Rockfax Description
The rising line of cracks and blobs gives a wonderful pitch. High in the grade and the moves to reach the central ramp are quite committing. Climb the cracks (good but hard earned gear) to the ramp. Move up ledges on the left to reach a small groove. Climb this to its top then step left and belay as for Minotaur. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 31/Mar/1984

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 20 For 2017, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist.

Ramon Marin 29/Aug Lead rpt

Felt hard with the conditions today. Glad to put this one to bed specially in my current bad form

with viki harvey
rhoslynfrugtniet 27/Aug Lead O/S
with Em T, Si Rawlinson
Alice Thompson 18/Aug 2nd
with Anna
JendeHoxar 10/Aug 2nd
FlavioL1989 10/Aug Lead O/S

#8 Spicy! As classic as the other E5s down there ***. Forced rest days actually do work, 3rd XX day, 3 E5s IAD and 3 legs between us! Not stopping till my arms fall off!

with Jenny
Ramon Marin 06/Aug Lead dnf

Didn't feel it today, total melt down of arms as it is currently happening to me a lot. I didn't fancy the fall or blowing the onsight so I downclimbed from the rail and stripped the gear. Will go back for a rematch for sure.

with Douglas Russell
Hidden 05/Aug Lead O/S
feilx 25/Jun Lead RP
with Gaetan L
funsized 25/Jun 2nd

Another beasting from sophie.

with sophie, Gaton, Nikolai, Callum, Felix
Sophie Nunn 25/Jun Lead O/S
beni 24/Jun Lead
D.Russell 03/Jun 2nd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 03/Jun Lead O/S
Wendy 21/May Lead O/S
with Chris H
Holister 21/May 2nd O/S

Amazing route, defiantly will come back to lead.

with Wendy
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
andyinglis 09/Oct/16 2nd
with Murdoch Jamieson
Steve Long 20/Aug/16 2nd

Stag party fun! Good lead by Calum as the first half was pretty wet throughout

with Dan McManus, Calum Muskett
La Mont 17/Aug/16 2nd β
with Ellis
Hidden 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
katy_abra 04/Jun/16 2nd
dan gibson 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Katerina petkova
Ed morris 01/Jun/16 Lead β

Have backed off in the past.

Leedearden 29/May/16 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
GPN 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Lee Dearden
James S 14/May/16 Lead dnf

My first go at a proper e5, got a bit psyched out! Gripped and panicky, ended up falling off towards the top of the initial hard section. Seconded Si up it after I'd blown it and it felt much easier... it seems my head isnt quite there just yet!

with si tappin
Glyn 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Will Oates
willoates 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Well good! Felt quite solid at e5 because I have seen a lot of gear strip out recently and a lot of the gear was quite shallow. Brilliant climbing. Managed to manage the pump, but felt quite tired.

with Glyn
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
anguskille 16/Aug/15 Lead β

Sporty first section as you've just got to press on and not wait around getting pumped. Great stuff though. I've taken the flash as there were a couple of pieces of gear already in that I was retrieving for some other guys.

with Mike Grant
Ed Babs 12/Aug/15 Lead dog

Maybe a bad route choice - I was not prepared to gamble a deck out from the crux on a wire I couldn't see. Rested to check it out, it looked ok and so I continued. Hats off to people who took the risk.

with AlexD
AlexD 12/Aug/15 2nd

Fantastic route... to second! Scary lead (and belay!) tho. Great moves throughout, amazing holds. Getting off the black ledge is a bit of a thinker!

with Ed
tash 01/Aug/15 2nd
with ali k
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 -

wow! had the beta for the gear, still felt a bit scary. got sneaky gear before mantaling onto easy ground

with ben
Wood for Trees 25/May/15 Lead β

On a few pieces of Pete's gear after he fell off from the first crozzles, definetly helped keep the pump down but they are sinker (i'd have been alright). With beta for the next gear I had a great experience getting really commited. There's another 5c/6a move off the ledge for those of 5'7 or below. Very happy.

with gus, Pete Graham
Gus 25/May/15 2nd
with guy van greuning
NDD 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with tony stone
markalmack 23/May/15 Lead β

Had a little gear beta from nick

drysori 07/Apr/15 Lead dnf

A bit greasy, but really my head wasn't screwed on

Tom Livingstone 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
irish paul 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Cool route. Had to be quite creative to get off the sloping ledge!

tim newton 20/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Duncan Campbell 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. Have wanted to do this for ages and am so psyched my first E5 was in the Leap, my favourite crag. Lower wall is just perfect, with a heart in mouth cruxy section to the ledge. Make sure you get the blind wire in well (email me if you want the beta) Hard but well protected move off the ledge if you are short into a bold but steady groove. Phwoar. ***

jacobjacob 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Quite bold! I was much more scared on this than on Minotaur, hung around for a while getting pumped fiddling with wires.

Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Felt a bit harder than Bloody Sunday so probs E5. 3*.

with Rob Greenwood
tim newton 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Took the slow and pumpy approach on the lower wall, as I wasn't as happy initially with the gear for the runout to the ledge as I expected to be. More E5 than the Minotaur. The lower wall especially is brilliant.

Misha 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Jack_F 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Remus
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
JBO 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Definitely worth E5, and three stars! The first section is just brilliant, the climbing is so absorbing and there's just enough gear to keep it safe but spicey, then a pumpy top section. I found the crux to be moving out left from the black crozzly ledge, felt pretty committing without any footholds.

bigie bob 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jake Young 15/Jun/13 2nd O/S
climbingsheep 15/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Jake Young, Mike Watson
theotherpetehill 15/Jul/12 2nd dog

Rested on rope at crucial wire placement to get gear out

with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Pumpy & very enjoyable. Very glad I managed to place the crucial wire before the run-out to the ledge as the only other bit was a crap RP.

beci tointen ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Mike_Hayes 29/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S

felt fingery and pumpy low down.

colesy 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with John Orr
Pippa 25/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
Mike Goldthorp 03/Apr/11 Lead β

Sick, lower wall is off the hook funkiness, middle is a nice preamble and top groove is superb; the Leap is where its at!

miastacey ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Tough move off the rest for shorties - thought I was going to blow it after all the hard work. Great route - climb fast!

with Bob Smith
owenH ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2011 -
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Dan McManus
feilx 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
Adam Booth 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Really nice to finally climb this brillant route, conditions were spot-on. I did spend to long on the bottom wall and got v. pumped.

phil64 ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Dave-Westlake ??/2009 -
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
morganator 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rich Cross and Es Tressider
Adam Long 31/May/08 Lead β

pumped again!

with Jvan Tresch, Ben Bransby
sam83 ??/2008 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Alex Mason 28/Aug/07 Lead β

Seconded steve a few months prior but with maximum dogging, could barely climb it then. Also gained gear beta off Gareth H just before setting off, a blind but bomber rock 4 high and left of the hand rail before moving onto the ledge. delicate and unpredictable move leaving the black right hand ledge, an array of decent wires protects great climbing up the upper groove. F6c and not that bold, but pumpy on the lower wall if not taken quickly.

Steve Crowe 26/Aug/07 Lead β

All led it, Karin went first, then Ian Denton, then me.

with KM
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
ali_robb ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Al
switch ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 Lead O/S
mgeek ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with ged& matty
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched ??/2006 Lead rpt
with Adam
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Gus 29/May/05 Lead β
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Kev Power
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 2nd β
with Craig Lonsdale
valecoastclimber 05/Sep/04 Lead O/S
spidey 24/Aug/03 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Viv
whispering nic ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with lee byrnes
Hidden ?/May/01 2nd rpt
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
with andy benson
Rich Kirby 13/Sep/99 Lead β
with Robin
Roget 25/May/99 Lead G/U

Tried a few years earlier when I ran out of the best size of nut to protect the run out bit and lowered off.

with jon
Hidden 04/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead dnf
PaulTanton 31/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Chris Brockbank
sadams 16/Aug/98 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
Hidden 25/May/98 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/May/98 Lead O/S
with Muir Morton
duncan 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
sadams 29/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Greg Cunningham ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with nigel birtwell
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead O/S
keefe 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 03/May/92 Lead O/S
with Graham Baxter
Steve Walker ??/1992 Lead
with paul
AlexRenshaw 28/Jul/91 2nd
with Dor? Green
Billg 02/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Alan James - UKC and UKH 27/May/90 Lead
Hidden 05/May/90 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 28/Apr/90 Lead
with Dor? Green
Hidden ??/1990 -
ukb & bmc shark 31/May/87 Lead
with Rich, John, Dave from London
mitch1960 ??/1987 Lead
with Alan Dance
jon 20/Sep/86 Lead
with H
Mike Owen 26/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ?/Apr/85 -
Gary Gibson ??/1984 Lead O/S

Second ascent

with Phil Gibson
16 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 41
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set