Rockfax Description
II, 420m. A stunning route which takes a great line up an initially blank-looking sweep of granite. There are difficulties on the slabs but most of the tricky climbing is up cracks - so if you can't jam, this will feel nigh on impossible! It is possible to split the pitches differently to how we've described here. ]
1) 5c. The first pitch of Pyramid. Climb the corner to the foot of a green slab which the corner continues up.
2) 6a. Traverse out right across a small half-a-foot width break and then head straight up before drifting right up a slab.
3) 5c. Step right and climb a crack which gradually comes back left onto a ledge and a stance shared with Pyramid.
4) 6c. Go straight up twin cracks, which gradually merge into a single crack. Jam up this and the tough corner that caps it. Easier with small fingers!
5) 6a+. Climb a short corner then traverse out right and climb a bulging slab.
6) 6b. Continue up the slab (two bolts) and then the finger-crack above.
7) 6b. Head up the tricky corner above and then a crack above to reach a distinctive sloping ledge and a belay shared with Pyramid.
8) 6a+. Start up the right-hand side of the huge block which makes up pitch 7 of Pyramid. After 12m, branch out right towards a small roof. Pass through this and then drift back left to belay at the top of pitch 8 of Pyramid.
9) 3b. Traverse easily to the bottom right of the steep face of Pyramid pitch 9.
10) 6a. Follow a vague ridge at the right-hand edge of the steep face to reach a small ledge.
11) Continue up the vague ledge via some slabby moves. Carry on to a belay set back from the edge of the steep face.
From here, either abseil off or continue up the final three pitches of Pyramid. © Rockfax
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Grade: ED1 6 ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)