UKC

160m.

Rockfax Description
A line up the grey buttress that forms the right-hand side of the face. It is the most popular of the longer routes.
1) 5. Climb to the base of a big tapering chimney.
2) 6a. Move right onto the arête (lower-off) then up to a steep bulge. A tricky pull gains the belay on the right.
3) 6a+ A steep rising traverse leads left then head straight up the wall to easier ground.
4) 5+. The final pitch is very pleasant.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

FA. P.Hern?ndez, T.Pastor 1998.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50

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User Date Notes
garybarwick 15 Dec, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Led the last 3 pitches. I missed the belay at the end of p2 so ran the 6a and 6a+ pitches together - and only just made the belay on 50m ropes!! 6a+ probably fair but the top pitch felt harder than 5c. Abseiled off in 3 sections.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Led the last 3 pitches. I missed the belay at the end of p2 so ran the 6a and 6a+ pitches together - and only just made the belay on 50m ropes!! 6a+ probably fair but the top pitch felt harder than 5c. Abseiled off in 3 sections.
goddamm7 26 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m
goddamm7 26 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well that’s an outing Pitch 2 has a sting in the tail Pitch 3 felt 6b Pitch 4 at least 6a And the abseil from the last pitch is requiring 80m rope we fell short on a70m
Jeeedeee 5 Jan, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route and great rock! Easy start, second 6a has a quite hard move, the 6a+ has some small finger holds. Last 5+ still quite hard. Great adventure and view at top. Unfortunately, for the first abseil(from top) is something like 38 meters. So with a 70 m rope, like we ended up at the first bolt of the last pitch and we had to climb back down to the belay. Luckily we did not forgot a knot in the end of the rope!!! So use a 80 m rope, or 2x50/60. Heard from some English guys there is also another abseil further to the right.
Show beta
βeta: Nice route and great rock! Easy start, second 6a has a quite hard move, the 6a+ has some small finger holds. Last 5+ still quite hard. Great adventure and view at top. Unfortunately, for the first abseil(from top) is something like 38 meters. So with a 70 m rope, like we ended up at the first bolt of the last pitch and we had to climb back down to the belay. Luckily we did not forgot a knot in the end of the rope!!! So use a 80 m rope, or 2x50/60. Heard from some English guys there is also another abseil further to the right.
john yates 16 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Brian. Three pitches not four. First belay wrongly illustrated in the picture. It is actually down and to the left in the cave. Next pitch is steep and has some loose rock but is good climbing with care. There are now several very good looking single pitch routes to the left of this route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Brian. Three pitches not four. First belay wrongly illustrated in the picture. It is actually down and to the left in the cave. Next pitch is steep and has some loose rock but is good climbing with care. There are now several very good looking single pitch routes to the left of this route.
colin7298 27 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: we did this route last week.It starts at its name plate which is more left than the picture shows.The bolts are black for first pitch ,then turn to green.The rock on pitch two was a bit loose and conglomerate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: we did this route last week.It starts at its name plate which is more left than the picture shows.The bolts are black for first pitch ,then turn to green.The rock on pitch two was a bit loose and conglomerate.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
La conejo

Grade: 6a+ ***
(El Berro )

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