Rockfax Description
II, 200m. A quiet route which provides some excellent pitches on some beautiful, mostly-clean granite. It dries surprisingly fast after snowfall but still takes one day after bad weather to be completely good to go. Start in the middle of the buttress, beneath a left-leaning ramp.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux and descend west to pass under the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Continue in this direction over the Col d'Entrèves and traverse around under the face - 1 hour from Helbronner lift.
1) 3a, 55m. Climb easily up the ramp via some fairly loose rock to reach a large terrace. It is possible to belay as soon as you reach the terrace, but better to continue up to the back of it to the foot of a deep, block-filled chimney on the right.
2) 4b, 35m. Climb the chimney, which is exited rightwards by a good old thrutch between two boulders, to gain a terrace. Cross this to a bolt belay 5m to the left of a crack/corner.
3) 5c, 55m. Traverse 5m right to the crack/corner. Climb this for 5m to another terrace then head up another crack splitting the face above this, to the right of a corner system. 15m above the terrace, the crack joins the corner system. Follow this gradually leftwards to a niche below a golden slab.
There is a bolted line off to the right of this pitch, but it is 7a+ so don't be tempted to follow the bolts!
4) 5b/A1 or 6a+, 30m. Climb the left-hand edge of the slab on good holds, but with a few tough moves, before traversing to the slightly overhanging crack straight above. (Many people mistakenly climb one of the two corners another 5m to the right, which look tempting but are harder.) The crack normally falls to a determined approach and the odd pull on some gear if needs be (6a+ if done free). It leads to a notch, followed by a short, wide chimney and finally, the belay on the left.
5) 4b, 30m. Step right from the belay and follow flakes and cracks just to the left of the spur to a belay 3m from the crest.
6) 5a, 30m. Go left up the slab to the left of the belay and continue left until a ramp-line leads up and right to a large ledge.
Descent - The route can abseiled from the top of the pitch 6 which allows you to leave your winter gear at the foot, but continuing on to the Tour Ronde summit and descending via the Southeast Ridge makes for a much better and more adventurous day. From the ledge, traverse left and climb up a vague gully to reach the ridge joining the spur with the Tour Ronde North Face. Follow the crest of the ridge on some fairly worrying loose blocks to a 20m abseil. From the foot of this, continue downclimbing for 10m to a ridge-line which leads to the top of the north face. Follow the ridge-line over mixed ground (taking great care over which blocks you pull on), to reach the summit tower where the north face ends. © Rockfax

J Bernazat, C Colomb

Max Streeton 04/Aug AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 03/Aug AltLd O/S
with Tom, Max Streeton
Hidden 03/Aug AltLd O/S
hetty.key 28/Jul 2nd
benkelsey 15/Jul AltLd O/S

After a loose start this is absolutely ace. Freed both the crux pitches. Chossy descent to a night time walk out and second night up high. Brilliant.

pete1993 15/Jul 2nd O/S

hmmmm, bottom is a tottering pile of choss, middle to top is good, was not feeling that good so didn't lead any and french freed the crux, it is actually a long way to the summit, not a quick little jaunt, mixed feelings about it all

with Ben, David
onlyfoddington 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S

After ages looking at the wrong peak we ended up folowing up Ian and Michael (and abbing together). Really enjoyed pushing it a bit more and pleased I got the crux pitch cleanly.

with Andy
David Horwood 10/Sep/12 -
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High TD
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Low TD
High TD-
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High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
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