24m.

Rockfax Description
Some find this the best climb on the wall, especially if you are tall. Climb the rib right of Barbarella (thread out left) then follow a line of holds up right to a small groove. Climb the groove (microswires and a peg) and make a hard move left to a crack and the first bomber wire. Move left again then back right and up to the break. Arrange gear above, then make an outrageous l-o-n-g move to a good hold with a thread. Finish any way you can above. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 11/Mar/1985

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, Theo's Pembroke ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Wil Treasure 15 Sep Lead RP
with Ryan
with Ryan
ian d f 8 Sep Lead RP Top roped a couple if times first, both times clean. Felt easier than Barbarella
with Wil T
Top roped a couple if times first, both times clean. Felt easier than Barbarella
with Wil T
markalmack 1 Sep Lead G/U Went direct up to the rest, then just as i relaxed, snapped a hold off resulting in some serious air time.
with Trouble Bird, will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Went direct up to the rest, then just as i relaxed, snapped a hold off resulting in some serious air time.
with Trouble Bird, will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Ramon Marin 1 Sep, 2017 Lead β Abseil inspection and extended the thread, not the best style but was happy with onsighting and dealing with the top crux ok. I used undercling and feet high to do a loooong move to reach the good hold. Amazing experience regardless of the poor style
with viki harvey
Abseil inspection and extended the thread, not the best style but was happy with onsighting and dealing with the top crux ok. I used undercling and feet high to do a loooong move to reach the good hold. Amazing experience regardless of the poor style
with viki harvey
Duncan Campbell 16 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Close!! Totally unchalked so was on the route for a while up and downing. Had no idea where I was aiming on the top crux and ended up falling fingers an inch from the good hold, having pulled on some absolute dirt holds. Took me two more goes to do the move. The best thing I've done all year for sure. Soft E6 but 6b climbing up there for shorties. Happy with my first effort at onsighting E6 gave it everything I had.
Close!! Totally unchalked so was on the route for a while up and downing. Had no idea where I was aiming on the top crux and ended up falling fingers an inch from the good hold, having pulled on some absolute dirt holds. Took me two more goes to do the move. The best thing I've done all year for sure. Soft E6 but 6b climbing up there for shorties. Happy with my first effort at onsighting E6 gave it everything I had.
Katekeltie 16 Apr, 2017 2nd dog Fell off crux move at the top, trying it Duncan's way of boning down on a desperate crimp out left. Lovely sequency climbing the whole way.
Fell off crux move at the top, trying it Duncan's way of boning down on a desperate crimp out left. Lovely sequency climbing the whole way.
maddy.c 20 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Couldn't reach to clip the thread, not really a problem as long as you take some time to fiddle in RPs
Couldn't reach to clip the thread, not really a problem as long as you take some time to fiddle in RPs
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
coula1 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Not nearly as hard to clip the thread as it looks. Steady.
Not nearly as hard to clip the thread as it looks. Steady.
dannyboy83 7 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
irish paul ?Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Felt ok but struggled to reach the in situ tat. Nice climbing
with ali k
Felt ok but struggled to reach the in situ tat. Nice climbing
with ali k
Luke Brooks 27 Jun, 2016 Lead Abbed to check thread and look at the holds. Pre-clipped the thread, couldn't see how I'd reach it from the route (?). Broke a hold and fell off the traverse left. Ground up, 2nd go.
with KB83
Abbed to check thread and look at the holds. Pre-clipped the thread, couldn't see how I'd reach it from the route (?). Broke a hold and fell off the traverse left. Ground up, 2nd go.
with KB83
Hidden 27 Jun, 2016 2nd
Ed morris 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 20 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
JulesV 27 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Dam. Fell off the rest before the top crux when an undercut snapped off. Pulled straight back on and did it.
with Atkins
Dam. Fell off the rest before the top crux when an undercut snapped off. Pulled straight back on and did it.
with Atkins
JBO 6 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Had a quick look on ab to check the thread was in, but the climbing was all onsight placing gear on lead. Not sure if I missed something because I found moving out left to the cracks much harder than the 'crux' higher up - maybe I was just a bit scared.
Had a quick look on ab to check the thread was in, but the climbing was all onsight placing gear on lead. Not sure if I missed something because I found moving out left to the cracks much harder than the 'crux' higher up - maybe I was just a bit scared.
Ed Booth 2 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2015 2nd β
Adam Booth 2 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Struggled with the move after the break first go. Ok second time.
Struggled with the move after the break first go. Ok second time.
hamer89 29 May, 2015 Lead O/S No chalk, tough onsight! Bottom felt bold and top desperate. Nearly fell
No chalk, tough onsight! Bottom felt bold and top desperate. Nearly fell
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 5 Apr, 2015 Lead First Pembroke E6.
First Pembroke E6.
Ged Desforges ??, 2015 Lead β Ollie gave me all the gear beta. I wussed out of the start and put a side runner in barbarella, felt more like E5 6b like that
Ollie gave me all the gear beta. I wussed out of the start and put a side runner in barbarella, felt more like E5 6b like that
nathanlee 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Bit sketch at the start but after that there's loads of kit. Crimpy crux!
with Neil Mawson
Bit sketch at the start but after that there's loads of kit. Crimpy crux!
with Neil Mawson
Hidden 22 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
pipof747 ?Aug, 2014 Lead RP
quiffhanger 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Woohoo! First E6 onsight!
Woohoo! First E6 onsight!
jacobjacob 21 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Ground up, second go. Fell off the top crux trying to use Ross's onsight beta which skipped all the holds...
Ground up, second go. Fell off the top crux trying to use Ross's onsight beta which skipped all the holds...
Tom Livingstone 23 Apr, 2014 Lead β We stuck the gear in on abseil, then I flashed it. Brilliant route, absorbing climbing. Shame about my lack of style but not bad for first E6
with phil64
We stuck the gear in on abseil, then I flashed it. Brilliant route, absorbing climbing. Shame about my lack of style but not bad for first E6
with phil64
phil64 ?Apr, 2014 Lead dog big move at top...bit of a stopper ab to place gear
with tom livingstone
big move at top...bit of a stopper ab to place gear
with tom livingstone
i_a_coops ??, 2014 Lead β Almost entirely on Jacob's gear.
Almost entirely on Jacob's gear.
redjerry 13 Aug, 2012 TR O/S
bigie bob 6 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs 13 Jun, 2009 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Toby Dunn ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Steve Adams
with Steve Adams
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25 May, 2003 Lead O/S
with Joe le Sage
with Joe le Sage
sadams 27 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
Hidden 28 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30 Aug, 1993 Lead
with Lewis Grundy
with Lewis Grundy
Hidden 11 Mar, 1988 Lead
Hidden 18 Aug, 1987 Lead
Mike Owen 23 Jul, 1986 Lead O/S
with Pete Kirton
with Pete Kirton
Gary Gibson 11 May, 1985 Lead β First ascent
with Hazel
First ascent
with Hazel
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set