UKC

SMC Description
90m. This route follows the left edge of the buttress overlooking The Couloir. Start just inside the narrow part of The Couloir. Climb steep broken ground to a saddle. The face above and right is cut by an open gully; reaching this provides a short but sharp crux which is technical 5 under powder. Above, the climbing becomes straightforward and leads to the top at the same point as The Couloir. © SMC

Ticklists: In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 13/Apr AltLd
Cheeks 25/Feb AltLd O/S

Great conditions, Nice route, with a short tech pitch.

with Andy Bond
gregor 16/Feb -
tmwltn 16/Feb 2nd

Well covered in snow, some consolidated but also a fair bit of powder. Lost a crampon half way up so drop me a message if you find it!

with Gregor Imrie
gripped01 04/Feb 2nd
with Kev Oliver, andybrown114
kevoliver 04/Feb Lead
with Andrew Brown
Hidden 04/Feb 2nd
7toes 13/Jan 2nd

Zoe boshed up it in a single pitch from the Couloir

with Zoe
nickcj 11/Jan AltLd
Hidden 07/Jan AltLd
Hidden 04/Jan AltLd
Hidden ??/2018 -
HimTiggins 29/Dec/17 Lead O/S
Stuart the postie 03/Dec/17 AltLd

Second route, climbed up crest (Rear Entry)

with Ian Dempster
HaleAlex 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

First winter route of the Season and Rob's first ever winter climb. Great day out. Then went and left my bloody nut and screwgate at the last belay. Drop me an email if you find it and are feeling kind hale.alex@live.com!

with Rob Henson
runsteepclimbhigh 25/Nov/17 AltLd

First proper winter climb. v. Fun. Lots of spin drift. Led 2p

adamvisick 19/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Delightful first winter lead, thrutchy crux move. Splendid turf out top

with Butler!
Butler! 19/Nov/17 AltLd
duncanbutler 19/Nov/17 AltLd

Other Duncan's first lead, reminiscent of mine two years ago.

duncangcampbell 19/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

First winter lead, apparently tech 5. Lead second pitch.

BPaske 18/Nov/17 AltLd
Dougbart 18/Nov/17 AltLd
with Adrian
Hidden 18/Nov/17 AltLd
Hidden 18/Nov/17 AltLd
Liam Watson 18/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
SarahA 18/Nov/17 -

and TO. I lead last pitch. Not much snow but all frozen.

with BPaske
Hidden 12/Nov/17 AltLd
AliGilmour 12/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Well rimed up and turf frozen. Tom led P1&3, I led P2. Pretty cold/windy and some lovely spindrift too. First winter route of the season and a class day out with Calum and Adam too.

Trace 18/Mar/17 AltLd
Ally Baba 17/Feb/17 Lead
with sasha
ephraim 05/Feb/17 -
DundeeDave 05/Feb/17 AltLd

Nice covering of powder.

furbrow 01/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

In reasonable condition, but the temperature was rising fast!

with Bruce McC
Flett ?/Feb/17 -
Hidden 30/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
chris687 30/Jan/17 AltLd

Done under powder so as the guide book says; it had a tech 5 crux which was short, well protected and fun. Turf was good and the top out was protected from the heinous south wind because of the small false summit. To get to the top there is a short, narrow ridge which must be climbed. A novice would want a rope

Hidden 12/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
evanc77 05/Jan/17 2nd
DaveThexton 05/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
Jenn_Stretton 05/Jan/17 2nd
CharlieMack 04/Jan/17 2nd O/S
with John allen , Edward weldon
Hidden 28/Dec/16 Lead
Fiona Hughes 28/Dec/16 2nd
with SP
Colin Mcgregor 23/Nov/16 AltLd

Hard work breaking trail into the Coire after Tuesday's heavy snow. Route plastered with fresh unconsolidated snow and rime ice requiring lots of clearing on the crux. Fantastic weather though and had the cliffs to ourselves!

MrRiley 20/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Leisurely start and on top by 12, lean but white and turf frozen, some nice climbing. http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/11/lean-times-in-lochan-and-that-other-coire/

Little AndyH 20/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
pete1993 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

first route of the season, really good, led to above the mixed corner, good frozen turf but under small amounts of powder

Matt Harmon 19/Nov/16 AltLd rpt

led P2

Mackinclimb 18/Nov/16 AltLd
rob16 18/Nov/16 AltLd
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead
elclarko 31/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/16 -
Grace Ford 27/Feb/16 AltLd
Benjamin Mitchell 27/Feb/16 AltLd
with Grace Ford, Chris Kemp
Lone Rider 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Did after failing on the Direct with Sophie G.

with Sophie Grace
JackM92 28/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
adie84 27/Jan/16 -
Goodstuff 27/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2. Very good! Busy route as we ended up at the same crag as the BMC international meet for a third day in a row! Lots of friendly climbers from around the planet.

Robaduck 27/Jan/16 AltLd

P1

chapmand 09/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

powdery

Chuck 09/Jan/16 AltLd
jpc1 ??/2016 AltLd
with Dave S
kbow265 ??/2016 -
kempy7 ??/2016 -
duncanbutler 12/Dec/15 AltLd

First winter lead! I'm told that it was tech 5 because it was under nothing but powder, but that sounds unlikely. Pleasant if short all the same.

with Katie Bowen
Robertgiddy 12/Dec/15 2nd

Good Route and turf well frozen.

Hidden 12/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/15 AltLd
BallsOfSteel 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Nice wee Mixed Climb.

Hidden 16/Feb/15 Lead O/S
mhamiltonj ?/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Witold Mielczarek, Ian Howie
JamieGreig 03/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Started further down which I think made it harder. Little snow but all very well frozen with great neve in the gully above the crux.

with tdudley
tdudley 03/Jan/15 2nd
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Steven Carter ??/2015 AltLd O/S
donwito 22/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

amazing and varied 2nd pitch, hesitated in the crux before committing.

with Marnoch, HaddRoots
Hidden 20/Dec/14 2nd
Hidden 20/Dec/14 Lead O/S
HaddRoots 19/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Witold
Nathan Adam 16/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Found the crux move pretty difficult under powder, gear was hard won but good when you dug it out. Pretty underwhelming route, but still decent fun and good to be up the hill.

ian_v_climber 16/Dec/14 Lead

Quite powdery but good frozen turf when needed. Crux well protected. Straight forward route and good tick for 1st Scottish winter route for nearly 7 years

with Charlie Marshall
Hidden 05/Dec/14 AltLd
DavidMcK 05/Dec/14 AltLd
calumhicks 05/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with DavidMcK, Adam Harris
MSchobitz 22/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Terrible snow. Didnt know where to go. Goggles froze, too much spindrift to see, downclimbed P1.

with USMC
2010_graham 04/Jan/14 2nd O/S
with Brendan B
HaddRoots ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Pretty Lean today, but turf all frozen and plenty of ice so still a great day

with Witold
HaddRoots ??/2014 AltLd O/S
with Witold
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Dec/13 AltLd
peter.herd 07/Dec/13 AltLd

shit

with Rory Brown
Hidden 27/Feb/13 2nd
SianR 02/Feb/13 AltLd
grady_9 17/Jan/13 2nd O/S
Clevelandclimber 11/Jan/13 AltLd
mksmith35 11/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

with MarkRoe
MarkRoe 11/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Done in two pitches, led the second pitch.

Hidden 11/Jan/13 AltLd
James Gordon ?/Jan/13 -
alasdair19 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 11/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Dec/12 2nd O/S
John Workman 11/Nov/12 AltLd

Hoard up and turf frozen

with John MacLeod
Hidden 04/Nov/12 AltLd dnf
Alex Thomson 04/Nov/12 Lead
with jenpen
Hidden 04/Nov/12 2nd O/S
oliverk 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Straightforward, crux was fine under powder

andyinglis 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
with steve
Matt Harmon 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
benkelsey 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Nice coating of hoar on othwise very bare rock. did in three pitches, very straightforward other than one short sharp crux. topped out into sunshine and panoramic views.

with Jake Young, Anna
Jake Young 12/Feb/12 AltLd
MaxR 12/Feb/12 2nd
libby.southgate 05/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Did in two pitches, Marcus led the first and I led the second. First Winter Lead(!)

with MarcusP
MarcusP 05/Feb/12 AltLd
with Libby
Hidden 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
steev 18/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Pete Barker
Pete Barker 18/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with steev
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 AltLd
David Bennett 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Paul
TomPollock 03/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Kirill 26/Feb/11 AltLd
with Michael Hosemann
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Ralfy 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
kieranlivett 27/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with nick valente
Hidden 27/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 22/Jan/11 AltLd

also excellent!

with Jeremy Windsor
freudy_love 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Plastered and choked with ice. Harder digging out gear and belays than it was to actually climb!

with Dave Douglas
Dave Douglas 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Wild weather, mixed pitch was totally iced with no gear and we left the ice screws in the cars!

Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
rossn ??/2011 AltLd
with Nick Bryan
Hidden ??/2011 -
andrew75 ??/2011 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Simon Yearsley 13/Dec/10 AltLd
with Donald Kingsnorth
ewen 16/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with nick jones
robertmichaellovell 13/Dec/09 AltLd

First winter route, excllent fun. Straightforward climbing

with tomdude
tomdude 13/Dec/09 AltLd
Elsier 13/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Fab route, great conditions, enjoyable but short crux

with Stuart
ed woods 13/Dec/09 2nd
with Adam
Captain Solo 12/Dec/09 Solo
nicjbuk 10/Dec/09 AltLd
jameshiggins 05/Dec/09 Solo
tallthinmonkey 28/Nov/09 Lead rpt
with Rafa
Hidden 12/Mar/09 2nd
suunto12 05/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Dad, Giles
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead
Rob84 01/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Cracking route - easy but awesome, get on it!

with Andy F
Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 02/Jan/09 AltLd
abbeywall ?/Jan/09 AltLd
Novice ??/2009 -
timmy-ts ??/2009 -
barney_edin 20/Dec/08 AltLd
with Simon G
Chris(cface!) 17/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Matt Watts
Hidden 29/Nov/08 AltLd
niallk 29/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Some snow, frozen turf, no ice. Contrary to climberuk's comments, (who I was with) I thought it just about in nick.

climberuk 29/Nov/08 2nd β

Second winter climb, first mixed climb (and first finishing in daylight). Weather was great but next to no snow and ice so the route wasnt really in condition. Found 2nd pitch quite tricky.

with Novice
Hidden 28/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
manmike 29/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with jason
Alastair MacSween 29/Mar/08 Lead
with Graham Hunter
Sandy P 09/Mar/08 AltLd
with S. Carter
jason ?/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with manmike
keith hal ?/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Andy Nisbet
christine1988 ?/Jan/08 -
Neil D ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
Sandy Simpson ??/2008 Lead
ChrisMarden ??/2008 -
with Simon
andymoin 28/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Bit disappointing, short and not very hard despite starting at the lowest part of the buttress up a III, 4 grove.

Hidden 20/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
Eccentric 20/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Bunchuk
robertporter 19/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
Cardi 16/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Led fun mixed 2nd pitch. First pitch solid turf, but lean.

with Clare D & Ed Hill
t_stork 02/Dec/07 2nd O/S

My first winter route!

with Steve Walls
SWalls 02/Dec/07 Lead

Tom's first winter climb

with t_stork
wilchivs ?/Dec/07 2nd rpt
with Jon Bleiker
stokesrees ?/Dec/07 AltLd β
with Tom Thorpe
akhughes ?/Dec/07 AltLd
Mark Walter ?/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Hidden 15/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Jamie B 13/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Wicamoi ?/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
gdb4060 ?/Apr/07 -
with Caron
Hidden 18/Feb/07 2nd
SWalls 17/Feb/07 AltLd
with Andy Ruck, Cliff Rowe
roryifinlay ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 19/Nov/06 AltLd
Jamie B ?/Nov/06 AltLd
with Martin Riddell
Hidden 25/Feb/06 Lead O/S
pdisney 17/Feb/06 2nd

Climbed whilst on Glenmore Lodge course. Small avalanche in gully on the way down!

with Chris B
Francis Blunt Climb-Norge ?/Jan/06 AltLd
with Joe Williams
Hidden ?/Jan/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd
Si dH 05/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
Hidden 14/Mar/05 2nd O/S
Yourlead 20/Nov/04 AltLd
with Graham Penny
Hidden 10/Jan/04 Lead
nickdonohue ?/Jan/04 AltLd
with Mark McCarthy
michaelb1 ?/Feb/03 AltLd

Excellent route, large sling runner before crux

with troybison, Robert Durkin
troybison ?/Feb/03 AltLd
Hidden 07/Mar/02 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/02 2nd
Tarquin ??/2002 -
Yourlead 16/Apr/01 AltLd
with Raymond Simpson
niall_mac ?/Nov/00 AltLd
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
1202alarm ?/Jan/99 -

With Martin Collins

Colin McKerrell ??/1998 -
Hidden 05/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 15/Feb/97 AltLd O/S
with Constantin Latatusu, Jerry Hadwin
Yourlead 02/Mar/96 AltLd

Finished up after the direct start etaking the 2nd pitch

with Graham Penny
pingora 05/Dec/92 Lead O/S
amcleish ??/1986 -
Hidden 18/Dec/83 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 11/Dec/83 AltLd
with Rab Young
duncan ?/Dec/82 AltLd O/S

Or a similar buttress route

with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Hidden 01/Jan/80 2nd
Derek Ryden 20/Mar/75 Lead O/S
with Ian Stirrups
Sean Kelly ?/Jan/70 AltLd

Climbed alongside Mick Geddes and John Robinson

with Dick Curtis
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 33
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set