Rockfax Description
80m. An excellent climb, sustained, technical and very well protected, which goes up the impressive corner right of Savage Slit. Start below the corner. Go up to below the roof blocking the corner (10m). Cross the roof and climb the corner to a ledge on the right (30m). There is an optional belay at half-height on the left. Continue in the same line (15m). Finish as for Savage Slit; abseil or climb its last pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The corner to the right of Savage Slit.
1. Climb into the corner and past the first roof. Belay on top of this on the ledge.
2. Continue up the corner to reach a belay on another ledge.
3. Finish more easily up the corner.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Mid-Grade Scottish Winter, Winter 2018 Dreamlist, Scottish Winter IV-VI.

Hidden 02/Jan 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Craig Holden 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Great nick, ran pitch 1 and 2 together.

with Harry Newmark
HarryNewmark 09/Dec/17 2nd
with Craig Holden
Alfie Maun 26/Nov/17 2nd
Hidden 26/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
murray 26/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

10/10 for horizontal axe torques on the second pitch.. Rapped off 5 badly equalised pitons after this rather than finishing up easy ground above

tunnah 19/Nov/17 2nd O/S
niallsash 19/Nov/17 AltLd
with davkeo
CMoore 19/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with tunnah
davkeo 19/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Corner pitch. Brilliant climbing. Rimed up and with some ice in cracks.

Hugh Simons 18/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2, cracking route! Lean but good conditions.

with Gordon
Gordon Lacey 18/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/17 AltLd
The old James turnbull 04/Mar/17 2nd

Great lead by rich today in pretty Scottish conditions. Felt fine... With a rope above my head.

with rich howells
jamieevans 03/Mar/17 Lead O/S

In one long pitch, abbed off. Rope got stuck, minor epic ensued.

DaveThexton 27/Feb/17 AltLd
with Richard Kendrick
Richard Kendrick 27/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
with Dave Thexton
cacheson 24/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Made it a bit too long, accidentally pulled through the roof (crux) to find a belay ledge big enough for 3.5 bumcheeks. Much uncomfortable faff later, made it to the top of the interesting climbing and abbed off. First VI, kind of accidentally. Great climbing, much easier than expected, also safe as houses in today's conditions.

with Ben P, Jake
bljp 24/Feb/17 2nd
with Jake Dowell, Chris Acheson
Andy Moles 23/Feb/17 AltLd
with Lou, Robert
Roberttaylor 23/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

With Andy and Lou. Andy led P1, Lou led P2, I led from the ledge at the end of P2 to the savage slit ledge.

with AMo
Hidden 11/Feb/17 AltLd dog
Hidden 11/Feb/17 AltLd
machars 11/Feb/17 AltLd


with Suzana
Chrismith 10/Feb/17 2nd

Happy enough on the blunt end today enjoying this incredible route. Not a bad move throughout, sustained but fantastic for the hooks and front points (need to sharpen...) and never desperate. Well done to Shane for the mega lead! Bright blue sky and not a breath of wind. Quality.

guitarshane 10/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Lovely lovely lovely. What a brilliant route, great moves on all three pitches and very safe, great intro to grade VI and a beautiful day.

Hidden 05/Feb/17 -
Hidden 05/Feb/17 -
Ally Baba 29/Jan/17 Lead O/S

mega route with mega hooks. Super safe and lots of fun. Make sure to give the pegs a whack before clipping.

with jack geldard, Calum Musket
MSchobitz 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Been scared of this route for 3 years. Mega chuffed! Great climbing throughout. Crux is short lived and p3 is a little awkward in places. Led p1 (to top of block) and p3 (from ledge out right to ab point). Well done to Harry for leading the superb corner!

harry_lewis 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2, ace route and very sustained

Richard Abel 09/Nov/16 AltLd
calumhicks 09/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
with Richard
RClothier 28/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with Italian Marcelo
Dave Almond 28/Jan/16 AltLd

amazed to actually get a route in this week!!!

with Ohbu Ryosuke
Hidden 18/Jan/16 AltLd
peter.herd 18/Jan/16 AltLd

Great fun!

with Rory Brown
graeme gatherer 12/Dec/15 -
with Rab, Steve Elliot
Uisdean hawthorn 29/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 29/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Martin McKenna - UKC 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S


Charlie Zephyr Booth 22/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

simply awesome! a good start to the season!

with mark greenbank, tim millen
Mr. K 28/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch one and belayed above the square roof. Masa dispatched pitch two then we abbed off the in situ station. Amazing route in proper Wintry conditions, lots of snow and ice, verglas on all the rounded footholds, good value and my first VI! o/

masa-alpin 28/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Kyle lead P1 (up to above the capstone), I did P2 to the ab point and abbed off. I have done P1 once 2 years ago. The route, both crack and face, was substantially verglassed. Accordingly gear was limited (though still enough) and footholds were slippery. Sustained and great route! Walking out was in heavy snow storm at the temperature of around freezing..

with Kyle
robpartridge 17/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Harry Wickham
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Malcolm Bass ??/2015 -
Misha 26/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Dec/14 Lead
Brian Pollock 08/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Started in white out and pretty full on conditions. Finished with pretty much clear skys and a casual walk back to the car. Technical but very steady. All in, a fantastic route and great start to the season.

with Craig
Ross Barnes 23/Nov/13 AltLd
with James
Alasdair Fulton 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Really nice route, quite steady.

with James Clapham
Ri 09/Nov/13 Lead

Hard won.

with mike
mshorter 09/Nov/13 AltLd
with ry
Hidden 22/Feb/13 2nd dnf
masa-alpin 22/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Conditions were I thought great. Unfortunately we realised my second had lost his belay device after P1, so we abbed off. Left a well-equalised ab station there.

with Luke A
guy757 09/Feb/13 -
Hidden 17/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
al99 17/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, probably in perfect nic. Led pitch 2. Got ropes stuck on descent! Bummer!

robertmichaellovell 02/Dec/12 AltLd

yes this was really good, great day out - with a lot of rime!

with Fiona
mike.moss 04/Nov/12 AltLd dog
Kirill 04/Nov/12 AltLd

Clean apart from a false start when my axes blew and I ended up hanging upside down next to my belayer. Climbed in 3 pitches. I led to the top of the overhang, Mike led the main corner, then I got the rest. Abseiled off from the top of the Savage slit. Beautiful little climb on a beautiful day. Great conditions!

Hidden 01/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 01/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Emily
geoff.comley 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Perfect start to the season. Been wanting to climb this route for ages. Led p1 to the main belay ledge. Simon finished up the final head wall/chimney. Sustained but never desperate and really safe. Psyched!!!!

with Simon
simon_D 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Geoff did the hard bit, I led the traditional finish!

with Geoff
Harry Holmes 04/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Joanna
Hidden 04/Feb/12 AltLd
horsefeathers 04/Feb/12 2nd dog
with Harry
James Smith 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

did as 3 pitches to try keep it fair. sam did 1 and 3 while i did the main corner. never desperate but keeps you interested all the way! well worth its 3 stars in my book.

with sam
Ally Smith 21/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Ran away when the wind got stupid

with Pete H
Adam Booth 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing climbing all the way, bomber hooks, good gear (and lots in situ). Do it as 1 60m pitch and rap off the slit belay, but take lots of quickdraws!

with Greg Boswell, Will Sim
Hidden 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
adw07 12/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

First pitch only

Simon Yearsley 31/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S
alkira ??/2011 -
Lester 16/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Conor Gahan
Hidden 21/Nov/10 AltLd
Alco-nomic 14/Nov/10 -

Easy for grade as crux is so well geared, great lead from Mike for his first route of the season

with mike
stevebarratt 10/Nov/10 Lead

Fell out!

with Ant
Hidden 25/Oct/10 AltLd
Pete Graham 20/Feb/10 Lead
with Luke Porter
Fatherof2 16/Feb/10 -

2nd main pitch steep enough ! Battle through deep hoar on top pitch

with Roger
DJayB 06/Feb/10 Lead dnf

Lead to above the block and backed off! Very slow work due to muchos rime. Should have done it really!

rclarke 06/Feb/10 AltLd dnf

slow work, so went home. really need to get it done though

Hidden 15/Feb/09 2nd
sgl 09/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with viv
k2scott ??/2009 -
Greg Boswell 09/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
mgeek ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

2nd on the hard pitches. Starting to enjoy this Scottish mixed thing!

with adam hughes +Boswell
akhughes ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Greg B
Hidden 24/Nov/08 Lead O/S
hwackerhage 06/Apr/08 -

Very well protected, hard but never too hard. A good climb to push the grade.

with Brian Duthie
Hidden 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 16/Mar/08 AltLd
with Burnsie
Hidden 03/Dec/07 2nd
Brown 24/Nov/07 AltLd dnf

Backed off due to bad weather above crux.

with Andy Hobbs
Neil Adams 02/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

First grade VI!

andyinglis 02/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

1st VI, Neil got crux!

with neil adams
Hidden ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Chris Plewa ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Mar/05 Lead dog

As host on Int meet. Stupidly tried to do in one long pitch. Axes ripped near very top (way after true crux...) and funnily enough I fell off! Not funny for long-suffering partner though....

Hidden ?/Feb/03 -
Mark Stevenson ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Helen Rennard
phil64 ??/1999 Lead

Good, first grade6, straightforward with good gear

with stu mc
charlesmfrench 01/Feb/98 AltLd O/S


with Mark Vandome
Hidden ?/Oct/93 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/92 AltLd
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High VII
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