Lead P1 - crack/corner. Found this difficult but I expected it. Well protected with cams. Good fun. Seconded P2 which seemed a bit beyond me - sustained , technical climbing. Well done Jan. didn't have energy left for P3 so abseiled off and went home.

with Jan
Hidden ??/2012 -
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Owain Llewelyn 12/Jul/11 Lead
with Gareth E
owain86 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

P2, great climbing! Committing start to pitch 2 and bold final pitch

with Chris
chriscarroll 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Had P1 and P3, committing long reach to start off the crux pitch..3rd is bold but fine, had a sling around a wobbly jug a few meters above the belay!

with Owain
givemetea 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

4c, 5b, 5a - led P2

dan gibson 04/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with roslyn mckendry
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
mynyddresident 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch, good moves.

with gareth
NickJH ?/Jul/11 2nd
with LiamG
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
markalmack 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
david morse 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with mark A, todd
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Wood for Trees 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

false start trying main pitch, handed ropes over to Rammo. first move turned out to be easy, the rest not so. Heroically lead the arete to the top for my pitch. . .

with Steve
Ram MkiV 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Guy
centurion05 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

great route, the thin part of the second pitch is also bold, but not too hard. the third pitch is also bold straight from the belay. Great route, not a pushover

HIGHTOWER 09/Apr/11 AltLd

Led 1st and 3rd. Weight just came onto the rope seconding crux pitch, but I did have the rucksack. 3rd pitch was my boldist lead yet. Great climbing.

PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
gforce 15/Aug/10 Lead

Committing moves at the start of P2. Thereafter pretty steady. P1 was sopping wet - made it pretty tough!

with Kath
tallsop 25/Jun/10 -
Hidden 21/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Martin Cooper 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Brilliant Led main pitch- well run out

with Nick
Marti999 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 17/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Hidden 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
lrandall 03/Jun/10 AltLd

Lead 3rd pitch only. Won the toss for the crux pitch but couldn't commit to the initial long reach. Traversed back and forth from the belay to the move atleast three time before handing the ropes over to Mat, who ofcourse lead it in great style. Pissed off that I backed off such a fantastic pitch. Will be back to lead it, but that sour taste will always be there when I see the name!

Hidden 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
dodfoster 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with sam farnsworth
phil64 ?/May/10 Lead

awesome, glad to have a grade or two in hand!?

Ed Booth 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

I led the main pitch. Brilliant pitch of climbing. Quite bold, but alot of good holds, thinlk it would be hard if E2 was your limit.

Adam Booth 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

ed lead the crux pitch. Me 1 and 3.

with ed-v12
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 Lead O/S
zukator ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
hervenuttall ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve
gregoritos ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with fox
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
ChalkBall 01/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Nicos 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with frazer
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
chris j 04/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 17/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Chad123 ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Bold but technically easy and a classic at the grade.

with Jo
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
frost ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with D Garry
WB 14/Jul/05 Lead O/S

one of the best routes i have ever done

with Jim
nicholas Barrowclough ?/May/05 Lead
with Mike Doyle
Hidden 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Fed up
Hidden 21/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1997 Lead
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood
sadams 08/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
uphillnow 29/Jun/95 AltLd

Mark led crux

with Mark Gray
D Tempest 25/Jun/95 AltLd
with Rick
Hidden 06/May/95 AltLd
Campbell42 30/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
Mike Owen 16/May/92 AltLd rpt
with Al Phizackerlea
pete johnson 28/Apr/91 2nd O/S
with Geoff Halliwell
Billg ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
Steve Crowe 06/May/90 Lead O/S

with Mike

Rich Kirby 05/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Andy Mackay
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with bernie bradbury
Hidden 18/Jun/89 AltLd
Will Webb ?/May/89 AltLd
with Mark Cole
craig d ??/1989 -
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Graham Evans
Hidden 18/Jun/88 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/88 AltLd
wynaptomos ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 14/May/88 Lead O/S
with Luke Steer
Hidden 22/Jun/86 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 15/Jun/86 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
Melok ??/1985 -
Martin Bennett 09/Jun/84 -
with JD
Lone Rider 05/May/84 AltLd
with Doug Hawthorn
Neil McA 14/Jul/83 AltLd rpt

I led the main pitch, JD the other 2.

with Johnny Dawes
Nigel Bond 10/Jul/83 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Dave Musgrove 25/Jul/82 AltLd

I think Kim led the big pitch.

with Kim Greenald
Mike Owen 03/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Bill Young, Al Simpson
Pedro50 12/Aug/81 Lead O/S
with Steve White
Neil McA 25/Aug/80 AltLd O/S
with Someone called John I met in The Pass
Nic Robinson 24/May/80 Lead O/S
with John Tout
Hidden 02/May/80 2nd
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Nic Robinson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with John Tout
Hidden 03/Jun/78 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/78 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd O/S

Hard on a cold day. Compared to other upgrades I am surprised this isn't awarded E3 now.

with Dave Greenald
Mark Kemball 14/Aug/77 AltLd
with Paul Clark
Steve Lewis 28/May/77 Lead O/S
with sharpie
petemeads ??/1976 Lead
sharpie ?/Apr/74 2nd O/S
with Phill Thomas
Frank Price ??/1974 -
mikej 13/Jun/70 AltLd dnf
with Bill Church
Seymore Butt ??/1970 AltLd
with Mick Briggs
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High E3
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Votes cast 48
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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