Rockfax Description
Originally this route started in the same place as Magazine People, but it is much better to start at the arete just left of Shape-Up (or the slab just left with a thread at 6a). This gives a good enjoyable pitch at a more even grade. From the top of the arete make tricky moves up onto a ramp, then continue to reach a traverse line under the roof which is passed by puzzling moves on its left-hand side. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 29/May/1983

Ticklists: Huntsmans Leap, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Hidden 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
tim whitaker 17/Sep/17 2nd
with Callum Johnson
Hidden 27/Aug/17 2nd
Tom.Priestley 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S

6a variation past threads low down. Was climbing well.

Hidden 23/Aug/17 2nd O/S
mrteale 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 17/Jun/17 Lead dog

Great route with great climbing! Got to the moves around the peg and ended up being misled by chalk! Thought it was in the bag. Tested the peg even if I'd much rather not have...

harry_lewis 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Holister 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Ali
Matt Cooke 28/May/17 Lead O/S
pete1993 28/May/17 2nd O/S
with Ben
shaunhumphreys 28/May/17 Lead O/S
with Alex M
benkelsey 28/May/17 Lead β

Almost an onsight but to avoid UKC abuse and clarify: Failed to really pull off the beach in 2016, so have had a few controlled jumps off the first move. This year, the sea had just stopped washing the base and I made a small platform to reach the first hold on tiptoes. The top is slightly spooky

amccann 28/May/17 2nd O/S

Belaying while watching/listening to multiple people taking flyers, which I'm sure calmed Shauns nerves ;)

with Shaun H
philhilo 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Start was somewhat scary but steady after that - a bit too steady for Misha watching the tide coming in!

with misha
Misha 27/May/17 2nd O/S

Hard start up the arête, possibly 6a. Steady above with a couple of tricky moves. Escaped the tide by a few minutes.

with Phil
Nick Wallis 19/May/17 2nd O/S

With start up Shape Up

with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
Robb Bert 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Steve George
Hidden 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
julesmckim 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Harder than 5c at the start. Pretty technical and sustained. Found the move to reach the ramp desperate!

with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 24/Sep/16 Lead
La Mont 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ellis
JendeHoxar 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Mike
MichaelGallimore 15/Aug/16 2nd rpt
willoates 11/Aug/16 -
with Luke
Luke Brooks 11/Aug/16 2nd
Steve Crowe 11/Aug/16 2nd O/S

28 years after climbing Quiet Waters with the original start. This is a better start really.

with KM
pete johnson 09/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/16 2nd O/S
AlexD 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Really nice. Committing feeling crux above two small but good wires.

with Ed
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
Rachel S 06/Aug/16 2nd
with Eve, Hilary
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
eel ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/16 2nd
katy_abra 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
rurp 02/Jun/16 -
mike mo ??/2016 -
James Smith 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with rich
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 17/Aug/15 2nd rpt
The Grist 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
JBO 07/Aug/15 2nd O/S
brices 12/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Great route with thinky climbing

with Remus
AlexRenshaw 21/Jun/15 Lead
emdawes 21/Jun/15 2nd
with Alex renshaw
Jonny Nick 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
pearson9596 17/May/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 17/May/15 Lead rpt
Mark Warnett ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Maybe I went wrong but I found this hard and bold in places. And not that good, except the very top which had nice moves which felt nicely bold and was at least dry!

with Princess Diana
MichaelGallimore 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Dropped a wire so lowered to the ground to retrieve it. Then dropped my nut key and couldn't face climbing the starting moves a third time so left the nut key for the next tide to swallow.

with Andy Cmc
pete johnson 09/Apr/15 2nd
geoff b 09/Apr/15 Lead

Back in the Leap after too long away. This was looser but less polished than I remembered.

FATBOYFAT ??/2015 -
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 20/Aug/14 Lead β

Kind of started up this last year then went into Shape Up. Nice route.

tim newton 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Wood for Trees 15/Aug/14 2nd O/S

top wasn't that bad, down low there is a pokey move I hadn't expected from looking up at the terrain

with Malc Scott
brices 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Conor
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
simon kimber 19/Apr/14 2nd
Julian Cooper 15/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Stuart Knott
w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/14 Lead

Felt like e3 to me, end of a long day though

w.pettet-smith ??/2014 Lead

Felt like e3 to me, end of a long day though

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
w.pettet-smith ??/2014 Lead

Felt like e3 to me, end of a long day though

with simon kimber
steve_yo 24/Aug/13 2nd
Ricky Rocks 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with michael porter
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Pippa 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
mountain_jay 08/Jun/13 Lead
Duncan Campbell 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Felt E3 to me, though maybe soft at that. Great route though!

with Ollie B
shed_hed 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Tricky start. Fairly steady after that.

with Dan Heath
Keendan 05/May/13 2nd β

With Darren. Tough start moves, then very steady.

al99 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Luke Thomas
PaulTanton 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
quiffhanger 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Nice climbing

with Ross McKerchar
Ramon Marin 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ed Booth 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Pretty shit to be fair

Hidden ??/2012 -
markalmack 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
khawk 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with DT
datoon 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with K
Speeddemonsi 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Ed morris 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Billg 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
frost 28/May/11 2nd
with Pete H, D Garry
mux 28/May/11 2nd


with Pete Harrison, frost
haydng 14/May/11 2nd rpt
zero six ?/May/11 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with John Orr
Pippa 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
dan gibson 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Dr Caterpillar 24/Aug/10 2nd O/S

crux moves at roof seemed pretty desperate for 5c. Full on crimping, cool route. Looked like a spooky lead

with Norwegians
keefe 24/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Tansy
Rob Pitt 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with steveE9
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Justin T 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Felt slightly bold for a couple of moves but overall fairly steady. Hard E2 or easy E3?

ASchwirtz 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing.

with Cocky
adam coxsell 12/Jun/10 2nd
with ant
harold walmsley 02/Jun/10 2nd β
feilx 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
going going gone 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

one of my favs this year. scary, exciting and so so much fun!!

irish paul 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
phil64 ??/2010 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Ben II
ian d f 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Pete H
Hidden 28/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 25/Aug/09 2nd
with JulesV
lukea 15/Aug/09 2nd
with Nathan M
belay bunny turned bad 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Took a long time!!!!

with loundsy
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Ian Broome 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Al
alaan 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Ed Babs 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Loved this. Seconded with Alex 08/Aug/16.

with Harry
Kyuzo 15/Mar/09 -

Freakin incredible!

with Joe Prinold
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
garburn 02/Nov/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 02/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Mayer
Ed Westwood 02/Nov/08 2nd dog
with Nils Amelinckx
david morse 10/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with corns
stuc 10/Aug/08 2nd
morganator 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 10/May/08 Lead O/S

i thought this was simply brilliant! my first route in the Leap. sustained with tricky gear all the way and a sting in the tail. felt more serious than it should have done. i think this is fair at E3.

Hidden 10/May/08 2nd dog
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd rpt
Chad123 07/May/07 Lead O/S

Great route though more like E3 than E2, a couple of the 5c moves are quite far above gear.

with Emily
nathanmanc 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dan M
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
david morse 05/Apr/07 2nd
with chris todd
Hidden 05/Apr/07 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/2007 -
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Wil Treasure ??/2007 2nd
AlexRenshaw 26/Aug/06 Lead
ASchwirtz 26/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Si Clapham ??/2006 -
daniel hobbs ?/Aug/05 -

One of those days that doesn't happen to much! One of the most exciting routes I've done!

cem 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with David T
Hidden 14/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Tim Steward 21/May/05 Lead
with Haggis Harris
Hidden 21/May/05 2nd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 20/May/05 Lead

Horribly technical at the start; beautifully technical at the top.

with Gareth Hallam
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
NeilGriffiths 30/Aug/04 Lead
with Paul Morgan
goi.ashmore 30/May/04 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
lukea 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
robbo157 ??/2003 -
Hidden 15/Sep/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/99 Lead
John Southworth ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/May/98 2nd rpt
lorens holm ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 19/Apr/97 Lead
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
andybirtwistle 12/Aug/96 Lead
with Steve Brewis
Colin Edwards 27/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Simon Gough Brown
shoulders ??/1995 2nd
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
steve taylor ?/May/93 Lead
with john boyle
Hidden 07/Aug/92 Lead
Rich Kirby 30/Mar/91 2nd
with Andy Mackay/Dave Taylor/Ian/PaulTanton
Rich Kirby 13/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Bullybones ??/1988 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1988 Lead O/S

Not as good as its cracked up to be but still a good pitch

with John Baker
Neil McA 16/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Jim Dockery
Hidden 28/Apr/85 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 14/Apr/85 Lead
with Spud & Nick
Mark Kemball ??/1983 Lead
Gary Gibson ??/1983 -

Soloed in March 1983

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