The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Rockfax Description
A nicely varied route with two good pitches: the first pitch is a little bold and warrants E3; the second involves well-protected technical bridging at E2 but probably has a harder move. The upper pitch can be done on its own by approaching along the mid-height terrace.1) 5c, 18m. Climb the bold, slabby wall to the overhang. Traverse leftwards, using undercuts, to a slight rib beneath a crack (hidden peg on the left). Pull up into the crack and follow this to the terrace above. Belay at the bottom of the corner/groove. The crack can also be reached direct - Scratting Hen Start, at bold E4 6a.2) 5c, 11m. Layback and bridge the immaculate groove to a small overhang and pull through this on its left-hand side to the top. The right-hand finish past the overhang is substantially easier at HVS 5a and worth doing on its own. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 22.8.80 22/Aug/1980.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Frank the Husky | 31 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: "a little bold" seems like a right understatement to me! i couldn't get anything in until i was below the bulges. very bold might be better! the top pitch is excellent. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: "a little bold" seems like a right understatement to me! i couldn't get anything in until i was below the bulges. very bold might be better! the top pitch is excellent. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Pinfold Area)