35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.
2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 15/Apr/1984

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Ed morris 24/Aug AltLd O/S

Finally everything came into place. Bone dry, led pitch 1.

Hidden 24/Aug AltLd O/S
JenShelley 10/Aug 2nd
FlavioL1989 10/Aug Lead O/S

#7 Absolutely ridiculously amazing. The traddiest route I've done in the leap. Oh that tube! Not surprised it gets climbed less than the others. Damp and barely any chalk, thrutching no starred grit chimneys pays dividends, even got an inverted double kneebar! Bonkers!

nathanlee 28/May Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Found the first hard and the second gripping - following part of the belay ripping and nearly taking Heathers head off... wild, feels more of an adventure than other things in near

with Heather
HeatherF 28/May 2nd β

Greasy traversing, then got a block to the head on the belay. Yay!

with Nathan
maddy.c ??/2017 -
Ed Babs 08/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Amazing climbing, but too much for me today. Fell scrabbling for feet moving left from top of the runnel beneath the groove at the of P1. A bit gutted - I'd worked hard to get there! Big soft fall and no heart for another try. Abseiled for gear off a bomber nut, so ground up still on.

with AlexD
mike lawrence? 03/Jul/16 2nd

fantastic, fat gave me plenty of time to watch the tide come in.

with FatRob
WB 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

pretty funky climbing

markalmack 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

lead p1. what a route!

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
thomb 11/Oct/15 2nd
colesy 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great route, very funky climbing.

Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
NDD 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mcmanus
Gus 18/Jul/15 AltLd
with Harold
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 2nd

cool climbing. slightly wet, obvs.

with ben
brunomarks 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

An experience but not one that I enjoyed. For me much harder than the other E5s I did in the weekend - felt like E6 in comparison - because climbing is all hard to read and insecure, often going away from the gear. Very little that you can just crank your way through (technical "spit you out" chimney squirming at the crux). Has you on edge wondering if you are committing to the right moves all the time. 2nd pitch is thankfully contrastingly burly and straightforward! Climbed as one pitch.

with Neil Lowry
drysori 13/Sep/14 AltLd

Led pitch 2, which was hard enough! Greasy climbing, interesting route finding. A great mini-adventure route.

Hidden 13/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 12/Sep/14 2nd O/S
quiffhanger 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

A 4h mega epic. The incoming tide necessitated an impromptu mid-pitch belay & it all went downhill from there. Sooooooo slippy. Saved by Conor's terror-induced crimp strength & a smart decision to re-arrange the belay such that my 8m gear-ripping-whipper off the crux wasn't a Factor 2.

with Conor
Hidden 22/Jun/14 -
Misha 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Shat myself on this. Greasy as sin. And tricky climbing I thought, certainly unconventional. Seconded the first pitch, thank goodness!

Ed Booth 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Fun route.

tim newton 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. One of the most varied and brilliant trad routes I've done.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
steve_yo 26/Aug/13 Lead dnf


Alice Thompson 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Not as tasty as the first, but still a little tricky

dan gibson 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Funky trad!!! Wild 1st pitch, insecure chimney contortions!

with alice thompson
Alex Mason 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led top pitch. went through the hole. Don't know why the fuck I did that. One of the grimest 20 mins ever.

with George Ullrich
feilx 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Billg 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

superb, but no belay stake! - where can I make a donation??

with Will Calvert
valecoastclimber 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

Stunning. Well protected but feels quite comitting. One of the best adventure routes I've done.

Mike Goldthorp 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

2nd easy pitch. First pitch is just magnificent!! Most memorable climb in the Leap, even to 2nd. The funky drop-down crux is cool, and then the massive runnel feature gives brilliant 3D climbing. So jealous Al got to lead it, bastardo!

Alex Mason 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Amazing, amazing route. Crazy climbing up the runnels, moves are interesting and gear is perfectly sufficient. Tricky to read on all the hard sections. Just soooo good! Best route in Pembroke. Taking lots of rock 1's isnt necessary but, do save one for that perfect slot.

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
morganator 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
soph ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Dan McManus
Justin T 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
Toby Dunn 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with JulesV
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

with Steve Adams
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
sadams 28/Aug/00 AltLd
with Tom Briggs
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
sadams 29/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Steve Crowe 31/Aug/96 Lead O/S

Fantastic and memorable.

with KM
Hidden 28/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 29/May/94 Lead
with Tim Seabourne
keefe 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
Gary Gibson ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S

With my terrified wife!

mitch1960 ??/1987 Lead
with Alan Dance
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