55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the great Pembroke classics. It follows a cunning line up the wall weaving in and out of the steep bits. Start at the right-hand end of the block under the face, below a steep groove which leads to a ledge on the left.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the groove and wall above the ledge to the break. Traverse left for 10m to belay on a ledge below the longest of several grooves in the wall above.
2) 5b, 15m. Climb the groove, passing left of two roofs, onto a slab and belay. Often found to be the hardest pitch.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb up to a corner on the right-hand side of the large roof. Follow this then move leftwards around the roofs to finish up another corner. These last two pitches can be run together. © Rockfax

FA. B.Wintringham 7.4.80 07/Apr/1980

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), UK Holiday Plans, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
slowmotion 24 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Sophie lead P2 and 3 together which was impressive and I wouldn't advise it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sophie lead P2 and 3 together which was impressive and I wouldn't advise it!
Neil Binns 27 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Adrian. I thought the 2nd pitch was the crux and worth E2 5b in its own right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with Adrian. I thought the 2nd pitch was the crux and worth E2 5b in its own right.
Furzy Sleight 30 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A great adventure but pretty sustained and that last pitch is a right bugger.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great adventure but pretty sustained and that last pitch is a right bugger.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great line with lots of interest on each pitch, second pitch felt only 5a. Top pitch is the meat of the route with thrutchy polished crack and thin traverse (sneaky jug up right). Overall probably worth E2 (combining 2nd and 3rd pitches) or tough E1 done in three pitches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great line with lots of interest on each pitch, second pitch felt only 5a. Top pitch is the meat of the route with thrutchy polished crack and thin traverse (sneaky jug up right). Overall probably worth E2 (combining 2nd and 3rd pitches) or tough E1 done in three pitches.
Grinning Donkey 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: E2 for sure by my reckoning....given the commitment, the ab in and the 3rd pitch 'awful move left'...yep...good for the money...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E2 for sure by my reckoning....given the commitment, the ab in and the 3rd pitch 'awful move left'...yep...good for the money...
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
slowmotion 23 Aug AltLd O/S Lead P1 (of Voyage Out?). Really enjoyed this route (despite being exceptionally grumpy after getting hot on the previous route).
Lead P1 (of Voyage Out?). Really enjoyed this route (despite being exceptionally grumpy after getting hot on the previous route).
Sophie Nunn 23 Aug AltLd O/S P1 of voyage out then Led P2&3 in one
P1 of voyage out then Led P2&3 in one
mshorter 22 Jul AltLd O/S
sparkass 22 Jul AltLd O/S
andy_pemberton 22 Jul Lead Top pitch cracks were damp and felt hard for 5b. Removing my helmet and trying to clip it into something whilst hanging off a greasy fist jam was a first.
with Steve Gibson
Top pitch cracks were damp and felt hard for 5b. Removing my helmet and trying to clip it into something whilst hanging off a greasy fist jam was a first.
with Steve Gibson
Kev Little 4 May AltLd rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
aiyer 4 May AltLd O/S Lead P2. P3 was spicy!
Lead P2. P3 was spicy!
Mike_Hayes 20 Apr AltLd
treesrockice 20 Apr AltLd O/S L P2, full on in sweaty heat.
with Mike Hayes
L P2, full on in sweaty heat.
with Mike Hayes
Wil Treasure 7 Apr AltLd
with duncan
with duncan
duncan 7 Apr AltLd O/S Led pitch two. Great route.
Led pitch two. Great route.
mrblack ?? -
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Bruise Apprentice 25 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2. CC guide puts it at 24m, which is correct. No meaningful gear for the first half of it. Bring your brass nuts - both types! P1 and P3 both have sections of bold climbing, and you might need to take off your helmet at the crux of P3.
Led P2. CC guide puts it at 24m, which is correct. No meaningful gear for the first half of it. Bring your brass nuts - both types! P1 and P3 both have sections of bold climbing, and you might need to take off your helmet at the crux of P3.
poeter210 25 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S 1&3 3 contrasting pitches, 2 is insecure and gear is a bit wiggy, other two pitches tough moves for 5b but still 5b
1&3 3 contrasting pitches, 2 is insecure and gear is a bit wiggy, other two pitches tough moves for 5b but still 5b
Freshprintce 25 Aug, 2018 Lead β
JendeHoxar 17 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 17 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S In the rain...
In the rain...
Paz 20 May, 2018 AltLd rpt I have no memory of this place. P2 was great. P3 was an effort - fist jamming? On a Pembroke E2?
I have no memory of this place. P2 was great. P3 was an effort - fist jamming? On a Pembroke E2?
JBO 14 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazingly varied climbing, all pitches very good and memorable. Be careful at the end of the top pitch, I pulled an absolutely massive block off.
Amazingly varied climbing, all pitches very good and memorable. Be careful at the end of the top pitch, I pulled an absolutely massive block off.
steve taylor ??, 2018 -
duncana 27 Aug, 2017 2nd dog Lovely varied route. Tricky moves up to traverse onP1 (pulled on gear). P2 is excellent delicate climbing. Top pitch has some steep moves (tight rope).
with Pippa Archer
Lovely varied route. Tricky moves up to traverse onP1 (pulled on gear). P2 is excellent delicate climbing. Top pitch has some steep moves (tight rope).
with Pippa Archer
Ursula 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Found crux move into hand traverse with sketchy feet really hard (and scary!)
with Joe
Found crux move into hand traverse with sketchy feet really hard (and scary!)
with Joe
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Charlie Zephyr Booth 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with dave ferguson
with dave ferguson
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
mikeski 29 May, 2017 AltLd rpt
rosiehawker 29 May, 2017 AltLd O/S I led pitch 2
I led pitch 2
msoldn ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Andy
with Andy
Jack93 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead P1 and 3, absolutely amazing route, pitch 2 was just so nice!
Lead P1 and 3, absolutely amazing route, pitch 2 was just so nice!
Hidden 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Jonny Nick 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Amazing route.. Proper adventure! Led pitches 1 & 3.
Amazing route.. Proper adventure! Led pitches 1 & 3.
Hidden 7 May, 2016 Lead
Hidden 7 May, 2016 2nd
adam 24 23 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Paul Clarkson
with Paul Clarkson
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2016 -
DubyaJamesDubya 11 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Joe Harris
with Joe Harris
mattnuttall 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Very hot... great route to get fully cooked on. Lead P1 and P3. Loved the grunty top pitch. You can get 'in' it a bit to get out of the sun too.
Very hot... great route to get fully cooked on. Lead P1 and P3. Loved the grunty top pitch. You can get 'in' it a bit to get out of the sun too.
Andrew Wilson 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
with Matt Nuttall
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
GeorgT 4 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
with Sam Brown
with Sam Brown
Chris_barr 24 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Pitch each, I had last pitch. Great adventure.
with John Roberts, Gus
Pitch each, I had last pitch. Great adventure.
with John Roberts, Gus
Gus 24 May, 2015 AltLd Waddage!
with John Roberts, chris barr
Waddage!
with John Roberts, chris barr
Hidden 24 May, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Just lovely! Led P2, which was a delight. Thought the top pitch was the crux - I got my helmet stuck in the offwidth and thought I was going to fall off!
with Pagan
Just lovely! Led P2, which was a delight. Thought the top pitch was the crux - I got my helmet stuck in the offwidth and thought I was going to fall off!
with Pagan
Hidden 5 May, 2015 AltLd
Ian1987 4 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Teappleby 4 Apr, 2015 2nd Felt hard for E2.
Felt hard for E2.
markalmack 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ian1987
with Ian1987
Nick1812P 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S ended up leading it all, linking the last two pitches together which felt more like E3 though it could have just been the heat, very sweaty day.
ended up leading it all, linking the last two pitches together which felt more like E3 though it could have just been the heat, very sweaty day.
tim newton 3 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 3 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S On a horrible wet day. I wasn't too keen to go up it but there weren't many other options for getting out. I lead half the third pitch but was then confused at how to do the finger traverse out under the roof. Tim came up then found it must be through the offwidth above instead which we had to take our helmets off to do!
On a horrible wet day. I wasn't too keen to go up it but there weren't many other options for getting out. I lead half the third pitch but was then confused at how to do the finger traverse out under the roof. Tim came up then found it must be through the offwidth above instead which we had to take our helmets off to do!
Ramon Marin 22 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jon Leighton
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 21 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S P2
P2
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Gary Gibson ??, 2015 -
nickstephens 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with gg4419
with gg4419
gg4419 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitch two
Pitch two
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Apharri 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S I led 1 and 2
I led 1 and 2
Graeme Hammond 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S led pitch 2, Beautiful climbing
led pitch 2, Beautiful climbing
Jim Slater 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1 & P3, fantastic climb.. 4 stars.
Led P1 & P3, fantastic climb.. 4 stars.
redjerry 19 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with Ed Morris
with Ed Morris
Ed morris 19 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S 1+3.
with Jerry Handren
1+3.
with Jerry Handren
pipof747 ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
The Grist 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with B.Brewer
with B.Brewer
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29 Mar, 2014 AltLd
Duncan Campbell 29 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Got down very last minute tide-wise intending to do it as 2 teams of 2. Rob, and I got across ok, Bubbles just got across but Gwen was cut off by the tide! I led pitch 2 which is great. Probably tricky to limk the top pitches together.
Got down very last minute tide-wise intending to do it as 2 teams of 2. Rob, and I got across ok, Bubbles just got across but Gwen was cut off by the tide! I led pitch 2 which is great. Probably tricky to limk the top pitches together.
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
James Oswald 7 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P1 and P3. P1 was nice, with one hard move then some juggy ledge shuffling. P2 was really cool, with great technical climbing up the groove. P3 had two grauncy sections and plently of exposure. E1 but a very good one.
Lead P1 and P3. P1 was nice, with one hard move then some juggy ledge shuffling. P2 was really cool, with great technical climbing up the groove. P3 had two grauncy sections and plently of exposure. E1 but a very good one.
Owen W-G 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2 enjoyable once I figured out how to protect start. P3 is my anti style, glad Jim got that one. No pitch harder than hard e1 but e2 methinks for overall experience.
Led P2 enjoyable once I figured out how to protect start. P3 is my anti style, glad Jim got that one. No pitch harder than hard e1 but e2 methinks for overall experience.
soph 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
jgordon75 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
JClimb 9 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with Peter Milner
with Peter Milner
RachelP 8 Jun, 2013 2nd second pitch is awesome. all the gear, all the holds. tip toe in a daydream of heavenly climbing. pitch 3 is a bit of a sting in the tail. finger traverse from the awkward blocks in the groove...awkwardly!
second pitch is awesome. all the gear, all the holds. tip toe in a daydream of heavenly climbing. pitch 3 is a bit of a sting in the tail. finger traverse from the awkward blocks in the groove...awkwardly!
Hidden 26 May, 2013 AltLd
stuart34 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P 1 and 3
with mike thomas
Led P 1 and 3
with mike thomas
jcw ??, 2013 -
jgordon75 ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2013 Lead
Dave Reeve 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S The adrenalin starts the moment you ab down - 50+ metres to the enormous tilted slab...the sea at each end crashing onto the boulders and then 3 pitches of exceptional climbing... The crag itself is very impressive, with many bulging rock faces unlike a lot of the other Pembroke cliffs.. Pitch 1 is failry steady, pitch 2 has a boldish start off the stance as the first protection is several moves up but has beautiful climbing up the groove finishing on an easy slab. Pitch 3 has a strong awkward start up a groove onto small angled slabs but once you leave these the climbing eases off. I don't think running pitch 2 and 3 together would be a good idea unless you have a lot of gear and extend the runners considerably..
with Tony Payne
The adrenalin starts the moment you ab down - 50+ metres to the enormous tilted slab...the sea at each end crashing onto the boulders and then 3 pitches of exceptional climbing... The crag itself is very impressive, with many bulging rock faces unlike a lot of the other Pembroke cliffs.. Pitch 1 is failry steady, pitch 2 has a boldish start off the stance as the first protection is several moves up but has beautiful climbing up the groove finishing on an easy slab. Pitch 3 has a strong awkward start up a groove onto small angled slabs but once you leave these the climbing eases off. I don't think running pitch 2 and 3 together would be a good idea unless you have a lot of gear and extend the runners considerably..
with Tony Payne
al99 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas
with Luke Thomas
cooperman 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S led p1 and 3 - found p3 taxing!
with Tim Whiteley
led p1 and 3 - found p3 taxing!
with Tim Whiteley
Ed Booth 6 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Led middle pitch.
Led middle pitch.
Adam Booth 6 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Si Witcher 1 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with David B-St L, haydng
with David B-St L, haydng
haydng 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Traversed into P2.
with Dave
Traversed into P2.
with Dave
dan gibson 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
Lone Rider ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Phill Mitch 17 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with mick
with mick
irish paul 2 May, 2010 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch
with Dave Ripley
2nd pitch
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 2 May, 2010 AltLd dog
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 Lead
clipskipper 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with Davey Boy
with Davey Boy
Wil Treasure 24 May, 2009 2nd
chiverstom 24 May, 2009 Lead O/S First and last pitches
First and last pitches
Hidden 24 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure ?May, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 26 Aug, 2007 2nd
datoon 26 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with MJ
with MJ
Hidden 25 Jun, 2006 2nd
Paz 25 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Huw
with Huw
cem 30 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S Led it all
with GrahamD
Led it all
with GrahamD
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden ?May, 2004 AltLd O/S
alex_th 30 Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S Lead 1st pitch, Tim lead 2nd and 3rd.
with Tim Riley
Lead 1st pitch, Tim lead 2nd and 3rd.
with Tim Riley
Hidden ??, 2001 AltLd O/S
Boy ??, 2000 -
WB ??, 1999 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
pauldrew 24 May, 1998 2nd
pete johnson 24 May, 1998 Lead O/S
phardman ??, 1997 -
Hidden ??, 1997 -
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead
Hidden 28 Aug, 1995 AltLd rpt
Davros the Psyched ??, 1995 -
pauldrew ??, 1995 -
Hidden 30 Apr, 1994 AltLd
MikePycroft 28 Aug, 1993 AltLd
MikePycroft 28 Aug, 1993 AltLd
steveb2006 28 Aug, 1993 AltLd Mike leads 2nd pitch
Mike leads 2nd pitch
keefe 17 Apr, 1993 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 17 Apr, 1993 -
with keefe
with keefe
lithos ?Apr, 1992 AltLd led p1
with pete wright + jcb
led p1
with pete wright + jcb
Hidden ?Apr, 1992 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??, 1992 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
with Hugh Woodland
whispering nic 3 Aug, 1991 2nd
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
mikej 1 Jun, 1991 AltLd dnf
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Hidden 31 Mar, 1991 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30 Mar, 1991 Lead
Roget 30 Mar, 1991 AltLd O/S
with colin
with colin
Dave Musgrove 30 Mar, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Pete Finklaire
with Pete Finklaire
Andy Say 7 May, 1990 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 6 May, 1990 -
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1990 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 5 Apr, 1988 AltLd
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
wynaptomos ?Oct, 1987 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 1987 -
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
UKB Shark ?Jul, 1986 AltLd
with ?
with ?
Brian Wilderspin 2 Jun, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Steve Clegg 3 Apr, 1986 AltLd
with Gough
with Gough
Neil McA 30 Mar, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
andybirtwistle 9 Apr, 1985 AltLd
with Andy Moss
with Andy Moss
Robmwatt ??, 1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
Steve Lewis 21 Apr, 1984 AltLd O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Hidden 27 Jun, 1982 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Derek Furze ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1973 -
Hidden 1 Jul, 1969 Lead O/S
43 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 41
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set