UKC

SMC Description
100m. An interesting line up the linked diagonal breaks just right of Original Route. Start below an open groove at the top left corner of the bay right of the narrow rib forming the left side of the buttress.
Climb the groove to a steepening which forces you out on to steep but helpful ground on the right (unless the groove is iced). Climb this sustained section (needs to be frozen!) to an easing, then follow a smooth but low-angled ramp right to its end in the central bay. Go diagonally right to below an obvious break leading back left (or continue right to the final corner of Doctor's Choice, which may be temptingly icy). Follow this break, then climb the buttress crest. The abseil descent into Aladdin's Couloir is an option. © SMC

Ticklists: Winter 2018 Dreamlist.


ClimberDateStyle
Naomi Havercroft 23/Feb 2nd
with Gareth Davies
griffithpatrick 11/Feb 2nd O/S

first two pitches

adw07 13/Jan AltLd O/S
with Tom Jumar
tjmillen 07/Jan AltLd
with Charlie
Charlie Zephyr Booth 07/Jan AltLd O/S
with tim millen
Hidden 16/Dec/17 2nd O/S
ecromwell 16/Dec/17 2nd

Quite a tricky first pitch! Got horrific hot aches. Interesting climbing in great conditions!

alexm198 16/Dec/17 Lead O/S

I love lamp.

Hidden 11/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Led the easy second pitch. Good lead by Roger of the gnarly first pitch. Third pitch much harder than it looks with a sting in the tail. Very enjoyable first route of the season.

with Roger Waterworth
Hidden 09/Mar/17 2nd
Hidden 05/Mar/17 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 02/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with davkeo
davkeo 02/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Solid lead by Rich on p1. Excellent pitch with some technical moves to get up into the grove and then some really sweet climbing with good hooks & bridging. Slab was easy enough to cross. P2 was easier but also had some nice climbing and good turf.

with Rich Kendrick
Hidden ?/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 23/Feb/17 2nd
metrorat 23/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Did pitch 1 of the Lamp, felt a bit tough under lots of powder but some great moves, quite a thin start. Then we missed our turning and continued up Original route, which felt like the natural line. Pitch 2 of original route was quite challenging with no ice in the corner, powder bashing all the way. Abbed into Alladins couloir and all the way down due to high avalanche risk. I managed to set off a slide, very glad we decided to ab the whole thing.

with Adam Archibald
DaveThexton 11/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Tim Bevan 11/Feb/17 AltLd

Dropped glove on second pitch, amazingly found it waiting for me at the bottom of the first pitch after using spare gloves for the rest of the route!

Hidden 24/Feb/16 -
jonskippy 20/Feb/16 -
benclimbing 20/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
MSchobitz 13/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

As consolidation prize after getting spanked on The Genie/Magic Crack. Led P1. There is also no way that this is the same grade as Belhaven.

oliverk 31/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 3

with Shauna
HosteDenis 31/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Led first (crux) pitch, then continued on in Original Summer Route which looked more interesting

with Friedemann
calumhicks 27/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Hugh Simons 27/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

First Grade V! Calum led the crux 1st pitch and easy ramp 2nd pitch, and I led the 3rd to the top which has some short technical sections, but not as sustained as the 1st pitch. Topping out to sunset over Cairn Toul was great, awesome day!

Craig Holden 03/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Jake Dowell
gergosantha 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
SteveJCox 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
jonnie3430 24/Jan/15 AltLd

Quality, fun route.

with Stuart, Neil
Hidden 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
abbeywall 25/Dec/14 AltLd

Led traverse p2.

with FM
Tim Rodgers 13/Dec/14 AltLd
with David Forster
Hidden 21/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
nickwhimster 21/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of snow - difficult to find the top of the route as was buried. The first pitch was interesting though!

with Nick Whimster
Hidden 28/Feb/14 AltLd
Hidden 27/Feb/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
simon kimber 17/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull 17/Jan/14 AltLd
with simon kimber
dougp87 12/Jan/14 AltLd
lukehunt 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Doug
malteserEd 11/Jan/14 2nd
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
John sealey 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with john nesbit
Hidden 09/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/13 -
Clevelandclimber 22/Feb/13 -

Did first pitch of this which Andy led (really good) then went left instead of right and finished up original route. Good value tho.

with Jim Watchorn, Andy Brown
Bob1984 28/Jan/13 2nd dnf

1st pitch

pwb1981 28/Jan/13 2nd

Did the first pitch after doing the first pitch of Ordinary summer route. Topping out not an option due to weather

robertmichaellovell 26/Jan/13 AltLd
with Tom
tomdude 26/Jan/13 AltLd
with rob
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
willhawkins 18/Dec/12 Lead O/S

First pitch is ace- steep and reasonably technical but on really good hooks. Actually found the pitch after the traverse the scariest bit- may have just been conditions on the day but there there were some pretty sketchy moves way above gear- not sure what I did wrong!

Simon Yearsley 17/Dec/12 AltLd
with Helen Rennard
SWalls 02/Dec/12 AltLd
with Peter Herd, Rory Brown
Hidden 02/Dec/12 AltLd
peter.herd 02/Dec/12 2nd

First pitch was awesome - bridging on edges and big hooks. Powdery!

with Rory Brown
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Dec/11 AltLd
BallsOfSteel 17/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/11 AltLd
mynyddresident 15/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Retreat just before ledge, barely able to keep my eyes open in the maelstrom. Nice climbing mind..

wolf.leeb 15/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

Winter climbing lesson 0446.. Gale force spindrift hurts.

with nic
rcammack 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome moves, bit tricky under powder!

Harry Holmes 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

really enjoyable. i lead pitches 1 and 3

Hidden ??/2011 -
geoff.comley 27/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Yet another day in faithful sneachda. Really enjoyed this route, two really good pitches. First crux pitch is a bit awkward and crux on second pitch is on bomber axe placements, personally think two stars. Conditions ok. Pat had a wee ride 200ft ish on a slab avalanche was ok but a stark reminder of the dangers. Keep safe!!

Alco-nomic 27/Dec/10 AltLd

nice steep grade V loads of pro.

with Geoff
Hidden 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
mulletcocktail2000 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with drew
Hidden 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
michael83 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark, Tris
Smelly Fox 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Quite good.

jason 13/Mar/10 AltLd
with manmike
manmike 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

did the first pitch(crux) of the Lamp and continued on Original Route - nice combination.

with Jason
al99 17/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

The last climb I did with a wonderful and inspirational guy!

with Rupert Rosedale
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S
theflyingpaddy ??/2006 -
Yourlead 11/Dec/05 2nd
with Graham Penny
Hidden ?/Jan/00 AltLd
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
James Gordon ??/2000 -
dangates ??/1999 -
with Kirk Watson
Hidden 24/Jan/98 Lead
Hidden 05/May/97 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 05/May/97 AltLd
with Burnsie
pingora 03/Mar/94 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 31
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set