Is now sport

First 6 sport pitches

First 6 sport pitches

Gear placement was sparse at times and then finding the abseil took a while. Make sure you go over to the East side (the other side from where you just climbed). There is a vague path with some scrambling involved, around a large boulder you will find a nice shiny new anchor. 60m half ropes will get you to the ground otherwise there is an intermediate anchor point. From then on there is about an hour's walk back to the road (try to avoid climbing through people's gardens not like us!)

Very spaced protection ,loose and fragile rock

Alt leads on the 6 sport pitches (P2, P4, P6)

The climbing is quite easy (i would say a 5a), but when we climbed the route in march, most of the wall were covered in all kinds of different vegetation. And i would definitely not rate this as a "pure" sports route, since placement of bolts are very scarce, so we ended up placing a lot of our own gear on the way up. (mostly it's difficult to spots the bolts, and even when you do, there are 8-10m between them) On the fouth pitch, my buddy had a minor incident involving bad gear placement(his bad) and a torn leg, so we decided to bail out, and go for it again next time. Also; we decided to climb on two half-ropes (2x60m), which on more that one occasion turned out to be a good idea.(during one of the descends we got kinda lost, and could have been stuck in a quite unpleasant situation if not for the extended reach of our 2 ropes)

Aimed to take the lefthand finish(according to the Karsten Oelze /Hary Roker guide) which should have meant that we'd climb 8 fully bolted sport pitches then two trad pitches with bolted belay stances. Turned out that in fact there are 6 fully bolted sport pitches, the 7th and 8th being the trad ones. I had to retreat after having done most of the 7th pitch without finding any bolts. Did find a couple of insitu abandoned nuts though. DEFINITELY a 70m rope is needed for the abseil as on the second abseil we only just reached the next belay using a 70m rope doubled up.