Rockfax Description
Some find this the best climb on the wall, especially if you are tall. Climb the rib right of Barbarella (thread out left) then follow a line of holds up right to a small groove. Climb the groove (microswires and a peg) and make a hard move left to a crack and the first bomber wire. Move left again then back right and up to the break. Arrange gear above, then make an outrageous l-o-n-g move to a good hold with a thread. Finish any way you can above. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 11/Mar/1985

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The Best of Pembroke.

Duncan Campbell 16/Apr Lead dog

Close!! Totally unchalked so was on the route for longer than an hour up and downing. Had no idea where I was aiming on the top crux and ended up falling fingers an inch from the good hold, having pulled on some absolute dirt holds. Took me two more goes to do the move. The best thing I've done all year for sure. Soft E6 but 6b climbing up there for shorties. Happy with my first effort at onsighting E6 gave it everything I had.

Katekeltie 16/Apr 2nd dog

Fell off crux move at the top, trying it Duncan's way of boning down on a desperate crimp out left. Lovely sequency climbing the whole way.

maddy.c 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Couldn't reach to clip the thread, not really a problem as long as you take some time to fiddle in RPs

Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
coula1 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Not nearly as hard to clip the thread as it looks. Steady.

dannyboy83 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
irish paul ?/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Felt ok but struggled to reach the in situ tat. Nice climbing

with ali k
Luke Brooks 27/Jun/16 Lead

Abbed to check thread and look at the holds. Pre-clipped the thread, couldn't see how I'd reach it from the route (?). Broke a hold and fell off the traverse left. Ground up, 2nd go.

with Kate
Hidden 27/Jun/16 2nd
Ed morris 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 20/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2016 -
JulesV 27/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Dam. Fell off the rest before the top crux when an undercut snapped off. Pulled straight back on and did it.

with Atkins
JBO 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Had a quick look on ab to check the thread was in, but the climbing was all onsight placing gear on lead. Not sure if I missed something because I found moving out left to the cracks much harder than the 'crux' higher up - maybe I was just a bit scared.

Ed Booth 02/Jun/15 Lead O/S
anguskille 02/Jun/15 2nd β
Adam Booth 02/Jun/15 2nd dog

Struggled with the move after the break first go. Ok second time.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 05/Apr/15 Lead

First Pembroke E6.

Ged Desforges ??/2015 Lead β

Ollie gave me all the gear beta. I wussed out of the start and put a side runner in barbarella, felt more like E5 6b like that

nathanlee 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Bit sketch at the start but after that there's loads of kit. Crimpy crux!

with Neil Mawson
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Woohoo! First E6 onsight!

with Conor
jacobjacob 21/Jun/14 Lead RP

Ground up, second go. Fell off the top crux trying to use Ross's onsight beta which skipped all the holds...

Tom Livingstone 23/Apr/14 Lead β

We stuck the gear in on abseil, then I flashed it. Brilliant route, absorbing climbing. Shame about my lack of style but not bad for first E6

phil64 ?/Apr/14 Lead dog

big move at top...bit of a stopper ab to place gear

with tom livingstone
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead β

Almost entirely on Jacob's gear.

redjerry 13/Aug/12 TR O/S
bigie bob 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
Toby Dunn ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Steve Adams
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25/May/03 Lead O/S
sadams 27/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
Hidden 28/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30/Aug/93 Lead
with Lewis Grundy
Hidden 18/Aug/87 Lead
jon 11/Mar/87 Lead

I remember climbing down here just after the first ascent of this route and there was a long sling added to the thread, both from identical bits of rope/tape, obviously making the thread very easy to clip. Sadly by the time I'd got around to climbing it, the extension had gone... Was graded E5 6a at the time.

with H
Mike Owen 23/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Pete Kirton
Gary Gibson 11/May/85 Lead β

First ascent

with Hazel
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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
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High E5
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Low E5
Votes cast 18
High 6c
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High 6b
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High 6a
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Low 6a
Votes cast 17
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Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set