90m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start at a groove containing a small bush. Improves the 3 star regular route, if that is indeed possible!
1) 3+, 30m. Climb the wall to a short groove. Up this to a ledge and continue up the broken groove to reach a good ledge.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb left across the groove and up the arete (pegs) to a ledge. Take care with loose rock on this pitch.
3) 4, 30m. Climb directly up the grooves above to reach the large ledge mention on the normal start.
© Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jim blackford 17 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S 3h30. Simul climbed 1-5 @ 11-13 with progress capture device; led 6-9. Several HS pitches , then many short bits of S with loads of VD. George led pitch 10 which we felt was top end VS/ 5 but might have been the heavy bags.
3h30. Simul climbed 1-5 @ 11-13 with progress capture device; led 6-9. Several HS pitches , then many short bits of S with loads of VD. George led pitch 10 which we felt was top end VS/ 5 but might have been the heavy bags.
KernowCrag 17 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S 3h30. Simul climbed 1-5 @ 11-13 with progress capture device; led 6-9. Several HS pitches , then many short bits of S with loads of VD. George led pitch 10 which we felt was top end VS/ 5 but might have been the heavy bags.
3h30. Simul climbed 1-5 @ 11-13 with progress capture device; led 6-9. Several HS pitches , then many short bits of S with loads of VD. George led pitch 10 which we felt was top end VS/ 5 but might have been the heavy bags.
Mick Riley 24 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt
with Jooblia
with Jooblia
Hidden 24 Nov, 2018 2nd
HP9 19 Feb, 2018 Lead Solo P1 and 3. Lead P2
with 5eamuz, Michael Samsel
Solo P1 and 3. Lead P2
with 5eamuz, Michael Samsel
5eamuz 19 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Michal Samsel, HP9
with Michal Samsel, HP9
slimmy03 27 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reeves
with Carl Reeves
s_sheath 17 Apr, 2017 2nd
steve-grigg 17 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 5 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S I led these ones as part of my lead block on the main route. Straight forward.
with John Inkpen, Nadir khan
I led these ones as part of my lead block on the main route. Straight forward.
with John Inkpen, Nadir khan
Hidden 26 Oct, 2016 Lead
Mark Eddy 17 May, 2016 Lead Went off route on pitch 1 and wasted a fair bit of time getting back on track. Paid more attention after this and stayed on track for remainder. Similar in difficulty to crux pitches of main route. Overall I wouldn't say it makes the route better over the 'quick start' both are very worthwhile.
Went off route on pitch 1 and wasted a fair bit of time getting back on track. Paid more attention after this and stayed on track for remainder. Similar in difficulty to crux pitches of main route. Overall I wouldn't say it makes the route better over the 'quick start' both are very worthwhile.
carlh 25 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
with scott44
with scott44
Hidden 25 Apr, 2016 AltLd
AEH 11 Mar, 2016 2nd
oddis 11 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S Arnfred did this in one hughe pitch. Pierre and I simply followed. Great start.
Arnfred did this in one hughe pitch. Pierre and I simply followed. Great start.
PAJames ??, 2016 -
leathers 12 Oct, 2015 AltLd
with Rich Cole
with Rich Cole
plain kitten 11 Feb, 2015 -
plain kitten 11 Feb, 2015 Lead
jamie ward 5 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ellis Blower
with Ellis Blower
Hidden 15 May, 2014 2nd
robblowen 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S
JoeWakefield 3 May, 2014 2nd
barrington1978 11 Mar, 2014 -
Hidden 21 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
benscarter 21 Feb, 2014 AltLd
with jwpil
with jwpil
derryclimbs 26 Jan, 2014 Lead O/S simul climbed for the start to espolon central. Good gear and some good moves. not sure where I went wrong on the second pitch but seemed to pose more of a crux than anything else we did that day.
simul climbed for the start to espolon central. Good gear and some good moves. not sure where I went wrong on the second pitch but seemed to pose more of a crux than anything else we did that day.
Hidden 8 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 6 Nov, 2013 Lead
Adventure Bennie 23 Oct, 2013 2nd dog 1 fall due to poor foot placement.
with Billy mackintosh, Alan leckey
1 fall due to poor foot placement.
with Billy mackintosh, Alan leckey
Louvet 16 Oct, 2013 2nd
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
Tarquin 16 Oct, 2013 Lead
with Louvet
with Louvet
mustang man 19 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
snowy white 19 Sep, 2013 Lead
with mustang man, Army Expedition Climbing
with mustang man, Army Expedition Climbing
GOS 23 May, 2013 AltLd O/S EOC P1/3; GOS P2
with Eamonn O'Connor
EOC P1/3; GOS P2
with Eamonn O'Connor
Theeni 4 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S As part of the main route.
with Kitty Court
As part of the main route.
with Kitty Court
Hidden 3 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
crustypunkuk 3 Apr, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden 31 Dec, 2012 2nd dog
Tarquin 30 Nov, 2012 Lead
with Louvet
with Louvet
Louvet 30 Nov, 2012 2nd
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
Hidden 8 Nov, 2012 AltLd
debbie roberts 2 Nov, 2012 2nd
Marti999 2 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 24 May, 2012 AltLd O/S A great start to a great route.
with Anette
A great start to a great route.
with Anette
peterbradshaw101 19 Apr, 2012 2nd
with lithos
with lithos
lithos 19 Apr, 2012 Lead In a gale which made it interesting, led all pitches
with peterbradshaw101, julie
In a gale which made it interesting, led all pitches
with peterbradshaw101, julie
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Warren Earle 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Started at 3.00pm carried 1.5l water each and left it with a rope and some gear at the ledge ready for the next day and ab´d off
with Iain Powell
Started at 3.00pm carried 1.5l water each and left it with a rope and some gear at the ledge ready for the next day and ab´d off
with Iain Powell
Matthew Edwards 31 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Led p1+2 as 1, Henry let p3
Led p1+2 as 1, Henry let p3
Henry Brown 31 Mar, 2012 AltLd
beckybray1 18 Mar, 2012 2nd RP
rgd1977 18 Mar, 2012 Lead
Mick Riley 12 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Done in 2 pitches, led pitch 2
with Ken prandy
Done in 2 pitches, led pitch 2
with Ken prandy
chriisu 21 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S I was constantly amazed how the climbing was so awesome. We had some minor issues on the route finding and ended up on linking the 4th, 5th and 6th pitch together by climbing a straight line a bit higher. The problems arised when I figured out the next pitch was 50m when I had racked up as it was 25m... Despite the fairly easy grade it's quite exposed and you should be confident placing gear. The descent route is well marked but is a bit tricky.
I was constantly amazed how the climbing was so awesome. We had some minor issues on the route finding and ended up on linking the 4th, 5th and 6th pitch together by climbing a straight line a bit higher. The problems arised when I figured out the next pitch was 50m when I had racked up as it was 25m... Despite the fairly easy grade it's quite exposed and you should be confident placing gear. The descent route is well marked but is a bit tricky.
tim newton 6 Feb, 2012 Solo O/S
Jonathan Emett 6 Feb, 2012 Solo O/S
Henry Brown ??, 2012 -
Tenko 15 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Guy Williams
with Guy Williams
Hidden 22 Sep, 2011 2nd
Tarquin 22 Sep, 2011 -
with Sarah, Liz
with Sarah, Liz
Hidden ?May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
dkd 29 Apr, 2011 2nd
with karly54
with karly54
Hidden 12 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Apr, 2011 AltLd
THardSevere 6 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S awesome day out and a fine end to the trip in costa blanca. descent was longer and more challenging than we thought it would be
awesome day out and a fine end to the trip in costa blanca. descent was longer and more challenging than we thought it would be
Liam Ingram 6 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
jon clayton ?Apr, 2011 AltLd
with luke dudill
with luke dudill
Glyn 26 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Moved together 1hr 40 min
with Tom Skelhon
Moved together 1hr 40 min
with Tom Skelhon
Hidden 22 Feb, 2011 Lead dnf
Chris the Tall 5 Feb, 2011 AltLd Done in approx 7 pitches, Dave leading first
with Dave Coley
Done in approx 7 pitches, Dave leading first
with Dave Coley
RKernan 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with C Mann
with C Mann
JenDurden 5 Jan, 2011 2nd O/S
jon clayton 5 Jan, 2011 Lead
with jason williams
with jason williams
Hidden 5 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Jo Davison 5 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Robin Head 5 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with Jo Davison, Jen, joepremier
with Jo Davison, Jen, joepremier
jcj ??, 2011 -
with jon paul clayton
with jon paul clayton
Hidden 4 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
JimBee ?Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S P1 M. P2 J. P3 M. Very easy to find, good short cut and excellent start to climbing EC.
with Matt Ellis
P1 M. P2 J. P3 M. Very easy to find, good short cut and excellent start to climbing EC.
with Matt Ellis
Hidden ?Nov, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
Seb31 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 2010 AltLd
KevB 21 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S In parallel. Bolted belays.
with Student x2
In parallel. Bolted belays.
with Student x2
Hidden 14 Apr, 2010 AltLd
j0shwyatt000 14 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
MDowson 14 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
with josh wyatt
with josh wyatt
Richard Gilbert 4 Mar, 2010 AltLd Awesome day. Sunny, v windy. Alex and Idoia followed us, followed by Huw with Tom and Mike. Paul and I started at 8am, topped out at 3pm waited 2 hours on top for others before getting cold and descending then waiting three more hours in the car for them. 10pm in the dark! Late beers and steak!
with Paul Padman
Awesome day. Sunny, v windy. Alex and Idoia followed us, followed by Huw with Tom and Mike. Paul and I started at 8am, topped out at 3pm waited 2 hours on top for others before getting cold and descending then waiting three more hours in the car for them. 10pm in the dark! Late beers and steak!
with Paul Padman
Hidden ?Feb, 2010 -
Liam FLeming 3 Nov, 2009 Lead
with karen dalzell
with karen dalzell
Jeremy Wilton 9 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S As mentioned - did the direct start to the Espolon Central
with Ashley Stevens
As mentioned - did the direct start to the Espolon Central
with Ashley Stevens
steveadkinson 5 May, 2009 2nd
with Tim & Ryan
with Tim & Ryan
Hidden 5 May, 2009 2nd O/S
jacoob81 ?May, 2009 2nd
dickie01 25 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Nick Briggs
with Nick Briggs
Hidden 14 Apr, 2009 2nd
Hidden 14 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
Stuart Macfarlane 26 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S Did the 3 pitch direct start but did not complete rest of route, ended up abbing down into gully behind normal start.
with Jeanie
Did the 3 pitch direct start but did not complete rest of route, ended up abbing down into gully behind normal start.
with Jeanie
Hidden 25 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S
Lunar25 ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with Phil Marsh
with Phil Marsh
Hidden 18 Feb, 2009 2nd
Hidden 9 Nov, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Nov, 2008 2nd
Joez 9 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S Epic, benighted, decent in the dark - 14 hours fun was had :)
with Chris and Paul
Epic, benighted, decent in the dark - 14 hours fun was had :)
with Chris and Paul
Hidden ?Nov, 2008 Lead
gordon henderson 21 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
crisaitken 21 Oct, 2008 AltLd
Mr Tickle 4 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Martyn Eales
with Martyn Eales
jamie ward 4 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Robbie Smyth
with Robbie Smyth
Hidden 21 May, 2008 AltLd β
Jo Morrison 21 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Awesome! We didn't quite follow the route in the book and went nearer to the abseil points which meant we were in the shade for longer. We could tell when we were back on route when the rock got polished.
with Skinny
Awesome! We didn't quite follow the route in the book and went nearer to the abseil points which meant we were in the shade for longer. We could tell when we were back on route when the rock got polished.
with Skinny
Martin Bennett 6 May, 2008 -
with Simno
with Simno
barni 29 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Paul James
with Paul James
Conan 23 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S Great easy route.
with Chris Michalak
Great easy route.
with Chris Michalak
Hidden 23 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
Glyn 17 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
will9911 ?Mar, 2008 - moved together up the whole thing easy for the grade
with greg
moved together up the whole thing easy for the grade
with greg
Nigel R Lewis 9 Feb, 2008 AltLd
with Tyrone saunders
with Tyrone saunders
Peter Metcalfe 27 Jan, 2008 AltLd
with Jenn Burt
with Jenn Burt
Hidden 7 Nov, 2007 2nd O/S
jcurley 28 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S led 2nd
with Horace
led 2nd
with Horace
JonHarvey 18 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S Seems like a much better start compared to normal 3 pitches
Seems like a much better start compared to normal 3 pitches
Hidden 18 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
mjeffery ?Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2007 Lead
alan.onslow ?Mar, 2007 2nd
with Will, James
with Will, James
Tom Phillips 22 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S pretty easy for grade 5 - no harder than some of the upper pitches
with Bru
pretty easy for grade 5 - no harder than some of the upper pitches
with Bru
featuresforfeet 24 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Angel
with Angel
mr bounce ?Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with Shona
with Shona
Hidden 5 Apr, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 4 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
Bux ?Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S Rob led odd pitches, i led even (i think?). Amazing day out. Including the run down the scree (sp?) slope
with Rob
Rob led odd pitches, i led even (i think?). Amazing day out. Including the run down the scree (sp?) slope
with Rob
shaun walby 17 Mar, 2004 2nd O/S
with Mark Edwards
with Mark Edwards
shaun walby 17 Mar, 2004 AltLd O/S
SR1970 ?Apr, 2003 AltLd O/S
lithos 5 Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S great day out, next time do the extension
with Pete Evans
great day out, next time do the extension
with Pete Evans
Simon Caldwell 5 Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S C pitches 1,3,5,9 me pitches 2,4,6,7,8,10,11
with Lemming
C pitches 1,3,5,9 me pitches 2,4,6,7,8,10,11
with Lemming
dan gibson ?Nov, 2002 Solo O/S
Hidden 4 Dec, 2000 AltLd
rockjedi12345 ??, 2000 Lead route guided on whilst working for rowland edwards
route guided on whilst working for rowland edwards
apollo18 ??, 1998 AltLd O/S Awesome long day out. So many that we lost count of the pitches!
with The Youth
Awesome long day out. So many that we lost count of the pitches!
with The Youth
steve prior ?Nov, 1995 Lead
with Roz C
with Roz C
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Votes cast 23
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set