450m, 18 pitches. A long route on the Sperone Ost of Monte Monaco, topo available from the FA's

Titt Brothers 05/Jan/2012

Hidden 16/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 06/Nov/15 AltLd
Hidden 06/Nov/15 AltLd
whiteexplorer 22/May/15 AltLd O/S

Very spaced protection ,loose and fragile rock

with joe
SurferStan 22/May/15 AltLd O/S

Alt leads on the 6 sport pitches (P2, P4, P6)

with Dilwat
Dilwat 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
HjBuhrkall ?/Mar/15 AltLd dnf

The climbing is quite easy (i would say a 5a), but when we climbed the route in march, most of the wall were covered in all kinds of different vegetation. And i would definitely not rate this as a "pure" sports route, since placement of bolts are very scarce, so we ended up placing a lot of our own gear on the way up. (mostly it's difficult to spots the bolts, and even when you do, there are 8-10m between them) On the fouth pitch, my buddy had a minor incident involving bad gear placement(his bad) and a torn leg, so we decided to bail out, and go for it again next time. Also; we decided to climb on two half-ropes (2x60m), which on more that one occasion turned out to be a good idea.(during one of the descends we got kinda lost, and could have been stuck in a quite unpleasant situation if not for the extended reach of our 2 ropes)

Simon Alden 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Aimed to take the lefthand finish(according to the Karsten Oelze /Hary Roker guide) which should have meant that we'd climb 8 fully bolted sport pitches then two trad pitches with bolted belay stances. Turned out that in fact there are 6 fully bolted sport pitches, the 7th and 8th being the trad ones. I had to retreat after having done most of the 7th pitch without finding any bolts. Did find a couple of insitu abandoned nuts though. DEFINITELY a 70m rope is needed for the abseil as on the second abseil we only just reached the next belay using a 70m rope doubled up.

with John Codling
Hidden ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden 05/Jan/12 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
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Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
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Low 5b
High 5a
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High 4c
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Low 4c
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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