The only obvious blue ice in the couloir. A short ice wall leads to an in situ belay. The upper reaches of the normal route offer some superb scenery.
Very suitable for learners.
Can vary hugely in difficulty and length depending on the current conditions.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, CUMC Ticklist.

Katie S 17/Feb TR
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/16 Solo
guy757 30/Mar/16 -
LanceSolf 30/Mar/16 2nd O/S
cdoclarky59 30/Mar/16 -
Andy Nisbet 29/Mar/16 Solo
Elsier 28/Mar/16 2nd

Steep at the moment but ice fat and soft enough to be perfect for climbing

ladislav 28/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Adrian, Elsie
martinbettridge06 24/Mar/16 Lead rpt
david harvey 24/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with martin
Neil Hamlet 24/Mar/16 2nd O/S

FOT Wilf and Gregor

with Wilf - Climb Now
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead
coachmacca 18/Mar/16 AltLd

Led the first ice pitch then swing lead , first grade 4

with Davy Wright
Sutty22 18/Mar/16 2nd

Cracking day looking down on a cloud inversion in the valley. Ice was wet, still pretty solid but clearly thinning fast. I struggled with the icefall due to not really climbing for 2 years. Quick romp up the snowfield above for lunch in the sun.

cacheson 09/Mar/16 Lead rpt

15 minutes bottom to top to bottom: abbed off after the interesting bit. Really banked out at the bottom so much shorter than usual. Still pretty steep, but nice big ledges making it easy to place screws. Did this after 5pm, was nice to have the whole corrie to ourselves.

ModerateMatt 03/Mar/16 AltLd

Niall lead 1st and last pitch's. I lead the 2nd and then decided to go up a chimney to the right, we decided wrong. The snow was horrible and chossy, all rocks were thickly coated so gear was thin, I finished the pitch beside a giant boulder on the crest of a small arete. ended up abbing off a pin and finishing the way we should have hours earlier.

with Niall
nwakeman 01/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Jim Wilson
DaveThexton 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Robertgiddy 28/Feb/16 Lead

good conditions

Jenn_Stretton 28/Feb/16 2nd
sadams 26/Feb/16 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Mr Messy 18/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with No.1 son
mzchambers 18/Feb/16 2nd O/S

Second jack and abb off

with Jack
Hidden 15/Feb/16 TR
stevelismore 15/Feb/16 TR O/S

A guide was showing some of his clients how to do it so we got him to set up a top rope. Really should have led it!

edwards_nicholas 15/Feb/16 TR
with NinaR
Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/16 Lead
Hidden 13/Feb/16 2nd
connor_furness 13/Feb/16 2nd O/S

First winter climb. Found little ice, but of good quality. Some exciting climbing, not too difficult.

SUColdo 12/Feb/16 AltLd
Chipper 12/Feb/16 AltLd

vertical ice

Kahti 11/Feb/16 2nd
Captain Solo 07/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with Brian
Hidden 06/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 04/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/16 2nd O/S
gilmour_789 28/Jan/16 Lead
with Chris Connolly
ianstevens 21/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Lead ice pitch and top two pitches. Gullies banked out with ALOT of powder and the ice a little lean and on the steep side - probably a bit of tech 5 involved.

joedean 21/Jan/16 AltLd
elliptic 16/Jan/16 Lead

Worth tech 5 today.

with Max
joedean ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Keo ??/2016 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Apr/15 AltLd
David Kay 02/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Ewanski 29/Mar/15 -
with Bruce M
QuicNic 29/Mar/15 2nd

Good conditions. Only 15m of steep ground.

Brucemacrosson 29/Mar/15 -
with Ewanski
nicjbuk 25/Mar/15 AltLd
with paul freeman
hamishjfk 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

First of our three routes still in good condition good climb

with Andy Wilson
Hidden 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton 10/Mar/15 Lead dnf
with Mollie Hughes
chrismcd23 10/Mar/15 2nd
with matt thornton, molly hughes, Scott C
pingora 05/Mar/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Mar/15 2nd
Hidden 03/Mar/15 Lead
Col Kingshott 01/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Good condition.

michaelb1 01/Mar/15 Lead

Stepped in good nick

with carlh
carlh 01/Mar/15 2nd
Hidden 28/Feb/15 Lead
Hidden 27/Feb/15 Lead O/S
waydan 26/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Steve Broadbent 25/Feb/15 -

Pretty good condition today, though possibly a little steeper than sometimes on the crux. In general the ice is good and snow couloir above not too bad. Great route.

Hidden 25/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Roberttaylor 25/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Abbed after the difficulties. Fat and hooked out. Felt low in the grade

cacheson 25/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Great ice in fantastic nick

magicmartin 25/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Awesome ice today.

with Ryan
Hidden 24/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/15 Lead
Hidden 20/Feb/15 2nd
j.buckley87 20/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Nice bit of ice, climbed in combination with a route that finished up a chimney to the left of pygmy ridge (possibly grade III) which made for a great day.

Hidden 20/Feb/15 Lead
alexm198 19/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 'ice' pitch. Quality of the ice was atrocious, was basically a steep pile of slush.

with Scott
Nemo9 19/Feb/15 Lead
with Karl
Karlos 19/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Seconded main pitch. Very wet, with exposed traverse right to avoid brittle chandeliers on the left.

with Random
andrzej kierzek 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Very windy. No way to top up. Considerable avalanche risk forecast. Perfect ice on the route. I lead the route and we abseilef from in situ tat at the top.

bobpilgrem 14/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Great pitch-decent ice-short and steep. Ab from in situ gear.

with Tim
Hidden 14/Feb/15 2nd
tim20 14/Feb/15 Lead
davesa 13/Feb/15 2nd
fait 13/Feb/15 Lead
aljones91 12/Feb/15 Lead


with Ben hester
CharlieMack 11/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Tom
jamesgr87 11/Feb/15 Lead O/S
alexm198 10/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Scott's lead, managed to protect it even though we didn't have any screws... In-situ tat and a sling round a pillar. Really nice climbing, only one short steep section. Felt about WI3.

with Scott G
Hidden 10/Feb/15 Lead rpt
MSchobitz 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S

First scottish winter route of the season. Absolutely fantastic climb! Really fat ice, probably WI3. Reminds me why I do this to myself!

Hidden 05/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/15 -
Hidden ?/Feb/15 2nd
martinbettridge06 ?/Feb/15 Lead
david harvey ?/Feb/15 AltLd
with martin
annep ?/Feb/15 2nd
JenRoberts 28/Jan/15 2nd
with Ollie
Steve Perry 27/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Felt IV,5 today.

Hidden 27/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
lanky and weak 27/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Lyndon Chatting-Walters
Timothy Miller 25/Jan/15 Solo O/S
philgillespie 24/Jan/15 -
StuartCJones 24/Jan/15 Lead

Hard ice, the crux felt overhanging and very pumpy. Harder than some of the Grade V's I've done. Fantastic stuff!

MrRiley 17/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Short but surprisingly tricky! Ice quite featured and bullet-hard. IV, 5 currently. Lots of teams racking up air miles on this today...

SteveJCox 17/Jan/15 -

thick but very brittle ice

Debbie Lee 17/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden 13/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Adamski1986 03/Jan/15 Lead O/S
watson.b 03/Jan/15 2nd O/S

First winter climb. Good fun

stanleynkk ?/Jan/15 -

Steep 90 degree ice climbing, more like a grade V on that day

Richard Kendrick ?/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux

with Stanley
Hidden ?/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 31/Dec/14 Lead O/S
michael83 30/Dec/14 Lead O/S

7deg C and in full spate but still a good laugh as a consolation. Wish I'd taken my wetsuit and some arm bands, got a good dowsing!

Hidden 30/Dec/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Dec/14 Solo O/S
Dizz 27/Dec/14 Lead dnf

Thin, hard ice in G12s with only 3 screws ... abbed off to get a crampon upgrade!

with Richard P
Hidden 23/Dec/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Dec/14 2nd
Ally Baba 16/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Gav Swinton
i.fish2000 15/Dec/14 Lead G/U

Both of us took lobs onto good gear, pulled through the crux on second go. Good nick. First Scottish lead so can't comment on grade...

with Leo
leo-z-g 15/Dec/14 AltLd dog
with Gen
JamesRoddie 11/Mar/14 Solo O/S

Just for the novelty value of soloing it in Grade II conditions. Firm neve throughout.

davidbird63 02/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Dave led as I was tired. Climb banked out to the start of the 'direct'. Good climb on a busy day. First time in the Northern Corries, I'll be back!

ten4dave 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S
monsteratt 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S

A snow plod - not even close to being in condition

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
theamerican ?/Mar/14 Solo

No ice. very easy.

danny269 ?/Mar/14 AltLd
with Stan, Louise
Chrismith 28/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Shane
ChristyCole 22/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
fieldworktutor 22/Feb/14 2nd
dkilner 22/Feb/14 Lead
marzi 22/Jan/14 AltLd

heavy spindrift, short pitch, mushy foot holds, not very nice, lots of effort climbing up to start due to deep snow

with will smith
Freshprintce 22/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Steve Maher
Hidden 18/Jan/14 Solo O/S
Piers Harley 16/Jan/14 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
Andy Hewison 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

The ice pitch is quite short at the moment, but ok for the 2nd route of the day. Nice steep ice and fat enough to take a screw.

with Drew Connelly
budchawla 04/Jan/14 2nd dog

Top of the bulge just before the belay was soft snow - fell (on 2nd) and then got back on to finish

dkilner ??/2014 AltLd
ChristyCole ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Apr/13 TR dog
michaelmurray 12/Mar/13 2nd

Rock hard ice, trended right at the top. Good steep fun!

with Mike Brownlow
Hidden 03/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead
joe_lancs 02/Mar/13 Lead
eolmar 02/Mar/13 2nd
mikehenesy 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Swifty did the (not so)hard ice pitch, me and Chris the others.

with Chris Evans, swifty
Hidden 23/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 22/Feb/13 AltLd
Hidden 22/Feb/13 -
Hidden 22/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 22/Feb/13 Lead O/S

I lead the direct pitch then we simul-soloed the rest of Aladdin's Mirror

BallsOfSteel 20/Feb/13 Lead rpt

settling an old score, after I took a whipper off it a few seasons back.

with duncan osgood
bgreen3761 20/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 19/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Andy Dennis
Phil_Hall_97 09/Feb/13 2nd

with Mark Chadwick
FragOcon 09/Feb/13 2nd
nigel pearson 08/Feb/13 Lead O/S

my first grade iv. It was steep and not as fat as in some of the photos, but doable.

with Robin
kj001 08/Feb/13 2nd

Did first pitch ice climb then descended and moved to Patey's Route

phil64 08/Feb/13 Lead
with kj001
waiting for snow 06/Feb/13 Lead dog

Left hand side had some newer poor quality crumbly ice. Rest was bullet hard, and fragile in places. Couldn't see any usual "stepping" from other users, so a nice fresh climb. Gully above was full of windslab, Rock very iced up so friends were useless.

libby.southgate 02/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Got lanyard from axe stuck under a spike in the ice near the top and fell off trying to free it. Not the best..

with Steve Mullan, Tom Smith
thomasaneurinsmith 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Did this after Libby had some falling fun to rescue ice screws. Nice and fat ice!

Hidden 01/Feb/13 2nd rpt
Colin Dyer 01/Feb/13 Lead
robgixer ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/13 2nd
wayne higgins leeds uk 27/Jan/13 2nd O/S

Nice route!!! My first ice climb brill....

with dave payne
Adam Booth 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Short but steep.

Hidden 26/Jan/13 Lead dnf
gowla 26/Jan/13 2nd
with adam booth
ecromwell 26/Jan/13 AltLd dnf

Kayan 20/Jan/13 Lead rpt

Good ice, hasn't seen much traffic and plenty enough ice for some solid screws.

onlyfoddington 20/Jan/13 2nd

Only did the ice pitch and then abbed back down. Unfortunately some weight was on on the rope. First taste of ice and found it hard to get solid placement (and removing ice screws).

with James H
TGreen 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Rosie Henstock 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Mr Fuller 01/Jan/13 Lead dnf

Bit of a shocker. Had enough energy to hang around the crux for 40 minutes and to downclimb and get the screws out, but not enough guts to commit to the route. Ice was a mix of brittle stuff and slush-puppy, though some was good.

with Paul Gibbison, Crazy Tom
TheFatClimber ?/Jan/13 2nd dnf
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Coops_13 30/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Backed off due to only 2 ice screws

Hidden 29/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
tomwheeler 17/Dec/12 AltLd

Beautiful route. I lead P1. Kip lead P2, Ben led P3. Good condition.

bencoope 17/Dec/12 AltLd
Hidden 13/Dec/12 Lead
Jack.H.92 13/Dec/12 AltLd
gst 12/Dec/12 Lead dog

Ice looked great but turned out to be hard and brittle took short fall when feet popped off. V. stiff for grade on day.

with Al Walker
Hidden 10/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
peter fetlar 10/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

good ice but thin

with stewart
Hidden 11/Nov/12 AltLd dog
Charlie Zephyr Booth 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S

first route of the year, first time at sneachda, bit tricky at top as curtain wasnt fat but good fun

Kayan 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt

Lean conditions but solid enough.

olekemi 02/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with James C
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
benclimbing 21/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Fat ice! Steep but very short lived

Karl Wooffindin 19/Dec/11 2nd

Lewis won the game of rock, paper, scissors and won the lead. In good condition for the grade.

with Lewis Grey
Hidden 19/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
Pay Attention 18/Dec/11 2nd
Misha 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S

First route of the season. The difficulties are short lived but in lean condition so a good IV if the steepest line is followed. In situ belay at the top.

with Paul
Hidden 17/Dec/11 AltLd dog
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead
Spongebob 29/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
mark v 28/Mar/11 2nd
with Mike Norbury
Jams Crwca 28/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

2 pitches, lead steeper-than-looks ice pitch, moved alpine style on 2nd pitch

with Danny
gilbert 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and last piches. Short ice pitch fine after a week in Rjukan.

with John Naylor
Brucemacrosson 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Euan Scott
Hidden 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Tomek S 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Very soft ice. It was being melted down.

joe_lancs 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Wojttek 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Tomek S
GaryK 18/Mar/11 Solo

A very short pitch this year due to all the snow.

MoWalker3 12/Mar/11 AltLd

feeling ill, one last route before the 10.5hrs drive back!

with Quiet Ian
DigitalSteak 09/Mar/11 2nd O/S
rcammack 09/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Harry Holmes 09/Mar/11 Solo rpt

nice and hooky

CurlyStevo 07/Mar/11 2nd

Very fat plastic ice. In easy nick (compared with when I lead it anyway) with several rests available on the left between the short harder sections also being pretty chopped up and stepped out.

with Kenny
ksneds 07/Mar/11 Lead

In pretty easy nic due to all the steps and hooks from previous ascents. One balancy move near top and it was all over.

with stevo
Col Kingshott 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
TomPollock 04/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dan doran 04/Mar/11 AltLd
artyscot 03/Mar/11 2nd O/S

We left from home on Skye at 9am and headed to the Cairngorms for a half day in the Northern Corries. We decided on Aladdins Direct (IV,4)as it was looking thick despite the very mild weather. The ice was steep and not too wet and gave a good pitch of climbing. Colins words not mine, I was thinking that looks steep.

DannyK 03/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

2nd winter route...

with pep
jon clayton 01/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with sasha
martinbettridge06 ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Gumery ?/Mar/11 2nd
with Hannah Francis, Tom Chilcot, alex reid
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Tightsgirl ?/Mar/11 Lead
with Gumery
conorcussell 28/Feb/11 2nd O/S

Nice ice!

andrew sandercock 28/Feb/11 Lead O/S

First IV route. Chuffed with the tick and keeping it all together on the lead. Ice is still super fat although it is a little brittle but there's plenty to hook on anyway. Felt steeper than it looks!

with Connor Cussell
CRiddiford 27/Feb/11 2nd
with Steve J
Hidden 27/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Feb/11 Lead rpt
joeydurkin 26/Feb/11 2nd

Still pretty fat and blue after the thaw.

with Patch
Jimmy1976 26/Feb/11 2nd O/S

It wasn't pretty, feet blew out and ended up hanging from my axes and then it was scramble to a ledge. First half was lovely though, just a shame my foot work wasn't up to it

JasonK 26/Feb/11 Lead
JRae 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Paul M
pmurdy 26/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Jonny Reay
Hidden 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
brighters 26/Feb/11 2nd
dan-8990 26/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with PB
gazb 26/Feb/11 AltLd
with felix
crimpy 24/Feb/11 -

fun, lead pitches 2, 4 and 5 :)

Redneck 22/Feb/11 2nd dog

Several falls off the main ice bulge as the spring clip on the crampons kept springing apart. This was sorted by tying it together with some cord...

buzby78 20/Feb/11 AltLd
with McGeek
Murilo Lessa 14/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Alex Desborough
Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
alanramsay 12/Feb/11 2nd
Steve Woollard 12/Feb/11 Lead
with Lou Reynolds
Sean Bell 11/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Blue, quite steep.Carried on to join Aladdins normal.

with rob
pattisonr 11/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with sean bell
Merlin 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Solid blue ice, hooking all the way up P1, moved togeather on the snow slope (steep at Grade I!).

with vaughany, Lesley McCafferty
stevebarratt 05/Feb/11 Solo
colinthrelfall 03/Feb/11 -

Still thick ice despite warm temps. Pics on blog

with Archie
HIGHTOWER 02/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Pouring with water, but great fun.

with Danny Bucknole, Dave Gleave
tsjx 02/Feb/11 2nd
chedder 02/Feb/11 2nd
r_o_b_h2 ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S

on hooks

with stu adams
jonesieboy ?/Feb/11 2nd
Phil Emerson ?/Feb/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/11 2nd
Kirill 30/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Cold and windy day. Walked to Coire an Lochain, but didn't like the look of the approach slopes and turned back. Walked over to Coire an t'Sneachda. Quite late in the day by this stage. A few teams queueing for the right hand side of AMD, but no one climbing on the left. We jumped on the opportunity. Igor led it in about 5 minutes, placing one screw near the bottom and a hex at the small roof. Constant spindrift made it difficult to see, hear, or breath. Met a Spanish climber at the top belay shouting and laughing in a state of mad excitement.

with Igor
ig248 30/Jan/11 AltLd

Tons of spindrift, character-building experience.

with Kirill
a13x 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S

My First IV. Very nice ice:)

clive-greenwood 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 29/Jan/11 2nd
J1PEF 28/Jan/11 -
francois 28/Jan/11 Lead

No decent screws until the last couple of moves as the ice was very wet

BelayBunney 28/Jan/11 2nd O/S

My first winter climb!

Hidden 28/Jan/11 2nd
pudding 24/Jan/11 Lead O/S

steeper than in them photos, got it on a hard freeze!

with alex winter
Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd
SianR 23/Jan/11 2nd
with Tom & Emily
thomasaneurinsmith 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Emily Tickle Edwards, Sian Richards
Hidden 22/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Alex Winter 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Really steep. Good lead by Jordan. Some knobbers abbed down just as we were about to start. Soloed beforehand by some superhero wearing a pair of tattered Ronhills.

with Jordan
Hidden 22/Jan/11 Solo O/S
bfw87 22/Jan/11 2nd


Cardi 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Had formed fat and blue. Steep and long!

with Mike Wild, Sam S
scorky345 20/Jan/11 Lead
with Luke Hefferman
Hidden 19/Jan/11 2nd
sebrider 09/Jan/11 Lead

Nice wee fall and in great nick today:)

with Sophie
sophiecb 09/Jan/11 2nd
with Seb
Timo Austino 08/Jan/11 Lead

well 'ard today ngot the BIG pump machine working overtime

with Nats
R0bbie 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

We climbed the ice then abbed back down from the tat.

with Taba
Glyn 06/Jan/11 AltLd
with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis
tskelhon 06/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

awesome! Led ice pitch

with glyn hudson, chris davis
Hidden 06/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 05/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic if a little brittle ice.

yellow 04/Jan/11 Lead
richiegarside ?/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with steven Andrews
Hidden ?/Jan/11 -
wi11 ?/Jan/11 2nd β
with Chris Gee
peebles boy ?/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead
JasonK ?/Jan/11 Lead
JasonK ?/Jan/11 Lead
JasonK ?/Jan/11 Lead
JasonK ?/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
shugsan ??/2011 2nd O/S

Followed Jay up, still nice and fat despite thaw.

PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
keithru ??/2011 -
bridget143 29/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Matt p1 (ice), me P2, Spike P3

with Spike Reid, Matt Freear
carl_123 29/Dec/10 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 28/Dec/10 2nd
joeydurkin 24/Dec/10 Lead
with Steve Campball
Conan 20/Dec/10 2nd

Much steeper than last time I climbed it. Well pumpy!

with Alan Thorpe
Harry Holmes 20/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

nice ice pitch.

with Liz Mittel, Lyndsey Mackay
Hidden 20/Dec/10 -
tech 20/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
mr rob 19/Dec/10 AltLd dog

In good nick, hard mind!

with jonny, jp
JdotP 19/Dec/10 Lead dog

But I got up it eventually, haha...

with Bike Bore, Jonny Marsh
willhawkins 18/Dec/10 Lead dog
NervosaSam 12/Dec/10 -
Hidden 12/Dec/10 2nd
Crowley6969 ?/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Drew M ?/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
philboy 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with matt g
Dustin 07/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Pat Ingram
George Ormerod 07/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

A bit drippy, but solid enough. Short and sweet technical difficulties.

with Andy S
Roger Cruse 07/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Kris
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Solo
Chris wilson 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with kev
kevburr 03/Apr/10 2nd dog

very hard work to get in and out, snow up to waist height in places!!

manmike 28/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Ste Ridd 28/Mar/10 AltLd

Banked out with ice fall around 6m high - good aproach to Pygmy Ridge.

Hidden 27/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 26/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/10 AltLd
Brendan 23/Mar/10 Lead dnf

Did the ice pitch then abbed off. It was so banked out that the ice fall was only about 6m high - ice bouldering!

with Andy, Paul
Hidden 21/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 21/Mar/10 AltLd
marzi 17/Mar/10 2nd

only one pitch then retreated, fierce wind and avalanche danger, but nice taste of a grade iv

with smiler cuthbertson
telemarker 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice but short ice pitch.

with Paul F
freudy_love 09/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Really short ice pitch as it was so banked out. A wee bit chopped up too, so could pretty much just hook up it. Fun tho :)

with Francis Williams
Hidden 09/Mar/10 -
FrankW 08/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Peter T
Hidden 08/Mar/10 AltLd
Cacyn 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Gayle Davis, Ewan Whitaker
Ann S 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Needless to say I led the easy bit above the ice and Adam got thumped by a huge spindrift avalanche which knocked someone else clean back over the icefall. Lucky for him it was well banked up with a soft landing.

with Adam
morsy 06/Mar/10 2nd rpt
with gerhard mors/alan rodger
melville18 06/Mar/10 2nd
with linda, claire melville
alan.rodger 06/Mar/10 AltLd
morsg 06/Mar/10 -
Hidden 04/Mar/10 AltLd
demarcation86 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/10 Lead
efetunc ?/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd
freemanTom 21/Feb/10 2nd

Short but steep pitch.

with Kyle, Coups
Kyle Rance 21/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Mark Coupland
gordon henderson 21/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with MRT
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Ian Jones 20/Feb/10 Lead β

Is this easy IV? Oh dear, I thought it was quite pumpy and I was glad it was over quick. My first ice for 32 years. Superb scenery higher up and great weather when we reached the top. Bagged my 6th Munro too. Wow. Thanks Stu.

Hidden 19/Feb/10 Lead O/S
djking1983 18/Feb/10 Solo O/S
Adam1973 18/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Ann S
Bram 16/Feb/10 Solo
LostinLondon 15/Feb/10 2nd

Good ice pitch

Hidden 14/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Feb/10 Solo O/S
bigfatbassist 14/Feb/10 AltLd
Helen23 14/Feb/10 2nd
with Ben Hirst
Stephen18 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/10 2nd O/S
mark20 13/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Ollie B 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with M.Rankine
sneaks 11/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Climbed as warm up. Then downclimbed aladdins mirror and went to pateys. ice steep for tech 4 this time?

with Andrew Innes
Hidden 08/Feb/10 Solo
Hidden 07/Feb/10 Lead O/S
amy 07/Feb/10 Lead

banked out

Hidden 07/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 03/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Morton, Zac Poulton
John Kettle ?/Feb/10 Lead
George Lewis ?/Feb/10 2nd
TeeBee ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
tjmillen 31/Jan/10 Lead
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 29/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Cullinen
Hidden 28/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Kayan 27/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Big Lee 25/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Only the last 5 metres of the route weren't banked out. Very easy for the grade currently.

mes32 25/Jan/10 2nd
Timo Austino 24/Jan/10 Solo

Nipped up in between getting pounded by spindrift slides! Standing glissade down aladdins couloir was awesome! Nearly fooked it when, after picking up my sac from the base of the route, I bum slid back down...... Must remember to only do the 20ft freefall slide over the crags when its all rammed with powder in the corrie!

D.Russell ?/Jan/10 Lead
with Adam
Hidden ?/Jan/10 Lead β
Hidden ??/2010 -
PaulCunningham ??/2010 -
PaulCunningham ??/2010 -
colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
philw ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 -
Hidden 30/Dec/09 2nd
Hidden 29/Dec/09 2nd rpt
tatz45 29/Dec/09 Lead O/S
John Roe 29/Dec/09 Lead
with Jenny Crook, Marshall Kinnear
heist182 29/Dec/09 AltLd
with Jamie Tattersall
Hidden 29/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Jen Crook 29/Dec/09 2nd
with John Roe, Marshall Kinnear
groovy_nut 21/Dec/09 Lead rpt
with Patrick
ckmoffat 20/Dec/09 2nd dnf
with Dave & Greame
Hidden 20/Dec/09 2nd
Daniel Sutherland 17/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/09 2nd
scorpia97 13/Dec/09 Lead O/S

first Ice climb, possibly should of practised placing an ice screw on firm ground first... Lovely climb, really good ice!

with Caspian
Liam Ingram 12/Dec/09 2nd
Fergus Cuthill 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S
lachlan ?/Dec/09 -
with daniel sutherland
Hidden ?/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Latimer ?/Apr/09 2nd
breithorn4164 11/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Rupert
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Chad123 07/Mar/09 Lead rpt

Jo's first ever winter climb! Steep but helpful ice with some good spindrift dumps...

with Jo
KKilroy 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Daryl
kleky ?/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with MRT Valley: Andrew
barophobe ?/Mar/09 2nd
Bram 16/Feb/09 Lead
with Dan Jordan
HIGHTOWER 15/Feb/09 2nd

Climbed left hand steeper bit this time.

with Abo
geoff b 15/Feb/09 Lead

A quick ascent of P1 & rap off after doing Fingers Ridge. Steep but delightful.

with Dr. Nick
Hidden 14/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
BenJacobs 14/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve
jsrous 14/Feb/09 -
with Sam Bennett
Bristoldave 13/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Steep! Finished up the mixed ground above at III.

Hidden 13/Feb/09 2nd
CarolineH 13/Feb/09 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 01/Feb/09 Lead
CurlyStevo ?/Feb/09 Lead

pretty fat compared with most the pictures online. Got pumped trying to place a screw on the crux and ran it out! Found the crux harder than other grade IVs I've done that given the route is much shorter.

with Kenny
smcw ?/Feb/09 -

ross and alex

with rmc
Tobes ?/Feb/09 Lead
with mejules
dave_tomlin ?/Feb/09 -
with Tom Evans
jonnie3430 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Nikki and Duanne
Hidden 31/Jan/09 2nd
Rob84 30/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Very straightforward climbing - gear isn't great (poor screws in the conditions we found it in) but it's only a couple of pulls and you're over the difficulties.

with Andy F
PeteH 29/Jan/09 2nd O/S
DaveLeonard 29/Jan/09 Lead
with PeteH
edinbed 24/Jan/09 Lead

With Eric Hildrew

Hidden 14/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/09 2nd
rmc 10/Jan/09 2nd O/S

Fantastic day, great conditions. Second time on Ice.

Hidden 08/Jan/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/09 Lead O/S
BorisVBlade 05/Jan/09 2nd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 04/Jan/09 TR O/S
robertporter 04/Jan/09 Lead O/S
joe larner 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Grade II climbing grade IV debris thanks to the hoards above. So hacked out its how i imagine dry-tooling up an easy slab on an indoor wall is like.

with Rolf
inuklm 03/Jan/09 AltLd
with Dave Gent
Kyuzo 03/Jan/09 2nd
groovy_nut 02/Jan/09 2nd
with Rich
Hidden ?/Jan/09 2nd
Neil D ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
jonnybull ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
rossn ??/2009 -
danJBA ??/2009 -
Hidden 29/Dec/08 -
joeydurkin 29/Dec/08 2nd
with Tim
HIGHTOWER 29/Dec/08 2nd
with Dave Gleave
simon_D 28/Dec/08 2nd
with Roger C
mulletcocktail2000 28/Dec/08 2nd O/S

good ice pitch. steeper than i looks! abbed off at the top of the 1st pitch.

with john
andymoin 20/Dec/08 Lead rpt

Ice alternatly bomber then mushy crap, gear very worrying. Nice wee quick route tho, abbed after the first pitch.

with Warren
Hidden 20/Dec/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/08 Lead dnf
Alexander123 17/Dec/08 Lead
with scotty webster
Hidden 17/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Dec/08 2nd dog
Protheroe 17/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Went direct instead of joining the grade 1, fantastic mixed

with Doug and Eleri
Pete Main 17/Dec/08 AltLd

Steep early season

with Andrew S
Hidden 09/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
mgeek ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Fun but short lived. Just like Krokan but with a bit more of a walk in! Felt about WI 2/3

with Neill Busby
davidgent ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Kunal led thin ice pitch leaving the dull as hell snow leads to me!

with Kunal
Greg Boswell 30/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 02/Nov/08 2nd O/S

In great condition especially for so early in the season (with Phil and Tim).

with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
jazzyjackson 30/Mar/08 -
with Jimbob
Hidden 27/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
alaan 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Jim
Chad123 02/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Third time I've done this route and this was definitely the steepest - Emily managed to get 5 screws in...shame it's not twice as long....

with Emily
andymoin 01/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Pretty thin pretty nice, Neil took a good fall half way up the main pitch, and managed to leave his axe up there but got straight back on and got it easy second time.

Neil Mackenzie 01/Mar/08 AltLd

Sweet, bit thin but no excuse for a mighty fall! went too far round icicle to try get a rest that wasnt there, and suddenly came off, leaving one axe half way up! nice screw held fine and off i went back up to dispach the fine little pitch

with Andy
Hidden 22/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
djking1983 20/Feb/08 Lead O/S
FrankW 11/Feb/08 Solo O/S
with None
charlie barnes 22/Jan/08 Lead dog

smegging mission on straight axes, fell on a stubby at the top. next year good tech axes. coffee and a fag at the top of the pitch. fun sitting in the pub afterwards

with dan
barney_edin 20/Jan/08 2nd
with Andy S, Geoff M
akhughes 19/Jan/08 Solo O/S
Brown 11/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
Christopher Williamson ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
fritz_in_aotearoa ??/2008 -
Alco-nomic ??/2008 AltLd
wee hippy ??/2008 Lead
with janis tait
markjarvie ??/2008 2nd

Scott lead the ice pitch in very dodge conditions. Was very impressed.

with scott becker
Hidden ??/2008 -
Phill_ Thompson ??/2008 AltLd
with Lucy Prins
Mark Walter ?/Dec/07 2nd RP
with Al and Mike
Hidden ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/07 Lead
Captain Solo 08/Mar/07 Solo
andyinglis 07/Mar/07 Lead β

Flashed, after previously seeing a mate take a winger off it years before.

with neil adams
Neil Adams 07/Mar/07 2nd rpt

Also lead the right-hand icefall (about III)

Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
simonw1 17/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Steve
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
tumbling wizard ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S
SteveM 08/Jan/06 AltLd
with Keith
Hidden 07/Jan/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 ?/Jan/06 AltLd
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead dnf

Thin ice and crap technique resulting in a nasty fall.

keith leonard ??/2006 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/05 AltLd
Dangerous Dave ??/2005 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 17/Jan/04 Lead O/S

Not a huge build up, so felt pretty steep. Only Emma's 2nd or 3rd winter route, so an excellent effort.

with EmmaV
Ed Saint ?/Jan/04 -
djking1983 28/Feb/03 AltLd
with Dave Frid
tompercy ?/Feb/03 -
with Martin Jackson
mike.moss ??/2003 Lead O/S
rossn ??/2003 Lead
with Dave Stapely
Nevis_Ben 21/Dec/02 2nd

First ever ice climb.

with Chris Thorne
Tim W ?/Dec/02 2nd O/S
jamie ward 13/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with John Howes
Hidden 03/Mar/02 Lead
220bpm ?/Feb/02 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden ?/Feb/02 Lead
Tarquin ??/2002 -
niall_mac ?/Mar/01 Lead
with am_bodach, Paul R
towdman 25/Feb/01 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 25/Feb/01 Lead
with Adrian Pedley, Paul Tucker
AndyP 18/Feb/01 Lead O/S

The coire was in great condition. it was also packed.

with Graham
Chris the Tall ?/Feb/01 2nd
Spade ?/Feb/01 2nd
with Gordon Bromley
Bruce Kerr 03/Jan/01 2nd
with Alan Smith
Hidden 04/Mar/00 2nd
abbeywall ?/Mar/00 2nd
with K
John Pickles 24/Feb/00 Lead O/S
with John Short
BenTiffin ?/Feb/00 2nd

Dan did a backwards summersault to land perfectly in the snow after both axes ripped.

with Dan Robinson
brockers ??/2000 -
with CarlZ
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Graham Kennedy ??/2000 2nd
with Andrew Porter
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Colin Mcgregor 21/Mar/99 2nd
with Dave Mitchell
Martin Bennett 20/Mar/99 -
with Cec
Hidden 02/Jan/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/99 2nd O/S
bandersnatch ?/Jan/99 Lead O/S
with Brian Hume
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
seanyt ?/Feb/98 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jan/98 Lead rpt
oor wullie ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Nick P
dangates ??/1998 Solo
Louis Hume ??/1998 Lead
with Mustillos
innes ??/1997 Lead
markharro 23/Dec/96 AltLd
with Allan
Lone Rider ??/1996 Solo

Soloed sometime in the 90's

Hidden 30/Dec/95 AltLd
Hidden 12/Mar/95 Solo
Hidden 26/Feb/95 2nd
frost ?/Feb/95 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/Feb/95 Solo

Our last climb together. Anthony unfortunately killed on the Ben 2 weeks later, falling through cornice descending via the abseil posts.

with Anthony Marsh
Hidden ??/1995 2nd O/S
Stuart S ?/Feb/94 Lead O/S
with Mark Atkins
michaelb1 ?/Feb/94 Lead

with Durk. Felt hard at the time

Hidden 16/Jan/94 Lead O/S
Andy Say 01/Jan/94 Lead
Hidden 30/Jan/93 Lead
pingora 02/Jan/93 -
with Roy H, Shaun R
Yourlead 21/Apr/91 2nd
with Graham Penny
Yourlead 30/Jan/91 2nd

Part of Winter Skills course at Glenmore Lodge

Hidden 19/Jan/91 Lead
Yourlead 27/Mar/90 2nd
with Graham Penny
Steve Crowe 10/Feb/90 AltLd O/S
Paul Figg ??/1990 -
Yourlead 05/Dec/89 AltLd dnf

Virtually no ice

with Graham Penny
Hidden ?/Mar/89 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/88 Solo O/S
uphillnow ?/Mar/88 Lead
mark-abz 20/Feb/88 Solo
with Andy W
Hidden ?/Feb/87 -
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Mark Kemball 30/Jan/84 Lead
with Mike Dennison
Hidden ?/Feb/83 -
Dave Almond ??/1983 -

done with rob trevitt my first steep ice and the first placement of an ice screw.

with Rob Trevitt
Bob 29/Dec/82 Lead O/S
with D. Geere
duncan ?/Dec/82 2nd
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Peter Main 07/Feb/75 2nd

A super route, look forward to more like this

with Robin Andrews
Peter Main 19/Dec/74 2nd dnf

Thaw conditions, climbing on melting ice, neither safe nor fun.

with Robin Andrews
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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