80m. The corner to the right of Savage Slit.
1. Climb into the corner and past the first roof. Belay on top of this on the ledge.
2. Continue up the corner to reach a belay on another ledge.
3. Finish more easily up the corner.

Ticklists

Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Winter 2018 Dreamlist, 20 Scottish Routes for a Nuclear Winter, Winter 2018/19, EUMC - Must do climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
carr0t 8 Mar -
Dougbart 8 Mar AltLd
with Stuart
with Stuart
s kennedy 8 Mar AltLd Good to put this one to bed after attempt 10 years prior. Nice and sheltered from the weather today.
Good to put this one to bed after attempt 10 years prior. Nice and sheltered from the weather today.
Hidden 8 Mar AltLd β
Matthew Glenn 5 Mar AltLd O/S Led p1.
with Luca C
Led p1.
with Luca C
LucaC 5 Mar AltLd O/S Lead the corner
with Matt
Lead the corner
with Matt
JendeHoxar 31 Jan 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 31 Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jan 2nd dog
olekemi 23 Jan AltLd O/S This has been on the radar for some time, and finally got to it. It did not disappoint.
with jeremy
This has been on the radar for some time, and finally got to it. It did not disappoint.
with jeremy
Hidden 23 Jan AltLd
innes 19 Jan Lead O/S A real classic. Great effort by Ruth on her first VI.
with Ruth
A real classic. Great effort by Ruth on her first VI.
with Ruth
Rhys Deane 9 Jan AltLd O/S
with Batt Barnett
with Batt Barnett
Hidden 9 Jan AltLd
iainballantyne 21 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S P2, all good faffing fun!
P2, all good faffing fun!
Robertgiddy 21 Dec, 2018 AltLd P1, stupidly fell off about 5m up but the roof was easier than expected. Excellent Route
P1, stupidly fell off about 5m up but the roof was easier than expected. Excellent Route
eaf4 10 Dec, 2018 AltLd
Stuart the postie 10 Dec, 2018 AltLd Sweet
with Euan Fowler
Sweet
with Euan Fowler
Hidden 9 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
James Thacker 4 Dec, 2018 Lead
with Kris Hill
with Kris Hill
jackob 3 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S What an incredible route! Absolutely buzzing! Best mixed climb I have done so far I think! And my first tech 7 lead
What an incredible route! Absolutely buzzing! Best mixed climb I have done so far I think! And my first tech 7 lead
wheelsucker 3 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Jack led P1 & 3 and I led the main corner pitch 2. Quite techy pulling through the roof on P1 but well protected by an insitu peg. P2 was fine with good hooks and gear. Wee bit buried so not super easy. P3 was great fun and shouldn't be missed out. Grade wise the UKC massif is spot on with VI, soft tech 7.
with jackob
Jack led P1 & 3 and I led the main corner pitch 2. Quite techy pulling through the roof on P1 but well protected by an insitu peg. P2 was fine with good hooks and gear. Wee bit buried so not super easy. P3 was great fun and shouldn't be missed out. Grade wise the UKC massif is spot on with VI, soft tech 7.
with jackob
Hidden 25 Feb, 2018 AltLd
Ulgrid 25 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S An utterly fantastic route - all pitches are challenging but do-able with decent hooks and protection. Hooks and protection took quite a bit of finding in the iced-up cracks, and the verglass on the second pitch was spicy. Led pitches 1 & 3 (belaying from on top of the roof on P1).
An utterly fantastic route - all pitches are challenging but do-able with decent hooks and protection. Hooks and protection took quite a bit of finding in the iced-up cracks, and the verglass on the second pitch was spicy. Led pitches 1 & 3 (belaying from on top of the roof on P1).
Hidden 2 Jan, 2018 2nd rpt
Jamie Skelton 11 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Scott G
with Scott G
Hidden 11 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
Craig Holden 10 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Great nick, ran pitch 1 and 2 together.
with Harry Newmark
Great nick, ran pitch 1 and 2 together.
with Harry Newmark
HarryNewmark 9 Dec, 2017 2nd
with Craig Holden
with Craig Holden
Alfie Maun 26 Nov, 2017 2nd
Just Will 26 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead the first pitch in full winter connies. Some awkward poo your pants terrain getting to the ledge at the base of the main corner - a lack of hooks and ledgey 80 degree slopers (sans neve) induced at least a couple of brown stains. The rest of the pitch around the overhanging block was mega on mostly damn fine hooks. Cut loose in the last couple of moves for some squeaky bum time when I didn't spot key hooks buried under rime, providing a fine spectable for Murray and Alf who were growing more cold and bored by the minute. Can confirm that the belay above the block is 'sub-optimal' for a team of three, although it provided ample opportunity for intimate mid-belay spooning. Murray grinded his his way up the (horizontal torque dense) quality second pitch, whingeing all the way. Murray's prolific meditation skills at least helped make him 'one' with the ice blasted rock - more than can be said for Alfie 'putting the fallout into fallout corner' Maun who enjoyed a royal king swing to add to the day's entertainment. Post a hot aches bonanza we abbed the route. Another weekend Sleeper hit.
Lead the first pitch in full winter connies. Some awkward poo your pants terrain getting to the ledge at the base of the main corner - a lack of hooks and ledgey 80 degree slopers (sans neve) induced at least a couple of brown stains. The rest of the pitch around the overhanging block was mega on mostly damn fine hooks. Cut loose in the last couple of moves for some squeaky bum time when I didn't spot key hooks buried under rime, providing a fine spectable for Murray and Alf who were growing more cold and bored by the minute. Can confirm that the belay above the block is 'sub-optimal' for a team of three, although it provided ample opportunity for intimate mid-belay spooning. Murray grinded his his way up the (horizontal torque dense) quality second pitch, whingeing all the way. Murray's prolific meditation skills at least helped make him 'one' with the ice blasted rock - more than can be said for Alfie 'putting the fallout into fallout corner' Maun who enjoyed a royal king swing to add to the day's entertainment. Post a hot aches bonanza we abbed the route. Another weekend Sleeper hit.
murray 26 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S 10/10 for horizontal axe torques on the second pitch.. Rapped off 5 badly equalised pitons after this rather than finishing up easy ground above
10/10 for horizontal axe torques on the second pitch.. Rapped off 5 badly equalised pitons after this rather than finishing up easy ground above
tunnah 19 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
with CMoore
with CMoore
niallsash 19 Nov, 2017 AltLd
with davkeo
with davkeo
CMoore 19 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
with tunnah
with tunnah
davkeo 19 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Corner pitch. Brilliant climbing. Rimed up and with some ice in cracks.
Corner pitch. Brilliant climbing. Rimed up and with some ice in cracks.
Hugh Simons 18 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Pitch 2, cracking route! Lean but good conditions.
Pitch 2, cracking route! Lean but good conditions.
Gordon Lacey 18 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Mar, 2017 AltLd
The old James turnbull 4 Mar, 2017 2nd Great lead by rich today in pretty Scottish conditions. Felt fine... With a rope above my head.
with rich howells
Great lead by rich today in pretty Scottish conditions. Felt fine... With a rope above my head.
with rich howells
jamieevans 3 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S In one long pitch, abbed off. Rope got stuck, minor epic ensued.
In one long pitch, abbed off. Rope got stuck, minor epic ensued.
DaveThexton 27 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Richard Kendrick
with Richard Kendrick
Richard Kendrick 27 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Dave Thexton
with Dave Thexton
cacheson 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Led first pitch. Made it a bit too long, accidentally pulled through the roof (crux) to find a belay ledge big enough for 3.5 bumcheeks. Much uncomfortable faff later, made it to the top of the interesting climbing and abbed off. First VI, kind of accidentally. Great climbing, much easier than expected, also safe as houses in today's conditions.
with Ben P, Jake
Led first pitch. Made it a bit too long, accidentally pulled through the roof (crux) to find a belay ledge big enough for 3.5 bumcheeks. Much uncomfortable faff later, made it to the top of the interesting climbing and abbed off. First VI, kind of accidentally. Great climbing, much easier than expected, also safe as houses in today's conditions.
with Ben P, Jake
bljp 24 Feb, 2017 2nd
with Jake Dowell, cacheson
with Jake Dowell, cacheson
Andy Moles 23 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Lou, Roberttaylor
with Lou, Roberttaylor
Roberttaylor 23 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S With Andy and Lou. Andy led P1, Lou led P2, I led from the ledge at the end of P2 to the savage slit ledge.
With Andy and Lou. Andy led P1, Lou led P2, I led from the ledge at the end of P2 to the savage slit ledge.
Hidden 11 Feb, 2017 AltLd dog
Hidden 11 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Graeme Barr 11 Feb, 2017 AltLd P2.
with Suzana
P2.
with Suzana
Chrismith 10 Feb, 2017 2nd Happy enough on the blunt end today enjoying this incredible route. Not a bad move throughout, sustained but fantastic for the hooks and front points (need to sharpen...) and never desperate. Well done to Shane for the mega lead! Bright blue sky and not a breath of wind. Quality.
Happy enough on the blunt end today enjoying this incredible route. Not a bad move throughout, sustained but fantastic for the hooks and front points (need to sharpen...) and never desperate. Well done to Shane for the mega lead! Bright blue sky and not a breath of wind. Quality.
guitarshane 10 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Lovely lovely lovely. What a brilliant route, great moves on all three pitches and very safe, great intro to grade VI and a beautiful day.
Lovely lovely lovely. What a brilliant route, great moves on all three pitches and very safe, great intro to grade VI and a beautiful day.
Hidden 5 Feb, 2017 -
Hidden 5 Feb, 2017 -
Ally Baba 29 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S mega route with mega hooks. Super safe and lots of fun. Make sure to give the pegs a whack before clipping.
with jack geldard, Calum Musket
mega route with mega hooks. Super safe and lots of fun. Make sure to give the pegs a whack before clipping.
with jack geldard, Calum Musket
MSchobitz 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Been scared of this route for 3 years. Mega chuffed! Great climbing throughout. Crux is short lived and p3 is a little awkward in places. Led p1 (to top of block) and p3 (from ledge out right to ab point). Well done to Harry for leading the superb corner!
Been scared of this route for 3 years. Mega chuffed! Great climbing throughout. Crux is short lived and p3 is a little awkward in places. Led p1 (to top of block) and p3 (from ledge out right to ab point). Well done to Harry for leading the superb corner!
harry_lewis 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p2, ace route and very sustained
Led p2, ace route and very sustained
Richard Abel 9 Nov, 2016 AltLd
calumhicks 9 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Richard
with Richard
Mark Stevenson 31 Jan, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Stu Lade
with Stu Lade
Robin Clothier 28 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Italian Marcelo
with Italian Marcelo
Dave Almond 28 Jan, 2016 AltLd amazed to actually get a route in this week!!!
with Ohbu Ryosuke
amazed to actually get a route in this week!!!
with Ohbu Ryosuke
Hidden 18 Jan, 2016 AltLd
peter.herd 18 Jan, 2016 AltLd Great fun!
with Rory Brown
Great fun!
with Rory Brown
graeme gatherer 12 Dec, 2015 -
with Rab, Steve Elliot
with Rab, Steve Elliot
Uisdean hawthorn 29 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Martin McKenna - UKC 28 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
mim tiller 28 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S Quality
Quality
Charlie Zephyr Booth 22 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S simply awesome! a good start to the season!
with mark greenbank, tim millen
simply awesome! a good start to the season!
with mark greenbank, tim millen
Mr. K 28 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead pitch one and belayed above the square roof. Masa dispatched pitch two then we abbed off the in situ station. Amazing route in proper Wintry conditions, lots of snow and ice, verglas on all the rounded footholds, good value and my first VI! o/
I lead pitch one and belayed above the square roof. Masa dispatched pitch two then we abbed off the in situ station. Amazing route in proper Wintry conditions, lots of snow and ice, verglas on all the rounded footholds, good value and my first VI! o/
masa-alpin 28 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Kyle lead P1 (up to above the capstone), I did P2 to the ab point and abbed off. I have done P1 once 2 years ago. The route, both crack and face, was substantially verglassed. Accordingly gear was limited (though still enough) and footholds were slippery. Sustained and great route! Walking out was in heavy snow storm at the temperature of around freezing..
with Mr. K
Kyle lead P1 (up to above the capstone), I did P2 to the ab point and abbed off. I have done P1 once 2 years ago. The route, both crack and face, was substantially verglassed. Accordingly gear was limited (though still enough) and footholds were slippery. Sustained and great route! Walking out was in heavy snow storm at the temperature of around freezing..
with Mr. K
robpartridge 17 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
with Harry Wickham
with Harry Wickham
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
Malcolm Bass ??, 2015 -
Misha 26 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Dec, 2014 Lead
Brian Pollock 8 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Started in white out and pretty full on conditions. Finished with pretty much clear skys and a casual walk back to the car. Technical but very steady. All in, a fantastic route and great start to the season.
with Craig
Started in white out and pretty full on conditions. Finished with pretty much clear skys and a casual walk back to the car. Technical but very steady. All in, a fantastic route and great start to the season.
with Craig
Ross Barnes 23 Nov, 2013 AltLd
with James
with James
Alasdair Fulton 23 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Really nice route, quite steady.
with James Clapham
Really nice route, quite steady.
with James Clapham
Ri 9 Nov, 2013 Lead Hard won.
Hard won.
mshorter 9 Nov, 2013 AltLd
with ry
with ry
Hidden 22 Feb, 2013 2nd dnf
masa-alpin 22 Feb, 2013 Lead dnf Conditions were I thought great. Unfortunately we realised my second had lost his belay device after P1, so we abbed off. Left a well-equalised ab station there.
with Lukeva
Conditions were I thought great. Unfortunately we realised my second had lost his belay device after P1, so we abbed off. Left a well-equalised ab station there.
with Lukeva
Hidden 9 Feb, 2013 -
Hidden 17 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
al99 17 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Great route, probably in perfect nic. Led pitch 2. Got ropes stuck on descent! Bummer!
Great route, probably in perfect nic. Led pitch 2. Got ropes stuck on descent! Bummer!
robertmichaellovell 2 Dec, 2012 AltLd yes this was really good, great day out - with a lot of rime!
with Fiona
yes this was really good, great day out - with a lot of rime!
with Fiona
mike.moss 4 Nov, 2012 AltLd dog
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 4 Nov, 2012 AltLd Clean apart from a false start when my axes blew and I ended up hanging upside down next to my belayer. Climbed in 3 pitches. I led to the top of the overhang, Mike led the main corner, then I got the rest. Abseiled off from the top of the Savage slit. Beautiful little climb on a beautiful day. Great conditions!
Clean apart from a false start when my axes blew and I ended up hanging upside down next to my belayer. Climbed in 3 pitches. I led to the top of the overhang, Mike led the main corner, then I got the rest. Abseiled off from the top of the Savage slit. Beautiful little climb on a beautiful day. Great conditions!
Hidden 1 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 1 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Emily
with Emily
geoff.comley 27 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Perfect start to the season. Been wanting to climb this route for ages. Led p1 to the main belay ledge. Simon finished up the final head wall/chimney. Sustained but never desperate and really safe. Psyched!!!!
with simon_D
Perfect start to the season. Been wanting to climb this route for ages. Led p1 to the main belay ledge. Simon finished up the final head wall/chimney. Sustained but never desperate and really safe. Psyched!!!!
with simon_D
simon_D 27 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Geoff did the hard bit, I led the traditional finish!
with Geoff
Geoff did the hard bit, I led the traditional finish!
with Geoff
Harry Holmes 4 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
with Joanna
with Joanna
jlismore 4 Feb, 2012 AltLd
with Ondrej EUMC
with Ondrej EUMC
horsefeathers 4 Feb, 2012 2nd dog
with Harry
with Harry
James Smith 28 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S did as 3 pitches to try keep it fair. sam did 1 and 3 while i did the main corner. never desperate but keeps you interested all the way! well worth its 3 stars in my book.
with sam
did as 3 pitches to try keep it fair. sam did 1 and 3 while i did the main corner. never desperate but keeps you interested all the way! well worth its 3 stars in my book.
with sam
Ally Smith 21 Jan, 2012 Lead dnf Ran away when the wind got stupid
Ran away when the wind got stupid
Adam Booth 13 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S Amazing climbing all the way, bomber hooks, good gear (and lots in situ). Do it as 1 60m pitch and rap off the slit belay, but take lots of quickdraws!
with Greg Boswell, Will Sim
Amazing climbing all the way, bomber hooks, good gear (and lots in situ). Do it as 1 60m pitch and rap off the slit belay, but take lots of quickdraws!
with Greg Boswell, Will Sim
Hidden 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Feb, 2011 AltLd dnf
Simon Yearsley 31 Jan, 2011 AltLd
with geezer
with geezer
Hidden 31 Jan, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
alkira ??, 2011 -
Lester 16 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S
with Conor Gahan
with Conor Gahan
Hidden 21 Nov, 2010 AltLd
Alco-nomic 14 Nov, 2010 - Easy for grade as crux is so well geared, great lead from Mike for his first route of the season
with mike
Easy for grade as crux is so well geared, great lead from Mike for his first route of the season
with mike
stevebarratt 10 Nov, 2010 Lead Fell out!
with Ant
Fell out!
with Ant
Hidden 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd
Pete Graham 20 Feb, 2010 Lead
with Luke Porter
with Luke Porter
Fatherof2 16 Feb, 2010 - 2nd main pitch steep enough ! Battle through deep hoar on top pitch
with Roger
2nd main pitch steep enough ! Battle through deep hoar on top pitch
with Roger
DJayB 6 Feb, 2010 Lead dnf Lead to above the block and backed off! Very slow work due to muchos rime. Should have done it really!
with rclarke
Lead to above the block and backed off! Very slow work due to muchos rime. Should have done it really!
with rclarke
rclarke 6 Feb, 2010 AltLd dnf slow work, so went home. really need to get it done though
with DJayB
slow work, so went home. really need to get it done though
with DJayB
Hidden 15 Feb, 2009 2nd
sgl 9 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
with viv
with viv
k2scott ??, 2009 -
Greg Boswell 9 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
mgeek ?Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S 2nd on the hard pitches. Starting to enjoy this Scottish mixed thing!
with adam hughes +Boswell
2nd on the hard pitches. Starting to enjoy this Scottish mixed thing!
with adam hughes +Boswell
akhughes ?Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Greg B
with Greg B
Hidden 24 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
hwackerhage 6 Apr, 2008 - Very well protected, hard but never too hard. A good climb to push the grade.
with Brian Duthie
Very well protected, hard but never too hard. A good climb to push the grade.
with Brian Duthie
Hidden 16 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 16 Mar, 2008 AltLd
with Burnsie
with Burnsie
Hidden 3 Dec, 2007 2nd
Brown 24 Nov, 2007 AltLd dnf Backed off due to bad weather above crux.
with Andy Hobbs
Backed off due to bad weather above crux.
with Andy Hobbs
Neil Adams 2 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S First grade VI!
First grade VI!
andyinglis 2 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S 1st VI, Neil got crux!
with neil adams
1st VI, Neil got crux!
with neil adams
Hidden ?Feb, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Chris Plewa ?Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?Mar, 2005 Lead dog As host on Int meet. Stupidly tried to do in one long pitch. Axes ripped near very top (way after true crux...) and funnily enough I fell off! Not funny for long-suffering partner though....
As host on Int meet. Stupidly tried to do in one long pitch. Axes ripped near very top (way after true crux...) and funnily enough I fell off! Not funny for long-suffering partner though....
Hidden ?Feb, 2003 -
Mark Stevenson ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with Helen Rennard
with Helen Rennard
phil64 ??, 1999 Lead Good, first grade6, straightforward with good gear
with stu mc
Good, first grade6, straightforward with good gear
with stu mc
charlesmfrench 1 Feb, 1998 AltLd O/S 2,L,L,2.
with Mark Vandome
2,L,L,2.
with Mark Vandome
James Gordon ?Jan, 1997 -
Hidden ?Oct, 1993 AltLd
Hidden ?Jan, 1992 AltLd
clanger ?Feb, 1990 -
with Martin Doyle
with Martin Doyle
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 34
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set