Rockfax Description
A bit harder than its left-hand companion, it features a superb, bold and exposed traverse across the face.
1) 4c, 15m. As for Left Edge.
2) 5a, 30m. A committing move gains the gently-rising traverse line which leads delicately rightwards for about 10m. A further heart-in-mouth move gains another slightly higher traverse in a similar vein. A final move up gains a stance just left of the corner.
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and right into the corner of The Black Cleft then pull up left and around the overhang above to a belay.
4) 40m. The slabby gully leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Alistair Corbett 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Dom
with Dom
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Boy 8 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Jon Coe
with Jon Coe
Flavio 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dave Almond 29 May, 2018 AltLd rpt Great as a contrast to The Corner.
with John Seeley
Great as a contrast to The Corner.
with John Seeley
John sealey 29 May, 2018 AltLd
with Dave Almond
with Dave Almond
Al Evans ??, 2018 Lead
with Dave Parker
with Dave Parker
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
UncleMephisto 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd dnf Abbed off after traverse pitch due to nightfall. Traverse is bold!
with Kin Choi
Abbed off after traverse pitch due to nightfall. Traverse is bold!
with Kin Choi
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Andrew Wilson 10 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Wet on Andy's P2...
with Andy Wilson
Wet on Andy's P2...
with Andy Wilson
wi11 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S P1&2 in one. Steady climbing but bold
P1&2 in one. Steady climbing but bold
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Bob ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 Lead
with Bill Preston
with Bill Preston
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Si ??, 2014 -
Dave Almond 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Nicole Almond 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd Good traverse with nice moves. Good for gear placement practise on the top pitch.
Good traverse with nice moves. Good for gear placement practise on the top pitch.
Diggler 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with andyob
with andyob
Julesthe1st 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Mike Peak
with Mike Peak
andyob 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Great climb, takes less gear than I thought it would, very grassy at the end of second pitch and belay placement are few, and lots of loose rocks around.
with Diggler
Great climb, takes less gear than I thought it would, very grassy at the end of second pitch and belay placement are few, and lots of loose rocks around.
with Diggler
dan gibson 19 Jul, 2013 Solo O/S
alasdair19 ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
jcw ??, 2013 -
Alex Mason 11 Jul, 2011 Solo O/S Reached a wet section on the traverse pitch a few metres from belay, scary.
Reached a wet section on the traverse pitch a few metres from belay, scary.
Hidden 28 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
dan ely 21 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
tim newton 21 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Owain Llewelyn 3 Sep, 2010 Lead Climbing straightforward but you don't want to fall off!
with Dad
Climbing straightforward but you don't want to fall off!
with Dad
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
barni 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Comrad, Luke Brooks
with Comrad, Luke Brooks
Luke Brooks 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with Konrad Doyle, barni
with Konrad Doyle, barni
Duncan Campbell 26 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Bubbles got crux pitch :( I got cold belaying him then he got cold...no more outes done after :( cool route though!
Bubbles got crux pitch :( I got cold belaying him then he got cold...no more outes done after :( cool route though!
Hidden 23 May, 2010 2nd O/S
tomhull 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S scary traverse and lots of loose on the steep second pitch, great climb
with matt harris
scary traverse and lots of loose on the steep second pitch, great climb
with matt harris
reg_measures ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with timmy elson
with timmy elson
Hidden ?May, 2009 AltLd
Joe Dove 29 May, 2008 Lead L pitch 1 & 3
with kev
L pitch 1 & 3
with kev
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
chris j 4 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Ben Bradford
with Ben Bradford
Andy Clarke 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Led P2&4. John did the Moscow Variation for P3. Afterwards, walking back down the Eastern Terrace, we both detected a strong smell of pipe tobacco... but no one else was around. Longland's ghost?
with Johnny
Led P2&4. John did the Moscow Variation for P3. Afterwards, walking back down the Eastern Terrace, we both detected a strong smell of pipe tobacco... but no one else was around. Longland's ghost?
with Johnny
frost ?Aug, 2005 AltLd
with D Garry
with D Garry
mike lawrence? 1 Jul, 2005 -
with Alex B
with Alex B
BenTiffin ?May, 2005 AltLd
with Andy Bissell
with Andy Bissell
pauldrew ??, 2002 Lead Early 2000's
Early 2000's
Hidden ?Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths ??, 2000 Lead
with James Hubbard
with James Hubbard
zero six ??, 1998 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 25 Sep, 1997 AltLd rpt led 1st pitch
with richard parry
led 1st pitch
with richard parry
rob.grafton ??, 1997 Lead
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood
biggianthead 14 Sep, 1996 -
with C
with C
Hidden ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
Duncan I ?Jul, 1996 -
with Myles Jordan
with Myles Jordan
uphillnow 29 Jun, 1995 Lead
roncaves 25 Jun, 1995 AltLd
with James Thomas
with James Thomas
Hidden 25 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
PeteCheung ?Aug, 1991 AltLd
with Bill
with Bill
Neil McA 25 Jul, 1990 Solo O/S Felt great, nice a fluid, tricky bulge at the end of the traverse was a bit of a wake up though. Great swimming in the Llyn afterwards and a run down for last orders - top evening.
Felt great, nice a fluid, tricky bulge at the end of the traverse was a bit of a wake up though. Great swimming in the Llyn afterwards and a run down for last orders - top evening.
Hidden ??, 1990 2nd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jun, 1989 Lead O/S
with Jean Williamson
with Jean Williamson
Hidden 27 May, 1989 AltLd
steveb2006 19 Jun, 1988 AltLd Dave leads forst pitch
with Dave O'Dowd
Dave leads forst pitch
with Dave O'Dowd
michael burrows 23 Jun, 1987 AltLd O/S
with karl harrison
with karl harrison
Melok ??, 1985 -
charlesmfrench 14 Aug, 1983 AltLd O/S
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Ian Jones ??, 1979 AltLd O/S Massively over-hyped.
with Little Pete from Aber Uni.
Massively over-hyped.
with Little Pete from Aber Uni.
granitbahn ??, 1978 AltLd
Martin Bennett 4 Jul, 1977 -
with JD
with JD
mikej 14 Aug, 1976 Lead
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Phil Davidson 7 Aug, 1976 Lead O/S
with Hugh Banner
with Hugh Banner
Mark Kemball 10 Jul, 1976 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Bolt Phobia ?Apr, 1976 2nd dnf
with Martyn Hurn
with Martyn Hurn
paul59 5 Jul, 1975 2nd dnf
with Geoff Read
with Geoff Read
Hidden 4 Aug, 1974 Lead
Rick51 29 Mar, 1974 AltLd
Frank Price ??, 1974 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1970 AltLd
with Keith Roberts
with Keith Roberts
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set