Rockfax Description
One of the best pitches on the crag featuring sustained and technical climbing with generally excellent protection. Begin 4m right of the ground-level tree. Move up to a break and go left to a little corner with a peg above. From the peg move delicately left around the shallow rib to a slab beneath a slim crack. Follow the lovely crack past pegs to a horizontal break. Move left to a tree and climb the crack above to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 29.5.76 29/May/1976

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Good climbing but spoiled by the abundance of pegs and bolts. Only placed 4 nuts.

with Roisin
Adam Long 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Enjoyable warm-up, very steady for E3. Not 6a.

with Ben Bransby
frost ?/May/17 2nd
with Pete H
Daz8477 24/Mar/17 2nd O/S
Phil Davidson 24/Mar/17 Lead
Mike W 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with chris
The Grist 18/Jun/16 Lead dog

Dissappointing effort. Found the crack hard. Got tired and sat on a couple of pegs. Take loads of quick draws as there are loads of pegs to clip. Very wandering line. Will go back to try to lead clean. Good route despite my failure.

with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 18/Jun/16 2nd

Best route of day, varied, good line. The crack was tough but good.

with Mark Grist
Sophie Nunn 23/May/16 Lead O/S
with Neil W
spalice 16/May/16 2nd β
FreddieSmith 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Dec/13 2nd
Adam Booth 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Mountain clag and spitting with rain - made the top licheny slab interesting!

Ed Booth 01/Dec/13 2nd O/S

Cool route. Hot aches, numb fingers and drizzly weather, not ideal.

Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Speeddemonsi 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
eduardo 03/Aug/13 2nd dog

Rested at a couple of sections, technical rather than very physical.

with Misha
Misha 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A great route, varied and sustained, with generally good gear. The initial traverse left was tricky and mildly bold. Hung around for ages below the last hard sequence on the crack section as couldn't see an easy way of doing it. It was a half rest at best so was slowly getting more pumped... In the end decided to go for it and with a crafty knee bar it turned out to be fine. A couple of hard sequences after the crack maintained the interest. I'd say solid E3 but bottom end 6a.

with Ed
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Niall Grimes
metal arms 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
luke384 20/Jun/12 2nd dog
spidey 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

good pitch, tons of fixed gear.

with luke clarke
JBO 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Didn't really think it deserved ***, or 6a, but it's a decent route.

switch 21/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Chris
Billg 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

dissapointing route - wandering with unbalanced climbing

with Will Calvert
Luke Brooks ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with John Orr
phil64 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Graham C 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/09 -
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Andy S
NeilGriffiths 20/Sep/08 -

sat on gear at crack. Boo.

with Dave Garry
Brown 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
mux ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Chubbard 17/Jun/07 Lead dog
with C Godfrey
lost.arrow 29/Apr/07 -
feilx 04/Nov/06 2nd
dannyboy83 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/05 2nd
with Hugh
pete johnson 06/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Bob Allen
Roget 09/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with jon
Roget 19/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
Steve Crowe 14/Aug/93 Lead O/S

E2 5c in my guidebook

with KM
Nick Biven 07/Jul/92 Lead
with John Pollard
Hidden 14/Jul/91 2nd
wynaptomos ?/May/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/86 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/85 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Neil McA 23/Oct/83 2nd O/S
with Andy Scrase
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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