402m, 12 pitches. An excellent adventure up the full height of the wall for the summit experience. The climbing is straightforward but the bolts are well-spaced and some may find a small rack helpful. It can be climbed on twin 50m ropes or a single 80m rope and abseiled from pitch 6. Descent from above there is technically possible but would be extremely awkward and prone to epics. Start about 20m left of a distinct pillar at a waist-level bolt in the wall.
1. 4b, 28m. Climb slightly right wards on great rock and holds to a belay in a slight bay.
2. 4b, 15m. Go direct then up left to a ledge.
3. 4a, 35m. Easy ground leads up right past some spaced bolts to a ledge. Continue to another ledge a little higher and belay.
4. 5c, 25m. Move up and left then make tricky move left (bold to second). Continue up leftwards to a belay in a corner.
5. 5a, 40m. Climb a groove and rib then up right to a big open corner. Move up the left wall to a great belay in a small cave.
6. 4b, 40m. Make a delightful traverse left on a rounded ledge to a gully. Easy and more broken rock leads upwards to a spacious ledge.
Descent from here - Make 3x40m abseils initially down pitches 6 and 5 then direct down to a ledge area where you can scramble off right wards (looking out) and walk back round to the foot of the climb.
7. 4c, 45m. A scrappy connecting pitch to the central pillar. Follow threads and bolts up rightwards past one possible belay, to a ledge. Make a steep pull up from the ledge to a gully which leads to the summit of the central pillar and junction with Sogni d’oro. There is a single ring belay a little higher.
8. 4a, 45m. Climb up to another belay then pull up right and follow the left side of the rib on sharp rock.
9. 5a, 30m. Pull right to a steep section on the nose of the rib and climb this on razor holds to a bulge. Make an thrutchy pull round this to a belay.
10. 4b, 38m. Move left then follow easy ground past a mix of fixed gear.
11. 4c, 35m. Go up leftwards to follow a couple of grooves.
12. 4b, 40m. Move up to easy ground then a steeper rib which leads to a big ledge and the last belay.
Descent - Walk easily up to the summit plateau. Head rightwards for the full summit tick by the cross and a great view of San Vito. The track leads easily back down from here to the road keeping left at any junction.

Scott Titt, Jim Titt (bolting on lead to pitch 6) 05/Jan/2012

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 5 Dec Show βeta
βeta: Full description above for fully bolted version which now goes all the way to the summit. Comments below about needing 55m twin ropes for abseil are not correct, it can be done with 3x40m abseils from the top of pitch 6. Descent from above pitch 6 is likely to result in an epic due to the line, sharp rock and loose rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Full description above for fully bolted version which now goes all the way to the summit. Comments below about needing 55m twin ropes for abseil are not correct, it can be done with 3x40m abseils from the top of pitch 6. Descent from above pitch 6 is likely to result in an epic due to the line, sharp rock and loose rock.
Martin Bennett 22 May Show βeta
βeta: Since several lines begin near it it's perhaps worth pointing out that the correct start is exactly where you arrive at the cliff base if you've found and followed the cairns through shrubs, broken walls and bits if scree. It's well left of a 50m pillar leaning against the face, just left of a line of threads and bolts, and has a ground anchor bolt at 3 feet off the deck.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Since several lines begin near it it's perhaps worth pointing out that the correct start is exactly where you arrive at the cliff base if you've found and followed the cairns through shrubs, broken walls and bits if scree. It's well left of a 50m pillar leaning against the face, just left of a line of threads and bolts, and has a ground anchor bolt at 3 feet off the deck.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Alan James - UKC and UKH 2 Dec AltLd
with Nigel Boothroyd
with Nigel Boothroyd
AK 11 Oct AltLd
with T-Dog
with T-Dog
T-Dog 11 Oct AltLd O/S Did only the first 6 (8?) pitches. Started at 13, arrived at the top at 16:30. The descent turned into an epic. Back on the ground at 22:00. Led pitch 1+2, 4 and 6.
with Sam, AK, AndyMitchell
Did only the first 6 (8?) pitches. Started at 13, arrived at the top at 16:30. The descent turned into an epic. Back on the ground at 22:00. Led pitch 1+2, 4 and 6.
with Sam, AK, AndyMitchell
Martin Bennett 20 May - Having spent 30 mins deciding which start and another hour climbing and abseiling off the wrong one, then another 30 mins deciding the correct one our chances of climbing the 8 bolted pitches were slim from the start. After 3 very pleasant pitches of 4c to 5a I set off on the supposedly 4c+ 4th pitch traverse perhaps showing it too little respect. The resultant careless slip caused a bit of a plummet and three copiously bleeding fingertips. I climbed back up to and finished the traverse pitch leaving blood on all the holds for my second and we abbed off to tend my wounds with elastoplast and my mood with beer.
Having spent 30 mins deciding which start and another hour climbing and abseiling off the wrong one, then another 30 mins deciding the correct one our chances of climbing the 8 bolted pitches were slim from the start. After 3 very pleasant pitches of 4c to 5a I set off on the supposedly 4c+ 4th pitch traverse perhaps showing it too little respect. The resultant careless slip caused a bit of a plummet and three copiously bleeding fingertips. I climbed back up to and finished the traverse pitch leaving blood on all the holds for my second and we abbed off to tend my wounds with elastoplast and my mood with beer.
Dave Cundy 20 May AltLd dnf Spent an hour climbing the wrong line, on a pillar at the base of the East Spur. The correct start is 20 m to the left of the pillar. Tried again and reached the end of the traverse before abbing off for a beer. Consensus was 4c for the first two pitches, third pitch was easier but 5b for the traverse (4c+??). Lovely route to that point. Worth 2 stars.
Spent an hour climbing the wrong line, on a pillar at the base of the East Spur. The correct start is 20 m to the left of the pillar. Tried again and reached the end of the traverse before abbing off for a beer. Consensus was 4c for the first two pitches, third pitch was easier but 5b for the traverse (4c+??). Lovely route to that point. Worth 2 stars.
Hidden 11 Apr AltLd β
GOS 11 Apr AltLd O/S Led p2 4 6. P4 traverse the crux. Cave belay p5 cramped. 3 abseil down from p6 ledge..Can go direct from p4 top ledge to lower ledge then scramble to ground
Led p2 4 6. P4 traverse the crux. Cave belay p5 cramped. 3 abseil down from p6 ledge..Can go direct from p4 top ledge to lower ledge then scramble to ground
Francesco Di Lallo 25 Mar AltLd O/S Lost count of the sport pitches and ended up making our own way up to the peak on gear
Lost count of the sport pitches and ended up making our own way up to the peak on gear
Hidden 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
crag_hopper_Jay 15 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
danbirkby 17 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S We did the 6 bolted pitches, had lunch on a spacious ledge and then abseiled the three pitches back down. A lovely day out. I think the traverse pitch was the crux which was airy and delicate. A nice alternative to the sport routes.
with RichardA
We did the 6 bolted pitches, had lunch on a spacious ledge and then abseiled the three pitches back down. A lovely day out. I think the traverse pitch was the crux which was airy and delicate. A nice alternative to the sport routes.
with RichardA
Colin Knowles 11 Apr, 2018 AltLd A truly lovely mountain expedition. The rock is almost all wonderfully sound; the plants are mostly a delight and apart from one small tree do not impinge on the climbing. The bolts may be well spaced but there is little need for trad gear - I think we placed four runners over the six pitches. We descended by three abseils - the first down into the cave needs care as the cave belay is overhung and cramped. Overall an excellent way to have an adventure whilst resting from the intensity of single pitch climbing at San Vito.
A truly lovely mountain expedition. The rock is almost all wonderfully sound; the plants are mostly a delight and apart from one small tree do not impinge on the climbing. The bolts may be well spaced but there is little need for trad gear - I think we placed four runners over the six pitches. We descended by three abseils - the first down into the cave needs care as the cave belay is overhung and cramped. Overall an excellent way to have an adventure whilst resting from the intensity of single pitch climbing at San Vito.
evhall 11 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S p1,3,5 great fun - starts near the evergreen oak. 6 pitches bolted - ends at a spacious 'lunchtime ledge' - you'll need 2x60m ropes for abseil.
p1,3,5 great fun - starts near the evergreen oak. 6 pitches bolted - ends at a spacious 'lunchtime ledge' - you'll need 2x60m ropes for abseil.
olliemartin 27 Mar, 2018 Lead Had a quite considerably long day on this. 4c traverse pitch was the hardest on the whole thing, run out in places but in all a nice route. Coming down from top abseil our rope got stuck when we tried to pull it down. Fortunately had enough left over rope on 70m twins to lead up to a position where we could pull the rope, abseiled in the dark. Doing it with head lamps made things slower. Should have abbed down left!
Had a quite considerably long day on this. 4c traverse pitch was the hardest on the whole thing, run out in places but in all a nice route. Coming down from top abseil our rope got stuck when we tried to pull it down. Fortunately had enough left over rope on 70m twins to lead up to a position where we could pull the rope, abseiled in the dark. Doing it with head lamps made things slower. Should have abbed down left!
rd20 2 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S First six bolted pitches only. RD odd pitches. Dom's first multi pitch. Five abseil descent.
with Dom
First six bolted pitches only. RD odd pitches. Dom's first multi pitch. Five abseil descent.
with Dom
Cillian 21 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S First 5 pitches climbing as a 3 -lead 1 and 4
First 5 pitches climbing as a 3 -lead 1 and 4
Hidden 6 Apr, 2017 AltLd
Roland stopps 6 Apr, 2017 - Is now sport
Is now sport
Kevin Cass 6 Apr, 2017 AltLd First 6 sport pitches
with Nevil
First 6 sport pitches
with Nevil
philluu 31 Mar, 2017 AltLd First 6 sport pitches
First 6 sport pitches
ChloeJ ?Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Gear placement was sparse at times and then finding the abseil took a while. Make sure you go over to the East side (the other side from where you just climbed). There is a vague path with some scrambling involved, around a large boulder you will find a nice shiny new anchor. 60m half ropes will get you to the ground otherwise there is an intermediate anchor point. From then on there is about an hour's walk back to the road (try to avoid climbing through people's gardens not like us!)
Gear placement was sparse at times and then finding the abseil took a while. Make sure you go over to the East side (the other side from where you just climbed). There is a vague path with some scrambling involved, around a large boulder you will find a nice shiny new anchor. 60m half ropes will get you to the ground otherwise there is an intermediate anchor point. From then on there is about an hour's walk back to the road (try to avoid climbing through people's gardens not like us!)
Hidden 16 Feb, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 6 Nov, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 6 Nov, 2015 AltLd
whiteexplorer 22 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Very spaced protection ,loose and fragile rock
Very spaced protection ,loose and fragile rock
SurferStan 22 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Alt leads on the 6 sport pitches (P2, P4, P6)
with Dilwat
Alt leads on the 6 sport pitches (P2, P4, P6)
with Dilwat
Dilwat 21 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
HjBuhrkall ?Mar, 2015 AltLd dnf The climbing is quite easy (i would say a 5a), but when we climbed the route in march, most of the wall were covered in all kinds of different vegetation. And i would definitely not rate this as a "pure" sports route, since placement of bolts are very scarce, so we ended up placing a lot of our own gear on the way up. (mostly it's difficult to spots the bolts, and even when you do, there are 8-10m between them) On the fouth pitch, my buddy had a minor incident involving bad gear placement(his bad) and a torn leg, so we decided to bail out, and go for it again next time. Also; we decided to climb on two half-ropes (2x60m), which on more that one occasion turned out to be a good idea.(during one of the descends we got kinda lost, and could have been stuck in a quite unpleasant situation if not for the extended reach of our 2 ropes)
The climbing is quite easy (i would say a 5a), but when we climbed the route in march, most of the wall were covered in all kinds of different vegetation. And i would definitely not rate this as a "pure" sports route, since placement of bolts are very scarce, so we ended up placing a lot of our own gear on the way up. (mostly it's difficult to spots the bolts, and even when you do, there are 8-10m between them) On the fouth pitch, my buddy had a minor incident involving bad gear placement(his bad) and a torn leg, so we decided to bail out, and go for it again next time. Also; we decided to climb on two half-ropes (2x60m), which on more that one occasion turned out to be a good idea.(during one of the descends we got kinda lost, and could have been stuck in a quite unpleasant situation if not for the extended reach of our 2 ropes)
Simon Alden 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S Aimed to take the lefthand finish(according to the Karsten Oelze /Hary Roker guide) which should have meant that we'd climb 8 fully bolted sport pitches then two trad pitches with bolted belay stances. Turned out that in fact there are 6 fully bolted sport pitches, the 7th and 8th being the trad ones. I had to retreat after having done most of the 7th pitch without finding any bolts. Did find a couple of insitu abandoned nuts though. DEFINITELY a 70m rope is needed for the abseil as on the second abseil we only just reached the next belay using a 70m rope doubled up.
with John Codling
Aimed to take the lefthand finish(according to the Karsten Oelze /Hary Roker guide) which should have meant that we'd climb 8 fully bolted sport pitches then two trad pitches with bolted belay stances. Turned out that in fact there are 6 fully bolted sport pitches, the 7th and 8th being the trad ones. I had to retreat after having done most of the 7th pitch without finding any bolts. Did find a couple of insitu abandoned nuts though. DEFINITELY a 70m rope is needed for the abseil as on the second abseil we only just reached the next belay using a 70m rope doubled up.
with John Codling
Hidden ?Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
papashango ??, 2013 AltLd dnf got to top of the 8 sport pitches inadvertently by starting on an adjacent route... the pitch numbers didn't add up, confused we just abbed off to the ground from top of P8.
got to top of the 8 sport pitches inadvertently by starting on an adjacent route... the pitch numbers didn't add up, confused we just abbed off to the ground from top of P8.
scott titt 5 Jan, 2012 -
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
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