Rockfax Description
The rising line of cracks and blobs gives a wonderful pitch. High in the grade and the moves to reach the central ramp are quite committing. Climb the cracks (good but hard earned gear) to the ramp. Move up ledges on the left to reach a small groove. Climb this to its top then step left and belay as for Minotaur. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 31/Mar/1984

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 20 For 2019, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?), Theo's Pembroke ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
John Alcock 14 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant, classic wall climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant, classic wall climbing.
The Jazz Butcher 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't think that this was particularly worthy of the fluttery heart symbol. The only slightly bold section is near the bottom where you can get a small wire in a crack out to left. This then protects the tricky move right. After that it is good gear and steady climbing. Fantastic route!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't think that this was particularly worthy of the fluttery heart symbol. The only slightly bold section is near the bottom where you can get a small wire in a crack out to left. This then protects the tricky move right. After that it is good gear and steady climbing. Fantastic route!!
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 11 May Lead O/S
Matt Amos 5 May Lead O/S Awesome climbing, with JUST enough gear. 1st half of the pitch is wicked.
Awesome climbing, with JUST enough gear. 1st half of the pitch is wicked.
Dexter JW 5 May 2nd O/S
treesrockice 21 Apr 2nd dog Fell off getting a wire out, otherwise clean. Certainly inspired for a future lead burn!
Fell off getting a wire out, otherwise clean. Certainly inspired for a future lead burn!
Mike_Hayes 21 Apr Lead β
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 21 Apr Lead rpt Brilliant, such an intense sequence up the fingery holds with the wires disappearing beneath you. It felt considerably easier than when I seconded it last year but it was still a bit of a fight.
with Anna G
Brilliant, such an intense sequence up the fingery holds with the wires disappearing beneath you. It felt considerably easier than when I seconded it last year but it was still a bit of a fight.
with Anna G
ian d f 27 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Dan Arkle 27 Aug, 2018 2nd Seconded Malc. Great route, had onsighted it a few years ago.
Seconded Malc. Great route, had onsighted it a few years ago.
mshorter 25 Aug, 2018 Lead G/U 2nd go after a wobble on the first bold section.
with Mike C
2nd go after a wobble on the first bold section.
with Mike C
ian d f 23 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 9 Aug, 2018 2nd One of the scarier belays I've given as Fatboy was peeling off the holds and chucking small wires in.
One of the scarier belays I've given as Fatboy was peeling off the holds and chucking small wires in.
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 9 Aug, 2018 Lead G/U
with Theo Moore
with Theo Moore
brices 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Really amazing lower wall. Thought the protection was more than good enough, a wire and a can out left. Was expecting this to be harder.
with Wendy
Really amazing lower wall. Thought the protection was more than good enough, a wire and a can out left. Was expecting this to be harder.
with Wendy
AlexRenshaw 15 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Tim Raffle
with Tim Raffle
Ramon Marin 29 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt Felt hard with the conditions today. Glad to put this one to bed specially in my current bad form
with viki harvey
Felt hard with the conditions today. Glad to put this one to bed specially in my current bad form
with viki harvey
rhoslynfrugtniet 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Em T, Si Rawlinson
with Em T, Si Rawlinson
Alice Thompson 18 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Anna
with Anna
JendeHoxar 10 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S #8 Spicy! As classic as the other E5s down there ***. Forced rest days do actually work, 3rd XX day, 3 E5's IAD and 3 legs between us! Not stopping till my arms fall off!
with Jumar Jenny
#8 Spicy! As classic as the other E5s down there ***. Forced rest days do actually work, 3rd XX day, 3 E5's IAD and 3 legs between us! Not stopping till my arms fall off!
with Jumar Jenny
Ramon Marin 6 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf Didn't feel it today, total melt down of arms as it is currently happening to me a lot. I didn't fancy the fall or blowing the onsight so I downclimbed from the rail and stripped the gear. Will go back for a rematch for sure.
with Douglas Russell
Didn't feel it today, total melt down of arms as it is currently happening to me a lot. I didn't fancy the fall or blowing the onsight so I downclimbed from the rail and stripped the gear. Will go back for a rematch for sure.
with Douglas Russell
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
feilx 25 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
with Gaetan L
with Gaetan L
funsized 25 Jun, 2017 2nd Another beasting from sophie.
with sophie, Gaton, Nikolai, Callum, feilx
Another beasting from sophie.
with sophie, Gaton, Nikolai, Callum, feilx
Sophie Nunn 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
beni 24 Jun, 2017 Lead
aiyer 14 Jun, 2017 2nd Bit bold - sporty 7a
with beni
Bit bold - sporty 7a
with beni
D.Russell 3 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Wendy 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Holister 21 May, 2017 2nd O/S Amazing route, defiantly will come back to lead.
with Wendy
Amazing route, defiantly will come back to lead.
with Wendy
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Hidden ??, 2017 -
andyinglis 9 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Murdoch Jamieson
with Murdoch Jamieson
Steve Long 20 Aug, 2016 2nd Stag party fun! Good lead by Calum as the first half was pretty wet throughout
with Dan McManus, Calum Muskett
Stag party fun! Good lead by Calum as the first half was pretty wet throughout
with Dan McManus, Calum Muskett
La Mont 17 Aug, 2016 2nd β
with Ellis
with Ellis
Hidden 9 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ?Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
katy_abra 4 Jun, 2016 2nd
dan gibson 4 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
with Katerina petkova
with Katerina petkova
Ed morris 1 Jun, 2016 Lead β Have backed off in the past.
Have backed off in the past.
Leedearden 29 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
with Sam Taylor
chris m fisher 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ben
with Ben
GPN 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Lee Dearden
with Lee Dearden
James Smith 14 May, 2016 Lead dnf My first go at a proper e5, got a bit psyched out! Gripped and panicky, ended up falling off towards the top of the initial hard section. Seconded Si up it after I'd blown it and it felt much easier... it seems my head isnt quite there just yet!
with si tappin
My first go at a proper e5, got a bit psyched out! Gripped and panicky, ended up falling off towards the top of the initial hard section. Seconded Si up it after I'd blown it and it felt much easier... it seems my head isnt quite there just yet!
with si tappin
Glyn 8 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with Will Oates
with Will Oates
willoates 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S Well good! Felt quite solid at e5 because I have seen a lot of gear strip out recently and a lot of the gear was quite shallow. Brilliant climbing. Managed to manage the pump, but felt quite tired.
with Glyn
Well good! Felt quite solid at e5 because I have seen a lot of gear strip out recently and a lot of the gear was quite shallow. Brilliant climbing. Managed to manage the pump, but felt quite tired.
with Glyn
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
anguskille 16 Aug, 2015 Lead β Sporty first section as you've just got to press on and not wait around getting pumped. Great stuff though. I've taken the flash as there were a couple of pieces of gear already in that I was retrieving for some other guys.
with Mike Grant
Sporty first section as you've just got to press on and not wait around getting pumped. Great stuff though. I've taken the flash as there were a couple of pieces of gear already in that I was retrieving for some other guys.
with Mike Grant
Ed Babs 12 Aug, 2015 Lead dog Maybe a bad route choice - I was not prepared to gamble a deck out from the crux on a wire I couldn't see. Rested to check it out, it looked ok and so I continued. Hats off to people who took the risk.
with AlexD
Maybe a bad route choice - I was not prepared to gamble a deck out from the crux on a wire I couldn't see. Rested to check it out, it looked ok and so I continued. Hats off to people who took the risk.
with AlexD
AlexD 12 Aug, 2015 2nd Fantastic route... to second! Scary lead (and belay!) tho. Great moves throughout, amazing holds. Getting off the black ledge is a bit of a thinker!
with Ed Babs
Fantastic route... to second! Scary lead (and belay!) tho. Great moves throughout, amazing holds. Getting off the black ledge is a bit of a thinker!
with Ed Babs
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?Jul, 2015 - wow! had the beta for the gear, still felt a bit scary. got sneaky gear before mantaling onto easy ground
with ben
wow! had the beta for the gear, still felt a bit scary. got sneaky gear before mantaling onto easy ground
with ben
Hidden 25 May, 2015 Lead β
Gus 25 May, 2015 2nd
with guy van greuning
with guy van greuning
NDD 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with tony stone
with tony stone
markalmack 23 May, 2015 Lead β Had a little gear beta from nick
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Had a little gear beta from nick
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Wil Treasure 7 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf A bit greasy, but really my head wasn't screwed on
A bit greasy, but really my head wasn't screwed on
Tom Livingstone 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
irish paul 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 20 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Cool route. Had to be quite creative to get off the sloping ledge!
Cool route. Had to be quite creative to get off the sloping ledge!
tim newton 20 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
Duncan Campbell 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing. Have wanted to do this for ages and am so psyched my first E5 was in the Leap, my favourite crag. Lower wall is just perfect, with a heart in mouth cruxy section to the ledge. Make sure you get the blind wire in well (email me if you want the beta) Hard but well protected move off the ledge if you are short into a bold but steady groove. Phwoar. ***
Amazing. Have wanted to do this for ages and am so psyched my first E5 was in the Leap, my favourite crag. Lower wall is just perfect, with a heart in mouth cruxy section to the ledge. Make sure you get the blind wire in well (email me if you want the beta) Hard but well protected move off the ledge if you are short into a bold but steady groove. Phwoar. ***
jacobjacob 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Quite bold! I was much more scared on this than on Minotaur, hung around for a while getting pumped fiddling with wires.
Quite bold! I was much more scared on this than on Minotaur, hung around for a while getting pumped fiddling with wires.
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
pipof747 ?Jun, 2014 Lead β
Hidden 17 May, 2014 2nd
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
nathanlee 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Felt a bit harder than Bloody Sunday so probs E5. 3*.
with Rob Greenwood
Felt a bit harder than Bloody Sunday so probs E5. 3*.
with Rob Greenwood
tim newton 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Took the slow and pumpy approach on the lower wall, as I wasn't as happy initially with the gear for the runout to the ledge as I expected to be. More E5 than the Minotaur. The lower wall especially is brilliant.
with Misha
Took the slow and pumpy approach on the lower wall, as I wasn't as happy initially with the gear for the runout to the ledge as I expected to be. More E5 than the Minotaur. The lower wall especially is brilliant.
with Misha
Misha 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Jack_F 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with remus
with remus
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2014 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
with Sam Underhill
JBO 26 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Definitely worth E5, and three stars! The first section is just brilliant, the climbing is so absorbing and there's just enough gear to keep it safe but spicey, then a pumpy top section. I found the crux to be moving out left from the black crozzly ledge, felt pretty committing without any footholds.
Definitely worth E5, and three stars! The first section is just brilliant, the climbing is so absorbing and there's just enough gear to keep it safe but spicey, then a pumpy top section. I found the crux to be moving out left from the black crozzly ledge, felt pretty committing without any footholds.
bigie bob 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Jake Young 15 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
climbingsheep 15 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with Jake Young, Mike Watson
with Jake Young, Mike Watson
theotherpetehill 15 Jul, 2012 2nd dog Rested on rope at crucial wire placement to get gear out
with Ross McKerchar
Rested on rope at crucial wire placement to get gear out
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Pumpy & very enjoyable. Very glad I managed to place the crucial wire before the run-out to the ledge as the only other bit was a crap RP.
Pumpy & very enjoyable. Very glad I managed to place the crucial wire before the run-out to the ledge as the only other bit was a crap RP.
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
beci tointen ?Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
with my uncle carl
Mike_Hayes 29 Aug, 2011 2nd
with ChrisC
with ChrisC
Hidden 6 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
redjerry ?Aug, 2011 TR O/S felt fingery and pumpy low down.
felt fingery and pumpy low down.
colesy 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with John Orr
with John Orr
Pippa 25 Apr, 2011 2nd
Mike Goldthorp 3 Apr, 2011 Lead β Sick, lower wall is off the hook funkiness, middle is a nice preamble and top groove is superb; the Leap is where its at!
Sick, lower wall is off the hook funkiness, middle is a nice preamble and top groove is superb; the Leap is where its at!
miastacey ?Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Tough move off the rest for shorties - thought I was going to blow it after all the hard work. Great route - climb fast!
with Bob Smith
Tough move off the rest for shorties - thought I was going to blow it after all the hard work. Great route - climb fast!
with Bob Smith
owenH ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
phil64 ??, 2011 -
soph ?Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
feilx 20 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
Adam Booth 20 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S Really nice to finally climb this brillant route, conditions were spot-on. I did spend to long on the bottom wall and got v. pumped.
Really nice to finally climb this brillant route, conditions were spot-on. I did spend to long on the bottom wall and got v. pumped.
phil64 ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Dave-Westlake ??, 2009 -
Hidden 19 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
morganator 12 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rich Cross and Es Tressider
with Rich Cross and Es Tressider
Adam Long 31 May, 2008 Lead β pumped again!
with Jvan Tresch, Ben Bransby
pumped again!
with Jvan Tresch, Ben Bransby
sam83 ??, 2008 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??, 2008 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 2008 2nd
with Jon Morgan
with Jon Morgan
Alex Mason 28 Aug, 2007 Lead β Seconded steve a few months prior but with maximum dogging, could barely climb it then. Also gained gear beta off Gareth H just before setting off, a blind but bomber rock 4 high and left of the hand rail before moving onto the ledge. delicate and unpredictable move leaving the black right hand ledge, an array of decent wires protects great climbing up the upper groove. F6c and not that bold, but pumpy on the lower wall if not taken quickly.
Seconded steve a few months prior but with maximum dogging, could barely climb it then. Also gained gear beta off Gareth H just before setting off, a blind but bomber rock 4 high and left of the hand rail before moving onto the ledge. delicate and unpredictable move leaving the black right hand ledge, an array of decent wires protects great climbing up the upper groove. F6c and not that bold, but pumpy on the lower wall if not taken quickly.
Steve Crowe 26 Aug, 2007 Lead β All led it, Karin went first, then Ian Denton, then me.
with karin
All led it, Karin went first, then Ian Denton, then me.
with karin
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 -
Hidden 27 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
ali_robb ?Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 6 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Si Witcher ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 Lead O/S
mgeek ?Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with ged& matty
with ged& matty
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched ??, 2006 Lead rpt
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Gus 29 May, 2005 Lead β
daveayton ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Kev Power
with Kev Power
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 2nd β
with Craig Lonsdale
with Craig Lonsdale
valecoastclimber 5 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
spidey 24 Aug, 2003 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
whispering nic ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with lee byrnes
with lee byrnes
pete johnson 1 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden ?May, 2001 2nd rpt
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
with andy benson
with andy benson
Alan Cameron-Duff ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Heather, Toby
with Heather, Toby
Rich Kirby 13 Sep, 1999 Lead β
with Robin
with Robin
Roget 25 May, 1999 Lead G/U Tried a few years earlier when I ran out of the best size of nut to protect the run out bit and lowered off.
with jon
Tried a few years earlier when I ran out of the best size of nut to protect the run out bit and lowered off.
with jon
Hidden 4 May, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead dnf
PaulTanton 31 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with Chris Brockbank
with Chris Brockbank
sadams 16 Aug, 1998 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
innes ?Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
with Jon Bracey
Pete Wimbush ?Jun, 1998 2nd rpt
with Kev Little
with Kev Little
Hidden 25 May, 1998 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 2 May, 1998 Lead O/S
with Muir Morton
with Muir Morton
duncan 27 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
with Hugo Glover
sadams 29 Mar, 1997 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Pete Wimbush ?Aug, 1996 2nd
with Dave Langrish
with Dave Langrish
Hidden ??, 1996 -
Greg Cunningham ?Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with nigel birtwell
with nigel birtwell
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
keefe 31 Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 3 May, 1992 Lead O/S
with Graham Baxter
with Graham Baxter
Steve Walker ??, 1992 Lead
with paul
with paul
AlexRenshaw 28 Jul, 1991 2nd
with Dor? Green
with Dor? Green
Billg 2 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
with Jon Barton
Alan James - UKC and UKH 27 May, 1990 Lead
Hidden 5 May, 1990 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 28 Apr, 1990 Lead
with Dor? Green
with Dor? Green
DDDD ??, 1990 -
with Stuart Bolton
with Stuart Bolton
Neil McA 11 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
with Martin Mandel
with Martin Mandel
UKB Shark 31 May, 1987 Lead
with Rich, John, Dave from London
with Rich, John, Dave from London
mitch1960 ??, 1987 Lead
with Alan Dance
with Alan Dance
Adrian Gostick ??, 1987 Lead
Hidden 20 Sep, 1986 Lead
Mike Owen 26 Aug, 1985 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ?Apr, 1985 -
Gary Gibson ??, 1984 Lead O/S Second ascent. Soloed it a couple of times as well.
with Phil Gibson
Second ascent. Soloed it a couple of times as well.
with Phil Gibson
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 43
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set