40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning route up the big wall right of the cave. The top pitch is like climbing a line of bolt-on jugs up the bow of a ship!
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the awkward lower wall to a small roof. Move up and left onto a nicely-placed sloping ledge. Step left to a hole then climb up and back right via a hard move and continue easily to the ledge.
2) 5c, 20m. The loose groove on the right leads to a ledge below a flake crack. Arrange some gear in this, then swing left along a finger traverse line to a thread. Make a hard move up then move right onto the arete which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 26/Feb/1988

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 20 For 2017.

Ed Babs 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P1. Took a while to commit to the tough initial groove. Once above that things ease off considerably with an excellent steep juggy romp to the ledge. And then P2! Maybe the best route of the week.

with AlexD
AlexD 07/Aug/16 AltLd G/U

wow tough first pitch! just enough good holds in the end, though came off the start first try. not much left for second pitch, but set off hoping i'd recover as i went on. found gear a bit fiddly on arete, being mostly in weird knobbly breaks, rather than straightforward cracks. ran it out to the top only to pump out completely on flatties! thought i was gonna take the ride, but managed to scrabble back down to a rest somehow. got a good nut next time before pulling over, which relaxed things enough to reduce the pump. epic! super windy too, adding to the exposure!

with Ed
Misha 30/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Eszter
Pippa 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Damp and greasy at the start, so pleased to get it. Absolutely amazing

soph 07/May/16 AltLd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
markalmack 23/May/15 AltLd

Lead p2. thought id tried this a few years ago, but think we were in the wrong place. Found the start nails. Not that enjoyable for me... tired and greasy didn't help

WB 23/May/15 AltLd

A route to many... Followed Mark up the first pitch, which was greasy at the start. Spent ages working it out, and then trying to get the gear out. By the time I was at the upper groove I was blowing. Mark gave me some beta which ended with me pulling a hold off and falling - sh*t beta. I lead the 2nd pitch, and I was gassing from the start. Clipped the peg, stood up and couldn't let go with either hand... 2nd time up got through the crux, but I had nothing I just had to keep questing until i eventually bellyflopped on to the top about 2m right of the arete. So pumped!

Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
eel 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Gwen
Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
nathanlee 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Nearly came a cropper low down, ridiculously greasy!

with Jack Lawledge
Apharri 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches

with Dave Wharton
tim newton 13/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2

Rachel Slater 13/Aug/14 AltLd

Lead pitch one, got really leg pumped a few moves up and psyched out by the grease so tried to downclimb but couldn't... lowered off then lead it cleanly from the ground with the gear still clipped. First pitch so greasy! Second pitch was amazing!

Mike Goldthorp 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Brutal start, took a few up-n-downs to commit, but once you get going its a good first pitch, only to be greeted by a squawking seagull nesting on the ledge, awkward! Scuttled off to the end of the ledge to bring up Jack, who romped up the awesome positions of the top pitch, pretty wild!

with Jack G
Adam Booth 20/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Hung on a wire on the first pitch to retrieve some welded in gear. I led top pitch - incredible!

Ed Booth 20/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

led first pitch. Dry from the rain but greasy as sin!

Duncan Campbell 19/Apr/14 AltLd

Led P1. Ground-Up as I slipped putting 1st good wire in low down so ended up holding the bunch of wires! Sorted the wire out, came down and did it next go. Pretty tough I thought, slightly greasy but probably good nick for this section of crag. Had to try really hard on this! Had a bit of an epic as Guy fell off seconding so had to prussik up! Top pitch is brill E3 5c - one tricky section past a brand new peg to jugs.

with GuyVG
Hidden 19/Apr/14 AltLd
Ed morris 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Greasy but still doable, sustained difficulty right from the off.

with stefan
Stefan_Morris 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
valecoastclimber 24/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

P2 only, as dictated by big seas and high tide. Outrageously steep!

Hidden 03/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Alice Thompson 03/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Michael Porter, Dan Gibson
dan gibson 03/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with alice thompson, michael porter
remus 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

kd led P1 and I did P2. kd was very unlucky to drop P1, hold snapped off after all the hard climbing. P2 was ace, very cool positions and pretty straightforward climbing.

Keendan 09/Jun/13 AltLd RP

P1. Climbed through the crux then broke a hold off the headwall! Lowered off and did it again. Cool moves negotiating the blocky shapes on the overhang. Top pitch is simply stunning.

with Remus
quiffhanger 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Great fun tho burly, slippery and awkward at the start. Not sure Kate enjoy the burl so much. Top pitch mega fun exposure, shame it's escapable.

with Kate
dswansonlow 30/Mar/13 AltLd dog
with Emma Twyford
Justin T 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Cherry
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
soph 27/Jul/12 Lead
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead rpt
markalmack 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S

top pitch only

with james marjot
khawk 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with DT
datoon 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with K
Ian Jones 16/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Two fierce pitches.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Steve Crowe 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with KM
thomasadixon 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, was damn impressed with the first one and both are brilliant. Awesome route.

with Mike
dannyboy83 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Awesome!

hamish2016 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Wil Treasure
drysori 01/Jul/11 AltLd

Led first with rests.

with hamdunn
pipof747 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Glyn 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Luke, Barni
Luke Brooks 29/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Glyn Hudson, Barni
barni 29/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with luke, Glyn
Ally Smith 27/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Bailed in very greasy conditions

with jkarran
Toby Dunn 23/Apr/11 AltLd
with Andy Reeve
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Brown 20/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with James T
innes ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Nibs
Hidden 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with steveE9
Rich Kirby 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Watch that tide! Led 1st crux.

with Nige
nige 08/Aug/10 AltLd
with richard kirby
Alex Mason 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, started to the right of original start as it was wet. The top pitch had a big wet patch on it, but managed to skirt right around it. Wicked.

with Ben alsford
Hidden 27/Feb/10 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
feilx 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Mosienko
Hidden 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Billg ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
cragdan 23/Jun/07 2nd dog
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 14/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Reeve
Boy ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/05 Lead O/S
Gus 11/Jul/04 Lead
with grimer
buzby78 08/May/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 2nd
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/98 Lead O/S
Steve Long ??/1998 Lead
Greg Cunningham ?/Jul/97 AltLd O/S

I lead second pitch

with andy mcarthy
PaulTanton 25/May/97 AltLd O/S

Done with a fascist who I can't remember. The first pitch is hard. Harder to second as the rope jammed. The top pitch is good but very escapeable

duncan 29/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
sadams 28/Mar/97 AltLd
with John Boyle
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/93 Lead O/S
keefe 01/Aug/93 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/91 Lead
with Paul Dearden
Hidden 07/May/91 Lead
Gary Gibson 26/Feb/88 Lead

First ascent

with Roy Thomas
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set