UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant climbing, one of the best of the grade in the area. Gain the beckoning tufa using pockets, then climb it to a lower-off. Placing the clips almost adds a grade. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
John Kettle 13/Jan Lead RP
BRoe 13/Jan Lead RP

1st go after putting in clips, incredible.

with John Kettle
dinodinosaur 30/Dec/17 TR dog

Started the redpoint process today. Worked all the moves and after three sessions on the rope managed to link the route in three sections before my feet were too painful to carry on climbing in the sun. Amazing route and definitely worth the approach, will be back to play the magic flute again.

with HannahC
rachelpearce01 18/Dec/17 TR

Went to check out this classic to see if it could be a go-er! Definitely the hardest thing I've ever tried to climb, not that I've really climbed any 7bs before. Tried on top rope two and half times! Best attempt was to the second clip of the tufa clean. Tufa is the hardest bit for me, sustained pinching with poor feet. The best holds on the tufa are quite slippy. Managed the lower pockets and crimps ok in the end, but still very hard 7a moves. Then at the top of the tufa i got a no hands rest before going for the jugs above. The rest I found ok after the rest. Look forward to trying again!

George_Surf 18/Dec/17 TR dog

3 tries on a rope. The low crux moving left to the hole is hard. Got it in the end. No rest so you have to fire straight in to the sustained tufa. A mixture of good and bad holds , with poor to improving feet. Speed is key here. At the top is a no hands rest (fell going for the jug) before a bouldery sequence getting in to the niche (half rest). A few long easier moves to the top. Walk in is a bit rough, stay low. From behind the right of the concrete shed, drop down to the level of the house, traverse across above the terraces to find the good path, stay low!

cjbaker 11/Apr/17 Lead

Felt hard! Embarrassing power scream by the top. Made it by the skin of my teeth. Good route, maybe slightly overhyped though.....

with Stephen
samparsons 15/Feb/17 2nd RP

Very hard to flash/onsight but got first go seconding just need to come back with a partner who isnt to hungry to carry on.

Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead RP
robertmichaellovell 01/Nov/16 Lead dog

see note on Elios ... still bolloxed, and it was hot. I've got all the excuses. Would love to come back to this one day

with Doug Sharpe
TRFrost 09/Apr/15 Lead RP
with J. Hulbert
James12389 07/Apr/15 TR dog
spidermonkey09 06/Apr/15 Lead dog

Gutted to have to leave this- so close three times but just didn't have the fitness and made silly mistakes. An incredible route, go and get on it! Will be back for this.

Hidden 31/Dec/14 Lead dog
Stoney Boy 07/Dec/14 Lead RP

Superb - Nice vista in these parts.

with Nick Conway
Nickc ?/Dec/14 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Apr/14 Lead RP
keefe 05/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Jan/13 Lead RP
ASchwirtz 01/Jan/13 Lead dog

Lead to first clip on tufa with clips in, second attempt top roped to top of tufa, third attempt top roped to top of tufa then lead to top. Must come back for this.

Hidden 01/Jan/13 Lead dnf
harvie 21/Feb/12 Lead RP
with Dan
NaomiHart 18/Feb/12 TR dog

Amazing climb! Must come back and lead when not so in need of a rest day

PeteH 18/Feb/12 Lead dog

Fourth day on, bit ambitious! Ran out of steam just before the no-hands rest. Will be back.

tim newton 24/Jan/12 Lead dog
with andreas & ulf
JBO 02/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route, maybe the best grade 7 sport route on the Costa Blanca? Did it as the sun set over the sea, it had just started to get dark as I left the tufa... I think putting the clips in must add to the grade, every clip was like a mini crux and harder than any other move!

willbatho ?/Dec/10 Lead dog
dominic lee 08/Apr/10 Lead RP
andi turner ?/Feb/06 Lead RP

the best sport route.

with grimer & mark sharratt
skygodley 23/Dec/05 Lead O/S

a great flute to play!

with SarahM
RD ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/97 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jan/97 Lead
Mike Owen 25/Dec/96 Lead O/S
with Tim Hatch, Elaine Owen
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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set