Rockfax Description
The best route of this grade in the valley and well worth the walk up. Bridge up the superbly-positioned groove with the feeling that the entire world is beneath your feet. There is a thread belay at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, P.Stott 19.8.80 19/Aug/1980

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, UK Classic Corners.

james.slater 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
tomos.jenkins 27/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Clegm 11/Jun/17 2nd
ollyrowe 11/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Mike, Tim
TimMorgan 11/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Mike, Olly
senior rita 11/May/17 2nd O/S

excellent dodgy climb well worth its 3 stars but being held up by a smallish rock. carefully does it the whole place is ready to fall apart.

andy007 11/May/17 Lead O/S

Seriously fragile climb that is definitely going to fall down sometime (most of the bottom section is not actually attached to the rock face)... but definitely the best VS in the valley. 3 star jenga tower sums it up perfectly

with Chris
andy007 11/May/17 2nd rpt

lowered off to haul bags up and then climbed again -Easiest descent is to turn right after topping out and walk along the grassy slope between the upper and lower crags until reaching the stream in the gully at the far end.

with Chris
Andrew Sandercock 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

First trad route of the year, felt ropey!

with Liz
Garston 08/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Wet in the morning but sun came out, cracking climb but really looks like a small block is holding the whole bloody thing up. Bit sloppy in places and tough lead but great fun. Walk off to the left is bad and had to use rope to abseil down.

with JulesKent, Roger
Greg Cunningham 27/Aug/16 2nd

brilliant route

with Donie
balandino_dd 16/Aug/16 2nd
with Joe
fuzzysheep01 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/16 2nd
Helen Boothman 30/Jul/16 Lead
with Ben
benjiwoo 18/Jun/16 2nd
with Jamie
Joedt 28/May/16 2nd
JonathanJones 27/May/16 2nd O/S
with JoeT, Al Breen
TimMorgan 07/May/16 2nd O/S
with Rich, Bram
Stanners 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Giles
Darron ??/2016 -
g1m147 27/Sep/15 2nd
with Mick.
DubyaJamesDubya 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Joe led

with Joe Harris
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
FreddieSmith 03/Aug/15 2nd β
with Sam Milner
Sam2257 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
r.greaves 24/May/15 Lead

this is not a 3 star classic, loose and had a fall on very poor gear due to lowering as blocks were loose.

with Ian smith
D.botts87 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Roger Cruse 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Kris
matthew_ellis24 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Definitely beyond my skills to lead this route at this stage, but top roped it ok.

martin c 11/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Bridging is the key. No dramas this time.

with Katy W
pauldrew 09/Jul/14 2nd
with Ali Hutton
Pkrynicki1984 ?/Jul/14 2nd
danwilliams99 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with James Oakes
DanielGyi 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Dan Williams, James Oakes, Dom Pearce
James Oakes 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dom Pearce, Dan Williams, Dan Gyi
Nick Russell 04/May/14 Lead O/S

The column of tottering blocks on the left is a pretty cool feature - I put a sling round it for a laugh... Good, thoughtful bridging above with gear wherever you want it. Combined with the feeling of exposure, definitely worth the visit. I think fair for the grade, though might feel a bit out there for a new VS leader.

with Emily
Dale Berry 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Very good indeed. I didn't have a problem with the loose looking start. Thoughtful bridging with the odd strenuos pull.

with Claire Berry
Hidden 12/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/13 2nd β
MDowson 27/Aug/13 Lead
with sam webb
harold walmsley 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Rather blocky at the bottom

with Colin Struthers
andy tetsill 26/May/13 2nd
with Shrewsbury MC
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
vinspin 05/May/13 Lead O/S

the dodgy looking rock at the start can be avoided followed by excellent climbing to the top just be careful topping out more loss rock

Leo Woodhead 05/May/13 2nd
with vinspin
neilh ??/2013 -
gazj1986 ??/2013 2nd

3 star

SamHallam ??/2013 Lead
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mdg skidmore 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

did seconf first but due to not being able to ab off and retreive gear i had to second, lead clean after and would of lead without seconding no prob's. honest

with joe penfold
scylla750 20/Jul/12 2nd
with spillers
Spillers 20/Jul/12 Lead
with Chris Burwood
nacmacfeeglexx08 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Landy_Dom 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lead clean on sight. Scary loose looking blocky tower on left, better above. Bridged virtually all the way up. Plenty of good gear, apart from run out but easy exit to the left.

Roger Cruse 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Mark & Helen
TCarrick 29/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
The Dangler 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S

lower section has some very sketchy looking loose rock which is best avoided!upper section is fantastic climbing in a great position!

ripper 11/Sep/11 2nd

scary - looked like a bit of a jenga tower...

ads 04/Sep/11 Lead
Mattlamb90 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Tibbett 22/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
RCrockford 04/Jun/11 2nd
Mattlamb90 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Worth the stars, great route!

with Luke
luke384 04/Jun/11 2nd
with matty
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead O/S
Takacs 10/May/11 2nd

Frightening in that situation but good climbing

with Laurence Everitt
mksmith35 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
MarkRoe 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Worth its 3 stars. 'Jenga' does sound about right though, be careful what you weight.

mcglenr25 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
JohnBear 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Smithy
The Ivanator 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Ruddy brilliant! Some fragile looking jugs near the start ...don't pull too hard!

with Sean
luke384 04/Jan/11 Lead β
with matt lamb
mattfarr ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Liam, Paul
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ali H 22/Jun/10 Lead

Excellent route!

with Willson
stewart roberts 16/Jun/10 Lead
Gwyneth 16/Jun/10 2nd
with Stewart
NeilGriffiths 15/May/10 -
with Adam
A Crook 15/May/10 2nd
Gwyneth 27/Apr/10 2nd
with Stewart
stewart roberts 27/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Pete Horn 27/Sep/09 Lead
with Charles
Tomprusk 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Dad
cem 27/Sep/09 2nd
with Pete Horn
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Ellen Cobby 26/Sep/09 2nd
Adam Booth 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

3 star Jenga tower! Nice route.

with Roel, Ellen Cobby
mark20 14/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Sam1991 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Quality route, really good climbing all the way, with plenty of good gear, and lots of bridged rests. Holds are never really jugs till the top, but its never that hard.

with Mark
csalvage 09/Jul/09 2nd
with Bryan
stevemcg 28/May/09 Lead
with John
willson 20/Apr/09 Lead

After a second time, absorbing climbing, but if not for the exposure would be HS. Stacks of gear.

with ben
Hidden 20/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S
mattish2000 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Nick and Nick H
willson 19/Mar/09 Lead

Lovely, the polish makes the hand jams comfy

with ben
richardhopton 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Rich35 ??/2009 2nd
smallerrich 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Finally got the 50mph winds promised when I was about half way up

with Will Nicholls
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
dts 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/08 2nd
porridgefan 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth Borthwick
gareth scott borthwick 08/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Ed Booth ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
lee richards ??/2008 Lead O/S
with robbo84
EAYL 05/Oct/07 Lead
with Andy
OffshoreAndy 05/Oct/07 2nd
thomasholyoak 15/Apr/07 Lead
LiLaMont 31/Mar/07 2nd β
tobydunford 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
g1m147 23/Jul/06 Lead
with Paul Hutton
csalvage 16/Jul/06 Lead
with Bryan
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/06 Lead
thomasholyoak ?/Jun/06 2nd
with DS
shoulders 28/May/06 Lead
with ben, mart, andy sharp
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead
unfit 17/Jul/02 Lead
with ruth
Rob Davies ?/May/02 2nd

Pulled off big block

Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/00 2nd
caradoc 13/May/00 Lead O/S
with SteveR
Ratfeeder 12/Sep/99 2nd O/S
with Phil
lost.arrow 19/Jun/99 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Roget 22/Aug/98 2nd O/S
frost ?/Jun/98 2nd
with M Pritchard
Hidden 22/Aug/97 Lead O/S
colin milton 14/May/96 Lead
with eric milton
Shaved Atom ??/1996 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/95 -
smudge 09/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Rob
pete johnson 26/Jun/93 2nd
with Andy Blakely
Hidden 23/May/93 Lead
Mick King 28/Apr/91 -
with Mark Lavender, Pete Hankinson
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
michael burrows 15/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with dave hatcher
Nigel Bond 30/Jun/87 Lead
with Martin Cash
Brian Wilderspin 24/Jul/85 -
with Hugh Williams
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Solo
Nigel Bond 11/Aug/83 Lead
with Stuart Cathcart
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Votes cast 27
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