750m, 14 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Despite being of comparable length to the Fedele route, this climb is considerably less sustained and thus an easier proposition. This unfortunately makes the climbing somewhat discontinuous but does allow quicker progress to be made on what is undoubtedly a huge route.
Start by a large boulder below a gully, on the right side of a short spur.
1) III, 45m. Climb direct up an easy gully.
2) III, 35m. Continue in the same line to a spike belay.
3) III, 50m. Descend left onto a ledge and follow this to enter a steep gully. Climb this direct then move right to a stance on a ridge.
4) III, 45m. Descend a couple of metres then traverse easily left, passing under a yellow niche to a stance below a ramp.
5) III, 45m. Climb the ramp, trending slightly left, keeping left of a niche to exit onto a vegetated ledge.
6) II, 40m. Continue direct over ledges and ramps to a stance below another niche.
7) II, 45m. Exit left from the niche and climb direct upwards easily, before following a ramp back right to a stance below a larger niche.
8) III, 50m. Move left from the niche and climb direct to reach a large scree ledge. Belay on a chockstone above a scree gully.
9) III, 20m. Climb a chimney above to a stance below a corner.
10) IV-, 50m. Climb the corner until moves left lead out to a good stance.
11) IV-, 45m. Continue in the same line then, at a ledge, cut back right over a black slab, making a rising traverse below large yellow roofs. Belay just before the right edge of these.
12) III+, 50m. Continue the traverse to beyond the right edge of the roof then climb direct before easier moves lead left.
13) I, 45m. Continue easily up the spur ahead to the right edge of the dark streaks.
14) III+, 50m. Cut diagonally up and left, crossing the streaked rock, to reach a good ledge.
15) III, 50m. Step left on the ledge to a crack and climb this direct to reach a chimney. Follow this left and exit onto easier ground just below the large ledge. Continue easily to reach the terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
West Face.

Dibona, Rizzi, Mayer 1910

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Alaister 11 Sep, 2018 AltLd Simual climbed the first 5 pitches in good time. After getting of route about 3 times and absailing twice finaly topped out in just under 14 hrs. Not quite as fast as the entry below ;)
with Alex C
Simual climbed the first 5 pitches in good time. After getting of route about 3 times and absailing twice finaly topped out in just under 14 hrs. Not quite as fast as the entry below ;)
with Alex C
Matt Amos 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S We simul climbed in just over 2 hours. Excellent exposure
We simul climbed in just over 2 hours. Excellent exposure
Hidden 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
CameronH 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf
Octavian 24 Aug, 2017 Lead
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
Oliver Smaje ?Sep, 2016 2nd simul-climbed
with Rob Taylor
simul-climbed
with Rob Taylor
Roberttaylor ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Simul-climbed throughout. 3.5 hours to the terrace, with a stop for food.
Simul-climbed throughout. 3.5 hours to the terrace, with a stop for food.
PPP 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Hidden
with Hidden
Hidden 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
tcn_2002 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd
jameslam ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
stf ??, 2014 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 31 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
High III+
Mid III+
Low III+
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set