Rockfax Description
The best of the bunch takes a direct line up the Boulder. Often considered an E4 climber's Indian Face, the route features thin and technical climbing with spaced protection. A good rack of micro wires will be of use. Start towards the bottom of the ramp, just left of a groove that heads up the lowest right-hand part of the Boulder.
1) 5c, 40m. Traverse right across grassy ledges to reach a corner. Climb this to a hollow spike. From this go up and right and then back left to beneath an overhang. Traverse left under this and climb through it on its left side. Above continue left and then back right to reach a worrying flake, stuff this with small cams, before heading up and slightly leftwards to reach The Boulder traverse line with relief, climb up a few feet to a good nut belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Another bold pitch. Climb direct to a shallow groove. This gives some tricky moves before easier ground leads to the top. Belay well back with care. © Rockfax

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Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Cloggy soul searching routes, Ingle Routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
themattyshep 20 Apr Lead O/S Hardly any hear after the initial corner, no chalk at all and snappy rock early In the season. P1 only.
with Seb D
Hardly any hear after the initial corner, no chalk at all and snappy rock early In the season. P1 only.
with Seb D
mrblack ?? -
Boy 8 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Jon Coe
with Jon Coe
JendeHoxar 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S A good route. ;)
A good route. ;)
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Misha 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Not as bold as the guide book suggests - Dixon really hams it up! Up to the overlap it’s about E1 on good though slightly spaced gear. After that there’s gear but the rock is a bit suspect. Small brass offsets highly advisable. The moves are all pretty steady 5a and 5b. Didn’t find the crux move much harder than the rest. It’s slab that so you can stand around forever, mostly trying and failing to fiddle gear in! I had a cluster at the depression (small ledge), then a micro behind the dodgy flake (takes an upside down purple cam as well but not advisable given it’s a bit creaky), then another brassy higher up and another brassy after the crux. There was chalk to follow, which made it less adventurous. The belay is good. Eszter did the top pitch, which is no pushover. Starts off ok though bold, then some tricky moves, possibly harder than on the first pitch, above a ‘good enoigh’ cluster. The hard bit is not as long as on the first pitch but it’s not to be underestimated. Great route for a bit of an adventure.
with eszter
Not as bold as the guide book suggests - Dixon really hams it up! Up to the overlap it’s about E1 on good though slightly spaced gear. After that there’s gear but the rock is a bit suspect. Small brass offsets highly advisable. The moves are all pretty steady 5a and 5b. Didn’t find the crux move much harder than the rest. It’s slab that so you can stand around forever, mostly trying and failing to fiddle gear in! I had a cluster at the depression (small ledge), then a micro behind the dodgy flake (takes an upside down purple cam as well but not advisable given it’s a bit creaky), then another brassy higher up and another brassy after the crux. There was chalk to follow, which made it less adventurous. The belay is good. Eszter did the top pitch, which is no pushover. Starts off ok though bold, then some tricky moves, possibly harder than on the first pitch, above a ‘good enoigh’ cluster. The hard bit is not as long as on the first pitch but it’s not to be underestimated. Great route for a bit of an adventure.
with eszter
Luke Brooks 29 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 29 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt
with Luke Brooks
with Luke Brooks
Hidden 15 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 15 May, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Al Evans ??, 2018 2nd
with Jim Moran
with Jim Moran
phil64 ??, 2015 -
tim newton 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the boldest, seconded the direct finish. Expected to find it easier after great wall and the axe feeling more like E2/3, but I found it pretty challenging, mentally anyway.
Lead the boldest, seconded the direct finish. Expected to find it easier after great wall and the axe feeling more like E2/3, but I found it pretty challenging, mentally anyway.
Rachel Slater 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2, direct finish.
Lead pitch 2, direct finish.
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd
Lenny 10 Jul, 2013 2nd
with Steve
with Steve
dan gibson 18 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 18 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
markalmack 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S with direct finish which is more run out than the boldest. scary
with ctodd
with direct finish which is more run out than the boldest. scary
with ctodd
lukehunt 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Tom Ripley
with Tom Ripley
Pete Graham ?May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lawledge
with Howard Lawledge
Ledgelaw ?May, 2012 AltLd Went too far right at the top as well. The line in the ground up guide is wrong and the description doesn't make up for it. Good scary ish 6a moves as a reward for going wrong though!
with Pete Graham
Went too far right at the top as well. The line in the ground up guide is wrong and the description doesn't make up for it. Good scary ish 6a moves as a reward for going wrong though!
with Pete Graham
Andy Edgar ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S George led first pitch but trended too far right above overlaps making it feel like scary E5 6a, and belaying in the wrong place (end of the boulder traverse). Finished up The Boulder in one 60m pitch.
with George Ullrich
George led first pitch but trended too far right above overlaps making it feel like scary E5 6a, and belaying in the wrong place (end of the boulder traverse). Finished up The Boulder in one 60m pitch.
with George Ullrich
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2009 AltLd
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
datoon 14 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Did direct finish which is very thin, but not too bad climbing!!!
with RT
Did direct finish which is very thin, but not too bad climbing!!!
with RT
Tom Briggs 10 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
Hidden ??, 2006 -
pauldrew 26 Jun, 2005 2nd
pete johnson 26 Jun, 2005 Lead rpt
MikePycroft ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Chris P
with Chris P
Steve Crowe 14 Jul, 2002 2nd O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden 12 Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 1999 2nd
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
phardman ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 18 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S Followed first pitch and led Cliff's Direct Finish
Followed first pitch and led Cliff's Direct Finish
Hidden 21 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
sadams 8 Jun, 1996 AltLd heart stopping
with John Boyle
heart stopping
with John Boyle
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 1 Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
Hidden 29 Jun, 1995 2nd
michael burrows 25 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S lead 1st pitch
with steve ward
lead 1st pitch
with steve ward
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
duncan ?Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
with AlisonC, Dan Donovan
with AlisonC, Dan Donovan
Hidden ?Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 16 May, 1992 Lead rpt
with Al Phizackerlea
with Al Phizackerlea
gordon_lamb ??, 1992 -
mark-abz 28 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
with Andy W
with Andy W
Bob 29 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S Slightly worrying as I had taken a 20m fall off The Boulderer a few weeks earlier.
with Tom Leppart
Slightly worrying as I had taken a 20m fall off The Boulderer a few weeks earlier.
with Tom Leppart
Billg ?Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
with Jon Barton
pete johnson 28 Apr, 1991 Lead O/S
with Geoff Halliwell
with Geoff Halliwell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
with Steven Murphy
with Steven Murphy
Hidden 5 May, 1990 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Dave Rumney ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
keefe ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
andybirtwistle 22 Jul, 1989 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
Eduardo Martinez 16 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
steveb2006 18 Jun, 1989 Lead A great climb but theres an accident and helicopter rescue on West Buttress. Found out later accident on Sheaf and a climber had died in a rockfall. Think Chris decides my keenness for getting in routes isnt really his thing! - our last route together!.
with Chris Grafton
A great climb but theres an accident and helicopter rescue on West Buttress. Found out later accident on Sheaf and a climber had died in a rockfall. Think Chris decides my keenness for getting in routes isnt really his thing! - our last route together!.
with Chris Grafton
D Tempest ??, 1989 AltLd O/S
with Chris, Rick
with Chris, Rick
Hidden 18 Jun, 1988 AltLd
wynaptomos ?May, 1988 2nd O/S
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Rick51 3 Jun, 1985 Lead
Melok ??, 1985 -
Dave Turnbull 19 May, 1984 Lead O/S Brilliant 1st visit to Cloggy
with Martin?
Brilliant 1st visit to Cloggy
with Martin?
Steve Clegg ??, 1984 Lead The year's a guess
with Bob W
The year's a guess
with Bob W
charlesmfrench 14 Aug, 1983 Lead O/S Did the direct finish too.
with Nick
Did the direct finish too.
with Nick
Nigel Bond 7 Aug, 1983 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
Mark Kemball 15 Jul, 1983 AltLd direct finish
with Dave Abbey
direct finish
with Dave Abbey
Ian Jones ??, 1983 Lead β E4? It used to be E2!
with Tom Jones
E4? It used to be E2!
with Tom Jones
Mike Owen 3 Jun, 1982 Lead O/S
with Bill Young
with Bill Young
Hidden 15 May, 1982 Lead
Neil McA 25 Aug, 1980 AltLd O/S 17 years old, my first route on Cloggy. Quite an introduction! It got E2 in the guide at the time. I only led the easier second pitch
with Someone called John I met in The Pass
17 years old, my first route on Cloggy. Quite an introduction! It got E2 in the guide at the time. I only led the easier second pitch
with Someone called John I met in The Pass
andy gittins ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
cenotaphcorner 28 May, 1978 2nd O/S First pitch only.
with Paul Ingham
First pitch only.
with Paul Ingham
Hidden ??, 1977 2nd
Phil Davidson 7 Aug, 1976 Lead O/S
with Hugh Banner
with Hugh Banner
sharpie ?Aug, 1976 Lead O/S
with Phill Thomas
with Phill Thomas
petemeads ?Jul, 1976 Lead O/S The infamous bolt had been removed some time before - modern gear was quite sufficient though I took some time over the crux moves. The photos Steve took were nearly destroyed by cack-handed opening of the camera (Mick Brady, take a bow) but might be rescued by modern technology. P.S. Yes, but only if we go to black & white.
with Steve Taylor
The infamous bolt had been removed some time before - modern gear was quite sufficient though I took some time over the crux moves. The photos Steve took were nearly destroyed by cack-handed opening of the camera (Mick Brady, take a bow) but might be rescued by modern technology. P.S. Yes, but only if we go to black & white.
with Steve Taylor
Steve Clegg 17 Apr, 1976 2nd First pitch only - then a terrifying ab off a peg and crappy piece of tat!
with Pete W
First pitch only - then a terrifying ab off a peg and crappy piece of tat!
with Pete W
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set