110m, 3 pitches.
This climbs the tongue of rock a couple of hundred meters left of the south ridge (see photo). A good first pitch leads to easier climbing and then a slightly disappointing arete above.
1. 30m 4a. Begin just right of the centre of the rock tongue by a small rib. Follow the rib delicately to a ledge and gear at 5m. Head upwards past large flakes to an overlap, step right and continue up to belay on a big grassy ledge.
2. 20m. From the belay climb large blocks then the wall above, continue upwards to the flat top of the rock tongue and belay.
3. 60m. Scramble easily up the vague arete over short walls to the summit.
1. 30m 4a. Begin just right of the centre of the rock tongue by a small rib. Follow the rib delicately to a ledge and gear at 5m. Head upwards past large flakes to an overlap, step right and continue up to belay on a big grassy ledge.
2. 20m. From the belay climb large blocks then the wall above, continue upwards to the flat top of the rock tongue and belay.
3. 60m. Scramble easily up the vague arete over short walls to the summit.
Tom Green, Martin Green 20/Jun/2012.
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Route of Interest
Conwy Corner
Grade: S ***
(Clogwyn Cyrau)