Rockfax Description
The best of the bunch takes a direct line up the Boulder. Often considered an E4 climber's Indian Face, the route features thin and technical climbing with spaced protection. A good rack of micro wires will be of use. Start towards the bottom of the ramp, just left of a groove that heads up the lowest right-hand part of the Boulder.
1) 5c, 40m. Traverse right across grassy ledges to reach a corner. Climb this to a hollow spike. From this go up and right and then back left to beneath an overhang. Traverse left under this and climb through it on its left side. Above continue left and then back right to reach a worrying flake, stuff this with small cams, before heading up and slightly leftwards to reach The Boulder traverse line with relief, climb up a few feet to a good nut belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Another bold pitch. Climb direct to a shallow groove. This gives some tricky moves before easier ground leads to the top. Belay well back with care. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Cloggy soul searching routes, Ingle Routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

phil64 ??/2015 -
tim newton 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the boldest, seconded the direct finish. Expected to find it easier after great wall and the axe feeling more like E2/3, but I found it pretty challenging, mentally anyway.

Rachel Slater 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, direct finish.

Paul Clarke ??/2014 AltLd
with Barry
Lenny 10/Jul/13 2nd
with Steve
dan gibson 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
markalmack 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

with direct finish which is more run out than the boldest. scary

lukehunt 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Ripley
Pete Graham ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lawledge
Howard Lawledge ?/May/12 AltLd

Went too far right at the top as well. The line in the ground up guide is wrong and the description doesn't make up for it. Good scary ish 6a moves as a reward for going wrong though!

with Pete Graham
Andy Edgar ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

George led first pitch but trended too far right above overlaps making it feel like scary E5 6a, and belaying in the wrong place (end of the boulder traverse). Finished up The Boulder in one 60m pitch.

with George Ullrich
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 AltLd
with Dan McManus
datoon 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Did direct finish which is very thin, but not too bad climbing!!!

with RT
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 10/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
Hidden ??/2006 -
pauldrew 26/Jun/05 2nd
pete johnson 26/Jun/05 Lead rpt
Steve Crowe 14/Jul/02 2nd O/S
with KM
D Tempest ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Chris, Rick
Hidden 12/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/99 2nd
phardman ??/1997 -
jfletcher 18/Aug/96 AltLd O/S

Followed first pitch and led Cliff's Direct Finish

with Graham Baxter
Hidden 21/Jul/96 Lead O/S
sadams 08/Jun/96 AltLd

heart stopping

with John Boyle
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
michael burrows 25/Jun/95 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch

with steve ward
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
duncan ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Alison Cowley, Dan Donovan
PaulTanton ?/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Smokin Dick
Mike Owen 16/May/92 Lead rpt
with Al Phizackerlea
mark-abz 28/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Bob 29/Jul/91 Lead O/S

Slightly worrying as I had taken a 20m fall off The Boulderer a few weeks earlier.

with Tom Leppart
Billg ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
pete johnson 28/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Geoff Halliwell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with Steven Murphy
Rich Kirby 05/May/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Dave Rumney ??/1990 -
keefe ??/1990 -
andybirtwistle 22/Jul/89 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
Eduardo Martinez 16/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/88 AltLd
wynaptomos ?/May/88 2nd O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Melok ??/1985 -
Dave Turnbull 19/May/84 Lead O/S

Brilliant 1st visit to Cloggy

with Martin?
charlesmfrench 14/Aug/83 Lead O/S

Did the direct finish too.

with Nick
Nigel Bond 07/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Leverton
Mark Kemball 15/Jul/83 AltLd

direct finish

with Dave Abbey
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead β

E4? It used to be E2!

with Tom Jones
Mike Owen 03/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Bill Young
jon 15/May/82 Lead
with Elaine
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1977 2nd
sharpie ?/Aug/76 Lead O/S
with Phill Thomas
petemeads ?/Jul/76 Lead O/S

The infamous bolt had been removed some time before - modern gear was quite sufficient though I took some time over the crux moves. The photos Steve took were nearly destroyed by cack-handed opening of the camera (Mick Brady, take a bow) but might be rescued by modern technology. P.S. Yes, but only if we go to black & white.

with Steve Taylor
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set