UKC

Restricted Access

North Face - seasonal climbing restriction due to nesting birds, usually from 1st April to 30th June.

All faces- climbers must seek a reservation permit from the local authority to climb here otherwise they will be fined, link to the website with the pdf guide for booking here: https://www.calpe.es/en/discover-calpe/natural-areas/pe%C3%B1on-de-ifach

79m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A neglected route up the centre of the wall with three pitches. With a rebolting and some traffic, it could be a classic. The gear is very old and route-finding awkward.
1) 6b, 32m. Cross the overlap, then climb leftwards to reach a crack that slants to the right through the bulges. Climb this until an awkward pull gains an easy groove leading to a good stance.
2) 6b, 20m. Step right and climb the shallow groove until difficult moves lead up and left to better holds. Continue up and left to a long flake crack that leads to a small stance.
3) 5, 25m. Climb up until forced left into the chimney. After the awkward exit from this, climb to the big tree belay.
Continue to the top (3 ) or abseil off. © Rockfax

FA. E.L?pez 1985.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Morgan Woods 14 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Quite thrutchy and poor gear (including the belay) of rusty bolts, piton & old threads.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite thrutchy and poor gear (including the belay) of rusty bolts, piton & old threads.

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Isla de encanta

Grade: 6b ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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