UKC

SMC Description
70m. This unusual route takes an unlikely line up a wide crack through the stepped overhangs up the left side of a pillar.
1) 30m. Climb a wide groove and move up to gain the crack. Follow this over or round three roofs, then make a delicate traverse across the left wall below a large roof to a ledge left of a large chockstone.
2) 15m. Regain the crack and follow it to the top of the pillar.
3) 25m. Climb a groove onto the crest on the right (or escape easily up left). © SMC

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
sas 11/Feb AltLd dnf

Slipped on pitch 3 after trying to break through the cornice and giving up.

with Gwyd
bodovix 11/Feb AltLd dnf

had to bail in a hurry after partner fell of p3. left the ropes on the 1st pitch

nvalentine760 25/Jan Lead dnf

Backed off just before the first roof as a party on ‘Daddy Longlegs’ had a fall and needed help lowering the fallen climber to the Coire floor. If anyone climbs in the near future and fancies returning my big red hex then give me a message ????????

Hidden 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
noskki 25/Nov/17 AltLd
with AmyG
AmyG 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Good route. Gear was good. Slow going as everything covered in snow. Led pitch 1.

with noskki
tunnah 19/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with CMoore
CMoore 19/Nov/17 2nd O/S
with tunnah
niallsash 18/Nov/17 AltLd
with davkeo
davkeo 18/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Walked into Sneachda and it was black so decided to walk up and drop into Lochain (for a look) which was in much better nick although still lean. Turf frozen. Teams on Hookers, SS, Fallout & Hoarmaster. I led p1 which was an excellent, sustained & interesting pitch. Crux was the traverse up high with poor axes & a delicate feel. Niall did the nice tech 5 bit off the belay & ran it to the top. A good first day of the season considering it was looking like a write off early on.

oliverk 18/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

with Tim E
Hidden 27/Mar/17 -
chapmand 18/Mar/17 2nd
with Johannes
masa-alpin 17/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Superb. Great quality and sustained route and in great conditions (sadly only for today). Joe lead P1 and I lead P2+3 (straight-up exit). Started as the proper Scottish conditions with upward snowfall and I were on belay duty on P1 with 7 layers for my top and indispensable goggles. It warmed up by the late afternoon, and everything started to melt; (never-ending) snowfall later turned into rain, which must be even more damaging.

with Jocelyn T
Pina 17/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Great fun. Agree with comments below, traverse felt easy compared to the roof. Helped quite a bit by bullet hard turf and even some useful neve in the wide cracks. Unfortunately thawing as we left.

with Masa
Hidden 07/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/17 Lead O/S
Craig Holden 11/Feb/17 2nd O/S
with Kitty, Jake Dowell
andyinglis 05/Feb/17 2nd

Forgot how hard this is!

Neil Adams 05/Feb/17 Lead dog

Second route of the day. Took a silly wee slip when a tool ripped. Finished route in one big pitch

Jamie Skelton 14/Jan/17 2nd O/S
with Matt Hawkins, Jack Morris
Charlie Zephyr Booth 05/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
with tim millen
Captain Solo 02/Jan/17 AltLd

Dave led the hard bit, the fun side of testing.

James Gordon ?/Dec/16 -
Hugh Simons 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Lean conditions, a huge contrast to 2 weeks ago where the whole crag was plastered and there was way more snow. First pitch felt pretty top end! Crux is the first roof which i took a long time to muster the courage to commit to. Apologies to everyone else in the corrie enjoying the peaceful weather day for my cursing and swearing on route! A great route.

Euan Todd 19/Nov/16 2nd O/S

Awesome. First few metres were pretty thin with cruddy ice, but the rest was great. Definitely too hard for me to lead (right now), but I was pleased to get it clean on 2nd for my first route of the season. Crux was definitely passing the first roof - the 'thin' traverse was easy in comparison. Well done to Hugh, was a monster effort!

harry_lewis 11/Nov/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't hack the amount of rime, bailed after 6/7 metres

with Connor Read
The old James turnbull 17/Feb/16 AltLd
with aiden
Hidden 28/Jan/16 2nd O/S
adie84 27/Jan/16 -
Tom Livingstone 27/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

P2/3

with Erik Eisele
wi11 05/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

P1. Plastered. Lots of digging!

with Louisa Reynolds
Hidden 02/Jan/16 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
hamish2016 13/Dec/15 AltLd
with Tom Ripley
SWalls 13/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden 13/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
calumhicks 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
with Adz
Hidden 12/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden 03/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Misha 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Brian Pollock 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Plastered and required a lot of excavation but an excellent route at the grade. 2 stars, 3 if not for the rubbish last pitch.

with Craig
Andrew Wilson 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Misha
olekemi 22/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Another excellent early season mixed outing

with Brian W, Jeremy M
planetmarshall 20/Feb/15 Lead

Planned to do Savage Slit but had been stripped after the thaw, Deep Throat was thin but good. Gear everywhere.

with Kelly Maclennan
MSchobitz 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Tried to lead P1 but got stuck in what appears to be the crux corner/overhang. Didnt committ so lowered off and mike lead that pitch. Then lead the top pitch. Ace route. Will come back to do it better. Some bomber hooks. Tech 6 is hard....

with Mike Watson
HosteDenis ?/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Steven Carter ??/2015 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 ??/2015 -
John Workman 30/Nov/13 AltLd

Great way to celebrate St Andew's Day. Route in good nick.

with Billy
BillyBurnside1 30/Nov/13 AltLd

Good lead of main pitch John!

with John Workman
Alasdair Fulton 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Nice, not too hard.

with James Clapham
sleeplessjb 09/Jul/13 Solo

Stuck rope! :( got a couple of wires for my trouble tho!

annep 04/Mar/13 2nd
GaryK 24/Feb/13 2nd O/S

An excellent route, not as hard as it looks from below.

with Andy Cave
Hidden 23/Feb/13 2nd
Andrew Sloan 09/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Made more demanding because I'd left the Hexes in the car! Steve aided and bleated all the way up. Tough route.

with Steve Grove
robertmichaellovell 09/Feb/13 AltLd
with tomdude
tomdude 09/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

found this rather tiring, maybe due to how buried everything was today. nice route, toughest lead so far :-)

tim newton 12/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Edvin m
Hidden 03/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
freudy_love 29/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Got pumped and disco-legged just under the first roof (crux?) and ended up taking a rest on the rope. Considering the meat of the route was still to come, success seemed a but a faint glimmer of possibility and I lowered off to run and fight another day. Two previous grade V routes does NOT a steady, confident grade V leader make!! There is now also an insitu no. 10 wire at the first roof, a thread round the small chockstone 5m below and a hammered in medium sized hex a few metres off the ground used for the belay. Good Luck!

with Dave Douglas
CharlieMack 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

First grade V, great day out. Conditions were a little thin with lots of hoar and powder. Traverse was... delicate :)

with Duncan Wallace
davesykes 23/Jan/12 AltLd

with Magnus (Sweden) BMC Wintermeet. Great first pitch.

Big Lee 22/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Another great Lochain route. Awesome first pitch. Tricky, balancy moves at the traverse before the belay.

Rick Ashton 22/Jan/12 AltLd

Great climb. I lead 1st pitch through the overhangs which made great fun and some nice positions. Did it in 2 pitches. Horing up nicely in the lochan

with Lee Harrison
James Smith 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

did in two pitches. exciting moves through the roof on the first pitch, second pitch easier but really enjoyable climbing up the crack for the first half. my first V :)

centurion05 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Stu Harth, chris thorne
Whitty2012 06/Jan/12 2nd
with Jacob Davies, ClimberMH
Whitty2012 06/Jan/12 2nd
with Jacob Davies, ClimberMH
ClimberMH 06/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Heavily iced up.

with Thomas Whitfield, Jacob Davies
Hidden ?/Jan/12 AltLd
geoff.comley 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Quite insecure climbing with all obvious hooks buried and relying on thin ice. Awesome moves through the roofs.

with simon_D
simon_D 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Great wee route, bit bold with no hooks in sight, thin ice but with good feet, lots of consolidated neve with powder on top, gear prospects get better with height!

with Geoff
Carol Goodall 23/Jan/11 2nd

First Grade V and parts very hard. I took a variation up the pleasant corner instead of the chimney after first belay

MarcusP 23/Jan/11 2nd
with Carol, Jonnie
jonnie3430 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Cracks choked with ice. Very enjoyable!

with Marcus, Carol
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
alkira ??/2011 -
andyinglis 23/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Massive hoar, huge amounts of clearing, time consuming.

with Miles Perkins
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead
jameshiggins 13/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Perfect conditions with excellent gear placements. Superb route!

with Kenny Wright
david morse 12/Dec/09 2nd O/S
with Pete+Lole
Hidden ?/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/09 AltLd
Greg Boswell 29/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
with Euan Whittaker
Hidden 07/Mar/09 AltLd
markjarvie 07/Mar/09 AltLd
with adw07
Hidden 24/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
mike.moss ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Alco-nomic 08/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Great route,Top half buried in hoar frost,good pro,solid placements,classic.

with Andy Wardle
Smelly Fox 24/Nov/08 Lead dnf

Climb was exhausting to protect today. Backed off in a shivering mess!

with Scott Webster
s kennedy 31/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
Hidden 31/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
hwackerhage 26/Oct/08 Lead
with Ryan Slater
mulletcocktail2000 26/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with henning
akhughes ?/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
alpinist63 ?/Jan/07 -
alpinist63 ?/Jan/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Grant ?/Nov/06 AltLd
with tim marsh
Hidden 29/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
sgl 22/Jan/06 Lead
with Konnie
jimdanson 07/Jan/06 AltLd

lots of spindrift. Dan led pitch 1, i led tricky traverse on pitch 2

with dan robinson and bob curry
French Erick 23/Jan/05 AltLd
with Richard Jewell
nickdonohue ?/Feb/04 Lead

Superb - one of the most enjoyable mixed routes I've done.

with Mark McCarthy
Hidden ?/Dec/03 AltLd
Dave Kerr 04/Nov/00 Lead
with Iain Sharpe
whispering nic ?/Nov/99 -
with Al Reid
Hidden 15/Feb/97 2nd O/S
Andy Clark 15/Feb/97 Lead
with Burnsie
charlesmfrench 09/Mar/96 Lead O/S

L,L.

frost ?/Nov/94 AltLd
with J Turner
pingora 08/Dec/93 2nd O/S
with Blaggers
alkira 14/Nov/93 -
with kerry atkey
Hidden ?/Oct/92 AltLd
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 37
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set