Rockfax Description
An immaculate pitch and one of the best of its grade in the area with technically varied and absorbing climbing. The difficulty gently escalates culminating in a challenging finale. Climb easily to a peg then make a tricky move up and right to good holds by a small sapling. Continue up a slight groove following cracks to a second peg. Move left and step up to a good resting ledge beneath an overhang. Undercut rightwards beneath the overhang then pull around the slight arete to reach another good rest beside a small niche. Pull up and leftwards on small holds to reach bigger holds beneath a peg. Above the peg is a good jug and reaching it is hard. Once gained, pull up slightly leftwards - still difficult - to a small sapling, then finish easily to the right. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 11.6.73 11/Jun/1973

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, Suggested routes stripes should do....

Bulls Crack 26/Aug/17 2nd rpt

Good but not quite as good as I rembered it from 25 years ago!

with SP
james.slater 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Gabe Oliver 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this route for ages and actually found it a bit underwhelming. Really soft for E2, even the top move isn't hard (I'm 5'10) and theres plenty of gear but I guess it's a bit fiddly

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 02/Jul/17 2nd
with Roisin
PaulTanton 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Good route but not sure if it's the best I ever done. I thought it was quite easy. Top move is like Beast from The undergrowth in Pembroke

with Liz
Dizz 01/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Very good - hard if you are not tall! Had to pull a ridiculous move! :)

with Paul Tanton
pauldrew 17/Jun/17 2nd
with Sam Jones, Mike Jones, BarbsMurray
BarbsMurray 17/Jun/17 2nd
with Paul
frost 14/Jun/17 2nd
Dave Almond 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Adam Long 27/May/17 Lead O/S

1st half a bit shattered, great higher up where direct line fun but a touch forced

with Ben Bransby
Daz8477 24/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Really good varied climbing, a bit bold in places, exciting finish.

Phil Davidson 24/Mar/17 2nd
stemill 24/Sep/16 Lead
with Andy OB
Ramon Marin 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great route

with dave pickford
pauldrew 15/Aug/16 Lead
with Anjali Pande
Hidden 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Mike W 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with chris
manwithacam 18/Jun/16 Lead

Good climb, but unwittingly missed crux by going by the easiest line! Still giving myself the tick...

with Mark Grist
Sophie Nunn 23/May/16 2nd O/S
with Neil W
FreddieSmith 06/Aug/15 2nd rpt
spalice 06/Aug/15 Lead rpt


FreddieSmith 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
spalice 04/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Amazing climb! Definitely need to get back and lead it!

pauldrew 24/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Coel Hellier 12/Oct/14 Lead
Brannock 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good route, some bold bits leading up to the peg below the jug, which has a great move to get to it.

Rob Grant 13/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

a fantastic route which is superb and not as soft as i was expecting. Loved the whole route!

with Martin Wing
ripper 29/Jun/14 Lead

A fantastic route which is superb and not as hard as I was expecting! Not strictly on-sight, as I'd watched the previous poster and partner on the bottom half, and seen where some of their gear placements where, also got some shouted instructions about where the line went from below, but really who cares? not me, it was just a lovely climb :)

with Matt Chap
pauldrew 18/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 16/Aug/13 2nd

A great route which seemed a bit more solid than the others we did.

with Si
Speeddemonsi 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chriswood 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
eduardo 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Misha looked comfortable all the way. I was pleased to get it clean.

with Misha
Misha 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A great route with good climbing throughout but not very hard for E2. Technical and slightly bold in places but not particularly physical. After going up and right from the massive undercuts, not sure I went right as far as the guide book suggests but the line I followed was logical. A nice technical sequence to gain a mini jug, followed by enjoyable face clibing and another great technical sequence to gain THE jug - which wasn't as tricky as the guide book made it out to be. Unless I'm having a mind blank, there is no peg below the sequence to the mega jug but it's well protected with wires anyway. A really windy day, got a bit cold while Ed was trying to retrieve the last nut before the mega jug, in the end he gave up so I ended up abbing down for it and managed to get it out :-)

with Ed
Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/Jun/13 2nd
with Niall Grimes
switch 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Leanne
Hidden 07/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Abi Chard 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ian
Ally Smith 11/Aug/12 2nd
Chriswallis2 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Calder 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

First E2 and what a route. Had a moment after traversing round the roof, but pulled it together for the grand finale. Cheers Diggler.

with Mark
Diggler 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Calders first E2 :-) well done

with Calder
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
luke384 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
marky 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Great route to get back into the trad!

with Sharon
Tomprusk 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Top move is escapable but it is a superb climb. horrifically windy today mind!

with Rosie, Nick
Nick Nitro 03/Oct/11 2nd
Mike_Hayes 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 09/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S

A cool trip with technical non pumpy climbing. Went wrong way at the top mind, out left into a flake instead of up from the peg. Tricky all the same. There's a photo of the top move in the guide somewere I later discovered.

with gareth
pauldrew 26/Jun/11 Lead
with Brighid Rowe
Rob Pitt 19/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely brilliant

zero six ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route

Paul ablitt 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
barni 18/Oct/10 2nd O/S
DomWatson 17/Oct/10 2nd dog
Billg 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Justin T 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Owen W-G 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really involving experience. The move up to the final peg in particular quite committing, then well-pro crux to the jug with a massive stretch. As 3 star as routes get. 2 and half hour round trip from car park just about doable if you send your partner to sprint back just before gates are locked at 5pm.

with Matt B
Matt77 21/Aug/10 2nd
with Owen
Ed Booth 16/Aug/10 2nd rpt
phil64 ?/Aug/10 2nd
phil64 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
grady ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
sadams 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
The Grist ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Allsop
Hidden 20/Aug/09 -
Ed Booth 16/Aug/09 Lead
Adam Booth 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Love this climb so much. Found the crux more reachy than last year!

Hidden 12/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Ally Smith 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/09 2nd
lee richards 28/May/09 Lead

took sixtyfive minutes one fall off the crux and garry gibson taking the piss but got there in the end. only to have my mate rich hopton(billy big guns) trot up it in fine******.

richardhopton 28/May/09 2nd
kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Andy S
cem 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Roel
metal arms 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
anguskille 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S

awesome route, slightly polished and wanders about a bit, but nice mixed styles of climbing

fennerz 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Abosolutely fantastic! Best E2 i've done, havn't done that many but it's still utterly awesome!

mux 22/Aug/08 Lead
NeilGriffiths 22/Aug/08 -
with Dave Garry
lee richards 26/Jul/08 2nd
Dan 85 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
pauldrew 10/May/08 Lead
with Kevin Sales
pauldrew 09/Sep/07 Lead
with Stewart Leitch
ksjs 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S

not as brilliant as made out or maybe i just wasnt into it. got mired down in gear selection towards top. a good route with varied climbing and an interesting finish

with paul
pete johnson 05/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead
Chubbard 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with C Godfrey
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
feilx 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 04/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/06 Lead O/S
pete johnson 14/Jun/06 -
with Kevin Sales, Paul Drew
pauldrew 14/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Lee Proctor 29/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Paul Bolger
spidey 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
nige ?/Jul/05 Lead
with mark hounslea
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Brown ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
pete johnson 19/Sep/04 -
with Kevin Sales
nicholas Barrowclough 24/Jul/04 Lead
lost.arrow 13/Sep/03 -
phardman 30/Aug/03 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 27/Jul/03 -
Julian Wedd ??/2001 Lead
with A. Howarth
Shaved Atom ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Roget 23/Jul/94 Lead rpt
with jon
Strong Steve 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
pete johnson 24/Aug/93 2nd
with Brian Wilderspin
pete johnson 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Allen
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/86 AltLd
Hidden 11/Sep/85 Lead
Neil McA 23/Oct/83 Lead O/S
with Andy Scrase
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