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Ticklists

Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Winter 2018/19

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
BPaske 22 Dec, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 10 Dec, 2018 AltLd
Captain Solo 10 Dec, 2018 AltLd Surprisingly good nick, helpful neve and ice on the ledges, crux ok.
with jeremy
Surprisingly good nick, helpful neve and ice on the ledges, crux ok.
with jeremy
piken 4 Dec, 2018 - classic 3*** felt like a proper old school climb
classic 3*** felt like a proper old school climb
maguires 4 Dec, 2018 2nd
with piken
with piken
Misha 1 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S First outing of the season to blow away the icy cobwebs and remind ourselves that: 1. Not working on the hill fitness apart from a few mountain crag walk ins over the summer will mean you will almost die on the walk in (me). 2. Losing a crampon towards the top of the first pitch won’t make it any easier (Tom). We picked it up below the crag though, so all good. 3. Reading thr guide book properly is useful (all three of us). On the crux P2 I headed up the obvious corner crack, which proved to be absolutely nails! Rounded wide crack, poor hooks, crap feet and fiddly gear. At one point I almost fell off when both feet and an axe skittered off but held onto the other axe which was in a horizontal stein in the crack. I’ve done easier VIIs! Easily solid VI 7. Turns out you’re supposed to go up the wall right of the corner... 4. You can still get hot aches, twice, even on a nice day with temperatures just below freezing and no wind (me). Tom P1, me P2 to the top of the corner crack, Mark P3 (which is the second half of the official P2, that chimney is fine), Tom P4 up easy ground.
First outing of the season to blow away the icy cobwebs and remind ourselves that: 1. Not working on the hill fitness apart from a few mountain crag walk ins over the summer will mean you will almost die on the walk in (me). 2. Losing a crampon towards the top of the first pitch won’t make it any easier (Tom). We picked it up below the crag though, so all good. 3. Reading thr guide book properly is useful (all three of us). On the crux P2 I headed up the obvious corner crack, which proved to be absolutely nails! Rounded wide crack, poor hooks, crap feet and fiddly gear. At one point I almost fell off when both feet and an axe skittered off but held onto the other axe which was in a horizontal stein in the crack. I’ve done easier VIIs! Easily solid VI 7. Turns out you’re supposed to go up the wall right of the corner... 4. You can still get hot aches, twice, even on a nice day with temperatures just below freezing and no wind (me). Tom P1, me P2 to the top of the corner crack, Mark P3 (which is the second half of the official P2, that chimney is fine), Tom P4 up easy ground.
Mark Stevenson 1 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
CMoore 25 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Ed Newcombe
with Ed Newcombe
Colin Dyer 28 Oct, 2018 AltLd First route of the season. To echo other comments here, with no build up and under powder, this is considerably harder than the guidebook grade of IV,6. The crux crack is mega burly in these conditions.
with Rich Parker
First route of the season. To echo other comments here, with no build up and under powder, this is considerably harder than the guidebook grade of IV,6. The crux crack is mega burly in these conditions.
with Rich Parker
Kirill 26 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf Climbed only about 10 metres and fell. Decided not to continue.
Climbed only about 10 metres and fell. Decided not to continue.
John sealey 5 Mar, 2017 AltLd
with james gordon
with james gordon
Hidden 27 Feb, 2017 AltLd
tom_drysdale 14 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Another excellent day out! Planned to do the hoarmaster but couldn't get to it so did this instead. Route was harder than expected and a bit powdery in places so gear was hard to find, especially on the top out. Great fun though! Got back to Sheffield at 5am on Monday... didn't make it to my 9am
Another excellent day out! Planned to do the hoarmaster but couldn't get to it so did this instead. Route was harder than expected and a bit powdery in places so gear was hard to find, especially on the top out. Great fun though! Got back to Sheffield at 5am on Monday... didn't make it to my 9am
MSchobitz 12 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P1&2. Bit of a grovel on p1. Had to dangle pack b/w legs for a few moves. Wall at start of p2 was definitely tech 6, lack of neve made gaining the ledge feel hard. Chimney was indeed awkward, then maybe got off route a bit? Line isn't easy to follow between bottom chimney and top gully. Masses of powder didn't make it easier. Nice lead by Tom on p3, tricky, unprotected moves up the wall to the rhs of the gully, though there were no flakes mentioned in the guidebook? Top end IV. Top day out!
Led P1&2. Bit of a grovel on p1. Had to dangle pack b/w legs for a few moves. Wall at start of p2 was definitely tech 6, lack of neve made gaining the ledge feel hard. Chimney was indeed awkward, then maybe got off route a bit? Line isn't easy to follow between bottom chimney and top gully. Masses of powder didn't make it easier. Nice lead by Tom on p3, tricky, unprotected moves up the wall to the rhs of the gully, though there were no flakes mentioned in the guidebook? Top end IV. Top day out!
MrRiley 5 Feb, 2017 AltLd dnf should of heeded michael83's warning... too slow and crux just too much on the day - it is nails without buildup on the belay ledge, bailed. Good lead by Ben on first pitch. Thanks to other teams for great banter, throwing our anchor down after the ab and for the puncture wounds on my arm ;-)
with ben_lea
should of heeded michael83's warning... too slow and crux just too much on the day - it is nails without buildup on the belay ledge, bailed. Good lead by Ben on first pitch. Thanks to other teams for great banter, throwing our anchor down after the ab and for the puncture wounds on my arm ;-)
with ben_lea
Hidden 5 Feb, 2017 AltLd dnf
Hidden 5 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 4 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
kbow265 20 Nov, 2016 2nd Sling harness, one front point.
Sling harness, one front point.
aljones91 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 9 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
michael83 9 Jan, 2016 AltLd dog Not quite the three star classic i was expecting. Don't climb this under powder! first pitch was a grovel, 2nd pitch was good until my axe ripped whilst digging through 2foot of powder to find gear above the wall. top out on the last pitch was horrendous on 80degree powder snow on slabs. Tried to pass chockstone on the left, but too tricky, ended up taking the right exit which was no push over. Sustained IV with multiple tech 6 akward moves in lean conditions which makes it more like V. In short, climb it when everything is consolidated and it's banked out!
with Mark020
Not quite the three star classic i was expecting. Don't climb this under powder! first pitch was a grovel, 2nd pitch was good until my axe ripped whilst digging through 2foot of powder to find gear above the wall. top out on the last pitch was horrendous on 80degree powder snow on slabs. Tried to pass chockstone on the left, but too tricky, ended up taking the right exit which was no push over. Sustained IV with multiple tech 6 akward moves in lean conditions which makes it more like V. In short, climb it when everything is consolidated and it's banked out!
with Mark020
Hidden ?Feb, 2015 -
Hidden ?Jan, 2015 AltLd dog
libby.southgate ?Jan, 2015 -
with MarcusP
with MarcusP
Steven Carter ??, 2015 AltLd O/S
Malcolm Bass ??, 2015 -
Nick Wallis ??, 2015 -
with Phil Bent
with Phil Bent
adie84 29 Dec, 2014 -
andymoin 28 Dec, 2014 AltLd
with adw07
with adw07
Hidden 28 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
mim tiller 7 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
John McKenna 7 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Partner lead crux
Partner lead crux
Martin McKenna - UKC 7 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jan, 2014 AltLd
jonnie3430 21 Nov, 2013 AltLd Thought the crux interesting for tech 6 in lean conditions.
with Henry
Thought the crux interesting for tech 6 in lean conditions.
with Henry
Hidden 2 Jan, 2013 AltLd dnf
Liam Ingram 2 Dec, 2012 AltLd dnf The disgustingly awkward 1st pitch (3 stars really?) took ages so we retreated before crux. There is now a nice in situ belay there and if anyone fancies returning it that would be great.
with blouise
The disgustingly awkward 1st pitch (3 stars really?) took ages so we retreated before crux. There is now a nice in situ belay there and if anyone fancies returning it that would be great.
with blouise
simon_D 30 Nov, 2012 AltLd
with Karen, Geoff
with Karen, Geoff
geoff.comley 30 Nov, 2012 AltLd First pitch was spent more on the knees than poons. 2nd pitch up the crux wall was safe but in the conditions was pretty desperate. Third pitch don't think we were on route as it was prob another tech 5/6 move. Loads of rime. Topped out in the dark with head torch in the bag at the bottom of the route. Then a 2 hr down climb in the dark landed us at the bags. 12hrs car to car.
with simon_D
First pitch was spent more on the knees than poons. 2nd pitch up the crux wall was safe but in the conditions was pretty desperate. Third pitch don't think we were on route as it was prob another tech 5/6 move. Loads of rime. Topped out in the dark with head torch in the bag at the bottom of the route. Then a 2 hr down climb in the dark landed us at the bags. 12hrs car to car.
with simon_D
AmyG 4 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S
with carlos
with carlos
oliverk 4 Nov, 2012 AltLd Hard. Great lead by Tim on crux, other pitches also pretty interesting
with Tim E
Hard. Great lead by Tim on crux, other pitches also pretty interesting
with Tim E
Rob84 23 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S First pitch of Sidewinder and top two pitches of Western Route
with Brian Seery
First pitch of Sidewinder and top two pitches of Western Route
with Brian Seery
tommytuffa 19 Dec, 2011 Lead dnf Not sure we were on the right route... certainly weren't when i took leader fall (stopped by factor 2 onto ice axe leash) 5m from top of crag trying to climb ourselves out of dead end gully in dark.. quite an adventure in the end.. not quite an epic.
with ollie b
Not sure we were on the right route... certainly weren't when i took leader fall (stopped by factor 2 onto ice axe leash) 5m from top of crag trying to climb ourselves out of dead end gully in dark.. quite an adventure in the end.. not quite an epic.
with ollie b
Hidden 28 Nov, 2011 -
Hidden 12 Feb, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 12 Feb, 2011 AltLd
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 25 Oct, 2010 Lead
Hidden 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jan, 2010 2nd
Greg Boswell 30 Nov, 2009 AltLd O/S
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ??, 2009 -
Hidden 15 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
Pete Main ?Nov, 2008 AltLd
with Andrew S
with Andrew S
Fatherof2 25 Feb, 2008 - Quite a battle wind and snow
with Roger
Quite a battle wind and snow
with Roger
Jim Haydock 8 Mar, 2007 2nd
with Stuart Mc aleese
with Stuart Mc aleese
French Erick 21 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S Good interesting wee climb, each pitch have some interest. Pitch two was harder with very little snow on bay (normal belay 2m from the ground. Pitch 3 is non descript gully III climbing with wind slab yesterday.
with DaveHK
Good interesting wee climb, each pitch have some interest. Pitch two was harder with very little snow on bay (normal belay 2m from the ground. Pitch 3 is non descript gully III climbing with wind slab yesterday.
with DaveHK
DaveHK 21 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Erick and Jim
with Erick and Jim
Hidden ??, 2007 -
ian bryant ??, 2007 -
Hidden 18 Feb, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?Dec, 2003 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
with Andy Hyslop
Yourlead 30 Nov, 2003 AltLd Supurb climb with no real build up & verglas
with Graham Penny
Supurb climb with no real build up & verglas
with Graham Penny
charlesmfrench 23 Jan, 2003 AltLd O/S L,L,L,L,2.
with Mark Vandome
L,L,L,L,2.
with Mark Vandome
Dave Almond ?Oct, 2002 Lead
with James Hubbard
with James Hubbard
James W ?Feb, 2001 -
with walter
with walter
nickdonohue ?Jan, 2000 AltLd
with Jon Aylward
with Jon Aylward
Hidden ??, 2000 -
prcleary ??, 2000 Lead O/S Have done this twice - can't remember who with or when
Have done this twice - can't remember who with or when
Andy Clark 6 Dec, 1998 AltLd
with Burnsie
with Burnsie
Hidden 6 Dec, 1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 1998 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 1998 AltLd
tlr 15 Feb, 1997 AltLd
with Pete D
with Pete D
James Gordon ?Mar, 1996 -
Hidden 4 Jan, 1996 AltLd
clanger ??, 1996 -
with Client
with Client
pingora 23 Mar, 1993 AltLd O/S
mark-abz ?Dec, 1992 AltLd
with Keith M
with Keith M
Neil McA 27 Dec, 1989 AltLd dnf early season failure on the crux in lean conditions
with Martin Mandel
early season failure on the crux in lean conditions
with Martin Mandel
Bruce Kerr 14 Dec, 1986 AltLd
with Neville Elstone
with Neville Elstone
32 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 18
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set