Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
An immaculate pitch and one of the best of its grade in the area with technically varied and absorbing climbing. The difficulty gently escalates culminating in a challenging finale. Climb easily to a peg then make a tricky move up and right to good holds by a small sapling. Continue up a slight groove following cracks to a second peg. Move left and step up to a good resting ledge beneath an overhang. Undercut rightwards beneath the overhang then pull around the slight arete to reach another good rest beside a small niche. Pull up and leftwards on small holds to reach bigger holds beneath a peg. Above the peg is a good jug and reaching it is hard. Once gained, pull up slightly leftwards - still difficult - to a small sapling, then finish easily to the right. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 11.6.73 11/Jun/1973.
Ticklists
Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes , Eglwseg E2's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 23 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Sapling after the crux looks to have been chopped a while ago, is very obvious where to go once at the jug. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sapling after the crux looks to have been chopped a while ago, is very obvious where to go once at the jug. |
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| Mike Raine | 24 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: A fine unpolished limestone climb, very steady, E1 5b | βeta? | |
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βeta: A fine unpolished limestone climb, very steady, E1 5b |
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| jim jones | 28 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Yep superb - best E2 on Clwyd Limestone. Worth its 3 stars. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yep superb - best E2 on Clwyd Limestone. Worth its 3 stars. |
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| Paul Evans | 19 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A wonderful route, about right for the grade, continuously interesting and rewarding. I thought the finishing move off the good jug for the sapling was harder than getting the jug. For those using the old 1993 Gary Dickinson guide, take note of the description above re the moves after the second peg. The direct way described in the Dickinson guide is much harder! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A wonderful route, about right for the grade, continuously interesting and rewarding. I thought the finishing move off the good jug for the sapling was harder than getting the jug. For those using the old 1993 Gary Dickinson guide, take note of the description above re the moves after the second peg. The direct way described in the Dickinson guide is much harder! |
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| Tyler | 9 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure any route in Clwyd could be described as "over rated" given how over looked the place is, but this is definitely worht any plaudits. Should really have a reachy symbol though I suspect even tallies have to slap for it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure any route in Clwyd could be described as "over rated" given how over looked the place is, but this is definitely worht any plaudits. Should really have a reachy symbol though I suspect even tallies have to slap for it. |
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| neilh | 15 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Overrated and quite easy for its grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Overrated and quite easy for its grade. |
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Logged Ascents
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Craig Arthur Girdle
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Arthur)