Rockfax Description
The best line on the buttress, run-out in places.
1) 4b, 20m. Start at the toe of the buttress, climb up and right past a short corner, and onto slabs above. Continue to a grass ledge.
2) 15m. Move up and right to the main slab.
3) 20m - ish. Follow this past several ledges and belay where convenient.
4) 20m - ish. A similar pitch taking the line of best rock.
5) 15m. Continue to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate HS ticklist, The Long Routes, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
jenxmax 14 Sep AltLd O/S A guaranteed adventure. Who doesn't love poking in micro wires on a mild grade then climbing 15 metres above it. Ignorance preferred to the profound knowledge that your belayer will be departing their token stance and joining you, should your toes not be fully chalked up. Pre-requisite: experience of ascending stubby, shallow, muddy, mobile, wet and lichenuous holds will prove useful. Ability to secrete glue desirable. A hearty lesson for all on which local flora will take a tug. Scenic vistas of warm sun on the entirety of Snowdonia except yourself. The memory of Slab Climb Right Hand will last as long as the mud, which held the crag together, to remove from your fingernails. High end HS low end E1. Startlingly Hard In Technique. A Lantern Fish to lure unsuspecting prey to a reputable mountain crag. Three types of fun for those who did not heed the warnings. Type 1: Worth the four hour round trip. Type 2: Squeaking and squelching up this route solidifies an understanding as to why people pay to go indoor bouldering. Type 3: Fully committing to the first religion which springs to mind and leaving your fate into a higher being's will. Escape right as a descent if hanging green death is the last tick on your Bucket list.
with Gaz J
A guaranteed adventure. Who doesn't love poking in micro wires on a mild grade then climbing 15 metres above it. Ignorance preferred to the profound knowledge that your belayer will be departing their token stance and joining you, should your toes not be fully chalked up. Pre-requisite: experience of ascending stubby, shallow, muddy, mobile, wet and lichenuous holds will prove useful. Ability to secrete glue desirable. A hearty lesson for all on which local flora will take a tug. Scenic vistas of warm sun on the entirety of Snowdonia except yourself. The memory of Slab Climb Right Hand will last as long as the mud, which held the crag together, to remove from your fingernails. High end HS low end E1. Startlingly Hard In Technique. A Lantern Fish to lure unsuspecting prey to a reputable mountain crag. Three types of fun for those who did not heed the warnings. Type 1: Worth the four hour round trip. Type 2: Squeaking and squelching up this route solidifies an understanding as to why people pay to go indoor bouldering. Type 3: Fully committing to the first religion which springs to mind and leaving your fate into a higher being's will. Escape right as a descent if hanging green death is the last tick on your Bucket list.
with Gaz J
brockley_buzz 29 Jul 2nd O/S My first climbing trip outside of a course or the Pinnacle Club. Felt more independent although Cloggy was a bit daunting! We went in the morning and it was still wet from seepage. Would love to return on a drier afternoon/evening, with more time as well.
with Rebecca
My first climbing trip outside of a course or the Pinnacle Club. Felt more independent although Cloggy was a bit daunting! We went in the morning and it was still wet from seepage. Would love to return on a drier afternoon/evening, with more time as well.
with Rebecca
Lenny 2 Jul AltLd O/S
with Chris (A)
with Chris (A)
Jules Lane 29 Jun AltLd O/S Good fun but after P1 it's very easy but almost no protection.
Good fun but after P1 it's very easy but almost no protection.
yossarian714 29 Jun AltLd O/S Led P1 & 3 of 3
Led P1 & 3 of 3
rowland penty 24 May AltLd Almost no gear from second pitch onwards really
with Monty
Almost no gear from second pitch onwards really
with Monty
tsl42 21 Apr AltLd O/S Led p1 and p3.
with Andy
Led p1 and p3.
with Andy
neal 1 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S In the rain. P3 felt quite tricky and bold in the conditions. With TC, SR, BM. Led p1,3,5.
In the rain. P3 felt quite tricky and bold in the conditions. With TC, SR, BM. Led p1,3,5.
Martin Bennett 5 Aug, 2018 - V good 1st pitch, hard for the grade. Rest is a bit scrappy with a lovely easy unprotected slab pitch. Certainly not a 3 star route, especially on this crag. Perhaps my least favourite of 38 routes on Cloggy so far.
with AlanB
V good 1st pitch, hard for the grade. Rest is a bit scrappy with a lovely easy unprotected slab pitch. Certainly not a 3 star route, especially on this crag. Perhaps my least favourite of 38 routes on Cloggy so far.
with AlanB
jimxxx 4 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Hal, Ron
with Hal, Ron
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jamie Brown 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 3, Rob P2 and 4, while Mike soloed past us (only slightly more dangerous than dragging a rope up some of it). Steady climbing with some crazy run outs, though we may not have taken to optimum line.
with Mike Shaw, lithos
Led P1 and 3, Rob P2 and 4, while Mike soloed past us (only slightly more dangerous than dragging a rope up some of it). Steady climbing with some crazy run outs, though we may not have taken to optimum line.
with Mike Shaw, lithos
Simon Caldwell 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S In 4 pitches, I led the odd ones. Pitch 2 up to the point where the edge of the slab is met, pitch 3 up to a reasonable flak belay a short way below the arete on the other side of the chimney, pitch 4 to the top. Really enjoyed this, on a different crag it would be much more popular. First pitch had plenty of gear, the rest didn't - more like VS 4a for the slab pitches! Not sure which prominent arete the guidebook means, if it's the one on the other side of the gully then it's neither good nor easy, if it's the broken thing you get to at the top of the slabs then it's not really obvious. Either way, best to finish by walking up the gully on the left of the broken ridge.
with Lemming
In 4 pitches, I led the odd ones. Pitch 2 up to the point where the edge of the slab is met, pitch 3 up to a reasonable flak belay a short way below the arete on the other side of the chimney, pitch 4 to the top. Really enjoyed this, on a different crag it would be much more popular. First pitch had plenty of gear, the rest didn't - more like VS 4a for the slab pitches! Not sure which prominent arete the guidebook means, if it's the one on the other side of the gully then it's neither good nor easy, if it's the broken thing you get to at the top of the slabs then it's not really obvious. Either way, best to finish by walking up the gully on the left of the broken ridge.
with Lemming
lithos 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd Jamie P1 -all good so far. I did a variant on P2 to the right, had some gear in first 5m then nothng for ages and ages and ages. Got 1 more wire in, and finished after 40m ! Jamie did a long P3 just left of the gully/crack and had gear and holds !. I finished to ridge and we unroped and scrambled of.. Goof climbing but stupidly bold.
Jamie P1 -all good so far. I did a variant on P2 to the right, had some gear in first 5m then nothng for ages and ages and ages. Got 1 more wire in, and finished after 40m ! Jamie did a long P3 just left of the gully/crack and had gear and holds !. I finished to ridge and we unroped and scrambled of.. Goof climbing but stupidly bold.
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
DMC 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd Led P2 and 5
Led P2 and 5
8PetrieC 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with DMC
with DMC
CameronH 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Liat Adler
with Liat Adler
Hidden 15 May, 2018 AltLd
tmawer 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Saved an over optimistic trip up as almost everything was wet.
Saved an over optimistic trip up as almost everything was wet.
BTphonehome 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S This saved an optimistic early cloggy punt to escape the crowds. Hairy! Easy climbing but very long runouts and a grim loose scramble to the top. P2 has one decent runner which is 8m from the belay and not a lot else in approx 30m. The first decent runner on P3 arrives at about 15m. Wet sections added to the spice. All in all not quite the romp we thought it would be!
with tmawer
This saved an optimistic early cloggy punt to escape the crowds. Hairy! Easy climbing but very long runouts and a grim loose scramble to the top. P2 has one decent runner which is 8m from the belay and not a lot else in approx 30m. The first decent runner on P3 arrives at about 15m. Wet sections added to the spice. All in all not quite the romp we thought it would be!
with tmawer
Glyn Davidson 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S HS climbing but E1 protection. P3 Slab felt very run out. I did pitch 1, 3 and part of 4. Shouted down to Dan from the belay "it would be good if you didn't fall". Lovely day and lovely views though.
with Dan77
HS climbing but E1 protection. P3 Slab felt very run out. I did pitch 1, 3 and part of 4. Shouted down to Dan from the belay "it would be good if you didn't fall". Lovely day and lovely views though.
with Dan77
Dan77 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Naomi.P 28 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Midge hell. I have learnt my lesson to avoid. First pitch interesting and I really could have enjoyed the run out slabs if I wasn't running up them with with only slits to see out of. We ended up simul climbing a bit with 1 bit of gear as Leo couldn't find a belay in the 25m we had at one point. Felt painful, stressed and rushed. Had to lie down in the breeze we finally reached at the top. 5 pitches took about an hour and a half. Water was nice and refreshing though!
Midge hell. I have learnt my lesson to avoid. First pitch interesting and I really could have enjoyed the run out slabs if I wasn't running up them with with only slits to see out of. We ended up simul climbing a bit with 1 bit of gear as Leo couldn't find a belay in the 25m we had at one point. Felt painful, stressed and rushed. Had to lie down in the breeze we finally reached at the top. 5 pitches took about an hour and a half. Water was nice and refreshing though!
leopolian 28 May, 2017 AltLd Midgy midgy midgy! Got a little bit unsafe trying to rush up to get away from those damn midges!
with Naomi.P
Midgy midgy midgy! Got a little bit unsafe trying to rush up to get away from those damn midges!
with Naomi.P
Hidden 6 May, 2017 2nd
will_benfold 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S Let Dave and Alex have the official line; we stayed just a couple of metres to the left. Did in three pitches (30+55+55). Not very much gear, and it was difficult finding something solid for the final belay. Was rather cold and very windy!
Let Dave and Alex have the official line; we stayed just a couple of metres to the left. Did in three pitches (30+55+55). Not very much gear, and it was difficult finding something solid for the final belay. Was rather cold and very windy!
Hidden 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S
DanC1985 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Sarah
with Sarah
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Francois R 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd Did the route as the guidebook mentions it dries quickly, but it is under average.
with Jason
Did the route as the guidebook mentions it dries quickly, but it is under average.
with Jason
Mark Salter 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
with Chris Shorrock
divadsci 19 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
mjackson 4 Jun, 2016 2nd
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2016 Lead
with GEordie
with GEordie
Jack2222 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Great climb on mostly good rock. Bold for the grade after the first pitch but still enjoyable. Very loose top out.
Great climb on mostly good rock. Bold for the grade after the first pitch but still enjoyable. Very loose top out.
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
richy85 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Great location but it was wet and green. Not the best climb. The only good pitch was the first one. The rest were unprotectable almost
with Sam from Bangor
Great location but it was wet and green. Not the best climb. The only good pitch was the first one. The rest were unprotectable almost
with Sam from Bangor
Louishmouis 12 Aug, 2015 -
with finn
with finn
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
gingerking ?Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with tmather
with tmather
tmather ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
Mike Hale 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
matt.stevenson 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 and then 4 & 5 as one. Fairly run out after the first pitch and very loose rock on the scramble to the top!
Led pitch 1 and then 4 & 5 as one. Fairly run out after the first pitch and very loose rock on the scramble to the top!
ruthieie 7 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Amazing climbing defiantly worth the 2 stars. Last two scramble pitches had VERY loose rock.
Amazing climbing defiantly worth the 2 stars. Last two scramble pitches had VERY loose rock.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd
spenser 24 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Very good route, 4b is all in the first pitch. The latter pitches all have very run out sections of slab climbing. Belays on everything other than the first pitch are relatively tricky. Take hexes and several cams around size 0-3 and you should be able to tame the route a bit. Definitely more than we bargained for but a fantastic experience!
with Jon Cheetham
Very good route, 4b is all in the first pitch. The latter pitches all have very run out sections of slab climbing. Belays on everything other than the first pitch are relatively tricky. Take hexes and several cams around size 0-3 and you should be able to tame the route a bit. Definitely more than we bargained for but a fantastic experience!
with Jon Cheetham
peterhubbard 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd Climbed in 5 pitches. I led p2 and p4
with Neil Stutchbury
Climbed in 5 pitches. I led p2 and p4
with Neil Stutchbury
Bob ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
sopaz 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd
simonvand 12 Aug, 2013 AltLd
roberts1234567890 12 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with simonvand, Callum Bridger
with simonvand, Callum Bridger
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Double Knee Bar 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Andy lead first pitch. Surprising how little protection is on the upper slabs.
Andy lead first pitch. Surprising how little protection is on the upper slabs.
rbharries 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Great day out, 2nd pitch onwards is easy climbing but with no gear, nice little adventure
with josie McG
Great day out, 2nd pitch onwards is easy climbing but with no gear, nice little adventure
with josie McG
DOVEY 2 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Fran
with Fran
francesanncavanagh 2 Jun, 2013 AltLd Dovey lead first pitch.
with Ian Dovey
Dovey lead first pitch.
with Ian Dovey
maria85 25 May, 2013 AltLd O/S First pitch is nice, the rest are mediocre. Not worth 2*.
with Amy
First pitch is nice, the rest are mediocre. Not worth 2*.
with Amy
Hidden 3 Mar, 2013 AltLd
mike lawrence? ??, 2013 Solo
Roger Cruse 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Mark
with Kris & Mark
Mark Young 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Roger Cruse, Kris
with Roger Cruse, Kris
stratandrew 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd Me P1 & P3. Steve P2 & P4. fist pitch good traverse (as it was dry - would be v serious in wet) then good gear in greasy crack climbed on jams. P2 & P3 hardly any gear at all on the slabs but mostly easy angle.
Me P1 & P3. Steve P2 & P4. fist pitch good traverse (as it was dry - would be v serious in wet) then good gear in greasy crack climbed on jams. P2 & P3 hardly any gear at all on the slabs but mostly easy angle.
Ollie B 27 May, 2012 Solo O/S Nice first pitch. Scrappy therafter. Like Idwal without the polish
Nice first pitch. Scrappy therafter. Like Idwal without the polish
Hidden 27 May, 2012 AltLd
RoscoJB 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with rba
with rba
Hidden ?May, 2012 Solo O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2012 Lead
joe_lancs 25 Mar, 2012 Lead Definitely did first pitch but not sure about the rest!
Definitely did first pitch but not sure about the rest!
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 -
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 -
Archibald 14 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Very bad route. We just climb it in Cloggy, I prefere Gogarth, witch is a very good cliff.
Very bad route. We just climb it in Cloggy, I prefere Gogarth, witch is a very good cliff.
Archibald ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Very bad route. We disliked. It's not difficult but never beautiful.
Very bad route. We disliked. It's not difficult but never beautiful.
SKB 21 Jun, 2011 AltLd
with Pross, Phil
with Pross, Phil
Alex.M-M. 14 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Julie Carroll 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Ross
with Ross
Hidden 27 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Stuart Hurworth 27 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent. First pitch has one or two 4b moves, but after that its several pitches of delightful clean slab climbing!! Protection is tricky in places, need some micronuts lower down, but is a bit better above & the moves are easy. We belayed just above end of 2nd pitch in the gully & didn't find the belay for pitch 3 so belayed at the shattered spike/block/mini arete at the top of the gully. Think this was probably a little off route, missed out what looked like lovely clean climbing up the slabs on the left, if only for a few moves before the easy scramble over heather and loose rock. Done in 4 pitches with 60m doubles.
Excellent. First pitch has one or two 4b moves, but after that its several pitches of delightful clean slab climbing!! Protection is tricky in places, need some micronuts lower down, but is a bit better above & the moves are easy. We belayed just above end of 2nd pitch in the gully & didn't find the belay for pitch 3 so belayed at the shattered spike/block/mini arete at the top of the gully. Think this was probably a little off route, missed out what looked like lovely clean climbing up the slabs on the left, if only for a few moves before the easy scramble over heather and loose rock. Done in 4 pitches with 60m doubles.
dan_o_b ?Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
tedburt 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Very cold!
with Aaron Burdett
Very cold!
with Aaron Burdett
Hidden 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd
stuart34 21 Jun, 2010 2nd
Tomprusk 6 Jun, 2010 Solo O/S quite loose at the top of the climb
quite loose at the top of the climb
Nick Nitro 5 Jun, 2010 Solo O/S
Haszko 4 Jun, 2010 Lead Clean, no loose rock, very sparse protection, excellent climbing
Clean, no loose rock, very sparse protection, excellent climbing
Hidden ?May, 2010 AltLd
alancash100 ??, 2010 AltLd This route is great if you like 25 metre run outs, poor belays on sloping grassy ledges and massess of loose, head sized rocks - no mention of this in the ground up guide, it describes the route as "delightful"!
This route is great if you like 25 metre run outs, poor belays on sloping grassy ledges and massess of loose, head sized rocks - no mention of this in the ground up guide, it describes the route as "delightful"!
peter myers ?Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Ralph Heath
with Ralph Heath
willoates ?Sep, 2009 Lead dog poor route... slid 20m head first down the fourth pitch (foot slipped in the wet) onto the only cam I took with me.
poor route... slid 20m head first down the fourth pitch (foot slipped in the wet) onto the only cam I took with me.
Bennykr 25 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
with Jonny
Od 25 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Jill Reinsch
with Jill Reinsch
hils theaker 1 Jun, 2009 AltLd some awkward sections on 1st pitch, rest is run-out but easy climbing
with Adam
some awkward sections on 1st pitch, rest is run-out but easy climbing
with Adam
adam06 1 Jun, 2009 AltLd very run-out after the first pitch, and last pitch is dodgy - feels like the flakes gonna break-off. other than that, nice intro to clogy
very run-out after the first pitch, and last pitch is dodgy - feels like the flakes gonna break-off. other than that, nice intro to clogy
stevemcg 31 May, 2009 AltLd
with Liz
with Liz
fizzychewitt 31 May, 2009 AltLd
with Steve
with Steve
Conan 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S Very average route. Certainly not 2 stars!
Very average route. Certainly not 2 stars!
Hidden 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2009 2nd O/S
Tanya Savage 30 May, 2009 AltLd First pitch good and thought-provoking, loses the plot after that
First pitch good and thought-provoking, loses the plot after that
Neil Pacey 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Poor route. One pitch followed by easy poorly protected slabs. No stars
Poor route. One pitch followed by easy poorly protected slabs. No stars
Shaw Brown 25 May, 2009 Lead
with Joanne Larty
with Joanne Larty
steve prior ?May, 2009 AltLd
with Andy C
with Andy C
Hidden 15 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 15 Mar, 2009 AltLd
rob1 20 Sep, 2008 Lead
dicky79 13 Jul, 2008 -
with Nicola
with Nicola
Ben Griffiths 12 Jul, 2008 2nd multi-pitch
multi-pitch
Hidden 30 Jun, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 30 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
Rog Wilko 12 May, 2008 Lead A disappointing route, not worth 3 stars. First pitch is solid VS 4c. The rest is easy but with huge runouts and an easy gully a step away most of the time. Last pitch loose and unpleasant.
with Debbie Wilkinson
A disappointing route, not worth 3 stars. First pitch is solid VS 4c. The rest is easy but with huge runouts and an easy gully a step away most of the time. Last pitch loose and unpleasant.
with Debbie Wilkinson
jiles ??, 2008 -
jiles ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
runestone 15 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
with J
with J
naine 26 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S stupid slab at the beginning-had frozen feet. great after that
stupid slab at the beginning-had frozen feet. great after that
Wilbur 26 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Lead P2+4 (we ran 5 pitches into 4). First Cloggy experience and i imagine typical of most people's - i.e. difficult route finding! Easy climbing but VERY run out.
with viking
Lead P2+4 (we ran 5 pitches into 4). First Cloggy experience and i imagine typical of most people's - i.e. difficult route finding! Easy climbing but VERY run out.
with viking
viking ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S particularly enjoyed the 40ft runs outs
with wilbur
particularly enjoyed the 40ft runs outs
with wilbur
My Gravity 9 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Paul N
with Paul N
Strange little creature 9 May, 2007 Lead O/S felt like a 4a Severe, but lovely aspect and views a nice climb
with Andy Longwill
felt like a 4a Severe, but lovely aspect and views a nice climb
with Andy Longwill
TRNovice 21 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Jenn
with Jenn
Jenn 21 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Moniawl 22 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Rich A-Wilkes 22 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Moniawl
with Moniawl
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2006 Solo Overrated.
Overrated.
Hidden ?May, 2005 Lead
Just Another Dave ??, 2000 -
with Laura
with Laura
Ed Booth ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jun, 1991 AltLd
with Sarah Keekus, Nick Keekus
with Sarah Keekus, Nick Keekus
Darron ??, 1980 -
RichardMc 15 Jul, 1979 Lead
with Harry Woodbridge
with Harry Woodbridge
Bolt Phobia 8 Jun, 1976 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
with Wil Hurford
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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 30
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set