120m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 120m. A true alpine classic, this route was immortalised in Rébuffat's own The Mont Blanc Massif: The Hundred Finest Routes book. The crux was originally aided and is now equipped with numerous bits of rope and other paraphernalia. It is in an excellent situation and the rest of the route is superb and varied. The route starts from the far left of the highest ledge, almost at the top of the snow slope leading to the Cosmiques Icefall.
1) 4a, 30m. Cross the ledge easily before climbing a short corner to stand on top of a block. Step rightwards off this and scramble easily up to a belay on a ledge, 15m below and left of the crux overhang.
2) 6a+ or 5b/A0, 30m. Climb the corner then the thin flake-crack which leads to the crux overhang via some increasingly steep ground and good holds. The crux is steep but if you're acclimatised and have your wits about you, there are half decent footholds about to help. Otherwise, pull on whatever is there at the time and let your arms do their stuff! Above the crux, follow the easier groove for 10m to reach a belay at the right-hand edge of a large, sloping ledge.
3) 5c, 30m. Walk to the left along the ledge for 4m and then climb the imposing crack above through the small overhang. If you can't jam, this will feel hard so sandbagging your mate by 'kindly' offering to lead pitch 2 may be worthwhile! Once above the overhang, follow the crack with continual interest and the odd steep pull to an exposed but comfortable ledge.
4) 5b, 25m. More of the same, but a bit easier. Continue up the crack for 20m to a ledge with broken ground above and on the right. Head towards the broken ground by climbing a short corner and belay where the face peters out into scrambling terrain. Pay attention not to knock any of the loose rocks which litter this area onto climbers below. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The most popular route on the Eperon des Cosmiques. Pitches: 3, 4+/5, A0 or 5+/6a (roof - free at 5-?), 4, 4+, 4+. Recently partially bolted by the Chamonix guides (!).

Gaston Rebuffat / Bernard Pierre 13/Aug/1956

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Dreamz

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
lukas_s 18 Jun AltLd Ice climbing in the morning, rock climbing in the afternoon. Gotta love Chamonix :) p.s.: the belays are not bolted
Ice climbing in the morning, rock climbing in the afternoon. Gotta love Chamonix :) p.s.: the belays are not bolted
DigitalSteak 1 Jun Lead
Hidden 19 Apr AltLd O/S
sroelants 13 Apr -
with Joe Salter
with Joe Salter
professorcobra 22 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Turned back before the roof when thunderstorm started closing in...
Turned back before the roof when thunderstorm started closing in...
mrbird 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Finn Curry 20 Aug, 2018 2nd Took a more direct start to get to the traverse, a nice pitch in itself.
with Paul Warnock
Took a more direct start to get to the traverse, a nice pitch in itself.
with Paul Warnock
James W 19 Aug, 2018 2nd in big boots
with Mark Thomas
in big boots
with Mark Thomas
Gemmazrobo 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Bit much for injured ankle... pulled on gear for crux overhang, limped most of cosmiques but good morning out
Bit much for injured ankle... pulled on gear for crux overhang, limped most of cosmiques but good morning out
Chuck 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Adam Martin
with Adam Martin
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 2nd
CameronH 8 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
CharlieMack 27 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Awesome route. Though all the tat has been chopped. 5c crack pitch is amazing!
with Sarah adkin
Awesome route. Though all the tat has been chopped. 5c crack pitch is amazing!
with Sarah adkin
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
tompilgrem 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
bobpilgrem 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Tom lead crux overhang. Abseiled route - group ahead climbed with packs and finished up Cosmiques Arete.
with Tom
Tom lead crux overhang. Abseiled route - group ahead climbed with packs and finished up Cosmiques Arete.
with Tom
Ellfen 19 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Joe
with Joe
Piglet69 9 Jul, 2018 2nd
niallsash 9 Jul, 2018 Lead Class route crux nice and spicy but short
Class route crux nice and spicy but short
Rob_Morris1996 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Very happy to get this one done and a lovely route to finish this seasons adventures on! I took us up to the bottom of the roof pitch moving together, Theo took the crux pitch, we both expelled some noises when pulling through. I found the next 'sandbag' pitch to be rather lovely, Theo found it tougher than the crux. Theo took the top pitch. We then joined the masses on the cosmiques which was a total shit show, rocks falling all over the place from guided parties and numerous other groups off route following one another. Overtook as many people as politely as possible, which strangely enough was best done by sticking to the actual route... Really fancy Guiffra-Monaci next year!
with tghayne
Very happy to get this one done and a lovely route to finish this seasons adventures on! I took us up to the bottom of the roof pitch moving together, Theo took the crux pitch, we both expelled some noises when pulling through. I found the next 'sandbag' pitch to be rather lovely, Theo found it tougher than the crux. Theo took the top pitch. We then joined the masses on the cosmiques which was a total shit show, rocks falling all over the place from guided parties and numerous other groups off route following one another. Overtook as many people as politely as possible, which strangely enough was best done by sticking to the actual route... Really fancy Guiffra-Monaci next year!
with tghayne
yakov 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Super classic! Precarious mixed start on bad gear. A group of French guides and aspirants tried to shortcut in in front of us, but just didn't make it. The leader of the pack subsequently tried to mislead us when we were a bit confused about the line - but it just wasn't their day, hah. Led p1,3,5. Finished up the Arete des Cosmiques.
Super classic! Precarious mixed start on bad gear. A group of French guides and aspirants tried to shortcut in in front of us, but just didn't make it. The leader of the pack subsequently tried to mislead us when we were a bit confused about the line - but it just wasn't their day, hah. Led p1,3,5. Finished up the Arete des Cosmiques.
Ericrs 24 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
with Pascale
with Pascale
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 Lead
Stickle Tarn 17 Aug, 2017 AltLd rpt With heavy packs after overnighting at the Cosmique Hut on completion of Swiss Route, Grand Capucin, making the route feel much tougher than last time ! JP french freed the 6a+ crux and i rested on the ropes. The next pitch is really cool crack climbing, never too hard and allowing some good hand jamming practice, 50m. Finished over Cosmique Arete.
With heavy packs after overnighting at the Cosmique Hut on completion of Swiss Route, Grand Capucin, making the route feel much tougher than last time ! JP french freed the 6a+ crux and i rested on the ropes. The next pitch is really cool crack climbing, never too hard and allowing some good hand jamming practice, 50m. Finished over Cosmique Arete.
Jamie Skelton 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
with Jack Morris
08nbrierley 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jack, Jamie Skelton
with Jack, Jamie Skelton
Wizzy 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Started up 15,000 volts thing
Started up 15,000 volts thing
Sam McCarthy 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Last 2 pitches after first 2 of 'M. 15,000 V'
with Wizzy
Last 2 pitches after first 2 of 'M. 15,000 V'
with Wizzy
Hidden 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Jo sumner 7 Aug, 2017 2nd
Siongethinhill 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Benoit Remillieux
with Benoit Remillieux
birks3746 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd Did alternate start (felt tough) due to connies. With big bags for the full alpine experience. Tiny bit of French free to get across to the lower hold on the roof. Belayed soon after, then interesting lead of top 2 pitches ran together after phil dropped the nuts so had to do a lot of cam walking, pretty gripped! Finished up cosmiques which was so dry it's a joke
with Phil
Did alternate start (felt tough) due to connies. With big bags for the full alpine experience. Tiny bit of French free to get across to the lower hold on the roof. Belayed soon after, then interesting lead of top 2 pitches ran together after phil dropped the nuts so had to do a lot of cam walking, pretty gripped! Finished up cosmiques which was so dry it's a joke
with Phil
Hoyes 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with A Reid
with A Reid
A Reid 5 Aug, 2017 - Hoyes led the hard bits!
with Hoyes
Hoyes led the hard bits!
with Hoyes
Little AndyH 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
John1458 21 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Rockfall in the gully, too unstable to get to beginning of the first pitch so climbed up direct to the middle of the ledge. About 5c including some 'traditional' back and footing up a chimney. Oli lead P1, I lead the crux, belayed soon after, then Oli lead P3 and then I finished it off with P4. Abseiled down the route to the left.
with Oli Birkhill
Rockfall in the gully, too unstable to get to beginning of the first pitch so climbed up direct to the middle of the ledge. About 5c including some 'traditional' back and footing up a chimney. Oli lead P1, I lead the crux, belayed soon after, then Oli lead P3 and then I finished it off with P4. Abseiled down the route to the left.
with Oli Birkhill
joe.91 21 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Cracking route, finished off by continuing up cosmiques. Out of breath not being acclimatised and having a heavy pack!
Cracking route, finished off by continuing up cosmiques. Out of breath not being acclimatised and having a heavy pack!
Robbie Blease 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led crux and last pitch!
Led crux and last pitch!
JohnHartley 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Linus Osorio 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd Finished along the Cosmiques Arete
with Louis Kennedy
Finished along the Cosmiques Arete
with Louis Kennedy
CarlosTT 15 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Roger, Paulikus
with Roger, Paulikus
andycash 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd Lead p2 crux, p3. Approach gully is really loose and unpleasantly dangerous from all the hot weather.
Lead p2 crux, p3. Approach gully is really loose and unpleasantly dangerous from all the hot weather.
nathanjmasters 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S After looking at the route a year ago and setting our sights for it the following year we managed to complete the route without any major difficulties. I needed a few back and forth attempts at the overhang before spotting a nice big jug above. A great day with a very hurried romp across the top of the Cosmiques afterwards. Thanks Peter. On to bigger things now!
with rosso
After looking at the route a year ago and setting our sights for it the following year we managed to complete the route without any major difficulties. I needed a few back and forth attempts at the overhang before spotting a nice big jug above. A great day with a very hurried romp across the top of the Cosmiques afterwards. Thanks Peter. On to bigger things now!
with rosso
rosso 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
seanhendo123 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Anja
with Anja
Paul Collins 17 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Sean Martin
with Sean Martin
janegallwey 14 Apr, 2017 Solo rpt Rope soloed in two pitches, finished up Cosmiques
Rope soloed in two pitches, finished up Cosmiques
Matt Harle 14 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
janegallwey 26 Feb, 2017 AltLd dnf Too much snow
Too much snow
Hidden 22 Sep, 2016 AltLd
steve7734 22 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Superb climbing. Led the crux pitch. Felt more like a 6a, but fantastic exposure
Superb climbing. Led the crux pitch. Felt more like a 6a, but fantastic exposure
George.D 11 Sep, 2016 2nd
ollyalkema 9 Sep, 2016 2nd
with pablo herraez
with pablo herraez
Siongethinhill 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Adam Martin
with Adam Martin
Dino Dave 30 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 30 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Did it in 7 pitches. Had an outer body experience on the crux overhang and ended up taking rucksack off and getting Dave to drag it up with him afterwards. Crack climbing at its best for sure!
Did it in 7 pitches. Had an outer body experience on the crux overhang and ended up taking rucksack off and getting Dave to drag it up with him afterwards. Crack climbing at its best for sure!
Hidden 30 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
rfleal 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
jezb1 19 Aug, 2016 Lead Pitches 1 and 3. Brilliant route, p3 felt cheeky 'cos I'm not great at jamming. All free but there is a peg on the roof crux, and above if you need it. Maybe HVS 5b overall? Finished up the Cosmiques.
Pitches 1 and 3. Brilliant route, p3 felt cheeky 'cos I'm not great at jamming. All free but there is a peg on the roof crux, and above if you need it. Maybe HVS 5b overall? Finished up the Cosmiques.
Stickle Tarn 11 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S In my opinion not as good as the other Rebuffat route on the south face (much shorter and much easier). One awkward move to pull through the roof, felt a little bit like The Sloath at the Roaches ! There was nothing in-situ to aid the move. Some nice crack climbing higher up. We left big bags at the belay after P1 (as we were overnighting in the Cosmique hut before climbing Mt Blanc the following day). We abseiled down to the bags and put boots/crampons on before lowering down to the base of the crag.
In my opinion not as good as the other Rebuffat route on the south face (much shorter and much easier). One awkward move to pull through the roof, felt a little bit like The Sloath at the Roaches ! There was nothing in-situ to aid the move. Some nice crack climbing higher up. We left big bags at the belay after P1 (as we were overnighting in the Cosmique hut before climbing Mt Blanc the following day). We abseiled down to the bags and put boots/crampons on before lowering down to the base of the crag.
JoeWilliams 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ollie B
with Ollie B
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
kingjam ?Aug, 2016 2nd
with Nails
with Nails
Hidden 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with j_duds
with j_duds
Jules Lane 27 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Done in rock shoes and abbed down afterwards to avoid carrying much, making it much more enjoyable. Fantastic day! True on-sight as we started lower down the side of the gully due to snow being too soft to get to the top. Actually made a much better P1. I led P1,3,5, including freeing the roof pitch which was utterly spectacular. To me this seemed about f5c / UK 5a. Pitches 4 and 5 were not as easy as our guide suggested ! On returning to the midi we were 'interviewed' by a tourist keen to have a go at mountaineering, right then, who asked, "is it slippery?", "do you actually need crampons", and finally, "so would you sell yours to us then?"!! We politely suggested they contact the guides office.
with Mynydd Paul Justin
Done in rock shoes and abbed down afterwards to avoid carrying much, making it much more enjoyable. Fantastic day! True on-sight as we started lower down the side of the gully due to snow being too soft to get to the top. Actually made a much better P1. I led P1,3,5, including freeing the roof pitch which was utterly spectacular. To me this seemed about f5c / UK 5a. Pitches 4 and 5 were not as easy as our guide suggested ! On returning to the midi we were 'interviewed' by a tourist keen to have a go at mountaineering, right then, who asked, "is it slippery?", "do you actually need crampons", and finally, "so would you sell yours to us then?"!! We politely suggested they contact the guides office.
with Mynydd Paul Justin
Hidden 25 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Claire Molloy 8 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
davebrox 5 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Nick, nv
with Nick, nv
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 2nd
bencoope ?Jul, 2016 -
scorpia97 29 Jun, 2016 AltLd Part of a one day link up with Profit-Perroux, Rebuffat-Pierre and Cosmiques. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/profit-perroux-and-voie-rebuffat-maximizing-the-day/
Part of a one day link up with Profit-Perroux, Rebuffat-Pierre and Cosmiques. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/profit-perroux-and-voie-rebuffat-maximizing-the-day/
Matt Harmon 29 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S french free on the crux move over the overhang, nice crack climbing on the upper few pitches
french free on the crux move over the overhang, nice crack climbing on the upper few pitches
Sarah Roscoe 29 Jun, 2016 2nd
AnnaBacklund ?May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Everetta ??, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2015 -
joelevanschamonix 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd nice route, normal start threatened by rock fall. took 5b direct start
with Tom Grant
nice route, normal start threatened by rock fall. took 5b direct start
with Tom Grant
EllieWoods 5 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Great route! Led P2 etc. Did the 6a move clean, but we had left big boots etc at the bottom.
with pete belfield
Great route! Led P2 etc. Did the 6a move clean, but we had left big boots etc at the bottom.
with pete belfield
alooker ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Made the correct decision to avoid the initial gully. I went off route on the 2nd pitch and left Adam with a worrying traverse cross suspect flakes (fair play!) and the crux move. Finished off barging through on the cosmique.
with alooker
Made the correct decision to avoid the initial gully. I went off route on the 2nd pitch and left Adam with a worrying traverse cross suspect flakes (fair play!) and the crux move. Finished off barging through on the cosmique.
with alooker
dan-8990 16 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with PF
with PF
Hidden 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
squicky 13 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S French free over the roof, felt vervain hard with big bags! Great introduction to Chamonix mountain rock and such a great day for it!
French free over the roof, felt vervain hard with big bags! Great introduction to Chamonix mountain rock and such a great day for it!
DaveThexton 12 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 12 Jul, 2015 2nd
davkeo 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S With bags. P1,2 & 5. Crux went free & was fantastic. Great climbing right through. Finished out cosmiques arête on a blue sky sunny day. Doesn't get much better.
With bags. P1,2 & 5. Crux went free & was fantastic. Great climbing right through. Finished out cosmiques arête on a blue sky sunny day. Doesn't get much better.
Hidden 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
paulmck 18 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with Neil Johnston
with Neil Johnston
JoeCoxson 5 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Left bags at the bottom and abseiled down from the last of the face climbing. I took the pitch before the roof and the 4c pitch up a big chunk of the face. Brilliant position, would have been nice to finish off along the ridge, but it was better to climb without bags.
Left bags at the bottom and abseiled down from the last of the face climbing. I took the pitch before the roof and the 4c pitch up a big chunk of the face. Brilliant position, would have been nice to finish off along the ridge, but it was better to climb without bags.
lukegorman 5 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led the crux pitch. Loved every minute of it
Led the crux pitch. Loved every minute of it
Wendy Watthews 5 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Brilliant took a nit of time faffing and just made the last lift down
Brilliant took a nit of time faffing and just made the last lift down
Hidden 1 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Climbed the aid pitch free
with Tim Johnston
Climbed the aid pitch free
with Tim Johnston
joelevanschamonix ??, 2015 -
hoppojoe7 12 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S brilliant climbing very exposed midway section under a roof finished off on soloing arete des cosmics
brilliant climbing very exposed midway section under a roof finished off on soloing arete des cosmics
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Ali D 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd
alastairbegley 14 Aug, 2014 AltLd Fantastic route, really pleased to lead the S-Crack cleanly in good style. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/rbuffat-route-aiguille-du-midi/
with Slick
Fantastic route, really pleased to lead the S-Crack cleanly in good style. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/rbuffat-route-aiguille-du-midi/
with Slick
Slick 14 Aug, 2014 AltLd My intro to aid climbing... lol
My intro to aid climbing... lol
matty123 7 Aug, 2014 Lead
with Susanne Vuori
with Susanne Vuori
darcan 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Ali D ?Aug, 2014 AltLd
Karl Wooffindin 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Amazing route - a classic of Chamonix.
with Ollie Hemstock
Amazing route - a classic of Chamonix.
with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Michael 28 Jul, 2014 -
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 Lead
DigitalSteak 6 Jul, 2014 AltLd Fluffed leading the crux clean. Great climbing that goes on and one. Finished up the cosmiques arete
Fluffed leading the crux clean. Great climbing that goes on and one. Finished up the cosmiques arete
janegallwey 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Gumery 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Harry Ellis ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with Chris Cox
with Chris Cox
mike mo ??, 2014 -
bandersnatch 6 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd dog
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd
simondunf 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S fantastic, puffing through the roof with the altitude
with caspar
fantastic, puffing through the roof with the altitude
with caspar
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 Lead
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
HansStuttgart ?Sep, 2013 - abseiled in after doing the other route on the face. Nice roof pitch.
abseiled in after doing the other route on the face. Nice roof pitch.
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 -
Hidden 12 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Tom Last 12 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Had a wonderful day on this, quite a busy route. Friendly Norwegians behind us and one grumpy Frenchman who said he was going to late for an appointment, which rather begs the question what on earth was he doing going climbing on the Midi beforehand? Anyway, he turned out to be slower than us. Both freed the crux, which wasn't too bad, but quite physical. Went a bit off route higher up on the IV+ pitch, which made it feel a little harder, maybe V. Anyway, brilliant memorable day out, although trip was later cut short that evening.
Had a wonderful day on this, quite a busy route. Friendly Norwegians behind us and one grumpy Frenchman who said he was going to late for an appointment, which rather begs the question what on earth was he doing going climbing on the Midi beforehand? Anyway, he turned out to be slower than us. Both freed the crux, which wasn't too bad, but quite physical. Went a bit off route higher up on the IV+ pitch, which made it feel a little harder, maybe V. Anyway, brilliant memorable day out, although trip was later cut short that evening.
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
robgixer ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 25 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Fantastic route, we finished up the Cosmiques arête. Both did the roof clean, which was hard carrying big boots in the sacks, probably f5c/6a. Finished up the left hand variant which was v/v+. Worth TD- done free. No bolts on the route.
Fantastic route, we finished up the Cosmiques arête. Both did the roof clean, which was hard carrying big boots in the sacks, probably f5c/6a. Finished up the left hand variant which was v/v+. Worth TD- done free. No bolts on the route.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 -
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd
jcw ??, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
jamieevans ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Tobias at Home ??, 2013 -
csalvage 4 Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf Near death experience?!! No tracks and went in from below up towards the corner gully, prob should have traversed in above Bergshrund but Bry up to hips (crevasse?) just off the path. Gully was treacherous with mix of loose rock and fluffy snow, rockfall from arête. I led up to and first part of gully roped together and no gear. Made better rock after necky climbing and got geared up. Finally made route start at noon :-( Mistake on first pitch added yet more time (tryjng to follow line in Gastons) End of first pitch decided not in good shape as late so retreated. Bry warned about power lines, then threw rope over, yikes!! We lived. Epic adventure for no tick!!! Never been braver....
with Bryan
Near death experience?!! No tracks and went in from below up towards the corner gully, prob should have traversed in above Bergshrund but Bry up to hips (crevasse?) just off the path. Gully was treacherous with mix of loose rock and fluffy snow, rockfall from arête. I led up to and first part of gully roped together and no gear. Made better rock after necky climbing and got geared up. Finally made route start at noon :-( Mistake on first pitch added yet more time (tryjng to follow line in Gastons) End of first pitch decided not in good shape as late so retreated. Bry warned about power lines, then threw rope over, yikes!! We lived. Epic adventure for no tick!!! Never been braver....
with Bryan
Hidden 27 Aug, 2012 Lead
alpinestar_no1 31 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S We linked this with the Cosmique aret made this a awsome day out. Although I had to pull on the peg in the roof, due to heavy packs with Boots/axes/crampons ect...
with Stefan Jacobsen
We linked this with the Cosmique aret made this a awsome day out. Although I had to pull on the peg in the roof, due to heavy packs with Boots/axes/crampons ect...
with Stefan Jacobsen
Stefan Jacobsen 30 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
ashtond6 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd
jimmatthews 17 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Jay Conlon
with Jay Conlon
abtibbs 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S A straightforward climb until the roof which was quite hard.
with HarryB
A straightforward climb until the roof which was quite hard.
with HarryB
HarryB 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with abtibbs
with abtibbs
Adam Coles ?Jul, 2012 AltLd
with hilty
with hilty
hilty ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 2nd
Mike Hood 29 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 2nd dog
mcgovern ?Jun, 2012 Lead Climbed with all our gear, and ended up abing down at the 8th pitch! Lead all pitches up til there. Lost my phone, dropped a climbing shoe, the rope was too short for the absails, took a big fall on the 5th pitch and just about made it to the last lift after sprinting back up to the midi! Epic day! Very exposed and sustained climbing, with the grades felling a lot harder than stated in the guidebook. Awesome route.
with K-Man
Climbed with all our gear, and ended up abing down at the 8th pitch! Lead all pitches up til there. Lost my phone, dropped a climbing shoe, the rope was too short for the absails, took a big fall on the 5th pitch and just about made it to the last lift after sprinting back up to the midi! Epic day! Very exposed and sustained climbing, with the grades felling a lot harder than stated in the guidebook. Awesome route.
with K-Man
QuentinSu ?Jun, 2012 -
Hidden 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Sep, 2011 AltLd
geoff.comley 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Went off route and ended up climbing a direct crack line. VI ish maybe. Awesome route though
Went off route and ended up climbing a direct crack line. VI ish maybe. Awesome route though
Hidden 20 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 Lead
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 -
Jack Loftus 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S First did cherrie then this route. Free the roof at about english 5A - HVS
First did cherrie then this route. Free the roof at about english 5A - HVS
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
sam820 ?Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf Amazing route! First pitch was very iced up so Matt hand jammed through the steep section with gloves on. I led the 6a slab pitch under the roof and Matt led the curving crack. Abbed off after 4 pitches as the remaining pitches looked icy.
with Matt Keyse
Amazing route! First pitch was very iced up so Matt hand jammed through the steep section with gloves on. I led the 6a slab pitch under the roof and Matt led the curving crack. Abbed off after 4 pitches as the remaining pitches looked icy.
with Matt Keyse
Hidden 6 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Petarghh ?Jun, 2011 -
wi11 27 May, 2011 2nd β
supos 1 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Lars Fjendbo
with Lars Fjendbo
astrange 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S No bolts on the climb, when we did it. They must have been removed (for good reason) Nice afternoon climb with no people on the face. Back to the hut for beers in good time.
with Hans Br?uner-Osborne
No bolts on the climb, when we did it. They must have been removed (for good reason) Nice afternoon climb with no people on the face. Back to the hut for beers in good time.
with Hans Br?uner-Osborne
dswansonlow 21 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with sarp
with sarp
sarpedon 21 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Free onsight in late afternoon, long descent via the Cosmiques Couloir.
with dougie swanson-low
Free onsight in late afternoon, long descent via the Cosmiques Couloir.
with dougie swanson-low
Hidden ??, 2011 -
John Pickles 23 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mackay
with Neil Mackay
markv21 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
PeteH 14 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
DaveLeonard 14 Aug, 2010 2nd Narrow weather window - cloudy all day, snow started during final pitch.
with PeteH
Narrow weather window - cloudy all day, snow started during final pitch.
with PeteH
carl_123 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Pete23 ?Aug, 2010 2nd
yellow ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Ross Davidson 13 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Caspar
with Caspar
Hidden 13 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 12 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Petarghh 4 Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Cardi
with Cardi
Cardi 4 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Awesome fun. Roof pitch was a bit of VS then some hauling. Following 2 pitches possibly HS. Didn't fancy abbing with the lectricity wires below! Bit of a scary descent off the Cosmiques after the abseils, which was buzzing with electricity. Had to bivvy in the Midi after missing the last lift by 5 mins.
Awesome fun. Roof pitch was a bit of VS then some hauling. Following 2 pitches possibly HS. Didn't fancy abbing with the lectricity wires below! Bit of a scary descent off the Cosmiques after the abseils, which was buzzing with electricity. Had to bivvy in the Midi after missing the last lift by 5 mins.
liamo333 ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S VS??? Roof felt a lot harder than that! Excellent gear and climbing throughout, wires did not present and problems on abseil. Didn't see any bolts either...
VS??? Roof felt a lot harder than that! Excellent gear and climbing throughout, wires did not present and problems on abseil. Didn't see any bolts either...
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Alexandre Buisse 18 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
thebigeasy ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd
liz j ?Sep, 2009 -
with Matt Dickinson
with Matt Dickinson
inuklm 23 Aug, 2009 -
with Dave Gent
with Dave Gent
davidgent 22 Aug, 2009 -
with Kunal
with Kunal
Hidden 15 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
JDSwain 13 Aug, 2009 -
with Tom Ripley
with Tom Ripley
chris m fisher 7 Aug, 2009 AltLd rpt
with Dave
with Dave
Hidden 7 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Free
with Jon Hauser
Free
with Jon Hauser
Bristoldave ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Hauled our very heavy sack on the crux.
Hauled our very heavy sack on the crux.
lukehunt 21 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S 4h up and down after bailing on the grand cap. brilliant climbing
with Hamish Dunn
4h up and down after bailing on the grand cap. brilliant climbing
with Hamish Dunn
Em66 12 Jul, 2009 -
Hidden 12 Jul, 2009 -
Hidden 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Phil Jennings 12 Jul, 2009 AltLd RP last pitch or two fairly wintry, finished left up gully and line of bolts
with Tom Nichols
last pitch or two fairly wintry, finished left up gully and line of bolts
with Tom Nichols
MoWalker3 7 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Quiet Ian
with Quiet Ian
Diggler 1 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Andy Clow
with Andy Clow
hamish2016 ?Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with James Callendar
with James Callendar
Neil D ?Jul, 2009 AltLd rpt
Tobias at Home 17 Jun, 2009 - i'd say the grades were more like 5c, 6a+, 5c, 5c+, 6a+, 4b, 4c/A0. well worth it though
i'd say the grades were more like 5c, 6a+, 5c, 5c+, 6a+, 4b, 4c/A0. well worth it though
Tobias at Home 4 Jun, 2009 -
with featuresforfeet
with featuresforfeet
featuresforfeet 4 Jun, 2009 2nd dog
farmus21 ?Aug, 2008 AltLd Amazing, truly Took a rather tough finish direct to the final pillar up a crack system, felt much harder than anything else though lack of guide book means we don't know what it was...
with Nick Stephens
Amazing, truly Took a rather tough finish direct to the final pillar up a crack system, felt much harder than anything else though lack of guide book means we don't know what it was...
with Nick Stephens
Guy Wilson ?Aug, 2008 -
with Byron Buck
with Byron Buck
nickstephens ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
JonHarvey ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Byronius Maximus ?Aug, 2008 AltLd The S-Crack will stay in my memory for a long, long time to come!
The S-Crack will stay in my memory for a long, long time to come!
felixthelion ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Fantastic climbing on wonderfully clean granite. Lead the S crack. Got a bit lost at the top. Had the whole face to ourselves as it had been raining for 2 days. Started after luch allowing sufficient time to dry. One of the best days climing i'e ever had.
with polly harmer
Fantastic climbing on wonderfully clean granite. Lead the S crack. Got a bit lost at the top. Had the whole face to ourselves as it had been raining for 2 days. Started after luch allowing sufficient time to dry. One of the best days climing i'e ever had.
with polly harmer
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
rob1 30 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Andy Clarke 30 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Great route on beautiful rock. Aided over the roof. Climbed in warm sun and found it hard to believe a guided party following who said we needed to rush to beat the incoming weather. Realised guides generally know their weather when we were engulfed by a violent hailstorm while abbing down!
with rob1
Great route on beautiful rock. Aided over the roof. Climbed in warm sun and found it hard to believe a guided party following who said we needed to rush to beat the incoming weather. Realised guides generally know their weather when we were engulfed by a violent hailstorm while abbing down!
with rob1
Julie Carroll 30 Jul, 2008 AltLd dog
with Rhiannan
with Rhiannan
HIGHTOWER 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
markfairbank 1 Jul, 2008 AltLd Awesome route, done in 7 pitches - any thoughts of freeing the aid part soon evaporated due to carrying heavy sacks, been knackered after an horrendous bivy on the vallee blanche and the 3500m altitude!
Awesome route, done in 7 pitches - any thoughts of freeing the aid part soon evaporated due to carrying heavy sacks, been knackered after an horrendous bivy on the vallee blanche and the 3500m altitude!
SteveMyatt 1 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Fantastic route. First line not correct and made more lengthly and difficult. The crux is fun.
with Mark Fairbank
Fantastic route. First line not correct and made more lengthly and difficult. The crux is fun.
with Mark Fairbank
The Bad Cough ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
with Lee Bonner
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd
Neil D ?Jul, 2008 Lead O/S + James Waldron Only first three pitches
+ James Waldron Only first three pitches
Rob84 30 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Jim D
with Jim D
Dave Searle 23 Jun, 2008 Lead
with john
with john
Hidden 13 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?May, 2008 -
with Olivier ?
with Olivier ?
AndrewJenkins ??, 2008 -
chris m fisher 6 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Tom + Jake
with Tom + Jake
chris m fisher 5 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Tom + Jake
with Tom + Jake
Hidden 5 Aug, 2007 AltLd
davepc ?Jul, 2007 AltLd dnf
with derek
with derek
Hidden ?Jul, 2007 Lead
tommytuffa ?Jul, 2007 AltLd
with FChris Fisher
with FChris Fisher
Matt Shepherd ?Jul, 2007 2nd
Brian Birtle 10 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with Emma Jack
with Emma Jack
rholdswo ?Aug, 2006 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
mattyork2 17 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
Brian Birtle 17 Jul, 2006 AltLd dnf Alternate special beginning (6a?) followed by "normal" second pitch which is COMPLETELY sandbagged (6b?). The Alex gets a nasty broken blister on his heel and wants to bail after the beautiful 6a crack pitch. Will I ever finish this climb?
with Swedish Alex
Alternate special beginning (6a?) followed by "normal" second pitch which is COMPLETELY sandbagged (6b?). The Alex gets a nasty broken blister on his heel and wants to bail after the beautiful 6a crack pitch. Will I ever finish this climb?
with Swedish Alex
mattyork2 16 Jul, 2006 AltLd β
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
andy jennings ?Jul, 2006 2nd dnf
dancurrie ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
with George Ward
with George Ward
heidimountaingirl ?Jul, 2006 - This is the rebuffat not on the sud pilier south face but on the eperon...fyi. very nice- start at the bottom is different from topo as the snowline is really different from photo- we started far to the left as did most others but the rock is extremely loose and delicate here for the first 10 or 15 metres so take care as there is little to no gear, despite the easy grade at the start. Roof section still equipped with pitons and some tat.
with Yoshiko Miyazaki
This is the rebuffat not on the sud pilier south face but on the eperon...fyi. very nice- start at the bottom is different from topo as the snowline is really different from photo- we started far to the left as did most others but the rock is extremely loose and delicate here for the first 10 or 15 metres so take care as there is little to no gear, despite the easy grade at the start. Roof section still equipped with pitons and some tat.
with Yoshiko Miyazaki
gripped01 ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Dave Tait
with Dave Tait
tatz45 ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Led the second curving crack pitch, stunning.
with JTatts
Led the second curving crack pitch, stunning.
with JTatts
Misha ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S With UCPA group. Pulled on a peg or two on the overhang. Led last pitch.
with UCPA
With UCPA group. Pulled on a peg or two on the overhang. Led last pitch.
with UCPA
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Will Barbour
with Will Barbour
Kyuzo ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Very nice third pitch. I needed a little bit of aid on the second pitch - I would have guessed 6b or harder to free those couple of moves.
Very nice third pitch. I needed a little bit of aid on the second pitch - I would have guessed 6b or harder to free those couple of moves.
Brian Birtle 29 Jun, 2006 Lead dnf Logbook dateline: "Getting our ass kicked by Rebuffet". Got past the 6a crux and bailed at the next 5+ pitch due to falling hail, followed by stuck absail ropes and a run up the arete to ~barely~ make the last Midi down...
with Kirk
Logbook dateline: "Getting our ass kicked by Rebuffet". Got past the 6a crux and bailed at the next 5+ pitch due to falling hail, followed by stuck absail ropes and a run up the arete to ~barely~ make the last Midi down...
with Kirk
hal ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
with Virgil Scott
with Virgil Scott
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
zero six ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 22 Jun, 2005 -
clams ??, 2005 AltLd
with Liam
with Liam
datoon 13 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with JH
with JH
josephwilliams ?Aug, 2003 -
ian bryant ?Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
with rod
with rod
Hidden 1 Jun, 2002 AltLd O/S
Jim Walton 9 Aug, 1999 AltLd
with Matthew Stammers
with Matthew Stammers
Hidden 15 Jun, 1999 AltLd
Jim Walton 8 Aug, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Ed Cartwright
with Ed Cartwright
michaelja ?Jul, 1998 AltLd O/S with David van Ee
with David van Ee
Bilbo 4 Aug, 1997 2nd Acclimatisation for the Matterhorn.
with Steve
Acclimatisation for the Matterhorn.
with Steve
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark ??, 1997 AltLd
with Burnsie
with Burnsie
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
craig h ?Aug, 1996 AltLd
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
tompercy ?Aug, 1995 -
with Amos Preminger
with Amos Preminger
neilmclean 16 Feb, 1995 - Started as big group in brilliant sunshine first time but someone efell off. Rappelled off. Returned on my birthday. Missed last bin down due to snow on upper ledges/off route/me being feeble and slow. Slept in bales in Helibronner departure area
Started as big group in brilliant sunshine first time but someone efell off. Rappelled off. Returned on my birthday. Missed last bin down due to snow on upper ledges/off route/me being feeble and slow. Slept in bales in Helibronner departure area
Hidden 1 Aug, 1994 AltLd
NeilGriffiths ?Aug, 1994 -
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
Hidden ?Jun, 1994 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 29 Jul, 1992 AltLd
with Chris Bedford
with Chris Bedford
frost ?Jul, 1991 AltLd
with Stone
with Stone
Hidden ??, 1991 AltLd
Robmwatt ??, 1990 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 -
Guy ?Aug, 1988 Lead O/S Wonderful route. lead the whole thing with sack containing our plastic boots, couple of axes, crampons etc. Weighed about 20+lbs was absolutely battered by the top.
with The old man
Wonderful route. lead the whole thing with sack containing our plastic boots, couple of axes, crampons etc. Weighed about 20+lbs was absolutely battered by the top.
with The old man
Hidden ?Jul, 1988 AltLd
Hidden 5 Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??, 1986 AltLd
Richard Weller ?Aug, 1983 - Approx month
with Paul Mavin
Approx month
with Paul Mavin
John Marsland ?Aug, 1983 -
with Tony Rex
with Tony Rex
Neil McA 27 Aug, 1981 AltLd O/S really enjoyable done all free. A pleasant change from The Brenva Spur the day before
with Flog
really enjoyable done all free. A pleasant change from The Brenva Spur the day before
with Flog
alpinist63 ?Aug, 1981 -
Hidden ??, 1981 -
John Marsland ??, 1981 -
with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
Steve Bell ??, 1977 -
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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set