82m, 3 pitches.
This climb was originally recorded as being in Foillanpriosun some 1.6km to the East due to an idiosyncrasy in the old half inch map of the region. It remained 'lost' for over 55 years until found by Ronan O Keeffe and Sean Martin of WITMC in Sept 2012.
Start at the obvious stepped ladder feature one third of the way down the crag from the main waterfall. The start is from a boulder detached from the main crag and is immediately to the right of a steep grass gully.
Despite topping out into a faceful of gorse (a typical Comeragh greeting) the first pitch is the cleanest and most enjoyable.
The 'much harder peg crux' in the guide being a solid HVS 5a exit on protruding minuscule conglomerate clasts.
1. 25m
Launch off the detached boulder on to the climb proper, trending left, then back toward the center of the face, before exiting to the right, avoiding the overhangs. Top out into gorse, belay from rear wall from a capacious ledge. HS 4b
2. 35m
Up the steep wall and move right toward an obvious and large V chimney. Exit this feature and trend left up a mix of rock and grass to a large tiered sandstone section. Belay here. HS 4b
3. 22m
Move up a series of horizontal cracks for a few feet before stretching right for a large out of reach jug. Move left from here and left again at the wall in front, climb vertically up the vegetated crack before surmounting some grass to the right and moving back left as soon as possible to regain the dwindling crack.
Pass the rusted piton on ever shrinking holds, bridging is the only option.
Belay on large boulder approx ten metres from the top. HVS 5a
Start at the obvious stepped ladder feature one third of the way down the crag from the main waterfall. The start is from a boulder detached from the main crag and is immediately to the right of a steep grass gully.
Despite topping out into a faceful of gorse (a typical Comeragh greeting) the first pitch is the cleanest and most enjoyable.
The 'much harder peg crux' in the guide being a solid HVS 5a exit on protruding minuscule conglomerate clasts.
1. 25m
Launch off the detached boulder on to the climb proper, trending left, then back toward the center of the face, before exiting to the right, avoiding the overhangs. Top out into gorse, belay from rear wall from a capacious ledge. HS 4b
2. 35m
Up the steep wall and move right toward an obvious and large V chimney. Exit this feature and trend left up a mix of rock and grass to a large tiered sandstone section. Belay here. HS 4b
3. 22m
Move up a series of horizontal cracks for a few feet before stretching right for a large out of reach jug. Move left from here and left again at the wall in front, climb vertically up the vegetated crack before surmounting some grass to the right and moving back left as soon as possible to regain the dwindling crack.
Pass the rusted piton on ever shrinking holds, bridging is the only option.
Belay on large boulder approx ten metres from the top. HVS 5a
K.I Meldrum, R.J. Wathen 1957.
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Route of Interest
Dark Angel
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Coumshingaun)