The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
Immaculate and extremely sustained climbing that is also fairly run out. Start below a yellow lichen-covered bulge at 8m. Make some committing moves up and then left along a slim ramp to a bolt, and make a long reach to a good hold at the base of a small groove. Move up onto the good hold and pull left to the arete. Climb the arete on its right-hand side, with some trepidation, to meet Digitron at a horizontal break. Step right (peg) and make hard moves up a flake to a bolt. Finish by moving leftwards into Digitron. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1.6.91 01/Jun/1991.
Ultimate E5 ticklist , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Pandy Quarry)