Rockfax Description
III, 500m. The classic of this area, Petit Viking is reliably in condition most of winter and spring every year. There's always a catch though. Recent years have seen the bergschrund widen continuously to the point that it is often not passable for long periods. If a Chamonix guide gets across it, they have been known to leave a rope in place for others to prussik up for the rest of the season. Generally it will present real difficulty even to strong teams and is often best dealt with by dry tooling up the wall to the left of it before stepping onto the snow cone above. Once across it, a superb and remote-feeling route awaits.
Approach - Follow the Glacier d'Argentière to its southeastern end. This is more or less flat until just before the routes, when it kicks up to form a short snow slope at around 25 degrees. Approach time is given from the Refuge d'Argentière - approaching from the lift in one go will add an hour.
1) Climb the snow cone and the short runnel to the foot of the icy gully.
2) The gully is 70 degrees for the first pitch but eases off for two more pitches above.
3) A pitch of 80 degree ice and mixed climbing leads to easier ground above. Most teams abseil off from here as the technical climbing is now done.
4) Follow 50 degree mixed ground for 100m to the ridgeline.
Descent - Abseil down the route although the quality of the fixed anchors can vary so take some abseil cord and an Abalakov threader. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A great goulotte climb at the end of the Argentiere glacier.

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.

Hidden 05/May/16 Lead O/S
kelly_426 ?/Apr/16 -
with Ben Clifton, LDudill
Hidden 25/Mar/16 -
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden 18/Mar/16 Lead O/S
bclifton 18/Mar/16 2nd
Mark Fairhurst 18/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

A great route, in great condition.

with Jon Holliday
Uisdean hawthorn 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic, ski out is just as good as the route

mim tiller 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jan/15 -
Andy Lagan 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/14 AltLd
Grant Fulton ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with Matt
Hidden ??/2014 -
Neil Adams 27/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Heike
Heike 27/Feb/12 AltLd
David Horwood 21/Apr/10 -
edek_w ?/Mar/08 -
mike.moss ?/Mar/08 Lead dnf

Backed off after a couple of climbing pitches due to slow going (introducing Kit to alpine routes)

nickdonohue 16/Apr/03 AltLd

nice route, easy to descend

with Mark McCarthy
crossleysm 22/May/95 AltLd
with Ric Marhcant
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