Rockfax Description
An very popular route up the arete and north face of Torre Lusy. Good rock and plentiful fixed gear lead to a lovely little summit, with an exciting hanging abseil down the other side. Worth a queue or two...
Start to the right of a cave at the left side of Torre Lusy.
1) IV-, 25m. Climb direct, aiming for a niche above. Move left around the niche and climb towards the arete Move back right to a stance below a sloping corner.
2) III, 25m. Climb rightwards up the corner then move back left up a ramp to the arete Continue just left of the arete to a stance on the edge.
3) III+, 20m. Climb a slab left of the arete for 10m then move back right until crossing the arete again to a stance just on the right side.
4) IV-, 25m. Keeping on the right of the arete , make a rising traverse right on good holds then as you near the right edge, climb direct for a few metres before moving back left to a stance on the left arete.
5) IV-, 20m. Climb direct on the arete to a good stance.
6) III, 15m. Follow a ledge left, then climb a short wall direct to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A six pitch trad route that is well eqiped with fixed gear - Fr3+, Fr3, Fr3+, Fr4, Fr3, Fr2. It takes the obvious line of least resistance & polish up the slabby north side of the tower. Highly recommended!
Abseil ring / hooks can be found to the west via a little chimney and a quick free hanging 40m decent to base.

Hidden 18/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/17 2nd
betathief 08/Sep/17 AltLd
Andre Clarke 07/Sep/17 AltLd
JimOakleyAdventures 05/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

4hrs from start to bottom of abseil 20 mins walk in and out 6 hrs total car to car

with Andre CL
TheSingularity 28/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
with Emma
Rooney90 28/Aug/17 AltLd
Smithy90 28/Aug/17 2nd
johnE 18/Aug/17 AltLd G/U

The first few moves are very polished, then what follows is a excellent route. It looks impressive from the frontAn impressive abseil to finish with

with Les
Hidden 15/Aug/17 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Emanuele Dal Bianco
rockafunked 31/Jul/17 AltLd
wilf 10/Jul/17 Lead O/S

sound climb with typical 5t abseil

with nick f
featuresforfeet 09/Jul/17 AltLd
beardy mike ??/2017 -
Andre Clarke ??/2017 -
Charlie680 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
zeitoun 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Superbe crag with beautiful historical routes. Slightly polished rock! Spectacular 50m free hanging abseil.

with Hubert N.
TheSingularity 13/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Amy121 12/Sep/16 AltLd

1st, 3rd, 5th pitch

Rooney90 12/Sep/16 -
mikestr555 12/Sep/16 AltLd
Moritz L 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Dan0Me 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Tmgreenfield ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Alex, Mark, Jenny
mikehenesy 24/Aug/16 AltLd
with Willy
Buccaneerbilly 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


alex_dickinson 22/Aug/16 2nd
with Hog Dog
Hog Dog 22/Aug/16 Lead O/S
GDS 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with rob
Hotcake ?/Aug/16 Lead

MP - 2 seconds

WLNesfield ?/Aug/16 Lead
with 2 students
rgd1977 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Gibbs3799 20/Jul/16 Lead

Guiding two novices on their fist multi pitch

Oo 19/Jul/16 AltLd
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Toby D
MoWalker3 18/Jul/16 -
with Dan
Nono 08/Jul/16 2nd
fuzzysheep01 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S

3 long pitches. Used in situ gear almost entirely. Nice but slightly polished route.

with Nono
Hidden 10/Dec/15 AltLd
masa-alpin 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Pat-H ?/Sep/15 AltLd
with Masa
kirky_p 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
gringo1804 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

With Chris Beeks. His first multi-pitch climb. Very cold!

Steve Lenartowicz 31/Aug/15 Lead
with Clare
Steve Shorrock 30/Aug/15 AltLd
katiet 30/Aug/15 AltLd
andyclimber 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches

Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Warner 22/Aug/15 AltLd
with Tom
Mike W ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Warner 27/Jul/15 AltLd
with Tom
cayteye 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

nice easy romp

with Peri
Hidden 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
philmitch 01/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
winged_traveller ?/Jul/15 -
HP9 11/Jun/15 Lead

polished start. Couldnt find any pro on first part of pitch 4 . Nice ab

with Annika Sivlerberg
Hidden 08/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/14 -
tcn_2002 08/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Tarquin 04/Sep/13 Lead
fishjh2 04/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Marq 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with leeds james
Roger Cruse 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Kris
Tarquin 05/Aug/13 -
with Louise
Louvet 05/Aug/13 -
with Tarquin
moviti ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

In 4 pitches, very interesting root finding. 1st pitch condition was polished.

with Norico
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
thetradlad 29/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Totally rad dude

Stepanek 29/Jul/13 AltLd
Fiona Reid 17/Jul/13 AltLd

Done in 4 pitches, guidebook describes it as 5 pitches, led 1 & 2 combined and pitch 4. Totally wild 40m free hanging abseil!

with Mike
Mike-W-99 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Fiona
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
ClimberJimmyB 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Keendan 19/Aug/12 Solo O/S

Went left at the top into a committing crack, about HS

Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead
Jamescdykes 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

7 Pitches with 40m Abseil

with Robert Gillman
Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
johnpuddephatt 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 24/Jul/12 -

Abseil was the highlight!

Sankey 10/Jul/12 AltLd

Very close lightening strike while on summit, took a soaking on the abb off, roped appeared jammed for a while, but was able to free after storm passed. All good fun!

with Jon
jshields 10/Jul/12 AltLd
John Nuttall 05/Jul/12 Lead
with Sharon
tcn_2002 05/Oct/11 Lead
onlyfoddington 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Took a direct route (away from the bolts) on the third pitch

ScottyD 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
rch3l ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead
Peter Metcalfe 22/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
IanMcC 12/Jul/11 AltLd

Very easy, very good. Climbed in 3 pitches.

with Scott Bamford, SimonN
SimonN 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Scott, Ian McCabe
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Tarquin 21/Jun/10 Lead
EmileCilliers 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
John HW 21/Jun/10 Lead
with 2 x Students
uphillnow ??/2010 -
with Stuart Holmes
Hidden 02/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Marq 01/Sep/09 AltLd O/S


rd20 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

RD P1 and 4

with Gareth H, Jayne
GarethHall 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 3 and 5

with Jayne Jackson, Robert Dufton
ratm 20/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Matt Forshaw
MartF 20/Jul/09 2nd
with Ben Crook, Matt
Ewan Russell 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3 and 5. Abseil off was amazing!

andybuckley ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Jo Kirkbride
Selbatron 11/Aug/08 2nd O/S
tallsop ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Protheroe ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Kyle Mosley
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andy Clarke 02/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Led Ps 1,3,5.

with MikeW, James
cpoad 19/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Clare F
Stuart Macfarlane 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Anne-Marie
AndyP 06/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Got lost and climbed direct variations on the 2nd and 3rd pitches at about VS 4c. Decent route.

with Jamie
Jamie Simpson 06/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Good route and well grades, Felt like VS 4c as we went a bit direct.

with Andy porter
MikeDowsett 24/Jun/06 Lead

Getting off caused a problem as we had only taken one rope. Better learn a bit more Italian. Had to abseil the route. Fortunately nobody was coming up.

with Kris Scheinkonig
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
victim of mathematics 16/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 16/Jul/02 AltLd
with scouse pete
JamieAyres ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Jude Ayres
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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set