No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 17/Mar AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 05/Jan AltLd

Quite a challenging first 10m in lean conditions and lovely climbing above.

Elastic Jones 05/Jan AltLd O/S

Hard crux for Steven...

with Steven Andrews
seanhendo123 04/Jan AltLd O/S

Felt pretty sluggish on the walk in, I got first lead and felt even worse once climbing, a lot of swearing and grovelling got me up the crux then the rest was easy, zero points for style! Good line but not great climbing over all

with Lamb
Lamb 04/Jan AltLd

Frozen at belay and rock seriously verglassed, stupidly slipped off verglassed flake at bottom, landed back on feet at belay. Not the best route, decent line I guess though. Salvaged a day though.

nickdonohue 02/Mar/16 AltLd

Good climbing, but a harsh tough day with maelstrom conditions on the face and very cold. Fortunately hardly any wind once topped out and a night-nav back.

with Tom Lawfield
Hidden 18/Feb/16 AltLd
stub1990 06/Feb/16 -
with Adam Gregg
Adamski1986 06/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Good route!

Smith42 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with Lindsay Yule
mountain musher ??/2016 -
hamish2016 13/Dec/15 AltLd
with Tom Ripley
Robertgiddy 12/Dec/15 Lead

Traversed off after the hard first pitch due to fading daylight. The pitch is quite pumpy but has good positive hooks.

liamando 12/Dec/15 2nd O/S

Cracking route! Pump those arms! If you have a friend who boulders and you wanna introduce him to winter this is the route, Not much for feet! Traversed after crux pitch as the sun was sleepy. Nice team bonding exercise moving together on dodgy terrain though.

Andrew Sloan 11/Dec/15 Lead O/S

A late start after travelling up from Cheshire. I led 1st pitch which I thought was nails in the lean conditions, felt more like V,6. Steve came up second on a very tight rope. Abbed off due to impending darkness.

with Steve Grove
CaelanB 21/Nov/15 2nd

First route of the season, the route was in perfect conditions. I can't imagine the weather being much better than it was!

with paul blamire, Joe Barlow
Pina 14/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

One of the few routes in nick.

Brian Pollock 14/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Good first route of the season

with Joe
rob16 11/Feb/15 AltLd
with Matt Brook
joe.91 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome, such fun climbing at the start! Interesting finish to the route...

robpartridge 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Harry Wickham
Little AndyH 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jan/15 AltLd
Steven Carter ??/2015 AltLd O/S
prwalker 29/Dec/14 AltLd

Excellent conditions, cold, clear and sunny. Led a tricky first pitch, with crux and chimney, well frozen turf further up where it widened out. Second and third pitches led by Rob, including a run out section at the top to a powdery cornice. Great views across a windy plateau. Triggered a small slab release from wind-blown build up on the western descent back to the lochan - lucky is wasn't worse and a timely reminder to be mindful of changing conditions throughout the day.

with wupert
Hidden 29/Dec/14 AltLd
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
AidanMorris 07/Dec/13 AltLd
robgixer ?/Dec/13 AltLd
oliverk 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Zoe
BillyBurnside1 09/Nov/13 AltLd
mikecollins 09/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Bailed after pitch 1 - conditions were bad and unsuitable.

manmike 09/Mar/13 -

pitch 2 covered in powder masking rotten ice

jonnie3430 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Steep and hard start, followed by a powder swim and lots of pulling up onto powdery ledges. I think Carol enjoyed herself leading her first cornice...

with Will, Carol
Carol Goodall 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Great climb with a steep start and interesting steps all the way up. Was very snowy so glad to be on second most of the way but tackled a tunnel-like cornice to finish off.

with Will Taylor, Jonnie Williams
PAJames 13/Jan/13 -

http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/13-01-13-coire-lochain-cairngorms.html

alasdair19 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Captain Solo 11/Dec/12 AltLd

Struggled a bit on the initial crack but got there in the end. Some useful ice on 2nd pitch but gear hard to find, easy neve romp to finish. Great top out with the setting sun.

with Barry
Rich A 19/Nov/12 AltLd
annep 03/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
guy757 03/Nov/12 -
BallsOfSteel 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
connor 05/Feb/12 AltLd β

closer to IV 6 than tech 5 on the day. crux very aqward and pretty pummpy

with willey
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd
SWalls 29/Jan/12 AltLd
with Sinclair Cooper
Brannock 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S

with greg, more sustained than the guide book suggests, crux definitely first pitch bit next two had there moments pulling over bulges, scary steep snow at the top. Busy day in Lachain as well, teams on virtually all the classic grade 6/7 mixed routes and even a film crew.

steev 27/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
andybuckley 27/Jan/12 AltLd

Cool route. First couple of bulges pretty hard, then easier above. The final line of The Crack in the headwall looks like it'd make an awesome finale for those capable of it.

with Steve Crawford
Hidden 26/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Edvin m 26/Jan/12 Lead O/S
sneaks 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with janey
Hidden 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
geoff.comley 15/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, bit rushed due to it being second route of the day, climbed second pitch through cornice in dark, very atmospheric! :/ Nice first pitch though.

Andrew Wilson 03/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

P1 then mark led to below the cornice where i climbed through to top. Tony full of cold so stayed on second.

with Mark Schmude, Tony Womersley
Brucemacrosson 27/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route in v. good night. Simon put in a blinder of a lead on the 1st pitch.

with Simon Opit
John Workman 06/Feb/11 Lead

Soooperb nick. Three stars on the day.

with Chris D
Mr Powly 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
tom.e 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Pete Graham 30/Jan/11 AltLd
with Tom Powell, Tom Everett
Big Lee 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

White-out made it difficult to find the crag. Somehow zigzagged underneath them all and summited onto the plateau to the West. We then followed the summit ridge back to the Couloir and descended this to eventually find our route. Quality route in good condition. Led 2nd & 4th pitches. Enough gear placements where required on the first pitch but virtually none after that. Climbing was steady enough from this point onwards however.

Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
jonnybull ?/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Sam
Timo Austino ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd
andymoin 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with Warren, American Scot
Hidden 29/Mar/10 AltLd rpt
michael83 29/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Ian Jones 09/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Definitely at least V in the conditions. A lot of snow and not all of it was that secure. Pitch 1 awkward and a bit sketchy. Pitch 2 at least 4 with a fall factor of 2 a distinct possibility, therefore V. Pitch 3 mostly II with nay gear but a V 4 through the cornice. Great finish in the dark. Great leads from Jason and Dan.

with Dan Moore, jazzyjackson, Jason Moffat
Hidden 09/Mar/10 AltLd
jazzyjackson 09/Mar/10 AltLd

Headtorch finish and borderline epic.

with Dan, Ian Jones
abbeywall 13/Dec/09 AltLd

led 2

with K, FM
jameshiggins 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Awkward start which wasn't holding much ice. Otherwise a beautiful day and perfect conditions.

with Hebe
Greg Boswell 08/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/09 AltLd
Hidden 07/Mar/09 2nd β
Hidden 26/Jan/09 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jan/09 AltLd dnf
timmy-ts ??/2009 -
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
simon_D 13/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Guidebook lies, the 2nd pitch is hard enough and has an interesting/head scratcher step up to the big wall! Good mixed route.

with Roger C
nakedave 06/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/08 AltLd
maxots 02/Nov/08 2nd dnf

Did the first three pitches got dark and abseiled off. A rather hard introduction to scottish winter climbing. Need to consolidate at II/III then work back up to this grade and be able to lead at this level!

with Helena EUMC
Neil D ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden 21/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
AndyP 02/Dec/07 AltLd dog

I pulled on gear - twice! I should grade this route IV,5 A2. Lack of fitness and first route of the season, plus the difficulties being getting off the ground and therefore with big decking potential, led to me holding gear. Didn't use my tools until the second hard section. Not much snow build up, deeper snow would make the route easier. Decent weather but snow not frozen, corrie full of folk. Pitch 3 had two awkward steps, tech. 5, that are not in the guide so I suspect we were off route. Late finish.

with Will
Hidden 02/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
simonw1 18/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Nick and Steve
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
mikecopp 18/Dec/06 AltLd
with Alex M
Dangerous Dave 08/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Neil Batchelor,Time Rose
oor wullie 08/Dec/06 AltLd

Last climb with neil. We won't forget you.

with Dave Cowan and Neil Batchelor
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 27/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
tompercy 01/Feb/03 AltLd
Hidden 01/Feb/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/03 -
Hidden ?/Feb/02 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jan/02 AltLd
with Barry ?
Dave Kerr 23/Dec/01 Sent
with Steve Wells
tompercy ?/Feb/00 AltLd
with Martin Jackson
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Richard Weller 13/Dec/99 -
with Nick Cruden
Andy Clark 18/Oct/98 2nd
with Burnsie
Hidden 18/Oct/98 Lead O/S
CMacD ??/1995 -
pingora 23/Nov/93 Lead O/S
jlury 15/Jan/92 2nd

Melting and wet. Fell off.... in old guidebook this was grade III. flippin eck it was desperate. glad to see it is now IV 5/6.

with Wolfgang Klein
Yourlead 27/Mar/90 2nd
with Graham Penny
Hidden ??/1989 -
mark-abz 17/Feb/88 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Hidden ??/1987 -
rob from scotland ??/1987 -
Hidden 23/Nov/86 AltLd
Bob 28/Dec/82 AltLd O/S

my second winter route in Scotland. Was given grade III at the time.

with D. Geere
Derek Ryden 19/Mar/75 Lead dog

Peg for aid on the first pitch. Spindrift pouring down face. Exit cornice 20 feet of vertical mush - desperate!

with George Backshall
26 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 28
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set