45m, 2 pitches.
Top pitch as described by First Ascentionist below:
I've never climbed the second pitch as described here (and in Rockfax) via the shiny grey slab; I always took a line based on the left arête straight above the belay niche, climbed mostly on its left side, as consistently described in successive CC guides. It's possible that something came off in the years soon after the FA - I vaguely recall committing to a dodgy flake, and I think there was mention of someone taking to the air clutching such an item (the FA was onsight, ground-up, so no previous cleaning) - but I've done the route far more recently and still took the same line. I only mention this because the various database comments include instances of people having a hard time or even failing on the top pitch, when in fact they were quite possibly off-route if using this description! I've no idea where the shiny slab version came from; people have obviously gone that way but probably initially by mistake. Perhaps it should become the standard finish for Trevallen Arête!
I've never climbed the second pitch as described here (and in Rockfax) via the shiny grey slab; I always took a line based on the left arête straight above the belay niche, climbed mostly on its left side, as consistently described in successive CC guides. It's possible that something came off in the years soon after the FA - I vaguely recall committing to a dodgy flake, and I think there was mention of someone taking to the air clutching such an item (the FA was onsight, ground-up, so no previous cleaning) - but I've done the route far more recently and still took the same line. I only mention this because the various database comments include instances of people having a hard time or even failing on the top pitch, when in fact they were quite possibly off-route if using this description! I've no idea where the shiny slab version came from; people have obviously gone that way but probably initially by mistake. Perhaps it should become the standard finish for Trevallen Arête!
FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 20/Jun/1981.
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100 best limestone climbs in Britain
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simon King | 21 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: A must do where it pays to take your time and work out the hard move above the thread on the pillar section. Top section, old second pitch, up left arete is pretty tough also! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A must do where it pays to take your time and work out the hard move above the thread on the pillar section. Top section, old second pitch, up left arete is pretty tough also! |
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Route of Interest
Ecstasy
Grade: E4 6a ***
(The Cauldron)