45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the triangular niche and the crack above it. From here either move left and up to the pegs, or climb the flake on the right - both 5b. Make a desperate series of moves up and left into a scoop. Step left again to another scoop to belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Step up and clip a thread than move back down and traverse left in an impressive position to reach another runnel. Follow this direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 03/Apr/1984

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
La Mont 17/Aug/16 AltLd β

lead 1st pitch

with Ellis
Luke Brooks 11/Aug/16 AltLd
with Will
willoates 11/Aug/16 Lead β

Lead the 1st on lukes gear up to the crux. Thought the crux was about as hard as Minotaur, more technical but slightly easier move. The gear is worse on the crux though. 2nd pitch was awesome!

with Luke
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Misha 04/Jun/16 AltLd

Led P1, greasy to start, felt like I was being chased by witches! Good rest before the crux and thankfully dry by then. Pinged off the crux as didn't bridge out enough before going for the hole. Small fall onto the rusty peg. Fine second go. Mark did P2, which still packs a punch in places. Haven't logged 'with fall' so would count for extreme rock ticklist.

with Mark S
Mark Stevenson 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Misha led crux, 1st pitch.

with Misha
soph 04/Jun/16 AltLd rpt

lead pitch 1 - not easy for shorties

Jonny Nick 03/Jun/16 Lead

Dan took first pitch I did the second... Exciting!

miastacey ?/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, got pitch 1 clean.

with Sophie Whyte
Stefan_Morris 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch, cool scoopy rock

Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch.

Dan-Cheetham ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
bigie bob 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Gus 18/Jul/15 AltLd


with bob hickish
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 2nd

nails crux! fell off then found it a bit up hill to get back on

with ben
phil64 ??/2015 -
Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
Sarah Black 21/Sep/14 AltLd

Awesome route with a very hard crux! Lead the second pitch which gets you climbing in some really cool positions

irish paul 21/Sep/14 AltLd
Apharri 23/Aug/14 Lead

Tried this proper onsight. Couldnt work out how to get right hand in slot. After falling I found the 'hidden' holds. Reckon I would have flashed it!!

with Dave Wharton
Rachel Slater 20/Aug/14 AltLd

Urgh, fell off the first pitch with my fingers touching the jug at the end of the crux. Lead pitch 2 which was funky.

tim newton 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. No power scream...easy 6b?

Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
steve_yo 26/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Alice Thompson 09/Jun/13 Lead dog

Fantastic climb. Fell off at the end of crux onto dogdy piton... Added to the excitement a little!

dan gibson 09/Jun/13 AltLd

Seconded pitch 1,Fell off trying to find the jug in the runnel, very hard crux sequence. Alice took a pretty good fall onto the crappy peg, it held somehow!

with alice thompson
JBO 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch, amazing climbing the whole way, with a really tough crux! I kept trying different sequences without committing, getting very pumped. I eventually committed to the pocket (which was wet!) and was relieved to find the jug in the runnel. Dad led the second pitch which was equally good. Gets E4/5 in the new guide (and in my book) due to the piss-poor state of the peg below a very hard crux.

Ed Booth 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. Ace route.

Adam Booth 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 2nd
with Steve Ansen
mike mo 28/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/11 AltLd
thomasadixon 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, damn hard moves for E4 and really not typical pembroke felt more like grit. Great route.

with Mike
feilx 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

pocket was a little wet

with Andy L
valecoastclimber 02/May/11 Lead O/S
owenH ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead O/S

Hard crux. Peg not in the best condition but possible to back up with gear behind the flake to the right.

with Sam Underhill
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

Peg is rubbish, and the flake is a bit hollow sounding. Add to that a hard crux, and it's E5 in my book. Great route, best done in one huge pitch. Cant believe I ignored it for so long

Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Alex Mason 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

A great route with a savage crux, but superb rock as usual! Led P2.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Beastly crux, had to really bone and was close to coming off! First 6b onsight

Billg 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Superb route. Done in 1 long sweeping pitch - definitely the way to go

with Will Calvert
soph ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Dan McManus
phil64 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with JulesV
Gus 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

led both pitches due to tired belayer!!

robyn1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
ali_robb ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/May/05 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/02 2nd
jfletcher 30/May/99 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Aug/98 Lead
sadams 02/May/98 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
PaulTanton 24/May/97 AltLd dog
phardman ??/1997 -
Steve Long ??/1996 Lead
Roget 23/Jun/95 Lead dog

fell once from crux

with jon
Greg Cunningham ?/Jun/95 Lead dog

1 or 3 falls at crux I think

with nigel birtwell
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30/May/94 Lead
with Sophie Milner
Hidden 24/Jul/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/90 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1990 AltLd
with Stuart Bolton
keefe ??/1990 -
Eduardo Martinez 29/May/89 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 06/Jul/87 Lead
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S
with Mark Cole
AlexRenshaw 09/May/87 Lead
with Tom Lewis
Mike Owen 21/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Green
mitch1960 ??/1987 Lead
with Alan Dance
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 01/Sep/85 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 22
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set