Start by heading upto the lower off on Sub Rosa and keep going out onto the lip of the cave and across. Long but with a decent(ish) rest just past the chains of Sub Rosa.

Andy Turner 02/Oct/2012

climber34neil 04/Sep/17 Lead dnf

First session on the route, fist time after doing sub rosa

Misha 28/Dec/16 Lead RP

Got it at last, first go today after a bit of a warm up on the first half of SR. Did all the techy bits nicely and milked the rests, so for a change felt good going into the finishing sequence. Now on to the next project...

with Sam, Andy W
Misha 27/Dec/16 Lead dog

First session this season. First go got to the poor rest before the finishing moves and knew I didn't have the beans to finish so had a rest. Then didn't quite manage to get the slot under the lower off and fell off. By the way, down to a single 9/4 on SR, below the stein - the rest DTS. Second go got a bit back on the poor rest, got the good slot after that (missing out the poor slot) but couldn't extract L axe so had a rest. Clean to the top after that. Beta is to get L boot in the hole before the move across and don't place L axe all the way in.

with Andy, Phil
olorin 01/Nov/16 Lead RP

Is it just my tools or is that second steinpull terrifying?

Misha 24/Jan/16 Lead dog

As the name suggests... Two goes. First go felt OK after SR but dropped a shouldered axe when going for the hard move after SR, d'oh! To the top from there with a rest at the poor rest. Figured out a seemingly better way to do the moves our right by hooking left toe in the hole rather than the break. Second go by head torch (as ever on the last go!), clean to the poor rest, feeling ok, went for it but cut loose on the poor hold before getting the good slot and fell off as unable to recover. Best go so far.

with Eszter
Misha 30/Dec/15 Lead dog

Three goes again, last one by head torch again! First go an axe fell out of a slot just as I was about to do the fig 4 after SR, d'oh! Was feeling ok as well... After a short rest, had the best go yet, managing to get a bit back on the poor rest but pumping out on the 4 after the long move right. Very long stick required to knock out a stranded axe! Third go was tired, rested after SR and then lowered off at the poor rest as didn't fancy any more stranded axe antics at the end of the day. Making marginal gains...

with Phil
Misha 26/Dec/15 Lead dog

Three goes (last one by headtorch), to the top each time. 3 rests, then 2, then just 1 (at the poor rest before the long move right). Beta for future reference: fig 4 with the left foot off the short handle for the second slot above SR; and miss out the last clip as it's hard to clip and no danger of hitting anything even if you fall off the top moves (did this on the last go and it worked nicely). Did SR clean each time.

Misha 06/Dec/15 Lead dnf

Two goes working the moves. First go got SR clean (DTS on the initial roof, down to one 9 and one 4+9 on the whole of SR, good fun and slightly easier?) then pretty much bolt to bolt and fell off at the penultimate clip. Second go by head torch, slipped off the stein on SR (oh the shame!) then again bolt to bolt after SR, did some of the moves better. Again fell off at the penultimate clip - a lot of drag to clip and it's pumpy up there! Reckon should be able to finish it next time with the better beta lower down but linking will be a different matter...

with Eszter
Ramon Marin 16/Nov/14 Lead rpt

I lap it today for training, so funny that something that felt impossible just yesterday I can now do laps on it. Such a good route EDIT November 2015. A chat with the first ascencionist Andy Turner reveals that what I've been climbing all along is not Marginal Gains but a project that hadn't been climbed yet. Marginal Gains finishes half way up the lip, which makes more sense at M11. The whole lip traverse as I've been doing is a new route, which I will call "Band of Brothers" and going at around M12. Harder than Powerdab though, way harder! ;-)

Ramon Marin 15/Nov/14 Lead β

Finally got this done, incredible route. Hard for the grade, it's taken me about 6 weekends over 3 years. It's definitely M12 in my opinion. It's way way harder than all the M11 and M11+ I've done around the world.

with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 01/Nov/14 Lead dog

This went from feeling utterly impossible to maybe doable. 4 weekends work to finally get some breakthroughs. Bloody hard

with viki harvey
High M11+
Mid M11+
Low M11+
High M11
Mid M11
Low M11
High M10+
Mid M10+
Low M10+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)