45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The right arete of the pillar gives an elegant experience in head climbing which just merits the grade.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the right-hand side of the arete until it is possible to pull around onto its left. Tip-toe up this side past a small roof (old peg). Move up past a small wire to a square hold, then climb the dinky groove above with some excitement.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the shallow groove behind the belay to the next ledge, then move left into Trevallen Pillar. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 30/Apr/1983

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
John Alcock 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very reach depenent move to the ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very reach depenent move to the ledge.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Adam Lincoln 17 Aug Lead O/S
with Tyler
with Tyler
Hidden 17 Aug AltLd O/S
Ramon Marin 27 May 2nd rpt
Richard Kendrick 27 May Lead dog Found the move to the ledge hard! Couldn’t lank it so had to use some small crimps in the groove. Bugger!!
Found the move to the ledge hard! Couldn’t lank it so had to use some small crimps in the groove. Bugger!!
Ram MkiV 28 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mike Lea
with Mike Lea
debsb 24 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt I seconded John Morgan on this many years ago. I’ve been back to do the route a few times since then but haven’t been able to get on it as the start has been wet. It was all dry this evening. Very enjoyable climbing.
with Glenda Huxter
I seconded John Morgan on this many years ago. I’ve been back to do the route a few times since then but haven’t been able to get on it as the start has been wet. It was all dry this evening. Very enjoyable climbing.
with Glenda Huxter
Stefan_Morris 23 May, 2018 Lead O/S
aiyer 29 Apr, 2018 2nd Could lead someday?
with wojt
Could lead someday?
with wojt
ian d f 28 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S First E5 OS. Fun!!
First E5 OS. Fun!!
Hidden 28 Apr, 2018 2nd dog
brices 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Short lived difficulties, pretty exciting making the final moves to the break, involved nailing a pretty minging crimp, imagine it would be a fair bit easier if a bit taller.
Short lived difficulties, pretty exciting making the final moves to the break, involved nailing a pretty minging crimp, imagine it would be a fair bit easier if a bit taller.
Hidden 29 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Flavio 7 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S #2.
with Jumar Jenny
#2.
with Jumar Jenny
JendeHoxar 7 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
w.pettet-smith 18 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf took the lob a few times, screamed like a girl a few times then couldnt face doing the horrible start again so sacked it. pretty good though!
with ben
took the lob a few times, screamed like a girl a few times then couldnt face doing the horrible start again so sacked it. pretty good though!
with ben
malx 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Really cool route - no hard moves but feels pretty airy standing up on the broken jug and running it out.
with Roisin
Really cool route - no hard moves but feels pretty airy standing up on the broken jug and running it out.
with Roisin
Toby Dunn ??, 2017 Lead
andyinglis 12 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Murdoch Jamieson
with Murdoch Jamieson
maddy.c 20 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S P1. Start was the hardest part, although rock slightly wet from receding tide so maybe not always so. Loads more gear than I was expecting.
with AlexD
P1. Start was the hardest part, although rock slightly wet from receding tide so maybe not always so. Loads more gear than I was expecting.
with AlexD
Misha 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Tough start, was pleased to find a good nut and handhold on the slab just round the arête from the small spike, which made life a lot easier but still a 6a move. Pleasant knobbly slab climbing above with plenty of gear to the peg (which was rusty and flexing but there was good gear just below. Standing up on the jug felt pretty exposed and got a bit worried about being blown off by the breeze but it wasn't that strong really. A balancey move to stand up above the jug enabled me to lank for the ledge, so didn't need to use the poor crimp on the face. Not really enough there for an E5 (especially being able to cut out a move) but a nice enough route. Finished in one pitch - the top pitch is mostly easy but has some enjoyable airy 5b jug pulling, finished up a groove in a straight line, a bit to the right of Trevallen Pillar.
with eszter
Tough start, was pleased to find a good nut and handhold on the slab just round the arête from the small spike, which made life a lot easier but still a 6a move. Pleasant knobbly slab climbing above with plenty of gear to the peg (which was rusty and flexing but there was good gear just below. Standing up on the jug felt pretty exposed and got a bit worried about being blown off by the breeze but it wasn't that strong really. A balancey move to stand up above the jug enabled me to lank for the ledge, so didn't need to use the poor crimp on the face. Not really enough there for an E5 (especially being able to cut out a move) but a nice enough route. Finished in one pitch - the top pitch is mostly easy but has some enjoyable airy 5b jug pulling, finished up a groove in a straight line, a bit to the right of Trevallen Pillar.
with eszter
AlexD 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
pipof747 9 Jun, 2016 Lead β
Ramon Marin 8 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S proper onsight, no chalk, no beta and a wet start. The top felt the living end after 5 days on climbing, but glad I got it clean.
with Douglas Russell
proper onsight, no chalk, no beta and a wet start. The top felt the living end after 5 days on climbing, but glad I got it clean.
with Douglas Russell
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
JulesV 28 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
with Will Boxen
with Will Boxen
Russell Birkett 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice route. Spicy technical and run out section at the top. The broken jug on the arête has left a sharp edge that Tim managed to break further by standing on it on 2nd. Still useable tho.
with Tim Whitaker
Nice route. Spicy technical and run out section at the top. The broken jug on the arête has left a sharp edge that Tim managed to break further by standing on it on 2nd. Still useable tho.
with Tim Whitaker
Hidden 22 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
NDD 25 May, 2015 2nd
with tony stone
with tony stone
Duncan Campbell 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S Climbed after Ferdia broke the protruding jug off. Fortunately still a good hold underneath. Happy to find this pretty steady though was close to falling off the last move to the ledge as its a bit of a stretch! Amazing sequence to the ledge.
Climbed after Ferdia broke the protruding jug off. Fortunately still a good hold underneath. Happy to find this pretty steady though was close to falling off the last move to the ledge as its a bit of a stretch! Amazing sequence to the ledge.
nathanlee 24 May, 2015 2nd rpt
ferdia 24 May, 2015 Lead Fell from last moves. Took a whipper and blew the hold on the arete. Makes the top slightly easier I think :-/
with Clare Muir
Fell from last moves. Took a whipper and blew the hold on the arete. Makes the top slightly easier I think :-/
with Clare Muir
Hidden 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
markalmack 6 Apr, 2015 Lead β inspected gear a bit on abseil. would have been a bit gripped if i hadn't as there are a couple of hidden bits of gear. Baking hot. Still a nice exciting run out to the ledge.
with Ian1987
inspected gear a bit on abseil. would have been a bit gripped if i hadn't as there are a couple of hidden bits of gear. Baking hot. Still a nice exciting run out to the ledge.
with Ian1987
HAJ Francis ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
nathanlee 18 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Fantastic top crux!
with Jack Lawledge
Fantastic top crux!
with Jack Lawledge
soph 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Super fun move to jug on arête :0)
with Blair Fyffe
Super fun move to jug on arête :0)
with Blair Fyffe
Ed Booth 25 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S So hot!! Sweat dripping in my eyes.
with Anna Pugh
So hot!! Sweat dripping in my eyes.
with Anna Pugh
quiffhanger 21 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Bit harder & more exciting than I was expecting. Tricky gear.
Bit harder & more exciting than I was expecting. Tricky gear.
JBO 27 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Bottom end E5 if you have a good head above gear, but really good climbing. The 6a bit comes right at the start, feels hard especially when wet and slippery from the tide! The moves round the arete are awesome, and the sequence from there to the top is just run-out enough to give a little buzz.
Bottom end E5 if you have a good head above gear, but really good climbing. The 6a bit comes right at the start, feels hard especially when wet and slippery from the tide! The moves round the arete are awesome, and the sequence from there to the top is just run-out enough to give a little buzz.
tim newton 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Did it in 1 rather than 2 pitches and finished up the top groove to the right of trevallen pillar instead of traversing left to finish up that. Seemed an obvious way to finish the route and the ropes are completely straight from ground to top with that finish, so no rope drag
Did it in 1 rather than 2 pitches and finished up the top groove to the right of trevallen pillar instead of traversing left to finish up that. Seemed an obvious way to finish the route and the ropes are completely straight from ground to top with that finish, so no rope drag
Ed morris 16 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S First E5 onsight! There is a wobbly jug at the start which almost threw me off. The runout section is superb.
with Adam Bevan
First E5 onsight! There is a wobbly jug at the start which almost threw me off. The runout section is superb.
with Adam Bevan
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
mark20 20 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
barni 1 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 31 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with barni
with barni
barni 31 Mar, 2013 2nd
redjerry ?Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 11 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Loved this. Great to finally get on it!
Loved this. Great to finally get on it!
dan gibson 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
feilx 5 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 26 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Sweet top section, felt well bold! Bottom section was still wet and really slippy from tide - bit dodgy, but fantastic technical (easy) climbing on the left side of the arete, and an exposed crux, quite a big reach but not too desperate
Sweet top section, felt well bold! Bottom section was still wet and really slippy from tide - bit dodgy, but fantastic technical (easy) climbing on the left side of the arete, and an exposed crux, quite a big reach but not too desperate
Rich Kirby 5 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with nige
with nige
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 2nd
with Terry Lovett
with Terry Lovett
morganator ?Apr, 2007 Lead dnf
Si Witcher ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
Gus 1 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
with simon "the horse" wilson
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
spidey 25 Aug, 2003 2nd
Hidden 4 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
sadams 28 Aug, 2000 2nd
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
PaulTanton 13 Sep, 1999 Lead O/S Great route with good support from Dave. Thanks mate. The start is hard as is the finish
with Dave Taylor
Great route with good support from Dave. Thanks mate. The start is hard as is the finish
with Dave Taylor
Steve Crowe 1 May, 1999 Lead O/S Good climbing
with karin
Good climbing
with karin
sadams 30 Aug, 1998 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
innes ?Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
with Jon Bracey
Si Clapham ??, 1998 2nd
with Andy Long
with Andy Long
sadams 28 Mar, 1997 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 9 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Greg Cunningham ?Jun, 1996 2nd
jfletcher 1 May, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 1993 AltLd O/S
keefe 1 Aug, 1993 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30 May, 1990 Lead
with Si Gee
with Si Gee
UKB Shark 24 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Nick Postlethwaite
with Nick Postlethwaite
Hidden ??, 1987 AltLd
Mike Owen 30 May, 1986 Lead O/S
with Roger Bennion
with Roger Bennion
Hidden 9 Dec, 1984 Lead
Steve Lewis 16 Jun, 1984 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Gary Gibson 30 Apr, 1983 Lead First ascent. One of my favourite Pembroke new routes and route names. Suddenly you see a mast, approaching you pretty fast, hope its not like the last but it just sails right past. I'm hoping for better weather for a Ship to Pass in the Night.....
with Adam Hudson
First ascent. One of my favourite Pembroke new routes and route names. Suddenly you see a mast, approaching you pretty fast, hope its not like the last but it just sails right past. I'm hoping for better weather for a Ship to Pass in the Night.....
with Adam Hudson
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