Rockfax Description
A superb route that is low in the grade. The first half is serious and the big move at the top is entirely dependent on reach, varying from 5c for the very tall to desperate 6b for shorties. Start from the block and move left to the crack. Climb back rightwards to a red pancake (runners) then make bold-but-easy moves left back into the crack. Climb easily up above heading back rightwards to the bulge. Pull over this into a big hole then up to a ledge in a corner. A belay here makes it easy to keep an eye on your second. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye 07/Jan/1984

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hannes B 30/Aug/17 Lead β
with Charlie
Russell Blackaller 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Emma T
harry_lewis 19/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Ed Teale
mrteale 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S

First e5. Very happy to to tick this. The bold lower wall was spooky and the top crux is just ace.

brices 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Bottom felt bold, top was pretty relaxed then a big move, hard to call it an on-sight given the photo of the crux is in the guide and its well known that their is a hard move at the top. But given that it felt like a journey

with Llinos
rhoslynfrugtniet 13/Aug/17 Lead β

So good! Good job there is a knee- bar before the big move!

with Cai, Si Rawlinson
Kris2fa 09/Aug/17 2nd β
with Adam24B
Adam24B 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S

I new about the famous long reach and thought it would be fine because I'm tall... was not the case, had to up and down three times before managing to reach far enough to latch it. Very happy to have got this, it has a superb lower section.

Flavio 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S

#1. Came to Pembroke to do mileage E1-3 but Suspense got my head back for E5 since the Fairhead incident... Climbed in a drizzle bizzle, normal service has resumed!

JendeHoxar 06/Aug/17 2nd
with Flavio
Ramon Marin 05/Aug/17 2nd rpt

epic watching Dougie dyno the crux twice, felt short first time, and second gave it some bean and actually went past the pocket. What a hero!

with Douglas Russell
D.Russell 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

hard move at the top for shortys just need to give it the beans. Bold lower section to the thread.

with Ramon
maddy.c 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Tricky move for the short. Amazing jug, but had to throw for it a bit

Neil Adams 30/Jul/17 2nd O/S
andyinglis 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S


Katekeltie 02/Jul/17 2nd dog
with Fatboy
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 02/Jul/17 Lead G/U
feilx 25/Jun/17 2nd RP
with Gaetan L
funsized 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

First E5! Awesome route.

with sophie, Gaton, Nikolai, Callum, Felix
Sophie Nunn 25/Jun/17 2nd dog

Long move at the top!

Hidden 24/Jun/17 2nd dog
Haydn Jones 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S

One of the best

with Paul reeves
amccann 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Quite bold at the start, surprisingly good holds through the crux. Very humid day in the leap.

with Shaun H
Wendy 27/May/17 Lead O/S
with Gaz
Timothy Miller 22/Apr/17 Lead G/U

Bollocks, gutted to fall off the last move. Guess I must be short, had to really jump for it in the end. Easy going up till there though

Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
Ramon Marin 10/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Double whammy of weekend, ticked both of my long standing classics left to do in Pembroke, Barbarella and this. The climbing is so good! It's very soft for the ones with the apex index, and very well protected, except the little run out at the start.

with viki harvey
Dangerous Dave 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Bit greasy but steady away. Great pitch!

La Mont 16/Aug/16 2nd β
with Ellis
JendeHoxar 15/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Mike
MichaelGallimore 15/Aug/16 Lead β

Didn't think I'd get this one, as the guide says it has a long reach, and I'm a shorty. Just looked like too good a route not to try though! I looked hard at multiple photos of the crux move in different guidebooks beforehand, so I knew what was coming.

pete johnson 12/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Ed Babs 09/Aug/16 Lead dog

Lovely climbing. Fell at crux. Lack of commitment, as I got it immediately afterwards. Bugger. Next time - hang to right off pocket and good crimp, right foot outside edge on big chalked foothold.

with AlexD
AlexD 09/Aug/16 2nd dnf
with Ed
Greg Cunningham 08/Aug/16 Lead rpt

seconded Nigel Birtwell in 1995 - brilliant route.

with Debbie
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 05/Jun/16 2nd rpt
NDD 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead
WB 28/May/16 Lead G/U

Disappointed not to flash it. Bloody amazing route. That last move is...

markalmack 28/May/16 Lead RP

went a lot smoother this time with dry holds. bottom is still a bit scary

willoates 08/May/16 Lead β

Awesome! One of the best routes I've done for a while! Good fun.

with Glyn
GPN 08/May/16 Lead β

Really enjoyed this one! Pretty much on-sight, hard not to know that the crux move is dynamic!

with Julia, Trad Exchange
Glyn 08/May/16 2nd O/S


with Will Oates
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Russell Birkett 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Long pitch with great climbing. A bold start leading to stretchy crux moves at the top.

with Tim Whitaker
anguskille 16/Aug/15 Lead β

Funny sort of route, deserves to be a classic. Took a while for me to commit to the top move, I tried it static a few times before really going for it. I took the flash as I knew enough about the notorious crux move and could see it all from the top.

with Mike Grant
will smith11 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S


with Twisty
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 -

big move!

with ben
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
irish paul 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 13/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Misha 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
Matt Cooke 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Ed morris 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Fun crux move and spicy but steady lower section. Lots of easy climbing between. The lower limit of the grade.

with Martin
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead rpt
JM 27/Jul/14 Lead
JM 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
oliver.ghill91 05/Jul/14 TR O/S
jacobjacob 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Took a while to commit on the crux. Another mega classic!

with Rob Greenwood
markalmack 18/Apr/14 Lead dog

Felt scared moving back left into the groove above poor gear. Managed to chill out a bit up to the crux. The crux crimp was dripping, so dabbed as much chalk on it as i could, then went for it. Hand pinged off as i was touching the jug. felt robbed. think i would have done it if it was dry.

with james marjot
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 -
with Sam Underhill
steve_yo 26/Aug/13 2nd
with matty, Rick hard Rock
Ricky Rocks 26/Aug/13 Lead β

A great route, fairly steady all the way, the top move did feel big. Can't really claim a true on sight as it's v.hard not to be aware of beta on these popular routes..

tim newton 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JBO 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

I'd put off doing this for a while because I was worried I wouldn't make the crux reach but I arrived down the Leap to find the route I'd wanted to do occupied, so I got on it anyway. The start was bolder than I expected! The finish wasn't too bad - just keep udging up for that pocket.

Ally Smith 24/Aug/13 Lead β

Retro-flash. Failed to do 'the move' about 8 years ago; cruised it this time around.

with Aly
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd
Tom Livingstone 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S

So psyched to get this! Bold at the start to a pumpy crux

Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with michael porter
Keendan 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Scary start. Physically easy but very insecure moves high above the gear. Crux was ok going with full commitment. The move is obvious and you can see the hold from the top of the crag :) Great route.

with Remus
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd dog
Alice Thompson 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

Fell at top

dan gibson 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with alice thompson
Gus 26/May/13 2nd
with bob hickish
bigie bob 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 04/May/13 Lead rpt

First time I've managed the crux moves. Ahhhhhhh...

with Jemma Powell
quiffhanger 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Easy but bold: got gripped. Latched the long reach with a single fingertip!

theotherpetehill 15/Jul/12 2nd dog

Fell off fairly low down; couldn't get crux move either; swung across onto the top of Head Hunter to finish up that

with Ross McKerchar
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Seems I am the short. Use the crap crimp not the good one, slap for the sloper, set up then dyno for the jug! Class move! Super bold low down, though I guess not that hard.

with Mike
al99 15/May/11 2nd O/S
colesy 15/May/11 Lead O/S

First E5, quality.

with al99
Luke Brooks 27/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
Pete Graham 24/Apr/11 2nd
malx ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
owenH ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 Lead O/S

absolute gift at the grade (if your 6'3" and don't mind going a bit dynamic)

Fran S8 29/Aug/10 2nd

1 fall on the reachy move out right.

Mike Goldthorp 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Sweet route, as is every route in the Leap! The crux reach is a monster, felt long even though I'm quite tall. But bomber gear and a really good handhold to go off - shorties, the challenge is set, would be a well good effort!

Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd dog
Chad123 22/May/10 AltLd dnf

The leap is not in great condition at the moment, slimy rock and seeping cracks. Found this hard work and went off route above pancake before backing off with tail between legs....will come back!

with Emily
Alex Mason 26/Feb/10 Lead

Enjoyed to the crux, the the crimps were wet so had to yard off a finger lock, but couldnt make it, took a couple of wingers but ended up get a rope dropped. very reach dependent.

Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 25/Aug/09 Lead
with JulesV
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S


Adam Booth 13/Sep/08 2nd dog
datoon 24/Aug/08 Lead dog

Had to end up dynoing for the good jug got it on the 3rd try. Really great day in the Leap though :)

with K
morganator 13/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Rich Cross
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead dog
dts 13/Jul/08 2nd
Adam Long 31/May/08 2nd
with Jvan Tresch, Ben Bransby
sam83 ??/2008 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
valecoastclimber 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S


with KM
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead β
ali_robb ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
feilx 24/Jun/07 2nd dog
with Steve P
dan gibson 07/May/07 Lead O/S
with martina
Gus 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 04/May/07 Lead O/S
with Al
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead dog
Boy ??/2006 -
Si Clapham ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Craig Lonsdale
Steve Long ??/2005 Lead
spidey 24/Aug/03 2nd
whispering nic ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with The Wife
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/00 Lead O/S
ellis ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Sam Chinnery
Roget 27/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
Rich Kirby 31/May/98 Lead O/S

Very good. Bottom end E5. Boldish start, super safe finish.....dyno finish if your like me.... weak.

duncan 27/Jul/97 2nd
with Hugo Glover
sadams 29/Mar/97 2nd
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Sep/96 Lead
with Al Willoner
Greg Cunningham ?/Jun/95 2nd
with nigel birtwell
michael burrows 20/Aug/94 2nd
with andy boorman
Billg ?/May/94 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples
Hidden 28/Aug/93 Lead O/S
keefe 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 13/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Steve Walker ??/1992 Lead
with paul
Alan James - UKC and UKH 04/Aug/91 Lead
PaulTanton ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Garath Bloor
Neil McA 12/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Martin Mandel
Hidden 06/Jul/87 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 25/May/87 Lead O/S
with Nick Postlethwaite
Hidden ??/1987 2nd
mitch1960 ??/1987 Lead
with Alan Dance
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Stuart Bolton
Mike Owen 28/May/86 Lead O/S
with Eric Rooseberry
Hidden 07/Jan/84 Lead
Gary Gibson ?/May/83 Lead

Soloed it in 1986 after having done it loads of times before. 5c with my reach?

with Hazel
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 43
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set