235m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E3. A massive mountaineering classic which takes in some incredible rock at a reasonable grade. It follows a long sweeping diagonal line through the series of huge honeycomb caves high on the wall. Take a small rack of gear including some foot slings for the aid pitch. Some of the fixed gear is old but there are some new bolts and all the belays are new and equipped for abseil. Start below a diagonal crack.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the crack up rightwards then move onto a flake which comes back left. Make a tricky move out right, past a bolt, to a sloping stance.
2) 5+, 15m. The groove above is awkward.
3) A0/5+, 40m. Climb up a groove, then move right onto the wall. Head up here towards a diagonal crack. Aid along this (free at 7b+), then climb up to a stance in the base of the huge caves.
4) 4, 35m. Climb to the top-left corner of the cave and pull round into a large bay. Scramble left and make exposed moves on a short rib around to another cave system and bolt belay.
5) 3+, 40m. Scramble leftwards to a belay on the edge of a cave.
6) 5+, 40m. Climb up flakes to the foot of a groove (possible belay). Follow the corner, then make tricky moves into the crack above. This leads to a stance below a chimney.
7) 6b, 40m. Squirm up the chimney and the grooves above until you are forced right onto a ramp and an exposed belay.
8) 6b, 40m. Climb up into a corner and follow this to a bulge. Move around this on undercuts and follow a corner above to easier ground, bolt belay. Scramble 10m to the top from here (alternative bolt belay). © Rockfax

FA. Miguel Cano, Migeul Gómez 1970s 1975

George_Surf 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

E3 in the guide but probably worth e2. The easier pitches are probably slightly under graded, I would say 6a+/5+/6a A0/5/3+/6a/6b/6b. Needs a set of wires, cams and short slings. Only p1 and p3 are fully bolted, the other pitches have the odd bolt/peg/thread. All belays are bolted for abseil. A big rain storm came off the mountains when we started p7, not ideal but it wasn’t too horrendous and we were able to finish the route. Some of the upper cracks are getting polished. The whole climb is pretty strenuous, including the aid pitch! Pretty adventurous, good fun. Car to car 6.5hrs

rachelpearce01 12/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
mike fenwick 31/Mar/17 AltLd

Finished via pitch 7 of El Navigante (which was superb!), and abbed into the top of UBSA for a quick social finish.

with Jas Wood
Hidden 31/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
tmawer 08/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Awesome route....20 years on the list and worth the wait, and steph's first ever multi pitch!

with stephm, Bram
stephm 08/Nov/16 2nd
with bram, Tony
BTphonehome 08/Nov/16 AltLd

After starting up the wrong route yesterday and wondering what on earth was happening, this absolutely lived up to 3* classic status in every way. An outstanding day out. Great fun learning how to aid climb half way up the penon! Some brilliant, varied pitches culminating in sunset on the last. And to top it all off it was Steph's first multi-pitch and been on Tony's ticklist for over 20 years. Brilliant day.

with Tony, Steph
Hidden 11/Jan/16 AltLd
manbat 11/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

What an epic! Felt pretty demanding third day on. I led pitches 2, 3, 5, 7 and 9. I'd give the pitches 6a+, 6a, 5+, aid pitch, 5, 3+, 6a+, 6b, 6b. Many pitches had only a couple of bolts and/or dodgy looking tat, so a full trad rack is essential. I wouldn't say it's E3, but it's at least E1. P1: Hard start P2: Very hard for the grade, urgent stemming up a difficult corner. P3: Not too bad. P4: Difficult climbing (at least 6a+, and run out) before reaching the bolt ladder. Brutal and strenuous aid climbing from there on. P5: Climbing not too bad, but suspect rock and almost no fixed gear. P6: Yay, easy ground to a comfortable stance. P7: Increases in difficulty to maybe the hardest part of the climb - some burly jamming with poor feet. The rest of the pitch is no walk over. 6a+. P8: A run out reaches relatively easy ground in the chimney. The second half of the pitch is hard on an awkward leaning crack. P9: Solid 6b corner climbing. Cockfax's beta of easier ground above the bulge is wrong. Maybe the hardest part of the pitch. A great climb with plenty of value in every pitch.

Shaw Brown 30/Dec/15 2nd

A great trip other than getting stuck in the chimney with my rucksack!

Stoney Boy 11/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Very atmospheric journey. Had to give myself some counseling before the squirmfest on pitch 7.

with Uli
Simon Allcock 18/Dec/13 Lead O/S

led pitches 1, 4, 6.

with Wilki
Hidden 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S
elCapitano 17/Mar/12 AltLd

All free pitches onsight. First pitch felt very stiff, more like pumpy 6b. Fine after that. More run out sport 6b than E3. Went off route at the top and climbed pitch 7 of El Navigante at 6a then topped out on an unidentified super steep aid route. A class day out!!

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 17/Mar/12 AltLd

Lead pitches 2, 4, 6. Replaced final two pitches with the seventh of El navigante and an unidentifed aid pitch.

SMc 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
koalapie 08/Nov/10 AltLd
lrandall 02/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, the highlight of the week. Lead pitches 2,3,5 and 7. The grade 5/5+ pitches are stiff at the grade which made us both nervous about the top two crux pitches, but these were no harder then 6b and surprisingly well bolted. Not at all comparable to E3 as per the Rockfax guide - some British 5c moves but barely E1.

with Christophe
Hidden ??/2010 -
jonnie3430 04/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
HansStuttgart ??/2008 -

Best route on the wall!

phil hay 24/Apr/07 AltLd β

Polished slippery rock early morning start crazy seagulls well bolted but used some trad gear where there was a few long run-outs plenty of tourists on the top to congratulate you.

with andy higginbottom
chris wyatt ??/2005 Lead dog

Not quite clean

Hidden 05/Feb/04 2nd dnf
Hidden 26/Dec/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
dickypips 12/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with Steve James
dan gibson ?/Nov/00 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 30/Oct/00 AltLd
shoulders 28/Feb/00 AltLd
with pete lewis
Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/99 AltLd

Big route for a winter's day. Last day's climbing at the end of my first week on the Costa Blanca. Found the last pitch quite pumpy but I was seconding that with the sack on - in the dark!

with Colin Skeath
charlesmfrench 26/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
with Mark Vandome
sharpie ?/Jan/97 Lead O/S
with John Harwood
Hidden ?/Dec/95 AltLd
robtrooper ??/1995 -
Nick Biven 26/Dec/94 AltLd O/S

A Boxing Day adventure - aided the 7b pitch

with Dave O'Dowd
Hidden 08/Jan/93 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?/Dec/92 AltLd


with Jim Waddington
pete johnson 17/Feb/92 AltLd O/S
with Andy Blakely
Hidden 02/Jan/92 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/89 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/85 Lead
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