UKC

90m, 4 pitches.

SMC Description
90m. A natural system of grooves which is well protected and gives a good introduction to this type of climbing. As a result the climb is very popular and some of the turf has been lost. It starts up the diagonal fault but then takes the deepest groove running straight up the cliff on the right. Start at the right side of the main bay right of the lowest rocks.
1) 40m. Climb as much as 20m of icy ground leftwards to reach the top of the bay. Climb a blocky chimney and two short corners trending left to the foot of the main groove.
2) 10m. Climb a fault on the right (the left, Mixed Message, is harder), break left, then go right to the foot of the deepest section of groove.
3) 20m. Climb the groove and continue leftwards up the fault to the foot of a square, right-facing corner.
4) 20m. Climb the corner to a bulge at the top, swing left onto the edge and climb cracked slabs to finish. © SMC

UKC Logbook Description
Follow the diagonal break up and left crossing a few problematic steps, to below the much-photographed corner and belay. Climb the wonderful corner, step left and head up and left up grooves to the summit and belay. Can be done in two full 60m pitches (but have heard of people doing it in four.)

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Chasing the Ephemeral, Winter Aspirations.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 03/Apr AltLd rpt
mountain musher 21/Feb Lead
Robbie Blease 19/Feb 2nd O/S
with TRip
gingerking 18/Feb AltLd O/S

Possibly the longest ever ascent - 13 hours car to car! Great day out though, good conditions.

tom_drysdale 11/Feb Lead O/S

Wow, this got me psyched! Got a little bit avalanched the previous day and was a bit psyched out but this definitely sent the psych shooting back up! Really interesting climbing and felt pretty solid all the way

Guy Harris 11/Feb 2nd
JendeHoxar 11/Feb 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 11/Feb Lead O/S

Finally made it up the nice red line. 1st pitched winter route that wasn't desperate, climbed on purpose, all pitches in a day, in good conditions and topped in full daylight with warm and dry clothes. Even got back home before 11pm!

harry_lewis 10/Feb AltLd rpt
with Guy Harris, malcolm
Hidden 08/Feb 2nd
K Mckay 04/Feb AltLd

Terrible hot aches!

with Fraser Scott
Liam_T 03/Feb 2nd O/S
with Marl
Marl 03/Feb Lead O/S

Hard work when covered in snow, clearing cracks & looking for foot placements. Great route though. Abbed off after 3rd (crux pitch) otherwise would have been climbing last pitch in the dark.

with Liam
Hidden 02/Feb Lead O/S
thompsettjack 26/Jan AltLd O/S

Lead the crux corner. Super good!!

with jake
metrorat 26/Jan AltLd rpt

Did pitch one this time, Neil did 2&3. Great conditions, great fun.

Hidden 26/Jan AltLd rpt
nvalentine760 26/Jan AltLd O/S

Lead crux pitch

danJBA 22/Jan Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell
chris2451 21/Jan AltLd dog

led p1&3, first bit of mixed leading, took a fall on p1 but had a happy landing, p2 just amazing and super happy to get up it clean

with DJayB
DJayB 21/Jan AltLd O/S

That corner! Awesome

with Ben Dalgety, chris2451
Liam Watson 20/Jan Lead O/S
with Morna
davesa 20/Jan AltLd
John McKenna 20/Jan AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 3

AGilmour 20/Jan AltLd O/S

Led P1. 2nd pitch was excellent and was happy not to fall, but was glad not to have been leading it!

Mbaillie 20/Jan 2nd
Nathan2013 20/Jan 2nd O/S

Good route, good weather and good conditions. Got pumped on the big corner, other than that straightforward. Managed to salvage a Cam left from the pair ahead that gave up trying to get it out. private message me with make, size and marking colour and I’ll get it back to you.

justaddpowder 20/Jan Lead

Clear skies and easy walk in on consolidated snow. Very busy at the drag and followed a group up. Lead all pitches and made good speed. In good condition

with Nathan Robbins
Hidden 18/Jan Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jan AltLd
r_o_b_h2 13/Jan AltLd O/S

Brilliant route with some great climbing, albeit with rather short pitches. Topped out at dusk in the storm. Route in great condition.

with Fay
Hidden 11/Jan Lead
Andy Clark 07/Jan AltLd
Michael Aylen 07/Jan 2nd
with Graham
wheelsucker 07/Jan AltLd rpt
jaggy bunnet 06/Jan AltLd

Great route but hard with unhelpfull fresh powder.

picasso 06/Jan AltLd
Hidden 06/Jan AltLd
HimTiggins 05/Jan AltLd O/S
with Dave Menadue
jpc1 03/Jan Lead

Everything I wanted it to be. Excellent and pleased with my climbing. Still day, lean conditions, all good. I lead it all

with Dave S, Tom
BPaske 02/Jan AltLd
with Stephen Beard, Kitty
Hoyes 01/Jan AltLd O/S

Led pitches two and three in one. Did the harder left hand variation on pitch two (doh!). Good conditions. Great line.

with Exile
Rhys Deane ?/Jan 2nd
Little AndyH 30/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
with joe.91
joe.91 30/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

First proper route of the season, great route with some funky positions! Even cut loose non intensionally...

Simonfarfaraway 29/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

What a great climb.. Did it in 4 pitches!

with loz
Jo sumner 28/Dec/17 2nd
Hidden 28/Dec/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
murray 16/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Dónal Murray 14/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
with Joe Barlow
kipman725 11/Dec/17 -

Amazing climb. Did as 3 pitches, very fun.

Hidden 09/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/17 -
CacCarnBeag 01/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Led crux corner. Route was buried.

mdjb 28/Nov/17 2nd
mattc 27/Nov/17 Lead dnf

Not in the best condition. Found it a bit to hard and I was to tired. So abbed off. Can’t wait to go back!!

with mdjb
piken 26/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Kike Kikon 26/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
with flo1
flo1 26/Nov/17 -

Hardly any ice, powdery snow, but lots of axe placements. A great climb! We did it in three pitches.

Roberttaylor 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

I led p2

joeflan 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

lived up to the hype mega route

with chris downham, chrismoore
CMoore 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Top route. Bomber hooks all the way. Very enjoyable

with joeflan, Chris Downham
Oliver Smaje 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

p1

with Rob Taylor
Hidden 24/Nov/17 Lead
Hidden 24/Nov/17 -
Hidden 24/Nov/17 Lead
James Thacker 23/Nov/17 AltLd
with Kris Hill
Robertgiddy 19/Nov/17 Lead

Very nice, but harder than IV in my opinion - too sustained, although there is plenty of gear on it. Good conditions with an icy first pitch.

AmyG 05/Nov/17 AltLd rpt

Climbed this with Tom before. Cold day with the wind.

with noskki
noskki 05/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
with AmyG
WillHempstead ?/Nov/17 2nd
with Rob Giddy
Hidden 26/Apr/17 Lead
Barry Harper 26/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Stuart the postie 17/Apr/17 AltLd

Left van 06.30, frost & blue skies, fresh snow adorning the crag. Started climbing for 08.00 topped out mid day, a biting cold wind blowing. Back down at our sacks, crag thawing fast, one last route.......

with Graham Stein
DaveThexton 18/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Joe salter, Sasha doyle
Hidden 17/Mar/17 -
martinbettridge06 04/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
Col Kingshott 04/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Shitty snow on last pitch made it V, 6 for me that day.

neal 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2 (of 3) - the first corner. Excellent route, good gear, good hooks, a real pleasure.

with Stuart Mcleod
Hidden 03/Mar/17 -
Goodstuff 02/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Lead all three pitches. Fell on the crux corner, but caught myself on one axe, saving the onsight! Very technical and sustained, but great protection throughout- my favourite winter climb to date!

with Daniel McFarlane
Hidden 24/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Mike Dudley 24/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Chris led P1 (to top of easy blocky chimney) and I led the rest. Very powdery and no ice or neve so quite slow going but generally bomber hooks and great climbing. Took a variation finish at top as there was a party on the final corner - pulled onto arete to the right of the ledge and up the slabby face above to the top (balancey as it was up rounded granite breaks, which was exciting as the wind picked up towards the top). Overall, felt mid-V in the conditions encountered. Best day out this winter so far - from breaking trail in, to the quality climbing, to navving off by headtorch in a whiteout as the forecasted strong winds were arriving.

with Chris Warner, Duncan Bishop
Bish 24/Feb/17 2nd

Heavy powder difficult conditions pos. A grade harder according a couple of others spoken to route and Mike.

with Mike Dudley, Chris warner
andycash 13/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
LucaC 13/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

In 3 pitches, lead crux P2. Hard work in today's conditions.

Hidden 12/Feb/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/17 AltLd
metrorat 09/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Great climbing but tough going under the powder and spindrift blowing down. Turf was frozen, snow generally useless powder although there was some consolidation on the last pitch.. Done in 3 pitches. Sandy led 1, I led 2 & 3.

bodovix 05/Feb/17 Lead
Siobhann 28/Jan/17 -

Awesome climb. Tricky in places but great fun

with Al_Mac
Al_Mac 28/Jan/17 Lead

Second time on this route. Direct start over the slabs to avoid any potentially unfrozen turf. Good craic and plenty of abuse for placing gear to stop S from stepping left and away from the difficulties. Direct finish out of the groove.

Hidden 28/Jan/17 Lead
mark-abz 14/Jan/17 AltLd
with carr0t
Hidden 14/Jan/17 2nd
Hidden 14/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
scorpia97 14/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Fun route with bomber hooks and a fair bit of insitu gear.

carr0t 14/Jan/17 -

What an incredible route. interest on every pitch, but conditions are quite powdery. The crux was definitely the bit before the corner, which required delicate footwork and was probably a bit mean.

Hidden 10/Jan/17 AltLd
DavidMcK 05/Jan/17 AltLd

Lead the first and third pitches. Great route, solid gear and bomber hooks.

with AliRLee
AliRLee 05/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Lead the corner pitch. Super fun, well protected and sinker hooks

CharlieMack 03/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4. Bit thin conditions. Ice throughout but not much of it and turf definitely not frozen.

with Edward weldon , John allen
freudy_love 02/Jan/17 AltLd rpt
lanky ?/Jan/17 AltLd
with Crook
Gibson27 ??/2017 -
seanhendo123 27/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant line, solid hooks and gear all the way. Bit black today but turf was well frozen and enough ice (helpful and not so helpful) just not as aesthetically pleasing as it could have been...great route

with skirton
skirton 27/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Great to get onto a more technical climb that's well protected.

Jamie Skelton 23/Nov/16 Lead G/U
08nbrierley 23/Nov/16 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Nov/16 Lead
harry_lewis 10/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Good route

with Connor Read
CRead 10/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

First winter lead - can't say I enjoyed it at the time but I'm unbelievably psyched for more!

Malcolm Bass 07/Nov/16 AltLd rpt
with Simon Yearsley
Simon Yearsley 07/Nov/16 -
guitarshane 23/Apr/16 Lead
with Graham Lorimer
buffalo606 03/Apr/16 AltLd
cacheson 09/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led first long pitch, Jake got the next two short ones since he was much keener for the crux! Lots of powder, made the first pitch much more awkward than I imagine it would be normally. Lower crux required a bit of balance, but the upper crux didn't seem too bad at all. First tech 6 route, should have done one sooner.

stuart34 07/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with fat erik
stuart34 07/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
pingora 03/Mar/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Feb/16 AltLd rpt
davkeo 29/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Did p2 corner. Excellent route.

Alfie Maun 28/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Adam lead the 1st pitch, i lead the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Really fun route in good nick, consolidated snow where it was needed. Unbelievably good weather, not a cloud in the sky and next to no wind!

with Adam Bowman
Andy Hewison 27/Feb/16 Lead

Amazing weather, only ones on the route. Quite tough, but lots of hooks and well protected, would have been easier if there was some neve or a bit of ice in the cracks

with Drew Connelly
Hidden 26/Feb/16 AltLd
Rhys Macallister 23/Feb/16 AltLd

we were waiting for the crowds to clear before we did this and in the end we had it to ourselves. really worth doing and in great condition right now

with jack doyle
Hidden 23/Feb/16 AltLd
Mr Fuller 22/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4. First IV on lead, should have done one years ago.

with Rich T
Hidden 22/Feb/16 2nd
MSchobitz 20/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Great route, great gear and bomber hooks! Pretty windy at times, especially when belaying at the top.

with Adrian D
The old James turnbull 19/Feb/16 AltLd

Wild windy day. Did this again to be quick as weather was bad for the afternoon.

with aiden
Hidden 18/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Piers Harley 18/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

A proper day out!

with Paul Winder
geoff b 17/Feb/16 AltLd

A sustained groovy climb with lots of stonking gear. Fell off the initial move from the belay when a pick placement ripped & I punctured Nick's new jacket (oops!). Stunning belay below the last 20m on a ledge in the midday sun.

with Dr. Nick
Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Sam Ash 14/Feb/16 2nd O/S
with Tom Brown, JamieSparkes
waydan 12/Feb/16 2nd O/S

What a superb route

with Pete kayll, El Swiftos!
Davesmith1981 10/Feb/16 AltLd
with Owen Pearce
Gibbo 04/Feb/16 AltLd
with Rich A
Steven Andrews 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Led after the first pitch - cool climbing!

with Alex, Richard Lines
Hidden 31/Jan/16 AltLd
Marek Raganowicz 31/Jan/16 Lead
with Magda
Pete Graham 28/Jan/16 Lead
with Gael, Jeremy
niallsash 27/Jan/16 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 20/Jan/16 AltLd rpt

A very good route.

with Ally Hurst
Euan Todd 17/Jan/16 AltLd dnf

Gutted not to get this - ran out of time after waiting on another party to do a route which shares the first pitch. Really good climbing, I led p1 (banked out) and p2, McKinney led the crux corner, abbed off after that as it was getting late. p1+2 was probably IV 5 because of loose powder and lack of good gear from iced cracks, tech 6 moves up the corner were great fun on 2nd!

peter.ravenscroft27 16/Jan/16 -

Wow

Fatherof2 10/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Under alot of powder felt hard for a IV even with insitu gear. Abbed of after main corner due to failing light. Great climb made even more pleasant by banter with team battling up pot of gold!

with Ian
Knut 06/Jan/16 AltLd dnf

Led 1st pitch. Abseiled after fall on 2nd pitch. Pretty difficult conditions with lots of powder on route.

Hidden 06/Jan/16 2nd O/S
bencoope 06/Jan/16 AltLd dnf
with Knut
mjw ??/2016 AltLd dnf
with MB
drew8connelly ??/2016 -
nigel pearson 31/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

great climb robin led first and third, i led second.

with Robin
Colin Dyer 27/Dec/15 AltLd

Great route, keeps coming but always enjoyable.

with simon_D
leo-z-g 14/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Ended up traversing off after the corner because it was getting dark

wnicholson 14/Dec/15 2nd RP
Richard Abel 13/Dec/15 AltLd
Hugh Simons 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

In 3 pitches, led crux 2nd pitch. So beast!

DundeeDave 13/Dec/15 2nd

Wintery enough.

guitarshane 12/Dec/15 AltLd
Chrismith 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
chapmand 28/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Johannes
Johannes Petersen 28/Nov/15 AltLd
BrianShackleton 21/Nov/15 AltLd

First climb of the season. Robin and I followed Graeme Ettle, Jonathon Preston and Sarah Atkinson up first part of the route

RClothier 21/Nov/15 AltLd
graeme gatherer ?/Nov/15 -
with Steve Elliot
JackM92 01/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

Rod Strachan 31/Mar/15 AltLd
with Mike Brian
Hidden 15/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Tony Seale
Dansteck 14/Mar/15 2nd
with Will Mannors
alex toomey 10/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

fantastic final pitch, in great weather

AndyL 10/Mar/15 AltLd
mzchambers 04/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Lead second.

with Nathan
Nathan Adam 04/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

A superb mixed climb, lead first and last pitches.

bandersnatch 27/Feb/15 AltLd

Variation (direct) start halfway between Melting Pot and Messenger. Up slab to overlap (small fall....sloppy footwork!) into RF corner with pull out R to ledge. Rising R diagonal traverse to 2nd belay of Messenger (V7?). Followed Messenger to top. Ali lead P3 to exit.

with Al_Mac
Al_Mac 27/Feb/15 AltLd

Per Bandersnatch: Variation (direct) start halfway between Melting Pot and Messenger. Up slab to overlap into RF corner with pull out R to ledge. Rising R diagonal traverse to 2nd belay of Messenger (V7 Col reckoned?). Followed Messenger to top. Col led first two pitches through crux and then I led to exit.

rob16 25/Feb/15 AltLd
with Matt Brook
wi11 25/Feb/15 2nd rpt
with Tom G
1202alarm 25/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Great wee route. Done in two long pitches.

with Jamie Evans
aljones91 16/Feb/15 AltLd

Did in 4 short pitches what an awesome route!!!! Lead pitches two and four continuous interest throughout. Powder and spindrift made it hard work but well worth it.

with Ben hester
calumhicks 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Quality route like

with Adam Harris
Hidden 07/Feb/15 AltLd
s kennedy 06/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with michel mcghie
michael83 06/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

as expected, hooked out and in-situ gear all over the place. Enjoyed the climbing though. Three parties on the route at the same time with us stuck in the middle...

Hidden 05/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
OliverRoss 05/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Andrew1 30/Jan/15 AltLd
with Ben
chris smith 27/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/15 Lead O/S
andybroadway 24/Jan/15 2nd
olekemi 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

What a great route.

with Andy B, Mark G
Hidden 23/Jan/15 AltLd
Brian Pollock 17/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Gordon
gurumed 17/Jan/15 2nd dog

Bit of a baptism of fire! Pinged off a couple of times at the start.

Malcolm Bass ??/2015 -
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with Phil Bent
plain kitten ??/2015 -
alexm198 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

In two pitches. Lead P2, crux corner. Fairly steady, but quite awkward leaving the belay. Conditions are pretty good at the moment, just a bit powdery in places.

with Ross
Tim Rodgers 05/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 04/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Andy Nisbet 03/Dec/14 -

good early season conditions

graeme gatherer ?/Dec/14 -
with Rab, Steve Elliot
Hidden ?/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Spongebob ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
David Horwood 28/Mar/14 -
jamieevans ?/Feb/14 AltLd
aebewick 15/Jan/14 2nd
MonkeyDawson 12/Jan/14 AltLd
with James Gordon
adam clarke 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Jim led P1, Adam led P2 to P4 (P3+P4 combined)

with James Hulme
John sealey 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with john nesbit
Hidden 08/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
Richard Thombs 08/Jan/14 2nd rpt

Strong wind and windchill made this quite a challenge for me. The technicality was OK and the snow was good in many places, too soft for tools in others. Nearly blown off while doing the easy bit after the final crux!

with Mark Walker
petereynolds 04/Jan/14 AltLd
with Stu
edmitchell 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Phil Wake
AndyDWilson 04/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
Alexclimbs ??/2014 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Uisdean hawthorn 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
peter.herd 22/Dec/13 AltLd

In 2 pitches. Good route

with Uisdean Hawthorn
wi11 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
freudy_love 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Great weather, great mixed climbing conditions, great day out.

with Squirrel
Mine2209 22/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Rob Maxted
Hidden 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
ferdia 09/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

crux

graeme gatherer ?/Nov/13 -
Wojttek 13/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Danii
Hidden 17/Mar/13 2nd dog
annep 11/Mar/13 AltLd

Lead P1 and P3. Did in three pitches. Terrifying, but a cracking sunset and ace challenging moves.

masa-alpin 09/Mar/13 Lead dog

In very wintery conditions, where I had to excavate loads of powder snow in every move - hence hard! Took a very short fall a few metres below the crux due to carelessness - gutted... Sustained all the way and excellent climb!

with Lee P
jandyd05 23/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Good conditions though some cracks quite iced up. Found it hard due to lack of winter climbing this season but getting into it by the end

with Dave Kenyon
JRae 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Ben Silvestre, mwatson
kelliroberts3 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with merlin march, Pete Rigby
Pete Rigby 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Merlin March, Kelli Roberts
Hidden 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Gumery 03/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Interesting with wrist leashes

PAJames 01/Feb/13 -

http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/01-02-13-coire-t-sneachda-winter.html

benclimbing 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb. Bomber hooks where you need them and the route is in excellent condition at the moment. Great lead by Jamie B on the crux!

with Jamie Bankhead, graham boistelle
Jamie B 01/Feb/13 AltLd

Buttress well covered, but not too much clearing. Benchmark IV,6

with Ben Cooling, Graham Boistelle
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with michael kirby
clams ?/Feb/13 AltLd

Led P1

with PR&K
Strachan 31/Jan/13 2nd dog

Had a couple of rests on the crux corner. Hard work but good fun.

Hidden 31/Jan/13 AltLd
grp 31/Jan/13 Lead O/S
PeteLoveless 26/Jan/13 2nd
with Jon McCune
Adam Booth 25/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome!

with gowla
gowla 25/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with adam booth
furbrow 16/Jan/13 AltLd

Good conditions,very cold but cracks mostly free of ice. Dave made a good job of the crux.

with Dave A
al99 15/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Lots of powder to clear!

Hidden 15/Jan/13 AltLd
ollyroberts 14/Jan/13 Lead O/S

All pitches!

piersnewton 14/Jan/13 2nd O/S
wheelsucker 13/Jan/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jan/13 -
Hidden 01/Jan/13 AltLd rpt
Jay C 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Decent conditions, led the crux pitch

with Mark C
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden 30/Dec/12 AltLd
Gordon Lacey 27/Dec/12 -
Scott Rankin 27/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
joeydurkin 26/Dec/12 AltLd
with Jockey
abbeywall 26/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches

with K
centurion05 24/Dec/12 AltLd rpt
with Ben thynne
BFG 20/Dec/12 Lead O/S
buzby78 18/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing weather and a quality route. Nice steep 2nd pitch!

with Glenn
rufus.duits 17/Dec/12 Solo

Excellent conditions

Hidden 17/Dec/12 2nd dog
willhawkins 16/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Alpenglow 16/Dec/12 2nd dog

First winter climb. Understandably a few rests.

with willhawkins, NUMC
glenngordon 11/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with kenny o'brien, neill busby
Ben Sharp 10/Dec/12 AltLd
Andrew Sloan 10/Dec/12 AltLd

Led 2nd,3rd and 4th pitches. 3rd (crux) pitch has 10m of quite sustained technical 6 which I think warrants grade V.

with Ben Sharp
kes1 04/Nov/12 2nd
tom.e 03/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Calum
Hidden 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 23/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3

with Chris Vernon
Hidden 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Turf unfrozen, soft snow & no ice. Meant to climb Pot of Gold but I continued too far up the message by mistake. Kirill led the crux, after which we veered right and climbed the top pitch of Pot of Gold.

with Kirill
GaryK 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

A good day out considering the weather was worryingly warm on the walk in.

with James Edwards
nia 11/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
J1PEF 02/Feb/12 2nd

Good hooks, found very top corner the hardest!

with Neil Mackay
mark88 31/Jan/12 Lead
with Jennie Crook
Jen Crook 31/Jan/12 2nd
with Mark Patterson
The Mountain Goat 28/Jan/12 2nd
ksneds 28/Jan/12 AltLd

Brilliant route with nice hooks and gear where required.

with Jack
Somerset swede basher 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
roberts1234567890 24/Jan/12 2nd
with Kayan
Kayan 24/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Managed to outclimb the freezing level as it rose through the day, good nick. Quality corner pitch.

Keith-Getoutadventures 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

J p1, Me p2 + p3. Nice enough route, powder on all areas, Nae neve, turf where found was frozen, found getting up the step before the main crux the hardest bit, windy as fook at summit belay, almost froze solid. unsure if p3 was correct though.. went left after crux over blocks toward a bay, pulled up overhanging block then traversed right on thin powder covered edge then up twin cracks on a slab to the top. fucking scary and sketchy in the wind!

Hidden 23/Jan/12 AltLd
dan doran 08/Jan/12 -
Betha. 06/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Neil D
Neil D 06/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Betha.
Hidden 05/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
pete87abs ?/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley, rob
Pay Attention 20/Dec/11 2nd
Misha 19/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Great route, with good sections on all four pitches. In good condition, except that the crux corner pitch wasn't as white as I'd have liked it to be (but still in decent winter nick with a lot of the cracks chocked with snow and ice, so not much hooking on bare rock). Unconsolidated snow added to the fun, particularly at the top of P3. Great belays and good gear throughout. Not sure it's really tech 6 as all the hooks were really good but plenty of 5. Hardest IV I've ever done, deserves a V really as it's quite sustained, though the gear is good and there are plenty of rests. Started a bit late, towards noon. Paul led the easy section of P1 and I took over after that. After the crux corner I went left for a bit, then up and right and finished up Pot of Gold but don't think it made much difference. Got to a belay point 20 metres of easy ground away from the top just as it was getting dark. Paul took over two hours to second due to a combination of not being able to communicate (had radios but didn't bother getting them out, should have done!), having a poor head torch and finding it quite tough. Dropped down the Headwall to escape the wind and walked out in fresh snow, eventually picking up the track. Back at the car park around 9.30pm.

luckyjim 18/Dec/11 AltLd
with D Helm
freudy_love 17/Dec/11 AltLd rpt

A lot trickier than last time, quite a bit of unconsolidated snow and not as much helpful ice in the back of the corners. That, plus it seemed I was climbing like a donkey :D Good lead by Dave up the main corner.

with Dave Douglas
Dave Douglas 17/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Felt hard due to covering of snow the night before. My first tech 6 lead! I'll be a proper winter climber before long.

Hannah Evans 12/Dec/11 AltLd
Ken Applegate 12/Dec/11 AltLd

Led the crux corner and upper corner. Great route, with bomber gear and hooks. Crux was good fun!

Tom Livingstone 11/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with samrad
Mowglee 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely mobbed as usual on a Saturday, near enough only route that was free! Still nice climbing with some bullet hard ice.

samrad 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

did in 3 pitches. led 1 and 3.

with tom livingstone
Hidden 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd
ClimberMH 04/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Jacob Davies
Hidden 04/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 04/Dec/11 AltLd
The old James turnbull ?/Dec/11 AltLd
with aiden
Hidden ?/Dec/11 AltLd
Natalie feather ?/Nov/11 AltLd
BallsOfSteel 20/Oct/11 AltLd

settling a 3 year old grudge. good start to the season.

Hidden 20/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Hidden 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Jimmy1976 27/Feb/11 2nd O/S

'ard, but well protected.

tjmillen 12/Feb/11 Lead
with vicky
mikemartin 11/Feb/11 AltLd
Captain Solo 11/Feb/11 AltLd

Finally got round to doing this route to see what all the fuss was about. Good neve on ledges and even ice at the back of the crux corner which Mike led. I think climbing this route in powder and frozen gravel would be my idea of hell, great line though.

Hidden 10/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/11 Lead
Harry Holmes 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1 and 3. corner pitch was really nice, bomber hooks all the way. felt really secure too

Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S
rcammack 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Petarghh 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

"Emotional"

Jack Loftus 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the 3 main pitchs.

Hidden 05/Jan/11 2nd
stevebarratt 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with JadeL
Hidden 03/Jan/11 2nd dog
Martin Haworth 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with richard white
sebrider 02/Jan/11 AltLd

Great nick, lovely route :)

with Alex
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
alkira ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Dec/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Dec/10 -
Hidden 23/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Daniel Sutherland 22/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st Pitch, Fantastic

jfmchivall 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Great climb, well protected. Snow not quite consolidated, so pulling out of the crux groove was interesting.

with Iain Smith
Inti 21/Nov/10 AltLd
with John Chivall
wence 20/Nov/10 AltLd dog

One slip low down.

robertmichaellovell 20/Nov/10 AltLd

good fun

with Lawrence
t_stork 20/Nov/10 AltLd
with Steve Walls
SWalls 20/Nov/10 AltLd
with t_stork
Pete Graham 14/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with tom, James Monypenny
barni 14/Nov/10 2nd
with Rob
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd
Hidden 10/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
lachlan ?/Nov/10 AltLd
Daniel Sutherland 24/Oct/10 2nd dnf

A dropped Belay plate, Big Leader Fall. Decided enough was enough and Abbed off from the crux pitch, The route was in great nick though!

with Peter
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
simon_D 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

could do with a wee bit more consolidation freezing but in nick jus now, the top corner is a belter!

with Tom
Hidden 20/Oct/10 AltLd
SianR 20/Oct/10 2nd
with Jonnie and Emily
jonnie3430 20/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Emily, Sian
telemarker 17/Mar/10 2nd dog

Struggled up the route in not the best conditions, luckily the weather was good.

freudy_love 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Lovely day but bit warm and mushy. Everything dripping, water running down behind the ice and were getting bombed on all day long!! 2 good interesting tricky mixed corner pitches, both excellently protected.

with Stewart Munro
gaizka 23/Feb/10 2nd
with Dave
robertmichaellovell 14/Feb/10 AltLd
with tomdude
tomdude 14/Feb/10 AltLd

lots of snow! warm too. brilliant route

Hidden 08/Feb/10 AltLd
Ally Baba 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

a lot of snow about!!

with R. Mcmurry
John Pickles 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with 8848
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Callum T 06/Feb/10 AltLd dnf

Interesting day was had by all... Bit more air time than intended for both of us and we abbed off as the pull to the ceilidh was stronger than the pull to the plateau. Will definitely go back for another try.

with GraMc
GraMc 06/Feb/10 AltLd dnf

tried it under alot of rime and snow. fell on the last pitch after getting pumped clearing snow for gear. a hex and peg held myt fall but we decided to call it a day and abbed off

Hidden 27/Jan/10 2nd
Tile Diver ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Bloody tough climbing!!

with Rossi
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 31/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Chad123 20/Dec/09 AltLd rpt

Very cold and super icy which made the route easier and a bit bolder especially at the top....2 hours to do the route then 5 hours to drive back to Edinburgh on a snowy A9!!

with Steve and Humble
D.Russell 18/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
andymoin 13/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Very easy nick, pre made ice hooks all the way! Great climbing tho, will be back to do it in a blizzard and a foot of powder rime.

with Niel Silver
Sandy Simpson 12/Dec/09 AltLd
with rob1
geoff.comley 12/Dec/09 2nd O/S

First steep mixed climb, another quality day in the Norries

Pete Main 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Also Sandy Simpson joined us.

with Rab
rob1 12/Dec/09 AltLd
Greg Boswell 07/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/09 AltLd rpt
lachlan 02/Dec/09 -
with James MacLeod
jay.mac 02/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
with lachlan
Lawrie Brand 29/Nov/09 2nd O/S

An interesting introduction to steep mixed climbing, with interesting weather to match

with Al Goodridge
Hidden 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Alco-nomic ?/Nov/09 AltLd

great finish

with Andy Wardle
Hidden ?/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Chad123 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Great fun, lead all pitches (Mallards 3rd winter route!) - lots of interest on all pitches especially the crux corner. Windy on the plateau!

with Jo
Hidden 06/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/09 AltLd
manmike 24/Jan/09 Lead
Ste Ridd 24/Jan/09 2nd dnf

Crux-get high up in the corner then reach up high on left-hand wall. Right hand wall crack also possible.

with manmike
Neilm18 23/Jan/09 2nd dnf
with Mark020
Hidden 23/Jan/09 Lead dnf
markjarvie ??/2009 -
with scott becker
gaz.marshall 14/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve H
mgeek ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Stated up Melting put but took longer than expected, so finnished up the 2nd and 3rd pitches of Message!

with Rob Aide
jazzyjackson 01/Nov/08 AltLd

hooking and torquing a plenty. Some wild moves but thankfully great gear throughout. Brilliant.

with JAMES K
French Erick 28/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
dancurrie 26/Mar/08 AltLd
with Mike Coppock
mikecopp 26/Mar/08 AltLd
with Dan Currie
breithorn4164 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Superb torque fest

with Jackson
Matthallinan 11/Mar/08 AltLd
with Jon Winter
Hidden ?/Jan/08 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
peebles boy ??/2008 2nd
Alasdair Fulton 30/Dec/07 AltLd
with Malcolm
peterp ?/Dec/07 AltLd
with Sully
James W ?/Dec/07 -

best mised route ive done in scotland, climbing at my limit after 3 yrs out

with graeme
Brown 25/Nov/07 AltLd dnf

Backed off due to one of party unable to follow

with Andy Hobbs
Jim Haydock 09/Mar/07 2nd
with Stuart Mc aleese
dave_tomlin 18/Feb/07 2nd

awsome route, though was a little bare which made it destinctly tricky

with Tom Evans
barney_edin 05/Feb/07 AltLd
with Adam H
akhughes ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
sgl 22/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with henry
Jim Haydock 09/Mar/06 2nd
with G. Ettle & Owen Samuels
Hidden ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/06 2nd O/S
alpinist63 ?/Jan/06 Lead
Neil Adams ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 20/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bryant
andyinglis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
Dangerous Dave ??/2005 Lead O/S
ruaridhmac 21/Nov/04 AltLd

Very poor, no ice!

with Dave Cowan
whispering nic ?/Nov/04 AltLd
with Tweedley
Jamie Simpson ??/2004 AltLd O/S

Good conditions.

with Andy Munro
Mark Stevenson 28/Dec/03 Lead dnf
with Ian (AMA)
Hidden ??/2003 -
mikeyjbs 29/Dec/02 2nd dog
with will woodhead
towdman 18/Dec/02 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Jan/02 2nd
Ally Smith ??/2002 Lead dnf

Date a guess; sometime between 2002 & 2006. Backed off after first pitch as Emily couldn't second

with EmilyG
frost ?/Feb/01 -
Yourlead 19/Jan/01 2nd
with Graham Penny
Hidden 04/Nov/00 AltLd
Dave Kerr 27/Dec/99 Lead
with Iain Sharpe
NeilGriffiths 04/Dec/99 -
with James, Simon
dangates 08/Jan/99 AltLd

MRT call out!

with Alison Davey/ Pete Watson
Hidden 17/Jan/98 AltLd O/S
innes ??/1998 AltLd O/S
James Gordon ??/1998 -
Lone Rider ??/1998 AltLd
Yourlead 28/Dec/97 2nd dnf

1st oitch only then up Hybrid?

with Graham Penny
tlr 14/Feb/97 AltLd
with Pete D
TobyA 02/Jan/97 AltLd O/S

Heavy conditions. Crazy weather. Great Stuff.

with Ed
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/95 AltLd O/S
tompercy ?/Dec/94 AltLd
with Joel Telling
Hidden ?/Feb/94 -
pingora 12/Dec/93 AltLd O/S
with Blaggers
TheAndyBarker ?/Jan/93 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/89 AltLd
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 89
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 82
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set