Rockfax Description
60m. The longest roof climb in the Peak and a fun introduction to aid climbing as it is fully bolted. From the back right corner of the cave, climb into a niche then follow the fixed gear across the undulating roof, even downhill in places until Thormen's is joined. Lower off at the lip. Great wet weather sport. Be aware that if you let your belay ropes dangle to the floor of the cave, people will walk all over them. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Dearman, K Bridges, Bob Toogood 1972. The first ascent was spread over three days though with all the gear in place the route can be done in a couple of hours. FFA. Dream on!

Ticklists: Aid climbing, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

ned_85 10/Sep/17 -
Rockley 10/Sep/17 -
routrax 10/Sep/17 AltLd dnf

Gonna go back for this one, aiding is harder than I thought!

with Dan
danjouan 10/Sep/17 AltLd dnf

Returned having bought more kit to confuse ourselves with and watched a few more YouTube videos we were basically aid climbing gods..... until we got in a new and amusing pickle in the same place as the previous day. Made up our own line up another row of bolts and finished at the lower off. Hugely entertaining silliness.

with Steve
routrax 09/Sep/17 Lead dnf
with Dan
danjouan 09/Sep/17 AltLd dnf

Tried teaching ourselves to aid climb.... turns out it's hard work. Got to the vicinity of the first belay, got in a very confusing knot then ran away bravely to buy expensive kit we didn't know how to use and watch YouTube videos on aid climbing.

with Steve
Hidden 27/May/17 Lead rpt
poeter210 27/May/17 2nd rpt
poeter210 27/May/17 Lead rpt

About 3 hours, short fixed after the niche

Hidden 27/May/17 2nd rpt
poeter210 01/Apr/17 AltLd
Hidden 01/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 25/Feb/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 25/Feb/17 Lead

4h from starting to both on the ground. It's definitely not 60m Wrongfax. I should have belayed from the ground and spared all the pain in my lower half.

bclifton 30/Oct/16 Lead
Andrew Barker 03/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Glad to have chunky aiders and a belay seat!

with Chris M
Hidden 03/Sep/16 AltLd
EeFu 09/Jul/16 AltLd
LovelyMrTom 09/Jul/16 AltLd β

Completed the route this time! Only took 8h45, finishing at 10pm so it was a liquid dinner in the pub straight after! Split into 3 pitches and lowered off to belay from the ground after each which probably didn't help out time! Some very long reaches and generally just hard work!

EeFu 18/Jun/16 Lead

P1 only

LovelyMrTom 18/Jun/16 2nd dnf

First shot at aid climbing. Might have been easier if the etriers were packed! EeFu lead to the first lower off and fixed ropes for some jumaring practice.

Jake Young 30/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

first ever aid experience, good laugh and pretty rediculous. the cave is very cool. the bolts are quite spaced probably ought to work on my aiding technique either way the day will be remebered. top tip one foot in one etrier and one foot in the other allows a good steady triangular stance if you need to have a wee.

Hidden 30/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/16 AltLd
jimmysdead 09/Jan/16 Lead β

What an epic. Next time I'll be using fifi hooks!

with Blake
Ian Clare ?/Oct/15 Lead
Binder 08/Nov/14 AltLd dnf

Entertaining introduction to aid! Pretty slow and wet.

with Tom L
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd dnf
John Higgs 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Got to the first lower off and ran out of time. We'll be back.

with Jon Stear, Ian Atkins
Scott Anderson 04/May/14 Lead O/S

First aid climb. Being a roof found it very strenuous, and at points whilst doing the leading and cleaning it felt hard. On lead there are few big steps and pulls, and a fairly technical rope crux. I really ache now!

with Dave
jon_gill1 06/Dec/13 AltLd β

Finally we completed the challenge of doing the route in the dark after work. 6.5 hours finishing at 4am to celebrate with a bottle of very cold ale on the floor of the cave!now its done I won't be rushing back!

jon_gill1 20/Nov/13 AltLd dnf

managed to get to the second belay at 1.30am but decided we needed some kip before work so went be completed.

with chris Lyness
Moritz L 02/Nov/13 Lead O/S

First aid route for both of us with some home made etriers. Really enjoyed it, Dave not so much. Just over 4 hrs.

David Kay 02/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Yes, didn't enjoy it quite as much at the time due to difficulties with releasing tension from one sling to the other when traversing, but in retrospect it was good fun and a fine adventure for a rainy day. Won't be repeating the route any time soon though...

jon_gill1 30/Oct/13 Lead dnf

we went up after work to try it out and all led to the first chains.looking forward to doing the whole route!

with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
esther ?/Aug/12 Lead
Jim Slater 01/Jan/12 AltLd
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 07/Nov/11 -
NeilGriffiths 28/Oct/11 Lead

Good company. Good mucky messing, Two pitches and lots of spectators; and a dog.

with Dom, Adam
A Crook 28/Oct/11 2nd O/S

quality day out. Swinging around with plenty of spectators. Bonus fininshed before it was dark! Found that there were 2 big reaches to retrive gear, wish I had a sky hook for them. completed in 6hrs ish brilliant

Bry 17/Sep/11 2nd dog
with Jen
tskelhon 05/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Good banter. Gear is sound as you like, none of the bolts blew! Best served with a Bombay Bad Boy Pot noodle!

Hidden 12/Jun/11 -
Jonathan Hall 11/Jun/11 Lead

First aid climb, found it pretty physical although it got easier as I got going. The other pair finished at 11pm!

disturbed_one51 11/Jun/11 AltLd

This Aid climbing malarky is knackering. It took us hours and we finally finished in the dark at 11pm. Interesting experience to say the least.

JRigby ?/Jun/11 AltLd
andrusht84 07/May/11 -
with gary binns
rikbattye 23/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Bradbury 20/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Dark, cold, dangling. Am I glad I did it. Seconded last two pitches after Jools had given up and Paul had done the first. Probably up there from about 3pm until 10:30pm. Graeme was up there from about 12:30pm!

Graeme Hammond 20/Mar/10 Lead

ACE :D Though bit of a epic to say the least, getting lost mid roof and then reverse aiding back to do the exact correct line in the centre of the roof and then finishing way after dark, but a good experience on a wet day!

Hidden 16/Jan/10 2nd dnf
RM199 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
howlingbaboon 28/Nov/09 Solo RP
Harry Thorpe 23/Jul/09 2nd dnf

Spent 10 hours on this route, what an epic!

with Phil, Em
bridget143 16/May/09 Lead dnf

Got to the first ab point and bailed - my abs were pumped! Great fun on a wet day, hilarious random guys turned up, skinned up and played tuns in. Boney M, The Specials and The Doors....

with Mike Pike
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 25/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Dom
Somerset swede basher 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Wicks
riddle 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Awesome route, first climbing aid route!

Hidden 17/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
general 12/Aug/07 -

with Rampant
feilx ??/2005 -
with Ian Lovatt
frost ?/Oct/97 Solo

with a back rope

Stoney Boy ?/Jan/97 AltLd
with Bob Marks
Hidden 06/Nov/96 AltLd
phardman 23/Mar/96 AltLd

Very old bolts!

with Mark Incles
nai ??/1992 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Pom
Ian McNeill ??/1991 -
FATBOYFAT ??/1991 2nd O/S

Done overnight in winter after leaving Nottingham at closing time. Climbing was mostly on bootlaces and rust. I have never felt so utterly knackered ...

with Ivan Holroyd
Hidden 17/Feb/90 AltLd
rogerskews ??/1987 -


with Steve Walker
mark-abz 26/Dec/86 2nd
with Andy W
ukb & bmc shark ?/Mar/85 2nd
with Phill Dickens
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 Lead

Not A1 in 1985! At least A3 because of the poor condition of the gear.

Mark Kemball 26/Nov/83 Lead
with Martin Askey
charlesmfrench 03/Sep/83 AltLd O/S


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