UKC

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The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.

24m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A nicely varied route with two good pitches: the first pitch is a little bold and warrants E3; the second involves well-protected technical bridging at E2 but probably has a harder move. The upper pitch can be done on its own by approaching along the mid-height terrace.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the bold, slabby wall to the overhang. Traverse leftwards, using undercuts, to a slight rib beneath a crack (hidden peg on the left). Pull up into the crack and follow this to the terrace above. Belay at the bottom of the corner/groove. The crack can also be reached direct - Scratting Hen Start, at bold E4 6a.
2) 5c, 11m. Layback and bridge the immaculate groove to a small overhang and pull through this on its left-hand side to the top. The right-hand finish past the overhang is substantially easier at HVS 5a and worth doing on its own. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 22.8.80 22/Aug/1980.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Frank the Husky 31 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: "a little bold" seems like a right understatement to me! i couldn't get anything in until i was below the bulges. very bold might be better! the top pitch is excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "a little bold" seems like a right understatement to me! i couldn't get anything in until i was below the bulges. very bold might be better! the top pitch is excellent.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Solo in Soho

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Pinfold Area)

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