UKC

Rockfax Description
A good route with a difficult to protect lower section that feels hard for E4. Start just left of Slape Direct and pull left onto a crozzly ledge and a poor tiny cam in an overlap. Step left to the arete and make a desperate pull to reach the undercut flake. This move is extremely hard for the short. If you gain the flake, layback furiously up and left on good holds. At the top of the flake, move right and easier climbing soon arrives. Continue to the turret belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Alex Mason 18/Jul/17 Lead RP

Tried with george last week after a day on cloggy. Flopped off pulling into the crack. Scary, blind cams protect the crux. Very hard E4. F7a

Gus 10/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Spice!

Hidden ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
sev 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
JulesV 18/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 04/May/14 TR
Pete_Frost 23/Sep/13 TR dog

Climbed clean to the start of the crack, then dogged. The first half of the crack is nails. There is a small gorse bush which obstructs the handholds crucial to gaining the slab above - bring secateurs!

dan gibson 23/Jul/13 Lead RP

nearly onsighted this five years ago. Took several falls this time trying to unlock the crux.

with helen gibson
Hidden ??/2012 -
barni 03/Aug/11 Lead dog
with luke
Luke Brooks 03/May/11 Lead
with Liam
barni 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S

i'm better than this

with barni
Mike Goldthorp 28/May/10 Lead β

Ground up second go, ended up hittin the deck first time cos a micro wire ripped, but was fine. next time arranged gear before committing to the crack, awesome line!

with Ollie Cain, alex mason
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Richard Kirby
Rich Kirby 09/May/10 Lead O/S

Chuffed with this......took a bit of working out.

Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf
akhughes ??/2008 2nd
Ed Booth 30/Jul/06 Lead dog

Its all in the name

with will sim
Hidden 30/Jul/06 2nd dog
nicholas Barrowclough 18/Jun/04 Lead
nicholas Barrowclough 18/Jun/04 Lead
Ched ??/1998 TR
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
uphillnow ?/Aug/89 2nd
Chris Wright 28/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/87 2nd
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -
Mike Owen 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ?/Jun/84 Lead
Steve Lewis 06/May/84 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 6
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set