UKC

400m.

Rockfax Description
III, 500m. The classic Petit Viking is reliably in condition most winter and spring seasons. In recent years the bergschrund has widened to the point that it is often not passable for long periods. There is often a fixed rope in place for this section. Generally it will present real difficulty and is often best dealt with by dry tooling up the left wall before stepping onto the snow cone above - a superb and remote-feeling route awaits.
1) Climb mixed ground above the bergschrund for 15m (fixed ropes) to join a snow cone (60m) and the short runnel to the foot of the icy gully.
2) The gully is 70 degrees for the first pitch but eases off for two more pitches above.
3) A pitch of 80 degree ice and mixed climbing leads to easier ground above. Most teams abseil off from here as the technical climbing is now done.
4) Follow 50 degree mixed ground for 100m to the ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A great goulotte climb at the end of the Argentiere glacier.

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Winter Alps 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 22 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING! route requires 2x 60m ropes to safely descend. Im amazed none of the guidebooks specify this... we had to improvise a bit with our pair of 50s!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING! route requires 2x 60m ropes to safely descend. Im amazed none of the guidebooks specify this... we had to improvise a bit with our pair of 50s!
Tim Bevan 22 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bergschrund impassible 22/01/2020
Show beta
βeta: Bergschrund impassible 22/01/2020

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High TD
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High TD-
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High D+
Mid D+
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
DNF
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Route of Interest
Mort de Rire

Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)

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