615m, 16 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. A fine, and huge climb up the centre of the face, the first line on the cliff, put up in 1972. The route has over 500m of climbing and a lot of rambling - even fast teams will want to start early. The best start is to use the first pitch of Gorilas although the original start came in from the left in three grassy pitches.
1) 6a, 45m. As for Gorilas en la roca.
2) 2+, 40m. Scramble along the ledge, then up the ramp.
3) 3, 40m. Contiue up the ramp as it steepens.
4) 4+, 40m. Climb the slab moving right at half-height to reach a small stance below steeper rock.
5) 6a, 45m. The crucial pitch contains plenty of fixed gear, though not enough to aid climb it. Follow this up and left across the wall (passing an optional stance) to reach the base of an open groove.
6) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove to its end and a belay on the left.
7) 4+, 25m. Weave up the wall to a stance below easier ground.
8) 3, 40m. Trend right then up, the right again to the major ledge system that cuts across the upper part of the face.
9) 1, 50m. Follow the ledges right to below an open groove.
10) 4+, 30m. Up the groove to the higher ledge system.
Note: It is possible to escape right from here along the ledge system, to join the descent route. Care required.
11) 1, 50m. Scramble back left to where the ledge ends.
12) 3, 20m. Climb the ramp to a belay below a leaning groove.
13) 6a, 35m. Up the groove to its closure where exposed moves reach easy ground.
14) 4, 50m. Easier climbing trending slightly right reaches the top - at last.
Descent - Walk uphill in a northeast direction towards the top of the hill to a small col (cairns). A 40m abseil from a tree leads to open ground. Head down and left (cairns and white arrows) out onto the buttress to the north of the huge gully. On the end of this descend a ramp to locate the anchors. Two abseils (25m and 30m) lead to the foot of the face. © Rockfax

FA. J.Pi, J.Adalid, C.Torregrosa 1972

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, The Big Easys.

Hidden 01/Jan AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/17 AltLd
birks3746 11/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Amazing day out, I think car to car about 10hrs, route finding tricky in the 1st half, windy and cold. For pitch 3/4 make sure you go round to the right near the top of the gulley, not the line of bolts that goes up behind the leafy tree, otherwise your on something hard, you step round to the right and theres a shiny hidden belay. Middle 6A is one of the most memorable I've done, felt tough for 6A, loads of exposure, run out but properly epic. Also got to lead the 1+ pitches, shaboom! Easier pitches are chossy so take care, follow the descent advice below, really useful. Also take some Americans who are gnarly and know what they are doing

with Alice Browne
Hidden 05/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
shaunhumphreys 12/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Mega route managed to get up ok, got dark and guidebook description by rockfax is fookin dreadful!! Pretty pissed off at how bad it was! Eventually got down using a much better and totally different description provided by rich! (Legend)

with Rory
Teappleby 12/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Loose mountainous fun times. Loads of bolts and pegs on the hard pitches but you get a nice bit of exposure them. Although don't follow the rockfaX descent. It is wrong! Not just slightly off. Plain wrong! You need to head up to an amphitheatre back from the crag in a north west direction. Scramble down into the amphitheatre. Then abb from 2 bolts behind a tree in the bottom, left hand corner of the amphitheatre (looking downhill). From these abb 40m onto the scree. Follow the scree down hugging the right hand side (coastal side)of the basin to a large path lower down. Follow this and some white arrows down to a sign for some abbs and 2 sections of via ferrâta. These lead to a 25m and 35m marked abb. However they can be done easily on a pair of 60's,this then leaves you on a path back to the car park.

ruairidhwad 12/Nov/16 Lead

Rockfax decent description completely wrong

with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 12/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Luis SD 12/Apr/16 AltLd
craig naylor 25/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Tony
superturbo 17/Nov/15 Lead dnf

Got lost, possibly joined up with gorilas en la roca. Comically took a whipper into a tree.

Juan Ruiz 11/Oct/15 AltLd
with Pablo Perea
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Lev 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
stevens744 15/Nov/11 2nd O/S

when half way up

with Andy Span rock
dan ely 02/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Took 6 hours. Start of decent very hard to find using Rockfax directions.

with scottish scott
auld al 11/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

started climbing at 7.30 (first light) and topped out at 3.30 - rockfax description is 'vague' for top pitches and descent. the pitches graded 5 were fine but the main 6a pitch was a tough traverse with both people needing to be competant at 6a

rw7399 04/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
btc 04/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Bob Workman
KevB 16/Dec/10 AltLd

In approach shoes. Six hours.

with Tony P
Hidden 14/Nov/10 AltLd
Tom Phillips 24/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

split crux pitch. not possible to aid crux - has to be climbed free at about 6a+ good bolt belays on all the main pitches after the initil easy ramp. traverse of the climb right and easier to ab to a large tree at one point. befor esrambling up over a ridge with a cairn on it.

with bruce
Jay.Carr ??/2001 -
with Mam and Dad
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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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