Start by heading upto the lower off on Sub Rosa and keep going out onto the lip of the cave and across. Long but with a decent(ish) rest just past the chains of Sub Rosa.

Andy Turner 02/Oct/2012

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Misha 24 Nov Lead dog Omnishambles! The dodgy slot on SR has blown again so now it’s a very long, powerful move. Managed it eventually. Came back down and gave it a proper go. Bit shaky on SR but did the long move after SR fine. Quite tired at the last rest though. Did the move across and hung around for a while trying to find the next slot until the arms gave out. Tried again later but already tired on SR and popped out of the slot before the stein. Called it a day at that.
Omnishambles! The dodgy slot on SR has blown again so now it’s a very long, powerful move. Managed it eventually. Came back down and gave it a proper go. Bit shaky on SR but did the long move after SR fine. Quite tired at the last rest though. Did the move across and hung around for a while trying to find the next slot until the arms gave out. Tried again later but already tired on SR and popped out of the slot before the stein. Called it a day at that.
Misha 25 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt DTS. Climbed well and it felt ok even after an attempt on BoB.
DTS. Climbed well and it felt ok even after an attempt on BoB.
Richard Kendrick 10 Nov, 2018 Lead dnf Tried twice, sorted beta and made it to the stein pull rest second go and then pinged off on the long move out left. Good psych at the crag!!
Tried twice, sorted beta and made it to the stein pull rest second go and then pinged off on the long move out left. Good psych at the crag!!
Misha 21 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt Managed it fully DTS. Felt about the same difficulty, just different. Two goes. First go worked out the DTS moves on the crux of SR, then bolt to bolt. On the long move above the chains, I used the small higher slot in the main slot - it gives an extra inch, which makes all the difference. Spent some time working out the headwall. After the long move, L heel hook and sit up to get R axe into the next slot. Crucial to bump RH up to short handle once in the slot. LF into the good slot (the one you get on the long move) and body tension LH into next slot. Easier finishing move awaits. Got it second go, felt a bit tired to start but did it fairly smoothly. Had a play DTSing BoB until the drag got too much when I got to ‘the’ heel hook (lots more heel hooks when DTSing!). Should go DTS...
with JJ
Managed it fully DTS. Felt about the same difficulty, just different. Two goes. First go worked out the DTS moves on the crux of SR, then bolt to bolt. On the long move above the chains, I used the small higher slot in the main slot - it gives an extra inch, which makes all the difference. Spent some time working out the headwall. After the long move, L heel hook and sit up to get R axe into the next slot. Crucial to bump RH up to short handle once in the slot. LF into the good slot (the one you get on the long move) and body tension LH into next slot. Easier finishing move awaits. Got it second go, felt a bit tired to start but did it fairly smoothly. Had a play DTSing BoB until the drag got too much when I got to ‘the’ heel hook (lots more heel hooks when DTSing!). Should go DTS...
with JJ
Misha 20 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Two goes trying to DTS the whole route. First go bolt to bolt after SR. The long move after SR is actually perfectly doable DTS if you aren’t tired! RF in the former awkward slot which is now a flattie after Will broke it, LF in a slot, short handle L axe in crap slot, intermediary pull up with R axe on the heel hook flattie, then the final reach - Egyptian RL helps. JJ pointed out a good stein pull for the rest, R of the baggy one I use - still have to use the baggy one for the next move though. Managed to DTS the finishing moves, which involved a crappy sloping intermediary edge. Second go had to rest after SR as couldn’t do the long move, then dropped it on the long move right up high.
with JJ, Will
Two goes trying to DTS the whole route. First go bolt to bolt after SR. The long move after SR is actually perfectly doable DTS if you aren’t tired! RF in the former awkward slot which is now a flattie after Will broke it, LF in a slot, short handle L axe in crap slot, intermediary pull up with R axe on the heel hook flattie, then the final reach - Egyptian RL helps. JJ pointed out a good stein pull for the rest, R of the baggy one I use - still have to use the baggy one for the next move though. Managed to DTS the finishing moves, which involved a crappy sloping intermediary edge. Second go had to rest after SR as couldn’t do the long move, then dropped it on the long move right up high.
with JJ, Will
climber34neil 8 May, 2018 Lead dnf First go on MG to look at moves etc, SR steady , 2 laps
First go on MG to look at moves etc, SR steady , 2 laps
climber34neil 4 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf First session on the route, fist time after doing sub rosa
First session on the route, fist time after doing sub rosa
Misha 28 Dec, 2016 Lead RP Got it at last, first go today after a bit of a warm up on the first half of SR. Did all the techy bits nicely and milked the rests, so for a change felt good going into the finishing sequence. Now on to the next project...
Got it at last, first go today after a bit of a warm up on the first half of SR. Did all the techy bits nicely and milked the rests, so for a change felt good going into the finishing sequence. Now on to the next project...
Misha 27 Dec, 2016 Lead dog First session this season. First go got to the poor rest before the finishing moves and knew I didn't have the beans to finish so had a rest. Then didn't quite manage to get the slot under the lower off and fell off. By the way, down to a single 9/4 on SR, below the stein - the rest DTS. Second go got a bit back on the poor rest, got the good slot after that (missing out the poor slot) but couldn't extract L axe so had a rest. Clean to the top after that. Beta is to get L boot in the hole before the move across and don't place L axe all the way in.
First session this season. First go got to the poor rest before the finishing moves and knew I didn't have the beans to finish so had a rest. Then didn't quite manage to get the slot under the lower off and fell off. By the way, down to a single 9/4 on SR, below the stein - the rest DTS. Second go got a bit back on the poor rest, got the good slot after that (missing out the poor slot) but couldn't extract L axe so had a rest. Clean to the top after that. Beta is to get L boot in the hole before the move across and don't place L axe all the way in.
olorin 1 Nov, 2016 Lead RP Is it just my tools or is that second steinpull terrifying?
Is it just my tools or is that second steinpull terrifying?
Misha 24 Jan, 2016 Lead dog As the name suggests... Two goes. First go felt OK after SR but dropped a shouldered axe when going for the hard move after SR, d'oh! To the top from there with a rest at the poor rest. Figured out a seemingly better way to do the moves our right by hooking left toe in the hole rather than the break. Second go by head torch (as ever on the last go!), clean to the poor rest, feeling ok, went for it but cut loose on the poor hold before getting the good slot and fell off as unable to recover. Best go so far.
with eszter
As the name suggests... Two goes. First go felt OK after SR but dropped a shouldered axe when going for the hard move after SR, d'oh! To the top from there with a rest at the poor rest. Figured out a seemingly better way to do the moves our right by hooking left toe in the hole rather than the break. Second go by head torch (as ever on the last go!), clean to the poor rest, feeling ok, went for it but cut loose on the poor hold before getting the good slot and fell off as unable to recover. Best go so far.
with eszter
Misha 30 Dec, 2015 Lead dog Three goes again, last one by head torch again! First go an axe fell out of a slot just as I was about to do the fig 4 after SR, d'oh! Was feeling ok as well... After a short rest, had the best go yet, managing to get a bit back on the poor rest but pumping out on the 4 after the long move right. Very long stick required to knock out a stranded axe! Third go was tired, rested after SR and then lowered off at the poor rest as didn't fancy any more stranded axe antics at the end of the day. Making marginal gains...
Three goes again, last one by head torch again! First go an axe fell out of a slot just as I was about to do the fig 4 after SR, d'oh! Was feeling ok as well... After a short rest, had the best go yet, managing to get a bit back on the poor rest but pumping out on the 4 after the long move right. Very long stick required to knock out a stranded axe! Third go was tired, rested after SR and then lowered off at the poor rest as didn't fancy any more stranded axe antics at the end of the day. Making marginal gains...
Misha 26 Dec, 2015 Lead dog Three goes (last one by headtorch), to the top each time. 3 rests, then 2, then just 1 (at the poor rest before the long move right). Beta for future reference: fig 4 with the left foot off the short handle for the second slot above SR; and miss out the last clip as it's hard to clip and no danger of hitting anything even if you fall off the top moves (did this on the last go and it worked nicely). Did SR clean each time.
Three goes (last one by headtorch), to the top each time. 3 rests, then 2, then just 1 (at the poor rest before the long move right). Beta for future reference: fig 4 with the left foot off the short handle for the second slot above SR; and miss out the last clip as it's hard to clip and no danger of hitting anything even if you fall off the top moves (did this on the last go and it worked nicely). Did SR clean each time.
Misha 6 Dec, 2015 Lead dnf Two goes working the moves. First go got SR clean (DTS on the initial roof, down to one 9 and one 4+9 on the whole of SR, good fun and slightly easier?) then pretty much bolt to bolt and fell off at the penultimate clip. Second go by head torch, slipped off the stein on SR (oh the shame!) then again bolt to bolt after SR, did some of the moves better. Again fell off at the penultimate clip - a lot of drag to clip and it's pumpy up there! Reckon should be able to finish it next time with the better beta lower down but linking will be a different matter...
with eszter
Two goes working the moves. First go got SR clean (DTS on the initial roof, down to one 9 and one 4+9 on the whole of SR, good fun and slightly easier?) then pretty much bolt to bolt and fell off at the penultimate clip. Second go by head torch, slipped off the stein on SR (oh the shame!) then again bolt to bolt after SR, did some of the moves better. Again fell off at the penultimate clip - a lot of drag to clip and it's pumpy up there! Reckon should be able to finish it next time with the better beta lower down but linking will be a different matter...
with eszter
Ramon Marin 16 Nov, 2014 Lead rpt I lap it today for training, so funny that something that felt impossible just yesterday I can now do laps on it. Such a good route EDIT November 2015. A chat with the first ascencionist Andy Turner reveals that what I've been climbing all along is not Marginal Gains but a project that hadn't been climbed yet. Marginal Gains finishes half way up the lip, which makes more sense at M11. The whole lip traverse as I've been doing is a new route, which I will call "Band of Brothers" and going at around M12. Harder than Powerdab though, way harder! ;-)
I lap it today for training, so funny that something that felt impossible just yesterday I can now do laps on it. Such a good route EDIT November 2015. A chat with the first ascencionist Andy Turner reveals that what I've been climbing all along is not Marginal Gains but a project that hadn't been climbed yet. Marginal Gains finishes half way up the lip, which makes more sense at M11. The whole lip traverse as I've been doing is a new route, which I will call "Band of Brothers" and going at around M12. Harder than Powerdab though, way harder! ;-)
Ramon Marin 15 Nov, 2014 Lead β Finally got this done, incredible route. Hard for the grade, it's taken me about 6 weekends over 3 years. It's definitely M12 in my opinion. It's way way harder than all the M11 and M11+ I've done around the world.
with viki harvey
Finally got this done, incredible route. Hard for the grade, it's taken me about 6 weekends over 3 years. It's definitely M12 in my opinion. It's way way harder than all the M11 and M11+ I've done around the world.
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 1 Nov, 2014 Lead dog This went from feeling utterly impossible to maybe doable. 4 weekends work to finally get some breakthroughs. Bloody hard
with viki harvey
This went from feeling utterly impossible to maybe doable. 4 weekends work to finally get some breakthroughs. Bloody hard
with viki harvey
Voting
High M11+
Mid M11+
Low M11+
High M11
Mid M11
Low M11
High M10+
Mid M10+
Low M10+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
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