45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The right arete of the pillar gives an elegant experience in head climbing which just merits the grade.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the right-hand side of the arete until it is possible to pull around onto its left. Tip-toe up this side past a small roof (old peg). Move up past a small wire to a square hold, then climb the dinky groove above with some excitement.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the shallow groove behind the belay to the next ledge, then move left into Trevallen Pillar. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 30/Apr/1983

Ticklists: Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.

Hidden 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 07/Aug/17 Lead O/S


Hidden 07/Aug/17 2nd
w.pettet-smith 18/Apr/17 Lead dnf

took the lob a few times, screamed like a girl a few times then couldnt face doing the horrible start again so sacked it. pretty good though!

with ben
malx 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Really cool route - no hard moves but feels pretty airy standing up on the broken jug and running it out.

with Roisin
Toby Dunn ??/2017 Lead
andyinglis 12/Oct/16 2nd
with Murdoch Jamieson
maddy.c 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P1. Start was the hardest part, although rock slightly wet from receding tide so maybe not always so. Loads more gear than I was expecting.

with AlexD
Misha 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Tough start, was pleased to find a good nut and handhold on the slab just round the arête from the small spike, which made life a lot easier but still a 6a move. Pleasant knobbly slab climbing above with plenty of gear to the peg (which was rusty and flexing but there was good gear just below. Standing up on the jug felt pretty exposed and got a bit worried about being blown off by the breeze but it wasn't that strong really. A balancey move to stand up above the jug enabled me to lank for the ledge, so didn't need to use the poor crimp on the face. Not really enough there for an E5 (especially being able to cut out a move) but a nice enough route. Finished in one pitch - the top pitch is mostly easy but has some enjoyable airy 5b jug pulling, finished up a groove in a straight line, a bit to the right of Trevallen Pillar.

with Eszter
AlexD 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Ramon Marin 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S

proper onsight, no chalk, no beta and a wet start. The top felt the living end after 5 days on climbing, but glad I got it clean.

with Douglas Russell
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
JulesV 28/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Will Boxen
Russell Birkett 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Spicy technical and run out section at the top. The broken jug on the arête has left a sharp edge that Tim managed to break further by standing on it on 2nd. Still useable tho.

with Tim Whitaker
Hidden 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S
NDD 25/May/15 2nd
with tony stone
Duncan Campbell 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Climbed after Ferdia broke the protruding jug off. Fortunately still a good hold underneath. Happy to find this pretty steady though was close to falling off the last move to the ledge as its a bit of a stretch! Amazing sequence to the ledge.

nathanlee 24/May/15 2nd rpt
ferdia 24/May/15 Lead

Fell from last moves. Took a whipper and blew the hold on the arete. Makes the top slightly easier I think :-/

with Clare Muir
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
markalmack 06/Apr/15 Lead β

inspected gear a bit on abseil. would have been a bit gripped if i hadn't as there are a couple of hidden bits of gear. Baking hot. Still a nice exciting run out to the ledge.

with ian
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
nathanlee 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic top crux!

with Jack Lawledge
soph 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Super fun move to jug on arête :0)

with Blair Fyffe
Ed Booth 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

So hot!! Sweat dripping in my eyes.

with Anna Pugh
quiffhanger 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Bit harder & more exciting than I was expecting. Tricky gear.

JBO 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Bottom end E5 if you have a good head above gear, but really good climbing. The 6a bit comes right at the start, feels hard especially when wet and slippery from the tide! The moves round the arete are awesome, and the sequence from there to the top is just run-out enough to give a little buzz.

tim newton 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Did it in 1 rather than 2 pitches and finished up the top groove to the right of trevallen pillar instead of traversing left to finish up that. Seemed an obvious way to finish the route and the ropes are completely straight from ground to top with that finish, so no rope drag

Ed morris 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First E5 onsight! There is a wobbly jug at the start which almost threw me off. The runout section is superb.

with Adam Bevan
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mark20 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
barni 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with luke
Luke Brooks 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Barni
barni 31/Mar/13 2nd
with luke
redjerry ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Loved this. Great to finally get on it!

with Dougie
dan gibson 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
feilx 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 26/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Sweet top section, felt well bold! Bottom section was still wet and really slippy from tide - bit dodgy, but fantastic technical (easy) climbing on the left side of the arete, and an exposed crux, quite a big reach but not too desperate

Rich Kirby 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Nige
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
morganator ?/Apr/07 Lead dnf
switch ??/2007 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Gus 01/May/05 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
spidey 25/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/01 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
sadams 28/Aug/00 2nd
with Tom Briggs
PaulTanton 13/Sep/99 Lead O/S

Great route with good support from Dave. Thanks mate. The start is hard as is the finish

with Dave Taylor
Steve Crowe 01/May/99 Lead O/S

Good climbing

with KM
sadams 30/Aug/98 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Andy Long
sadams 28/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
Greg Cunningham ?/Jun/96 2nd
jfletcher 01/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
keefe 01/Aug/93 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30/May/90 Lead
with Si Gee
ukb & bmc shark 24/May/87 Lead O/S
with Nick Postlethwaite
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
Mike Owen 30/May/86 Lead O/S
with Roger Bennion
Hidden 09/Dec/84 Lead
Steve Lewis 16/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Gary Gibson 30/Apr/83 Lead

First ascent. One of my favourite Pembroke new routes and route names. Suddenly you see a mast, approaching you pretty fast, hope its not like the last but it just sails right past. I'm hoping for better weather for a Ship to Pass in the Night.....

with Adam Hudson
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