UKC Logbook - 'Sweet, Sweet Afantinzar Dogs'

200m, 6 pitches. 1: 30m 4a Climb the left eage of the chimney and move left and up a short crack. Move back right to belay at a jammed block in the chimney.
2: 35m 4c The left-hand, smaller chimney and a short crack, up the edge to belay below some flakes.
3: 35m 4b Gain a terrace, climbing flakes on the right to gain a crack. Move left, climbing the left edge of a narrow chimney to the top of a pillar.
Belay by a jammed block on the far side of the terrace.
4: 30m 4c A very difficult move from the right or slightly easier from the left. Move left into a small corner leading to a more obvious V groove open corner above until forced left on the arête at around half hight where it becomes smooth & difficult, to a stance on the ridge. continuing up the the smooth corner goes at around hvs 5a/b
5: 50m 4c Climb a groove and short steep corner.
6: 20m (-) Continue up a red slab right of a big flake and scramble more easily up to the top.

A Rampini, S Mazzani 26/Oct/2011.

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User	Date		Notes
C Rettiw	24 Feb	Show βeta βeta: This route starts a little slowly, but gets better with each pitch. P.3: it's not clear what "flakes" is supposed to designate; it's probably best to climb the short wall above p.2 belay and then follow some easy ground and other short walls, left of a small tower, up to a good ledge just below a chimney, where it is a good idea to belay to avoid rope drag. (The tower can be climbed at about 4a, but is loose and leads you back to the same place, so feels illogical.) The chimney initially looks ragged and chossy, not "smooth" (as described in the guides). However, if you climb it easily for c.5m to a junction, then move left, you gain a secondary "smooth chimney", which is a great feature to climb. This allows you to reach a large ledge system. Move the belay the left edge of this, for p.4 and 5, which can be easily combined into one very good pitch up a corner/groove, before moving leftward along a ramp to avoid an impending fingercrack, finishing up several ledges above. The final pitch is then 10m of easier ground, with many options. VS 4b. No 4c moves. Not sure where the hard start move on final good pitch is meant to be.
Show beta βeta: This route starts a little slowly, but gets better with each pitch. P.3: it's not clear what "flakes" is supposed to designate; it's probably best to climb the short wall above p.2 belay and then follow some easy ground and other short walls, left of a small tower, up to a good ledge just below a chimney, where it is a good idea to belay to avoid rope drag. (The tower can be climbed at about 4a, but is loose and leads you back to the same place, so feels illogical.) The chimney initially looks ragged and chossy, not "smooth" (as described in the guides). However, if you climb it easily for c.5m to a junction, then move left, you gain a secondary "smooth chimney", which is a great feature to climb. This allows you to reach a large ledge system. Move the belay the left edge of this, for p.4 and 5, which can be easily combined into one very good pitch up a corner/groove, before moving leftward along a ramp to avoid an impending fingercrack, finishing up several ledges above. The final pitch is then 10m of easier ground, with many options. VS 4b. No 4c moves. Not sure where the hard start move on final good pitch is meant to be.