The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
A good sport route up the slender buttress. Climb directly up the grey nose then make a long stretch to gain the traverse line of Swlabr Link. Make some thin moves to a rounded break and then gain better holds in a scoop. Pull up and climb leftwards into a second scoop. A final hard move rightwards gains good flake-holds that lead to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Now fully bolted. Originally E6 6b
F.A. John Codling, John Moulding at E6 6b 05/May/1984.
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Grade: 7b ***
(Dinbren Crags)