160m.

Rockfax Description
A line up the grey buttress that forms the right-hand side of the face. It is the most popular of the longer routes.
1) 5. Climb to the base of a big tapering chimney.
2) 6a. Move right onto the arête (lower-off) then up to a steep bulge. A tricky pull gains the belay on the right.
3) 6a+ A steep rising traverse leads left then head straight up the wall to easier ground.
4) 5+. The final pitch is very pleasant.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

FA. P.Hernández, T.Pastor 1998

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Jeeedeee 5 Jan, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route and great rock! Easy start, second 6a has a quite hard move, the 6a+ has some small finger holds. Last 5+ still quite hard. Great adventure and view at top. Unfortunately, for the first abseil(from top) is something like 38 meters. So with a 70 m rope, like we ended up at the first bolt of the last pitch and we had to climb back down to the belay. Luckily we did not forgot a knot in the end of the rope!!! So use a 80 m rope, or 2x50/60. Heard from some English guys there is also another abseil further to the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route and great rock! Easy start, second 6a has a quite hard move, the 6a+ has some small finger holds. Last 5+ still quite hard. Great adventure and view at top. Unfortunately, for the first abseil(from top) is something like 38 meters. So with a 70 m rope, like we ended up at the first bolt of the last pitch and we had to climb back down to the belay. Luckily we did not forgot a knot in the end of the rope!!! So use a 80 m rope, or 2x50/60. Heard from some English guys there is also another abseil further to the right.
john yates 16 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Brian. Three pitches not four. First belay wrongly illustrated in the picture. It is actually down and to the left in the cave. Next pitch is steep and has some loose rock but is good climbing with care. There are now several very good looking single pitch routes to the left of this route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Brian. Three pitches not four. First belay wrongly illustrated in the picture. It is actually down and to the left in the cave. Next pitch is steep and has some loose rock but is good climbing with care. There are now several very good looking single pitch routes to the left of this route.
colin7298 27 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: we did this route last week.It starts at its name plate which is more left than the picture shows.The bolts are black for first pitch ,then turn to green.The rock on pitch two was a bit loose and conglomerate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: we did this route last week.It starts at its name plate which is more left than the picture shows.The bolts are black for first pitch ,then turn to green.The rock on pitch two was a bit loose and conglomerate.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 18 Jan Lead O/S
Hubert Feret 30 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S
with Kama
with Kama
petecallaghan 15 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 15 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
dmorgan27 18 Oct, 2018 AltLd Great route. Fabulous sustained climbing.
Great route. Fabulous sustained climbing.
gingernick 18 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Neverathome 8 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Jim Althans
with Jim Althans
Swotson 7 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S P1 only - grade 5
with Ian Athroll
P1 only - grade 5
with Ian Athroll
Jessicacrump 21 Jan, 2018 AltLd
betathief 21 Jan, 2018 AltLd
metrorat 14 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S Nice climbing but grades in Rockfax are slightly different to what we found. P1, nice but short slab, 5. P2 easy but with a steep punchy crux, prob 6a+ when the holds aren’t full of mud and dust (which they were). P3/4 both of a muchness, sustained spiky slabs at 6a. All the routes at this crag have nameplates with grades on. Some seem bizarre and differ wildly from those given in the rockfax guide so take both with a pinch of salt. We just came to do a couple of multipitches but there’s some quality looking single pitch routes here too, 70 or 80m rope advisable.
with Amy Wight
Nice climbing but grades in Rockfax are slightly different to what we found. P1, nice but short slab, 5. P2 easy but with a steep punchy crux, prob 6a+ when the holds aren’t full of mud and dust (which they were). P3/4 both of a muchness, sustained spiky slabs at 6a. All the routes at this crag have nameplates with grades on. Some seem bizarre and differ wildly from those given in the rockfax guide so take both with a pinch of salt. We just came to do a couple of multipitches but there’s some quality looking single pitch routes here too, 70 or 80m rope advisable.
with Amy Wight
Hidden 7 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
David@Sheffield ?Jan, 2018 - CAUTION! If others are climbing below on the single pitch routes do not abseil route (lots of loose stones) but follow arrows rightwards to make one abseil down Espolon PDP followed by scramble (wire in place) to path back to base of crag.
CAUTION! If others are climbing below on the single pitch routes do not abseil route (lots of loose stones) but follow arrows rightwards to make one abseil down Espolon PDP followed by scramble (wire in place) to path back to base of crag.
Hidden ?Dec, 2016 Lead
Hidden ?Dec, 2016 Lead
Hidden ?Dec, 2016 Lead
BushwackerBritz ?Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Thom Wright
with Thom Wright
jamie ward 28 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 -5 , No belay on pitch 2 so Marcus ran together as one long one, more like sustained 6a, top pitch 5+ my arse, more like sustained 6a.
with Marcus Harvey
Pitch 1 -5 , No belay on pitch 2 so Marcus ran together as one long one, more like sustained 6a, top pitch 5+ my arse, more like sustained 6a.
with Marcus Harvey
dicky79 20 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 28 Jan, 2015 AltLd
jogh 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd
with vinni
with vinni
vinni 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S loved it, quite a nerveous moment on the traverse. Bring a long enough rope, route is slightly longer than indicated in the guidebook.
with jogh
loved it, quite a nerveous moment on the traverse. Bring a long enough rope, route is slightly longer than indicated in the guidebook.
with jogh
Tom Phillips 1 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Leofallon 1 Mar, 2013 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28 Mar, 2011 AltLd
with Paul Cox
with Paul Cox
gjd 14 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S I lead pitches 2 and 4. The local guide shows the first pitch as 10 metres at F4. The Rockfax version makes more sense, goes through the cave rather than the line on the topo.
with Joe
I lead pitches 2 and 4. The local guide shows the first pitch as 10 metres at F4. The Rockfax version makes more sense, goes through the cave rather than the line on the topo.
with Joe
Hidden 5 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set