27m.

Rockfax Description
The superb face to the right is taken pretty much in its
centre. Although it has some old fixed gear, this can all be backed up although it may be worth E4 when the peg eventually goes. Climb the wall to a break and a thread, then climb up and slightly right (two old pegs) to reach easier ground. Continue leftwards, to the loose finish of Whispering Wind. © Rockfax

FA. A Richardson May/1986

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes, Theo's Pembroke ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
NuclearNev 1 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A real gem of a route; worth at least 1 more star and very suitable of technical but unfit people ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A real gem of a route; worth at least 1 more star and very suitable of technical but unfit people ;)
duncan b 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Even if the pegs pulled, I don't think you would come to any harm with the bomber thread and other good gear a foot below your feet when you embark on the very short crux sequence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Even if the pegs pulled, I don't think you would come to any harm with the bomber thread and other good gear a foot below your feet when you embark on the very short crux sequence.
John Alcock 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The crucial tat was replaced in 2007. The pegs are the original ones so it's unlikely they'd hold much of a fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crucial tat was replaced in 2007. The pegs are the original ones so it's unlikely they'd hold much of a fall.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 27 May 2nd
tjmillen 27 May Lead
with Dave
with Dave
The Grist 26 May Lead rpt Really nice route. Reachy which suits me.
Really nice route. Reachy which suits me.
PaulTanton 26 May 2nd rpt
Hidden 6 May Lead O/S
Si Witcher 5 May 2nd
with Aggie T
with Aggie T
Hidden 4 May 2nd
Mike_Hayes 4 May Lead rpt
with Cat
with Cat
julesmckim 26 Apr Lead O/S Excellent rock and climbing. Pretty good gear. Tried to ignore the age of the tat and the state of the pegs. Good technical sequence and search for holds around the crux.
with Alex Renshaw
Excellent rock and climbing. Pretty good gear. Tried to ignore the age of the tat and the state of the pegs. Good technical sequence and search for holds around the crux.
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 26 Apr 2nd
Guy Arnold 21 Apr Lead O/S Great but pegs look awful
Great but pegs look awful
WB 21 Apr Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 21 Apr 2nd
with WB
with WB
James Oswald ?Apr 2nd
Hidden 24 Mar 2nd rpt
Wendy Watthews 9 Dec, 2018 2nd O/S
with beni
with beni
beni 9 Dec, 2018 Lead
Sam Brown 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Justin
with Justin
Kev Little 5 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
aiyer 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S One hard tricky section getting to the pegs and the rest is fine....
One hard tricky section getting to the pegs and the rest is fine....
Wil Treasure 30 Jul, 2018 Lead G/U Tried this 10 years ago, fell off after the pegs. Felt very steady now.
Tried this 10 years ago, fell off after the pegs. Felt very steady now.
Martin Bagshaw 30 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
debsb 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Hidden 7 May, 2018 2nd
pearson9596 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mel
with Mel
brices 20 Apr, 2018 2nd rpt
Llinos C 20 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with brices
with brices
pie_eater_pete 4 Apr, 2018 -
bwestwood 4 Apr, 2018 2nd
treesrockice 31 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Ace. Pegs suspect.
Ace. Pegs suspect.
Mowglee 31 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S
Hugh Simons 10 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Pegs are a bit rotten looking, thankfully the hardest move is standing up to clip them! A little easier to read after that. Good route!
Pegs are a bit rotten looking, thankfully the hardest move is standing up to clip them! A little easier to read after that. Good route!
Euan Todd 10 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S Yassss, so psyched for Hugh on this one. 5c mini-crux lower down into a rest and gear, then definite 6a move to get stood up in the ledge. He figured it out, and helpfully chalked the holds so I knew what to do on second. There's enough holds on there, but only just!
Yassss, so psyched for Hugh on this one. 5c mini-crux lower down into a rest and gear, then definite 6a move to get stood up in the ledge. He figured it out, and helpfully chalked the holds so I knew what to do on second. There's enough holds on there, but only just!
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 2nd
bryan61 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S very happy with this one
very happy with this one
jgordon75 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Mark Harris
with Mark Harris
pete johnson ?Aug, 2017 Lead
with Bob Allen
with Bob Allen
Hidden 31 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2017 2nd dog
Tim M ??, 2017 -
Mike W 27 Aug, 2016 TR O/S
Chriswallis2 26 Aug, 2016 TR O/S
with Mike W
with Mike W
Luke Brooks 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with KB83
with KB83
Hidden 15 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
duncana 13 Aug, 2016 2nd dog Found it hard and grabbed sling on pegs. But excellent technical face climbing on small features on super rock
with Pippa Archer
Found it hard and grabbed sling on pegs. But excellent technical face climbing on small features on super rock
with Pippa Archer
Ed Babs 8 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Alex says - disappointingly easy. 😀
with AlexD
Alex says - disappointingly easy. 😀
with AlexD
AlexD 8 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S All over by the time the pegs are reached. Backed up anyway with large micro-wire.
with Ed Babs
All over by the time the pegs are reached. Backed up anyway with large micro-wire.
with Ed Babs
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Wendy 6 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Sash.C
with Sash.C
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
The Grist 4 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
rurp 2 Jun, 2016 - One very tricky step up. But off vertical and amazing friction
One very tricky step up. But off vertical and amazing friction
Hidden 31 May, 2016 2nd
Hidden 31 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 29 May, 2016 2nd
with Tim
with Tim
tim.fairhall 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Richard
with Richard
phil64 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S bit hot and greasy
with Andy Bowman
bit hot and greasy
with Andy Bowman
belay bunny turned bad 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Iain M
with Iain M
brices 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S Nice and technical
Nice and technical
Hidden 15 May, 2016 Lead
Hidden 15 May, 2016 2nd
Stefan_Morris 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
markalmack 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 7 May, 2016 2nd rpt
adam 24 31 Aug, 2015 Lead Great route. Fell by snapping a hold hanging at the crux when i hung around too long. Not too bad if you commit.
Great route. Fell by snapping a hold hanging at the crux when i hung around too long. Not too bad if you commit.
rajeshwarbisht 31 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 31 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S The pegs are very dodgy, they could hold, maybe. First 6a!
The pegs are very dodgy, they could hold, maybe. First 6a!
chrisallan 31 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
James Marshall 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Great, so thin at the crux - you just have to believe ! Couldn't back up the pegs till quite a bit later.
with Pete Shepherd
Great, so thin at the crux - you just have to believe ! Couldn't back up the pegs till quite a bit later.
with Pete Shepherd
richsmithinbristol 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Snell Stock 2015. With Tom Rainbow
Snell Stock 2015. With Tom Rainbow
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 6 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
tim newton 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 6 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
NuclearNev ??, 2015 -
HAJ Francis ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
redjerry 9 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ed Morris
with Ed Morris
simon kimber 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2014 Lead β
Duncan Campbell 17 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S A really fun little route, a couple of thin technical moves, but not much harder than First Blood in my opinion.
with Wft
A really fun little route, a couple of thin technical moves, but not much harder than First Blood in my opinion.
with Wft
w.pettet-smith ?Apr, 2014 2nd Safe enough even considering state of pegs. Crozzley fun.
Safe enough even considering state of pegs. Crozzley fun.
cooperman 20 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S crappy pegs but bomber gear below
with Graham Iles
crappy pegs but bomber gear below
with Graham Iles
James Oswald 6 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Weird rock, like climbing slopey gritstone. Great moves up from the first break. Weird climbing, had to convince myself that the pegs would hold, I've no idea! Underrated, worth 3*s for it's uniqueness. Ace technical climbing.
Weird rock, like climbing slopey gritstone. Great moves up from the first break. Weird climbing, had to convince myself that the pegs would hold, I've no idea! Underrated, worth 3*s for it's uniqueness. Ace technical climbing.
pipof747 30 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2013 2nd O/S
soph 4 May, 2013 2nd
with Alex Hughes
with Alex Hughes
Mike_Hayes 4 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Fran S8 4 May, 2013 Lead
Thunderthighsontheloose 4 May, 2013 2nd O/S
nicolat ?May, 2013 2nd
with James Mitchell
with James Mitchell
gregoritos 11 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
ksjs 5 Sep, 2012 2nd rpt
with owen
with owen
Hidden 12 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 11 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
with Si 2
with Si 2
dswansonlow 10 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 10 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Oddjob 6 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Markus
with Markus
cem 27 Aug, 2011 2nd dog Stupidly slipped off after having completed the crux sequence
Stupidly slipped off after having completed the crux sequence
drcorbasisgod 27 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with cem
with cem
Hidden 10 Aug, 2011 2nd
feilx 6 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
dannyboy83 5 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 5 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Safe and steady, but involving. Much more fun than expected - really recommend it! Awesome route, and enjoyably unusual for the area. Pegs looked solid to me, and the tat was fairly fresh. Looked tough to back them up though (microcam?)- would definitely be E4 without.
Safe and steady, but involving. Much more fun than expected - really recommend it! Awesome route, and enjoyably unusual for the area. Pegs looked solid to me, and the tat was fairly fresh. Looked tough to back them up though (microcam?)- would definitely be E4 without.
Hidden 15 May, 2011 Lead β
duncan 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Pippa 22 Apr, 2011 Lead
Ed morris 9 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Brilliant non-commiting climbing
Brilliant non-commiting climbing
ksjs 2 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S class all the way, almost slate-like. could be slightly intense sans pegs (one looks good and other less so, these were tied off and equalised with new looking tat at time of ascent). by the way these cant be backed up (or at least i didnt see any way to do so) until you are well past them. also, RF description vague here (no change there then): trend right after the pegs to attain a tiny flake / ear of rock and a standing position beneath the grotty right hand corner and more gear.
with phil
class all the way, almost slate-like. could be slightly intense sans pegs (one looks good and other less so, these were tied off and equalised with new looking tat at time of ascent). by the way these cant be backed up (or at least i didnt see any way to do so) until you are well past them. also, RF description vague here (no change there then): trend right after the pegs to attain a tiny flake / ear of rock and a standing position beneath the grotty right hand corner and more gear.
with phil
Rob Pitt 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
with Owen Davies
NeilGriffiths 29 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Dave Garry, frost
with Dave Garry, frost
LoopyLou 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S What a beauty. Not an obvious striking line like other routes here, but it magically reveals itself in all its subtlety as you embark on it and commit to higher moves/ the crux sequence. Its basically a 20m technical boulder problem on thin holds requiring strong fingers and steady feet. And divinely protectable/ safe, a rare treat at this grade. Had me smiling ear to ear; my style of route. Wish there was more of this in pembroke.
with Helen Lear / Pinnacle meet
What a beauty. Not an obvious striking line like other routes here, but it magically reveals itself in all its subtlety as you embark on it and commit to higher moves/ the crux sequence. Its basically a 20m technical boulder problem on thin holds requiring strong fingers and steady feet. And divinely protectable/ safe, a rare treat at this grade. Had me smiling ear to ear; my style of route. Wish there was more of this in pembroke.
with Helen Lear / Pinnacle meet
frost 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with N Griffiths, D Garry
with N Griffiths, D Garry
Chubbard 8 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Ray
with Ray
Hidden 7 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
mattyork2 13 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
mux ??, 2010 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 Lead
steveb2006 15 Jun, 2009 Lead Not too sustained - led 10 year ago
with Roland Smith
Not too sustained - led 10 year ago
with Roland Smith
datoon 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with K
with K
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
nicolat ?Jul, 2008 Lead rpt
Hidden 6 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??, 2007 Lead
Wil Treasure ??, 2007 Lead dog
Pete Wimbush ?Aug, 2006 Lead rpt
with Steve McCann
with Steve McCann
benjhans ?May, 2006 2nd dog Struggled on my first E3
Struggled on my first E3
bfreeman ?Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
DanH9883 ?Jan, 2006 2nd
Hidden ??, 2006 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Dan Savory 17 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Billg ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Mar, 2004 Lead O/S
steveb2006 31 Aug, 2003 Lead Harder than Onion Eaters
with Paul E
Harder than Onion Eaters
with Paul E
Hidden ?Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 12 May, 2002 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Rock Fairy ?Jul, 2001 2nd My 1st E3 6a Second :-)
with david
My 1st E3 6a Second :-)
with david
Hidden 30 May, 2001 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 16 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
with Dave Taylor
Mathias Willerup 29 Aug, 1998 Lead β My first E36a
with Tim Wilkinson
My first E36a
with Tim Wilkinson
Rich Kirby 3 Jun, 1998 2nd
Pete Wimbush ?Jun, 1998 Lead rpt
with Kev Little
with Kev Little
Pete Wimbush ?Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with Dave Langrish
with Dave Langrish
sadams 22 Jun, 1997 2nd
with Team Midlands
with Team Midlands
Rich Kirby ?Jun, 1997 2nd
Hidden ?Jun, 1997 Lead
michael burrows 2 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S
with andy boorman
with andy boorman
Neil McA 6 May, 1996 Lead O/S
with Pete Wimbush
with Pete Wimbush
Mike Owen 26 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 21 Apr, 1987 Lead
Steve Lewis 19 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead O/S
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set