36m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning line, amazing rock and intensely thuggy climbing make this one of the most unforgettable routes around. Start beneath the crack in the corner and pull up into it (requires a shoulder-aid for shorties). Heave up to the roof, power around this then thrash up the crack above. Bridge up the finishing groove before you wilt. © Rockfax

FA. P Littlejohn, H Clarke 30/Apr/1982

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, 101Pembroke Extremes, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Gareth H 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Found this very easy for E4, much more like E3. Moves around the lip are fine on good jams, back and foot rest at lip and steady crack no harder than First Blood above. An excellent route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this very easy for E4, much more like E3. Moves around the lip are fine on good jams, back and foot rest at lip and steady crack no harder than First Blood above. An excellent route
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 14 Jul Lead O/S
gazhbo 6 May Lead O/S
colesy 6 May 2nd
with gazhbo
with gazhbo
Si Witcher 5 May Lead G/U Slipped off first move off deck onto cam. Steady after that. Great, crisp conditions.
with Aggie T
Slipped off first move off deck onto cam. Steady after that. Great, crisp conditions.
with Aggie T
WB 21 Apr Lead O/S wasn't keen on the start
wasn't keen on the start
Duncan Campbell 21 Apr 2nd rpt
with WB
with WB
beni 8 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
pearson9596 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mel
with Mel
dbrooks 24 Jun, 2018 Lead dog found this tough... I don't think I'm very good at climbing cracks. Incredibly striking line
found this tough... I don't think I'm very good at climbing cracks. Incredibly striking line
Dexter JW 24 Jun, 2018 2nd dog Rest only to get whipped gear out, could it have gone onsight? Who knows?
with dbrooks
Rest only to get whipped gear out, could it have gone onsight? Who knows?
with dbrooks
williap 6 May, 2018 2nd dnf
Hidden 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Finished just in time for food at the pub
with James T
Finished just in time for food at the pub
with James T
Hidden 27 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
beni 25 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
mim tiller 19 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Really nice. Hand jams just over the roof felt hard and sweaty under the glare of the sun
with davkeo
Really nice. Hand jams just over the roof felt hard and sweaty under the glare of the sun
with davkeo
ian bryant ??, 2017 -
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Greg Cunningham 9 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
with Debbie
with Debbie
AlexD 6 Aug, 2016 2nd Ace! Start fine for shorties.
with Ed Babs
Ace! Start fine for shorties.
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Really good and much easier than the Rockfax guidebook makes it sound. Take a big cam or hex to protect the pull off the boulders. You can sit on the ledges under the roof for a rest and the crack and corner above are friendly for the grade.
with AlexD
Really good and much easier than the Rockfax guidebook makes it sound. Take a big cam or hex to protect the pull off the boulders. You can sit on the ledges under the roof for a rest and the crack and corner above are friendly for the grade.
with AlexD
Billg 2 Jul, 2016 Lead
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
markalmack 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 7 May, 2016 2nd Flipping brilliant! The start was a bit wet and greasy but a big silver dragon made it safe. Above that it is excellent, the roof is steady and the crack above is amazing. I switcvhed my brain off and pulled a block off the top which smashed into my ear - woops!
Flipping brilliant! The start was a bit wet and greasy but a big silver dragon made it safe. Above that it is excellent, the roof is steady and the crack above is amazing. I switcvhed my brain off and pulled a block off the top which smashed into my ear - woops!
debsb ??, 2016 Lead O/S
with Greg Cunningham
with Greg Cunningham
neilh ??, 2016 -
JBO 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Stunning
Stunning
James Marshall 22 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Max went first and had an epic trying to get into the crack, threw his nuts away when they wouldn't fit and left a bunch hanging in the crack before lowering off, So led the beginning on his gear - really hard crack - an amazing route for anyone who isn't used to climbing cracks and trad features !
with max
Max went first and had an epic trying to get into the crack, threw his nuts away when they wouldn't fit and left a bunch hanging in the crack before lowering off, So led the beginning on his gear - really hard crack - an amazing route for anyone who isn't used to climbing cracks and trad features !
with max
Hidden 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
eel 5 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
with Gwen
with Gwen
Hidden 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 3 Apr, 2015 2nd β
HAJ Francis 2 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
NuclearNev ??, 2015 -
Rachel Slater 19 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
tim newton 19 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
pipof747 ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
bigie bob 20 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Ed morris 7 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Total classic!
with Adam Bevan
Total classic!
with Adam Bevan
steve_yo 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam ring
with sam ring
irish paul ??, 2013 Lead O/S
soph 30 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
dswansonlow 10 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 10 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome route.
Awesome route.
Ramon Marin 20 May, 2012 Lead rpt
with ciaran tracey
with ciaran tracey
Fran S8 14 Aug, 2011 2nd
john nightingale 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Brilliant!
with mwatson
Brilliant!
with mwatson
Exodus 5 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Amazing Climb, had to push hard, but good rest at lip.
with Tim Newton
Amazing Climb, had to push hard, but good rest at lip.
with Tim Newton
tim newton 29 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with Exodus
with Exodus
dan gibson 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Chubbard 8 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Ray
with Ray
Hidden 9 May, 2010 2nd
Toby Dunn 24 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with JulesV
with JulesV
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 Lead dog
feilx 8 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Steve P
with Steve P
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 4 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
hugo glover ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Si Clapham ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead β
Tom Briggs 22 May, 2005 2nd rpt
with Tuffty Nick
with Tuffty Nick
pete johnson 3 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden 20 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Neil McA 27 Aug, 2001 2nd O/S
morganator ?Aug, 2001 Lead
with Neil McAdie
with Neil McAdie
jfletcher 21 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Fletcher
with Charlotte Fletcher
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 -
steveb2006 3 May, 1999 Lead Feels really goo din teh cool of the afternoon shade - and its pretty dry. Managed a wedged rest on the lip of the overhang and the crack above is good.
with Neville Contractor
Feels really goo din teh cool of the afternoon shade - and its pretty dry. Managed a wedged rest on the lip of the overhang and the crack above is good.
with Neville Contractor
Steve Crowe 30 Apr, 1999 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
kylo-342 ?Jul, 1997 2nd
with David Pickford
with David Pickford
sadams 31 Mar, 1997 Lead
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
andybirtwistle 13 Aug, 1996 2nd
with Steve Brewis
with Steve Brewis
Hidden 27 Aug, 1994 Lead
Hidden ??, 1994 2nd
whispering nic ?Aug, 1993 2nd
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12 Apr, 1993 2nd Dad took huge whipper from above the roof to 1m from ground upsidedown. Crikey!
Dad took huge whipper from above the roof to 1m from ground upsidedown. Crikey!
Dave Musgrove 12 Apr, 1993 Lead dnf Took a big fall off this one. Just missed the deck when two bits of gear ripped. It was only graded E3 5c at the time but felt tough at that grade.
with Pete Finklaire, Dave Musgrove Jnr
Took a big fall off this one. Just missed the deck when two bits of gear ripped. It was only graded E3 5c at the time but felt tough at that grade.
with Pete Finklaire, Dave Musgrove Jnr
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
Nick Biven ??, 1990 2nd O/S Awesome route - typical PLJ route... start pumped and stay pumped :-)
with Rich Whitwell
Awesome route - typical PLJ route... start pumped and stay pumped :-)
with Rich Whitwell
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead
Mike Owen 29 Aug, 1988 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 26 Feb, 1988 Lead dog
Steve Lewis 9 Aug, 1987 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
with Alun Richardson
keefe 7 Sep, 1986 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
AlexRenshaw ?Aug, 1986 2nd
with Sean Myles
with Sean Myles
UKB Shark 3 Apr, 1986 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
with Geraldine Taylor
Hidden ??, 1986 2nd
Mark Kemball 20 Jul, 1983 Lead
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 9 Apr, 1983 2nd
Hidden 25 May, 1982 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set