90m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start at a groove containing a small bush. Improves the 3 star regular route, if that is indeed possible! 1) 3+, 30m. Climb the wall to a short groove. Up this to a ledge and continue up the broken groove to reach a good ledge. 2) 4+, 30m. Climb left across the groove and up the arete (pegs) to a ledge. Take care with loose rock on this pitch. 3) 4, 30m. Climb directly up the grooves above to reach the large ledge mention on the normal start. © Rockfax

s_sheath 17/Apr 2nd
steve-grigg 17/Apr Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 05/Mar Lead O/S

I led these ones as part of my lead block on the main route. Straight forward.

with John Inkpen, Nadir Khan
Hidden 26/Oct/16 Lead
Mark Eddy 17/May/16 Lead

Went off route on pitch 1 and wasted a fair bit of time getting back on track. Paid more attention after this and stayed on track for remainder. Similar in difficulty to crux pitches of main route. Overall I wouldn't say it makes the route better over the 'quick start' both are very worthwhile.

carlh 25/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with scott44
Hidden 25/Apr/16 AltLd
AEH 11/Mar/16 2nd
oddis 11/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Arnfred did this in one hughe pitch. Pierre and I simply followed. Great start.

PAJames ??/2016 -
leathers 12/Oct/15 AltLd
with Rich Cole
plain kitten 11/Feb/15 -
plain kitten 11/Feb/15 Lead
jamie ward 05/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Ellis Blower
Hidden 15/May/14 2nd
robblowen 04/May/14 Lead O/S
JoeWakefield 03/May/14 2nd
barrington1978 11/Mar/14 -
jwpil 21/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Ben
benscarter 21/Feb/14 AltLd
with Jack
derryclimbs 26/Jan/14 Lead O/S

simul climbed for the start to espolon central. Good gear and some good moves. not sure where I went wrong on the second pitch but seemed to pose more of a crux than anything else we did that day.

Hidden 08/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 06/Nov/13 Lead
Adventure Bennie 23/Oct/13 2nd dog

1 fall due to poor foot placement.

with Billy mackintosh, Alan leckey
Louvet 16/Oct/13 2nd
with Tarquin
Tarquin 16/Oct/13 Lead
with Louise
mustang man 19/Sep/13 2nd O/S
snowy white 19/Sep/13 Lead
with mustang man, Army Expedition Climbing
GOS 23/May/13 AltLd O/S

EOC P1/3; GOS P2

with Eamonn O'Connor
Theeni 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S

As part of the main route.

with Kitty Court
Hidden 03/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
crustypunkuk 03/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Dec/12 2nd dog
Tarquin 30/Nov/12 Lead
with Louise
Louvet 30/Nov/12 2nd
with Tarquin
Hidden 08/Nov/12 AltLd
debbie roberts 02/Nov/12 2nd
Marti999 02/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
charlesmfrench 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

A great start to a great route.

with Anette
lithos 19/Apr/12 Lead

In a gale which made it interesting, led all pitches

with Pete Bradshaw, julie
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Warren Earle 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Started at 3.00pm carried 1.5l water each and left it with a rope and some gear at the ledge ready for the next day and ab´d off

with Iain Powell
Matthew Edwards 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1+2 as 1, Henry let p3

Henry Brown 31/Mar/12 AltLd
beckybray1 18/Mar/12 2nd RP
rgd1977 18/Mar/12 Lead
Mick Riley 12/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Done in 2 pitches, led pitch 2

with Ken prandy
chriisu 21/Feb/12 Lead O/S

I was constantly amazed how the climbing was so awesome. We had some minor issues on the route finding and ended up on linking the 4th, 5th and 6th pitch together by climbing a straight line a bit higher. The problems arised when I figured out the next pitch was 50m when I had racked up as it was 25m... Despite the fairly easy grade it's quite exposed and you should be confident placing gear. The descent route is well marked but is a bit tricky.

tim newton 06/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Jonathan Emett 06/Feb/12 Solo O/S
with tim
Henry Brown ??/2012 -
Tenko 15/Oct/11 AltLd
with Guy Williams
Hidden 22/Sep/11 2nd
Tarquin 22/Sep/11 -
with Sarah, Liz
Hidden ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
karly54 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Very worthwhile. Royal wedding day.

dkd 29/Apr/11 2nd
with karly54
Hidden 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/11 AltLd
THardSevere 06/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

awesome day out and a fine end to the trip in costa blanca. descent was longer and more challenging than we thought it would be

Liam Ingram 06/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom HS
jon clayton ?/Apr/11 AltLd
with luke dudill
Glyn 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Moved together 1hr 40 min

with Tom Skelhon
karly54 22/Feb/11 Lead dnf
Chris the Tall 05/Feb/11 AltLd

Done in approx 7 pitches, Dave leading first

with Dave Coley
RKernan 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with C Mann
JenDurden 05/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with Robin
jon clayton 05/Jan/11 Lead
with jason williams
Hidden 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Jo Davison 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Robin Head 05/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Jo Davison, Jen, Joe Premier
jcj ??/2011 -
with jon paul clayton
Hidden 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
JimBee ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

P1 M. P2 J. P3 M. Very easy to find, good short cut and excellent start to climbing EC.

with Matt Ellis
Hidden ?/Nov/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Seb31 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
KevB 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S

In parallel. Bolted belays.

with Student x2
Hidden 14/Apr/10 AltLd
j0shwyatt000 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
MDowson 14/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with josh wyatt
Richard Gilbert 04/Mar/10 AltLd

Awesome day. Sunny, v windy. Alex and Idoia followed us, followed by Huw with Tom and Mike. Paul and I started at 8am, topped out at 3pm waited 2 hours on top for others before getting cold and descending then waiting three more hours in the car for them. 10pm in the dark! Late beers and steak!

with Paul Padman
Hidden ?/Feb/10 -
Liam FLeming 03/Nov/09 Lead
with karen dalzell
Jeremy Wilton 09/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

As mentioned - did the direct start to the Espolon Central

with Ashley Stevens
steveadkinson 05/May/09 2nd
with Tim & Ryan
Hidden 05/May/09 2nd O/S
jacoob81 ?/May/09 2nd
dickie01 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Briggs
Hidden 14/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Stuart Macfarlane 26/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Did the 3 pitch direct start but did not complete rest of route, ended up abbing down into gully behind normal start.

with Jeanie
Hidden 25/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Lunar25 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Phil Marsh
Hidden 18/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 09/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/08 2nd
Joez 09/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Epic, benighted, decent in the dark - 14 hours fun was had :)

with Chris and Paul
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
gordon henderson 21/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Chris
crisaitken 21/Oct/08 AltLd
Mr Tickle 04/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Martyn Eales
jamie ward 04/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Robbie Smyth
Hidden 21/May/08 AltLd β
Ugly Kid Jo 21/May/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome! We didn't quite follow the route in the book and went nearer to the abseil points which meant we were in the shade for longer. We could tell when we were back on route when the rock got polished.

with Skinny
Martin Bennett 06/May/08 -
with SF
barni 29/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Paul James
Conan 23/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Great easy route.

with Chris Michalak
Hidden 23/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Glyn 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Jonny
will9911 ?/Mar/08 -

moved together up the whole thing easy for the grade

with greg
Nigel R Lewis 09/Feb/08 AltLd
with Tyrone saunders
Peter Metcalfe 27/Jan/08 AltLd
with Jenn Burt
Hidden 07/Nov/07 2nd O/S
jcurley 28/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

led 2nd

with Horace
JonHarvey 18/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Seems like a much better start compared to normal 3 pitches

Hidden 18/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
mjeffery ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead
alan.onslow ?/Mar/07 2nd
with Will, James
Tom Phillips 22/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

pretty easy for grade 5 - no harder than some of the upper pitches

with bruce
featuresforfeet 24/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with Angel
mr bounce ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Shona
Hidden 05/Apr/06 AltLd
Hidden 04/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
Bux ?/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Rob led odd pitches, i led even (i think?). Amazing day out. Including the run down the scree (sp?) slope

with Rob
shaun walby 17/Mar/04 2nd O/S
with Mark Edwards
shaun walby 17/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
SR1970 ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
lithos 05/Mar/03 AltLd O/S

great day out, next time do the extension

with Pete Evans
Simon Caldwell 05/Mar/03 AltLd O/S

C pitches 1,3,5,9 me pitches 2,4,6,7,8,10,11

with Carmen
dan gibson ?/Nov/02 Solo O/S
csalvage 04/Dec/00 AltLd

Did as start to Via Julia

with Bryan
rockjedi12345 ??/2000 Lead

route guided on whilst working for rowland edwards

stugreen75 ??/1998 AltLd O/S

Awesome long day out. So many that we lost count of the pitches!

with The Youth
Hidden ?/Nov/95 Lead
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