Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023
Rockfax Description
A popular route. Start below a right-trending line of holds in the middle of the wall. Move up to a ledge then climb the wall above to the break (old peg). Step right to a crack and follow this until it is possible to move left across the wall, on good holds, to a wide break. Finish straight up the wall above. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 17/Jul/1982.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Neil Binns | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Also worth mentioning that I managed to get a an OKish wire in above and below the peg. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Also worth mentioning that I managed to get a an OKish wire in above and below the peg. |
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Neil Binns | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: In the 1995 guidebook the line on the topo is mixed up with "Goats that go gnash in the night" | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: In the 1995 guidebook the line on the topo is mixed up with "Goats that go gnash in the night" |
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Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Is is indeed soft touch for E2 but probably worth it given the state of the rotten old peg that 'protects' the crux. Fine climbing though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Is is indeed soft touch for E2 but probably worth it given the state of the rotten old peg that 'protects' the crux. Fine climbing though. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Penally East)